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Everything posted by MeZapU

  1. Most lumpy cams might require adjustable rocker arms and heavier valve springs so it might make things more complicated and expensive than you think. If you know it's temporary, stick with something stockish or things might snowball. If you are willing to take the plunge, then I'd just try a solid flat tappet cam. I'm partial to custom cams and cant really recommend anything off the shelf.
  2. Has it been inaccurate from day one? I have found with many aftermarket sender units that the plastic float absorbs fuel after a while causing its buoyancy to decrease. The float sinks essentially during different conditions. Every time I replace a sender I always try to reuse or find a brass float to go with it.
  3. I have one but it's pretty scabby. It will fill the hole in the dash though.
  4. FWIW I don't like using reduced base circle roller cams. The lobe profiles are a compromise from the start. The one I had in the past from Crane always had valvetrain noise no matter what. Random rpm's, random temperatures, random engine loads it would tick. The spring rates are higher than you'd expect to control the valvetrain and it just adds up to excessive valvetrain wear. Because of that I've had it mushroom the exhaust valve tips after 500 miles, and it started to do the same on the intakes but not as bad. I had to pull the heads and install the best quality valves I could get. No more issues but I always had the tick. I also went through 3 bronze distributor gears(3k-5k miles each) before installing one of the new billet distributor gears that would last with the hard billet camshaft core. Now all they sell are the composite ones. If you must go roller cam, get one that uses standard lobe profiles and get the Morel link bar roller lifters. They seem the only ones of late that do not have issues that are reasonably priced. Going down the road you are going is an all or nothing affair. Either keep it simple and stockish with a HFT or SFT cam, or go roller and everything starts getting expensive fast. After going with my new custom SFT cam and valvetrain, I wish I would have done it like this all those years ago and saved myself a lot of headaches. I've gone down the same road you are going down about 18 years ago. Just trying to advise you from the past issues I've run into before the engine is together and you need to live with it for the next bunch of years like I did, and fighting with it the whole time.
  5. You can use WD-40 and a wire wheel on a drill. Looks like engine is already .040" over. I also agree that it's a pretty big cam for your combo. Those low compression pistons wont be doing you any favors. Would be better to run a smaller street cam. It will just all around perform better. I did big valves in my old Aussie heads. Really didn't help. Roller cam only marginally better vs a comparative street grind HFT or SFT cam. You could save a lot of money just installing a HFT camshaft. Even going with a custom HFT/SFT camshaft would be notably cheaper and perform better than a off-the-shelf roller cam setup. Especially since the combination of parts is so unique.
  6. If you need some 351c Z-bar parts and brackets I have some used stuff that I can sell you. They need some resto wrork, but if you will be modifying them anyways...
  7. Looks like some very good work going into this car.
  8. It will work. Be sure to install the ballast resistor or the box will overheat. Had a buddy that did a conversion and went through 2 used boxes and a new one before he asked for help and I figured out what he did wrong. The coil will get hot too but it seems that the box will fail before the coil does. In the end it may just be easier to run a MSD ignition box like a 6A. No need to get plugs or cut and extend wires, or run a ballast resistor. The milti-spark properties usually make it easier to start and net some gains in torque/hp. It is more expensive though.
  9. I'll be going to walk around. Not going to pay the $55 they want to enter. You also need to be a member of the MCA. That's just crazy IMO. Any other year it's only $35 for the weekend.
  10. I rate these gaskets highly. Had them on for a while now without issue. Even recommended them to a few friends who have had luck with them. Only issue is they need a retorque after a heat cycle or two, but after that retorque they are g2g. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5652-060/overview/make/ford
  11. Sometimes when a carb gets old you fight and fight with it to no avail. Any brand new carb a person tries is often a much better option. Used carbs are often a gamble and are usually trouble passed from one person to the next. The only time you get a good one is if it was from an upgraded combo and the owner disassembled and cleaned it before the gas turned to varnish. I like the Summit Racing carbs too and have had good luck with them. Personal bias, I love my Holleys as I understand them and know them inside and out. If you just want something to bolt on and cruise, then an Edelbrock may be fine for what you want it to do. I don't rate them for performance because I've had 2V Autolite carb that outperformed an Edelbrock 4-barrel on my old F-250.
  12. A recurved Duraspark is the best bet for value and longevity. An MSD distributor can get you the same thing but is expensive, but much easier to tune vs the Duraspark. The Pertronix and Summit units are made in China and really not made of the best materials. They will degrade in performance much more quickly than the Duraspark physicaly, and their electronics don't have the best reputations either. It is difficult to get a consistent advance curve in these units as they have very light weights and springs. As RPMs rise and fall you can get different advance numbers going up in the rpms vs coming back down. Just something I've noticed. I have the luxury of having my own Distributor machine so it makes my choice clear.
  13. I just had a ProSystems 4150 done for my new engine last year. Their bottom limit is 400hp. I wanted them to do a carb for my F100 but it was under that mark. Quick Fuel makes a more hot-rod style carbs vs a standard Holley and they work ok, but still not as well as a fully set up or custom carb. IMO Edelbrock carbs run ok out of the box, but you leave a ton of performance on the table vs a Holley. What are you looking for and what is your combo? It will help us narrow our recommendations as most often custom carbs like a ProSystems/Quick Fuel unit are expensive and primarily for the highest performing applications. There are varying levels of performance and budget to take into consideration.
  14. I used this for my trunk resto. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DPL0/DM109/N0473.oap?ck=Search_N0473_-1_-1&pt=N0473&ppt=C0171 I needed four cans. It really shoots out but doesn't cover very well. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-needs-a-new-gas-tank-and-trunk-floor-repair?page=2
  15. They are bits of the valve stem oil seals. Often referred to as umbrella seals. They get hard and brittle after the years, crack and come out from between the valve springs. You should probably think about replacing them. Especially if your car smokes at startup.
  16. I stand corrected. I'll defer to the expert.
  17. It is a splice, signified in the harness by a big black rubbery sleeve looking thing.
  18. People have been selling kits like this for a long time. I have a buddy who used one on his 70 Mach 1 351c about 10 years ago. He still managed to spin a rod bearing about 6 months after he built his motor. Fault of the bypass line? We will never know if it helped or had no factor. Lifter bushings and restrictor kits are the only real way to be worry free, if you worry at all about your high rpm oiling. Some people tout specific cam bearings, but the restrictor kits do the same thing.
  19. Pro Stars would be your best bet for fitting. I used to run some 7" wide and later 8" wide ones on the front of my car for a few years. Much much lighter than the steel Magnums even being 7"+8" wide with 235's. Street driving them had the fronts showing cracks where the spokes necked down after 8 years or so. One of my motivating forces to the Magnum 500 transition.
  20. 9.0 flat at 84mph in the 1/8th mile. 2.4 sec 60'. Had to leave off idle and ease into it or tires would spin. I was the only car there with street tires and the track prep certainly wasn't doing me any favors. I was there more for participation rather than trying to run a number. The track just opened two months ago after being closed for 5 years.
  21. I had my original fall apart and cause some drama. I replaced it with a Streetdamper and it's been on my car for the past 16 years. No rubber to wear out. I really like it. Still pretty expensive though @ $275. If you just need a stock replacement I've used the http://www.damperdudes.net/ in the past with good results. http://www.damperdudes.net//product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=214&osCsid=c3osl1ijf5vuah4183su762lt6
  22. This one has been for sale for at least 6+ months. Overpriced. Needs some things put back to original. Worth a look to compare it against other cars if nothing else. https://panamacity.craigslist.org/cto/5988606395.html
  23. When the original C6 in my car was getting tired I had a similar issue. No fwd or rev gears at all. Had to get it towed. Turned out that all the clutch material from the aging transmission had completely clogged the filter. New filter had me going again but the trans was fading fast and needed a rebuild.
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