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cjstaci

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Everything posted by cjstaci

  1. 429 CJ, 460 crank, Voodoo cam, pro systems carb, custom headers, close ratio big input 4 spd, 3.50 n-case traction lock, 31spl, 4 whl disc's, 295-50-15 and 245-60-15 T/A's.
  2. Welcome! Love that picture, looking good. Staci
  3. Thanks. I have one that the pin broke on the pivot for the j hook. If the top shop cant fix it, I'll give you shout.
  4. Has anyone bought a reproduction latch assembly? I am wondering if they fit and work like the oem assembly.
  5. Hi, Received mine the other day. I thought it would look cool on my tool box. I smoothed it out and polished it, looks great!
  6. Welcome from Seattle (Mill Creek), nice looking car. Staci
  7. I put the intake back on, used some sealant on the head side (never did that before) and that did the trick. I was able to time it at 15* initial, HC is 2500-2600 at idle, 250 at 2000. Before,the HC was 4000 + and didn't go down at rpm. Also pulling more vacuum at idle, 10-11, before, it was 8-9 but that was with 22* initial. Pulled a couple plugs after 30 min of run time and they were dry. I did remove a valve cover baffle and saw the oil, it's flowing towards the drain very good and was level with the bottom of the spring seat of the exhaust valve. Oil PSI is 40-42 at idle and 60 and at 20
  8. Hi, It's been a while, been working so much I haven't had time to mess with the car. I spent a few hours the other day, I put shims between the manifold and heads at 4 of outer most bolt holes and installed 4 bolts hand snug. I measured the gap at the bottom and top both sides. I found a slight variance of .005 on the driver side (+.005 larger gap at the top). I think I can rule out the intake. I pulled a valve spring off, dropped the valve down to the piston and looking at the valve stem thru the intake port, it had a lot of clean oil on it. The lower part of the stem was stained with oil
  9. I am not used to the new web site yet, I don't see your video...am I missing something?
  10. Nice job.I am glad this car ended up in your hands, you're doing it right!
  11. If you have spark when cranking it, it should sound like it wants to start. If that's the case, do like Will said and run a hot wire from the battery to the coil, crank it, it should start, if so, like he said, you will have to remove the hot wire to turn it off. Then you will know that you have a wire or ignition switch issue, or possibly the relay. If you have spark and it doesn't start after trying the hot wire, then you may have the distributor in a tooth off.
  12. First, did you check for spark? I ask so I know if we are chasing an ignition problem or a timing problem. If you did check for a spark and there was none, make sure the cap and rotor is good condition, and clean and dry. Any moisture or oil inside the cap can prevent it from starting. If all that is good, open and close the points with the key on, you are looking for an arc as the point s open and close. If no arc, check the resistance on the coil. With the test leads across the + and - terminals, primary resistance should be around .5 to 2 ohms, check the secondary resistance with the +
  13. The car looks good in the pictures, but pictures don't show everything. Still, it seems like someone got a good deal for a drag pack car. Being that these cars are almost 50 years old, I would want to do a complete inspection because you never know what may have been done in the past. I do agree, it's a good looking car, but hey, we all love these cars, right?
  14. Hi, I am interested in the seat belts if you have them, and if so, how much? Thanks Staci
  15. With the points closed, put one lead on one side of the points and the other lead on the other side, it should show power. At the coil, with the engine off and key on and points open you should see battery voltage, with the points closed, voltage should drop to 8v, +/-2v.
  16. One other thing, When you crank it, does it sound like it wants to start? does it back fire? if so, these are indications the distributor timing is off, and then you need to bring it back to TDC at the end of the compression stroke and verify that the rotor is positioned at or just before the number one spark plug wire on the cap. Staci
  17. Assuming the work you have done is correct, Start with the basics. Are you getting fuel in the carb? If so, are you getting spark? Pull a spark plug, ground the threaded area and crank it over. If no spark is present then take a volt meter or a test light and check for power to + side of the coil. If you have power at the coil, then check to see if you are getting power across the points. If not, then you may have a bad condenser or coil. If you don't have power at the + side of the coil, then you have a ignition switch or wiring problem. If you have spark at the spark plug, then you may
  18. That Boss engine looks sooooo cool. Brings back memories, I had a 69 Boss 429 with a H&M built engine when I was 18 yo. Your fabrication skills are awesome, the hood is absolutely amazing. :) Staci
  19. Thanks for the info on Hylomar.
  20. Regarding fuel, the a/f gauge shows 13.8 to 14.0:1, and the gas analyzer confirms it,but the hc content is extremely high, I 'am assuming that's the oil causing that. I don't see any signs of oil contamination. For the intake, I didn't use any sealant other than the end seals. What is Hylomar? I haven't heard of that before. Regarding the rings... some people swear by them, others say they have problems, and some say they are just a gimmick. Some say they reduce oil dilution when the rings wear. The top ring looks like it's a regular moly coated ring, and the second is cast iron, b
  21. The seals are viton. In fact,the seals I got from Lunati were teflon and the machinist said not to use them because they won't last. As far as the rings go, I don't think I made a stupid mistake like installing them upside down. I was very careful to make sure I installed everything correctly. I would have a hard time believing I could have that big of a brain fart. I guess until I resolve this I can't take anything off the table.
  22. I initially ran the engine with open breathers, no pcv. It wasn't until I noticed oil on the plugs that I hooked up the pcv. I even hooked up a catch can. Also, I couldn't find oil tracing up the vacuum fitting. The intake manifold only had oil about 1" up in to the runners and the ports on the heads were completely wet. Regarding the rocker studs, they don't protrude into the intake ports like the P51's and SCJ's. They a blind holes. I hope your right and maybe it's too much oil at top. If that's the case, do they make push rods that have smaller orifice's. Just asking because if I
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