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cjstaci

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About cjstaci

  • Birthday 08/10/1959

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 conv,429cj, 4spd 3.5 N-case, it's not an original but the running gear is correct.

    69 Fastback, it's a project. going to be a built BBF with a Lenco 5spd. Looking to get the car in the mid 8 to low 9 sec and still be streetable. I just hope I get it done before I am too old to drive it. lol.

Location

  • Location
    Seattle
  • Region
    Northwest

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Female

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  1. 429 CJ, 460 crank, Voodoo cam, pro systems carb, custom headers, close ratio big input 4 spd, 3.50 n-case traction lock, 31spl, 4 whl disc's, 295-50-15 and 245-60-15 T/A's.
  2. Welcome! Love that picture, looking good. Staci
  3. Thanks. I have one that the pin broke on the pivot for the j hook. If the top shop cant fix it, I'll give you shout.
  4. Has anyone bought a reproduction latch assembly? I am wondering if they fit and work like the oem assembly.
  5. Hi, Received mine the other day. I thought it would look cool on my tool box. I smoothed it out and polished it, looks great!
  6. Welcome from Seattle (Mill Creek), nice looking car. Staci
  7. I put the intake back on, used some sealant on the head side (never did that before) and that did the trick. I was able to time it at 15* initial, HC is 2500-2600 at idle, 250 at 2000. Before,the HC was 4000 + and didn't go down at rpm. Also pulling more vacuum at idle, 10-11, before, it was 8-9 but that was with 22* initial. Pulled a couple plugs after 30 min of run time and they were dry. I did remove a valve cover baffle and saw the oil, it's flowing towards the drain very good and was level with the bottom of the spring seat of the exhaust valve. Oil PSI is 40-42 at idle and 60 and at 2000. 70 when cold. Oil is Valvoline VR1 30W. Now I only have two things to fix to be ready for this spring. 1, voltage regulator keeps dying, I've been thru 3 of them so far, they work for while then quit. I changed the alternator last time I put a regulator and it has already quit working. 2, I need to replace a latch for the convert. top. Small problems in comparison. I was so worried about the engine using oil, my worst fear was the the rings were the problem. I really didn't want to tear it down again after all the time and money I put in to it. I am glad it was just intake. It sure sounds good. Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help. Life is good again:)
  8. Hi, It's been a while, been working so much I haven't had time to mess with the car. I spent a few hours the other day, I put shims between the manifold and heads at 4 of outer most bolt holes and installed 4 bolts hand snug. I measured the gap at the bottom and top both sides. I found a slight variance of .005 on the driver side (+.005 larger gap at the top). I think I can rule out the intake. I pulled a valve spring off, dropped the valve down to the piston and looking at the valve stem thru the intake port, it had a lot of clean oil on it. The lower part of the stem was stained with oil residue. This makes me think it sucking oil thru the guides. The seal looked okay, and I couldn't feel any play in the guide, so maybe the problem is the HV oil pump, too much oil at the top of the engine. I will get it running this weekend, pull a baffle out of one of the valve covers so I can see how much oil is in the head. At this point, I am hoping this is the problem. I'll post again this weekend. Staci
  9. I am not used to the new web site yet, I don't see your video...am I missing something?
  10. Nice job.I am glad this car ended up in your hands, you're doing it right!
  11. If you have spark when cranking it, it should sound like it wants to start. If that's the case, do like Will said and run a hot wire from the battery to the coil, crank it, it should start, if so, like he said, you will have to remove the hot wire to turn it off. Then you will know that you have a wire or ignition switch issue, or possibly the relay. If you have spark and it doesn't start after trying the hot wire, then you may have the distributor in a tooth off.
  12. First, did you check for spark? I ask so I know if we are chasing an ignition problem or a timing problem. If you did check for a spark and there was none, make sure the cap and rotor is good condition, and clean and dry. Any moisture or oil inside the cap can prevent it from starting. If all that is good, open and close the points with the key on, you are looking for an arc as the point s open and close. If no arc, check the resistance on the coil. With the test leads across the + and - terminals, primary resistance should be around .5 to 2 ohms, check the secondary resistance with the + lead to the + side of coil and other lead to the coil output, resistance should be around 6K to 15K ohms. If the coil resistance is good check the condenser, disconnect the condenser wire and hook the condenser lead to battery voltage for a few seconds and then check the condenser for voltage, it should show voltage and slowly bleed down. If no voltage then it's probably shorted.
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