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Everything posted by nbracken

  1. I have a 72 351 Q with manual four speed. I've noticed a very short duration (1 secondish) kind of grinding noise intermittently from my gearbox that happens when the car is in reverse. I've not noticed it (yet) in any forward gears. It happens when the car is moving so the clutch engaged Any ideas what this might be? I wondered whether it could be a sign of worn synchro (if there is synchro on reverse...?). I don;t have any issues when using the forward gears. I have not checked the gearbox fluid level yet but must.... Thanks in advance for any comments/ideas
  2. w.tripmeter or w/o tripmeter? Eddy thanks - with tripmeter. The decal solution is OK but I'd prefer to have the correct clock. Mike thanks very much. Does it have the trip meter? Photos showing the condition , confirmation of working operation and the sellers requested price would be good. Again thank you very much
  3. Anyone have one of the above to sell? I'm living in the US at the moment but am thinking that when I move back to Europe one day I may well take my Mach 1 that I've fallen in love with, with me - that would be to Germany and as a classic over 30 years old getting it registered should not be too hard but for sure will need a kph speedometer. I just searched eBay but none there. I could try CJs etc but thought I'd try here first. Thanks
  4. I bought a console from Bill last year and the whole saga was a nightmare. I paid via Paypal and in the end had to go right to the wire with the Paypal appeal process before I received my part. I don't think Bill is malicious I just think he is a) very busy with his own business b) poorly organised and c) a poor communicator. Not a good combination. I regret not putting a post about this on here at the time but I was a new member and didn't want to look like the new guy dishing out the dirt on other members from day one but now when I read the other examples on here I should have followed my own intuition. Sorry I guess I could have helped others more if I'd had the confidence to speak out at the time. Pete I'll send you a PM with Bill's contact details that I managed to track down.
  5. Welcome to the team from Detroit. This is a GREAT forum.
  6. Thanks for everything you do for the rest of us. It really is appreciated.
  8. The chrome locking buttons on the inside rear of both my doors rattle. I picked up new ferrules from NPD (both types that they sell) with the anti-rattle 'fur' on the inside edge, but when I trial fit them, both types are a lose fit in the holes that are in the doors...if you follow me. Does anyone have any tips to fitting the anti rattle ferrules successfully? My only thought is to fix them in place with a little epoxy glue?? Thanks guys
  9. Ray I found the car all on my own - but it was Mike that trained me on what to look at when I was out there searching and he's been a gold mine of advice since I bought it. So you can imagine how I felt when the only time he drove my car over the winter was to drive it 20 yards onto a lift in HIS garage and the high pressure power steering pump hose blew with spectacular results as the fluid went all over the engine bay (including the hot manifold), and very soon after his pristine workshop floor... I do feel so very lucky that having decided to get the underside cleaned back to prepare for the future that I find the base metal underneath so very good. That's why I took so many photos now so that any future buyer (if I ever sell....) can see what lies behind the new looking underseal.
  10. When I bought my Mach 1 last summer I was fortunate to have great advice from a work colleague of mine at Ford, Mike Berardi who is something of a Mustang guru and he helped me find a car with all original steel in great condition. My car had had a repaint at some stage and looked good from above but I knew that work would be needed to keep it in its all original steel on the underside at some stage. So having done quite a bit of mechanical work over the winter (brake pistons, flexible lines, bearings, suspension rubbers, shocks replacement), this week I turned it over to Scott Cupp who runs an excellent bodyshop south of Detroit to do the following: - replace the (incorrect) chrome trim on the front hood and fenders with a painted item to match the car - on the underside of the car, where the 43 year old factory underseal (and subsequent 'top ups') was degrading in several areas and rust starting to appear, to remove it, paint with POR and make good with new underseal. Well as luck would have it, the day I delivered the car to him, the heater core started to leak so that became the first additional job I asked him to sort while he had the car.... I called in tonight to check on progress and was really pleased to see the underside of the car that had been prepared for the paint. Using a high pressure washer, once they started getting the 43 year old underseal off, it became clear that it should all come off and teh base metal underneath was in really good shape all round including in the wheel arches. I took photos all round - a few are attached. Tomorrow they will start applying the POR paint and then will follow with the underseal the next day once the POR has dried. They will also inject wax into the cavities. I don't know how long I'll keep my Mach 1 for but I know we are already "emotionally attached" so I think it will be for some years. Now I have no plans to drive it all year round or extensively in the rain but when all this work on my bottom side is done I will be less concerned about the deterioration that I noted was already starting to happen when I bought the car. Now just got to get the new carpet set installed, my almost refurbished console fitted, my clock restored, my track rod ends replaced...... All good fun and should keep me busy in the coming weeks.
  11. After replacing all 4 shocks, many suspension rubber mounts, all brake cylinders, new pads and shoes, front rotors and bearings over the winter months, all I had to left to do was fit the 4 shiny new 15" Vintique Magnum 500s and Radial T/As that I had bought to replace the incorrect 14" Magnums that came with the car and the accompanying 18 year old Dunlop Qualifier tires. That was until, while maneuvering the car onto the hoist to change the wheels over, the high pressure line on the power steering pump burst spraying fluid over the right side of the engine, the hot manifold, and my friends nice clean garage floor. But that's the joy of olf cars I guess.....
  12. Welcome Time Bandit and it's great to have you in the forum. Very best wishes from Detroit but I know your country from my time working in Europe and you have some of the most beautiful driving roads in the world!!
  13. Hi Joe and welcome from Detroit. This is a great site with so many helpful folks always ready to chip in tho you must have a ton of knowledge already I guess.
  14. Tony this looks like a very nice car with a great spec and a fair price. I bought mine last year off Classiccars.com with a similar but not quite so good spec and unrestored for $23k Good luck with the sale
  15. Bill thanks - when you say the chrome stems type I think you mean the middle ones above - not the full bolt it type - correct? If so that was also my inclination - they look good but without the weight of the full bolt in type that you then need to balance out anyway. I like the idea of the indexing for each wheel. I think the shop I am dealing with will appreciate that also. I received my wheels last night from Summit and ........ two of the four boxes had obviously been opened previously.......and guess what, those two rims had minor flaws or damage to the chrome..... The good news is that with one short phone call and apologies from Summit they agreed to send two replacements and pick up the ones I rejected at no charge. I suggested to them that they should just sell stuff with minor imperfections and/or damage transparently at a discount rather than handle in this way. They said that was their policy but these had slipped through the net.... Overall the new wheels look great though and will be even better with tires in a couple of days and then on the car - wow! I'll post new pics here.
  16. I just ordered my new 15" Magnum 500 from Summit to replace my older 14" 500's that I know are incorrect, and will be fitting BFG Radial 245's next w/e. Which valves do you guys recommend? I guess just regular rubber valves were used when the cars were new - something like these from NPD https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/tire_valve_kit_set_of_5-143780-1.html or alternatively these that have a little chrome dress up https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/valve_tire_rubber_chrome-102604-1.html finally there's the full bolt in type like these I found at Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1957 Appreciate your thoughts. I have fortunately found an old school place "Wetmore's" here in Detroit that understood me when I asked about lug centric balancing and that I learned I would need from an earlier post on here - you guys and gals are GOOD!! http://www.wetmorestireandautorepair.com/
  17. Hey I like the idea of having a go with the product from bare-metal.com and an Xacto knife. For the minimal cost it's worth a shot - I'll let you know how I get on....
  18. I'd really appreciate any tips that will help me get new stops installed on the rear of my Mach 1. When I bought it one was missing and the other looked like it was 42 years old..... I now have two new ones ready to be fitted and have had an initial unsuccessful attempt. It is just a question of some lubrication, a long handled screw driver and persistence? Thanks so much in advance
  19. Guys I just researched what it would cost to get the chrome parts redone on the gearshift surround part of my center console - I have several surrounds but none have good chrome - and received an estimate from Paul's Chroming of $300 but with a new copy part is available from NPD for $132 getting old parts rechromed is a none starter. Has anyone tried the application of chrome adhesive tape like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Self-Adhesive-Pin-Striping-Stripe-Vinyl-Tape-Sticker-Car-6mm-Silver-Chrome-/231509199468?hash=item35e7060a6c&vxp=mtr ? I guess the corners would be a challenge but maybe with some heat and stretching it could be done. Thoughts anyone?
  20. It looks very good. How did you do it? I have one to restore myself just now and I'm cautious about approaching it and getting it wrong! I also have to get my clock fixed and have asked Bobs speedometers for a quote to fix the original mechanism or go to quartz - I know there's arguments in favor of both approaches Oops just found this excellent post......you guys are great!! http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-austin-vert-s-tips-on-floor-console-refinishing
  21. Crate. I installed a ZZ4 http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/small-block-zz4-350.html in my Cobra replica (yes I know it should be Ford but back in the UK Chevy's are just way more common with better availability all round....) in 1999 and its been hassle free ever since and now has over 50k kms on it. A friend installed a rebuild at the same time and has had a bunch of problems.... If you know a great builder then you could well be OK but with crate you get a lot better chance.
  22. Thank you Chuck, Ray and John. Much appreciated!
  23. Hi all my Q code was built 12/10/71 but unfortunately has an aftermarket cleaner at present. I have the correct OE part waiting to be fitted at that has a 351 CJ decal...... hopefully it is correct and appreciate being added to the database so I can maybe find out! I just Googled my chassis number and found the following on the decodethis.com website.....according to this only 154 CJs were built in 1971 - sounds low to me: "Year: 1972 The Mustang grew larger and heavier with each passing year culminating with the 1971-73 models, designed under the supervision of Ford's new product design manager, Semon "Bunkie" Knudsen, originally of General Motors. Knudsen's turn at the helm would see the last high-performance big-block Mustang, 1971's 375 hp 429 Super Cobra Jet. Unfortunately, that very same body style was designed for the sole purpose of big-block installation versions, and was limited to a maximum of 351 CID (5.8 L) in 1972 and 1973, due to extremely strict U.S. emission control regulations and low demand for big block musclecars due to high insurance premiums. Two more high-performance engines were introduced in 1972, the 351 "HO" and 351 Cobra Jet. Both cars were excellent performers, but at nowhere near the level of the Boss cars and original Cobra Jet. Car companies switched from "gross" to "net" power and torque ratings in 1972, and this coincided with the manufacturers making low-compression motors with different, far more restrictive induction systems, making it difficult to compare power and torque ratings. Very much a different car than in 1964, Ford was deluged with mail from fans of the original car who demanded that the Mustang be returned to the way it had been. Engine: V8 351 CID 4V this motor was introduced late in 1971 with very few 1971 Q codes made (154) and followed thru 1972 and 1973 and continued in the cougar torino lines in 1974 the last year for the 351 cobrajet!"
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