MeZapU

It's been so long and I don't remember if it's possible to install the transmission crossmember backwards.

Yes, there is a myriad of different supporting hardware items required in the comparison between 2V heads and 4v heads. All they changed was the heads and did not change the intake manifold, headers or camshaft to compliment the 4V heads. Quite a poor comparison but the episode was all to basically tout the Edelbrock heads on the W.

The metal clip goes into the split bushing(that I don't see pictured) that fits over the ball on the frame mount. The engine bashing floats and moves if the engine torques over. That wouldn't fix the misalignment issue though. I could assume motor mounts or frame mounts being your issue. Was the car ever in a wreck?

I had one of the original FlowKooler pumps on my old current engine and it was bee in place for 16 years without any issues. I figured it's done its duty and didn't feel comfortable swapping it to my new engine, so I bought a new one for it simply for the piece of mind. The new one has an anodized billet impeller. Not sure if it's better than the old one but more Gucci. Still nice being aluminum and much lighter than the cast iron original.

Based on the casting date code it's likely an Aussie block. I can't get a good look at the main caps which are another tell-tale sign. In the link below are pics of the Aussie block that I used for my build. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-351c-build?page=2

Looking for a set of front black seatbelts to fit a 73 Mach 1. My retractors are ok but the inner buckles are mismatched and the passengers side is completely broken. Sleeves are toast too. Please let me know what you have.

I have a Streetdamper on my car. I installed it when my original damper failed in about 1999. Its been on three engines and still going strong. It did not need any spacers and was a direct swap for the original. I highly recommend it. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/flu-620200/overview/

I'm running a Carter stock fuel pump and I dyno'd it at 362hp at the rear wheels.

Does this help at all? https://www.7173mustangs.com/showthread.php?tid=24360

I'm in Navarre at my house visiting from the UK. They so wanted this to be a cat5.

I used a Summit one on my last built because I couldn't find a good used one. Worked just fine.

Be glad it's a early mustang and having arguably the largest reproduction parts count in the world at your disposal. Restore something out of the mainstream and you will quickly realize how easy mustangs are to restore.

If you search eBay Motors for "Ferrea 351C" you will find several complete sets of valves made for 2V or 4V engines and different levels of quality. Their 5000, 6000, and Competition series valves. Only you know what you have and what you are building to select the valves best suited for your engine build. What type of connecting rods are you after? Originals or aftermarket H-beam or I-beam? Press fit or free floating piston pins?

Are you in Bristol UK?

If you install a C6 then you should add about 40hp and 40tq to make up the difference because the auto trans will suck up about that much. I remember going from a C6 to a Toploader and was thrilled because of all of the extra power. Your buddy saying that an auto swap alone will make it quicker is not sage advise. A well built C4 with a 3500 stall and the supporting traction aids would probably make it quicker, but at what expense? A good C6 like an Art Carr with a shift kit and a 2400 stall would make you slower at the track. I know because that's where I came from and I don't regret my manual swap for a second. You are not likely going to break the top loader so I'd stay with that for a while. Sounds like the most time to be shaved is from driving technique and that's free-99. Concentrate on traction/launching and suspension, then quickening up your shifts. Once you are consistent, then build in some more horsepower. An automatic swap is a lot of money to spend only to not go much faster. Do you run drag radials or bias ply tires?