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MeZapU

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Everything posted by MeZapU

  1. There it is. In a basement on those two boxes. Who would have thought to look there? Just kidding of course. I'd like to find one myself.
  2. I had my Magnum 500 wheels custom made by www.specialtywheel.com in Oregon. They are a vendor that make the wheels and sell them to places like Mustangs Unlimited, NPD, CJ Pony Parts, etc. They are not the "billet" style 17's but the real deal Magnum 500's.
  3. I miss my Gillette Sensor 2 bladed razor. They still work great. Blades were getting hard to find but I could get a pack of 10 for $15-$16. Would last me a year if I didn't dry shave. I lost the dang handle about two months ago while deployed and I'm distraught as I'll likely never find another.
  4. It would be close but only 1/2" out further than a std 8x15" Magnums with 4.5" backspace. Tires would be the deal breaker. I would prefer to attempt to mount them before spending the money.
  5. Oil brand name: Comp Cams http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=159&Category_Code= Camshaft manufacturer: Comp Cams XE256H HFT cam in my 66-F100's 352ci engine. Recommendation: Used this additive to break in two sets of lifters on the same cam. First set of lifters were defective due to them bleeding down internally. Second set are fine and are still going strong.
  6. When I first bought my car in Jan of 1995 its had the Ram-Air hood. Over the years of learning what is what I realized that my hood hinge springs were the std round spring variety. I've never purchased a Marti report to know what options my car had originally. I do know the car has accident damage from a very long time ago and some poor repairs were accomplished. the secondary catch on the hood was moved so the hood had come up on me @35mph soon after I got it, and I'm sure it did the same in the past to the previous owner from the damage evidence. I believe my hood hinges are not original but the hood is, as it was the same color as the body with the same patina on the dead original paint. I never had an issue with the hood slamming closed with the std hood springs, but my junkyard searches have recently awarded me some of the correct flat wire springs. I blasted, painted, and finally swapped the springs this evening. The flat springs are about 1/4" shorter than the round ones are. It is now noticeably more difficult to push in the hood to make the hinges go down. Aside from that, I am not able to determine definitively if one is stiffer than the other without utilizing some sort of measuring device. Just the fact that the shorter flat spring holds the hood up better.
  7. I have a reduced base circle Crane roller cam. I'm not that impressed with its performance. If you are staying mild then it's not really worth the expense. If you do take the plunge, use the link-bar style lifters as it does not require the reduced base circle cam and is much easier on the valve train components. In this instance, the cheap way is not the best way. I wish I could do it over again.
  8. Good luck. Body shops come and go very quickly in ABQ. When I lived there I had my 85 GT painted by a guy who went out of business within a year. The same thing for another friend who had another 85 GT. 99% of all the shops in town want collision work. In and out and big profits from insurance companies. No one seems to want to sand on an older car to repair old damage not located to a specific area. Then deal with a customer who may not have the cash to finish the project through to the end. But then if you pay up front, your car might never get finished. Then will the quality be good enough for you when its all done? That's why I started learning how to paint cars myself. I wish you luck. Its not easy out there.
  9. My car has had the round springs and ram-air hood ever since I bought it in 1995. It's actually pretty difficult to close the hood as the springs seem plenty strong. I just picked up a pair of the flat wire springs. When I get them cleaned up and on the car I'll report back with my impressions. Maybe a week or two.
  10. POR 15 sells a spray able engine enamel that is a spot-on match. You just need to thin it a bit before spraying as its a bit too thick straight out of the can.
  11. Do you have a diaphragm style pressure plate or a Long style(three finger)? I've seen diaphragm style pressure plates cause weak acting clutch pedal return.
  12. When I was a dorm rat I piratically lived at the auto hobby shop working on my cars. I feel your pain. There has got to be some perks to working anywhere.
  13. The only thing requiring L+R heads is if they are equipped with emissions ports. There are usually plugged at the front of the engine and open at the rear for air injection tubes. Usually 79-95 5.0's are the ones you need to worry about. If you are buying aftermarket non emissions heads, then there is no difference between the L+R heads.
  14. The coopers are hard as a rock and quite slippery in the wet. I love my BFG's. No experience with the Firestones though.
  15. I'll shoot anything I can get ammo for. Just picked up a Springfield 1911 range officer.
  16. Pretty neat. Lots of similarities with your truck and my 66 F-100 when I first got it. Right down to the holes in the tailgate where someone mounted a license plate. Mine still has the 352 that I warmed up similarly to yours except I have a performer RPM intake but do not have the rocker shaft spacers with the Comp cam.
  17. Those 4-speed conversion parts should sell fast.
  18. I've seen this from a few cars and in every instance was cured by performing a basic tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap+rotor, points (if required), verifying timing and idle mixture. Fresh fluids never hurt either, especially on a new car purchase. And yes, being too lean causes detonation/pre-ignition/dieseling.
  19. My 1973 Mach 1 did not. 351, 2v, C-6 car. Had no wheel hop until I installed the toploader. Then it was really bad. Especially on the drivers side until I installed some old school lakewood traction bars.
  20. Any engine with vacuum secondaries isn't going to really "launch" at speed when you mat the throttle.
  21. I have some Taylor straight end cut-to-fit wires on my car with Hooker headers. Been on the car for about 13 years now and still doing good.
  22. My Holley 780 in the Mach 1 is using a yellow secondary spring. My 82 F-250 with a 302 liked a brown spring. It's not the fact that it needs a bigger carb. It has to do more with gearing and how fast the secondaries need to open to keep in synch with the engines acceleration through the gears. The spring is more of a timing thing from my experience. Every car and engine combination is different so there is no set answer to which spring is best. -If the secondaries open too fast/early, the engine will usually bog as if its got tall gears and/or the engine doesn't have enough power to get up in rpm's fast enough. -If the secondaries open to slowly/late, the engine could potentially be making more horsepower as the slow secondary actuation is acting as a restriction. You just need to have a play and see which one works best for your car. A quick change spring kit helps a bunch as those secondary diaphragms can be a pain to R&R and can tear at the screw holes after messing with them over and over.
  23. They are pressed together. I had to drill/grind out the knob bushing at the back side being careful not to damage the handle. If you get the replacement knobs you should be able to see how the parts fit together. Be careful not to press the new knob together too tightly or it won't rotate/spin.
  24. Wheeler dealers is more to my liking. Too bad they put the selling/profit spin on it. Just fix up old cars and call it good.
  25. That mini bike looks fun. Too bad you are so far away.
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