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MeZapU

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Everything posted by MeZapU

  1. Yes, those do match up to the current drivers side one on the fastback we're working on. The one with the cover for the hole would be nice. I tried to send you a PM for my shipping address but it's saying your inbox is full. You can email me at mezapu@gmail.com if it's easiest. Or would you rather I call you at your place of business?
  2. Helping a friend get their car together and we've discovered the passengers seat belt retractor is from a 71-72 and wont click into the 73 buckle. So looking for one please with the cover. Mike
  3. It's been so long and I don't remember if it's possible to install the transmission crossmember backwards.
  4. Yes, there is a myriad of different supporting hardware items required in the comparison between 2V heads and 4v heads. All they changed was the heads and did not change the intake manifold, headers or camshaft to compliment the 4V heads. Quite a poor comparison but the episode was all to basically tout the Edelbrock heads on the W.
  5. The metal clip goes into the split bushing(that I don't see pictured) that fits over the ball on the frame mount. The engine bashing floats and moves if the engine torques over. That wouldn't fix the misalignment issue though. I could assume motor mounts or frame mounts being your issue. Was the car ever in a wreck?
  6. I had one of the original FlowKooler pumps on my old current engine and it was bee in place for 16 years without any issues. I figured it's done its duty and didn't feel comfortable swapping it to my new engine, so I bought a new one for it simply for the piece of mind. The new one has an anodized billet impeller. Not sure if it's better than the old one but more Gucci. Still nice being aluminum and much lighter than the cast iron original.
  7. Based on the casting date code it's likely an Aussie block. I can't get a good look at the main caps which are another tell-tale sign. In the link below are pics of the Aussie block that I used for my build. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-351c-build?page=2
  8. Looking for a set of front black seatbelts to fit a 73 Mach 1. My retractors are ok but the inner buckles are mismatched and the passengers side is completely broken. Sleeves are toast too. Please let me know what you have.
  9. I have a Streetdamper on my car. I installed it when my original damper failed in about 1999. Its been on three engines and still going strong. It did not need any spacers and was a direct swap for the original. I highly recommend it. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/flu-620200/overview/
  10. I'm running a Carter stock fuel pump and I dyno'd it at 362hp at the rear wheels.
  11. Does this help at all? https://www.7173mustangs.com/showthread.php?tid=24360
  12. I'm in Navarre at my house visiting from the UK. They so wanted this to be a cat5.
  13. I used a Summit one on my last built because I couldn't find a good used one. Worked just fine.
  14. Be glad it's a early mustang and having arguably the largest reproduction parts count in the world at your disposal. Restore something out of the mainstream and you will quickly realize how easy mustangs are to restore.
  15. If you search eBay Motors for "Ferrea 351C" you will find several complete sets of valves made for 2V or 4V engines and different levels of quality. Their 5000, 6000, and Competition series valves. Only you know what you have and what you are building to select the valves best suited for your engine build. What type of connecting rods are you after? Originals or aftermarket H-beam or I-beam? Press fit or free floating piston pins?
  16. If you install a C6 then you should add about 40hp and 40tq to make up the difference because the auto trans will suck up about that much. I remember going from a C6 to a Toploader and was thrilled because of all of the extra power. Your buddy saying that an auto swap alone will make it quicker is not sage advise. A well built C4 with a 3500 stall and the supporting traction aids would probably make it quicker, but at what expense? A good C6 like an Art Carr with a shift kit and a 2400 stall would make you slower at the track. I know because that's where I came from and I don't regret my manual swap for a second. You are not likely going to break the top loader so I'd stay with that for a while. Sounds like the most time to be shaved is from driving technique and that's free-99. Concentrate on traction/launching and suspension, then quickening up your shifts. Once you are consistent, then build in some more horsepower. An automatic swap is a lot of money to spend only to not go much faster. Do you run drag radials or bias ply tires?
  17. I recently put CalTracs on my 66 F-100 and it was night and day better. I even kept the original springs because I still tow and haul things with it. You can always try the CalTracs first and add the Monoleafs later. See how it goes. Is that 2.24sec 60' with street tires or slicks? I was getting that with my Mach 1 on street tires leaving the line at idle(4-speed). It has 4 1/2 leafs and Lakewood traction bars. Any more rpm's and I'd just spin. I would have loved to run slicks but I don't have a safety loop and didn't want to start down that road of modifications.
  18. I've seen the rear brake line to the axle folded over and crimped off with a vice-grip still dangling in space.
  19. I also can vouch that a high volume pump is a bad thing is a stock rebuild. It caused me a ton of headaches with distributor gears and snapping the drive pin on more than one occasion. I installed a standard oil pump and all the problems went away and the oil pressure was darn near identical.
  20. Don't know why people have so much trouble with the FCC. Follow the instructions and it works fine. Mines been going well in my F100 for about a 18 months now. Not a single problem. I have the 400hp Go Street kit and its perfectly suited to what I use it for. And I'm pretty close to that 400hp mark. I use the stock distributor with a pertronix ignitor to operate a MSD 6A ignition box, then the tach output from the MSD goes to trigger the FiTEch.
  21. 22 years ago when I bought my car it still had the single exhaust on it. I has a custom 2 1/4" system built for it with generic turbo mufflers. It really woke the car up performance wise for the stockiness of the engine. You do not need to overthink it nor spend a lot of money. I think I paid $214 all those years ago out the door. If I were to do it again I'd just go and have 2 1/2" pipe installed as its easier to get mufflers and attach things like headers and exhaust tips at a later date.
  22. I always wanted to get a report on my car but it being low optioned as well and all of the changes I made to it, it's a lot of money to spend just to satisfy some curiosity. The only options I'm aware of it having is: - 351c 2v - Automatic transmission - Air Conditioning - power steering/brakes - 3/4 vinyl top
  23. Probably going to be an Eleanore or Diamonds are Forever copy.
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