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MeZapU

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Everything posted by MeZapU

  1. Closest thing I could find is 1964 1/2 Skylight blue. http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/showcar.cgi?type=search&line=148728127215&pic=/1964/1964_00023_02 The 65-66 Silver Blue is too blue.
  2. Looks good. Did you contact Specialty Wheels Ltd? They made my wheels and it only took about 3 weeks. https://www.specialtywheel.com/
  3. Spent last Saturday at my local track participating in their Gasser Drag event. All cars pre 1974. Fantastic day. Lots of eye candy. My car is no race car by a long shot but for the sake of the venue, my friends asked me to participate and support the track. I was the only car there on street tires. You don't need to be fast if you look this good.
  4. My wheel dressing of choice is: 303 Aerospace Protectant https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487116429&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant It is pretty much the same as the old Dupont Teflon Tire Shine. Darkens the rubber and trim without excessive gloss. Contains no petroleum distillates so it will not degrade the rubber/plastics and has UV protectants. Lasts a decent amount of time. Bottle lasts a while too.
  5. Very typical of the FelPro Print-o-Seal gaskets. They have given me and many of my other car friends issues just like this over the years. FelPro denies any issues with the gaskets. They just suck. I used the metal valley pan gasket for my last 351c build without issue. My other recent hot rod Windsor builds I am using a Cometic gasket. On the standard Windsor builds I use the metal reinforced solid blue FelPro gaskets.
  6. I actually had some used and cheap mechanical oil/water temp gauges for a long time contemplating this upgrade, but I could not come up with a decent and easy way to make them work. I too was a fan of mechanical gauges and was reluctant to use electrical gauges, but I saw no other alternative to mounting the gauge to the bezel, them mounting the bezel to the dash. The gauges are pointed towards the driver and building a bracket to hold the gauges would be quite complicated with all the angles involved. Ford angled the gauges within the molded gauge housing, then the gauges matched up to the angled bezel holes. I'm almost ashamed to say that I mounted the gauges to the back of the bezel with an abundant amount of hot melt glue. Scuffed the chrome behind the bezel for more bite. Seems to work a treat. I actually needed to remove the 1st mechanical oil pressure gauge I was trying to mock up as I never even noticed it was a 0-200psi gauge before I mounted it. No idea what application you would use that gauge. It was free so I didn't argue back when I picked it up. Cut the gauge out, cleaned it up a but before gluing in the new electrical gauge. Then I built a wiring harness with a 6-pin connector (only used 5-pins) to plug in the bezel containing the gauges into the car. Voltage at the regulator is the same as voltage anywhere else in the car. I have it tapped into the fuse block at a switched fuse. That same 12v is powering the oil/water temp gauges. Then there is just the lighting wire tapped into the factory radio connector. Common ground. Then the two sender unit wires for the oil/temp gauges that run into the engine compartment.
  7. I mentioned a synchronizer ring in my last post as that is what most people refer to them as. I've rebuilt scores of toploaders in the past. The brass rings are called "blocker rings", the teeth on the specific gear itself(1st,2nd,3rd,4th) are the "clutching teeth". The tapered surface the blocker ring seats onto is called the "clutch cone". The ring that slides between 1-2 or 3-4 is called the "synchronizer ring". The synchronizer ring fits over the "hub" and it locates the "keys". You can pry the brass blocker ring away from the clutch cone (towards the rear of the transmission if it's 4th gear which is basically the input shaft) with a flat bladed screwdriver. Pry a little, spin the input shaft 180 and pry some more to get it unstuck. If it was bogging down the engine it must really be mashed on there. A picture is worth a thousand words. Post one up and I'll try to help. I can even post a picture back if it would help.
  8. The big 5" monster tach, aftermarket gauges and radio had done their time and for years I've been wanting to convert my dash parts to a more factory original feel. I had been amassing the bezels and parts over the past two years or so and I finally got everything together and working. I had purchased a factory tach cluster but decided I didn't want to change the wiring. I sold it and it got me one of Rocketmans Tach conversions for my factory cluster, and I installed a trio of Auto Meter electronic gauges in the center bezel. To top it off I went back to a traditional two knob radio. After hunting for a decent affordable AM/FM for about a year, I decided on a Custom Autosound Slidebar retro radio. Some things about the radio I didn't like, but it looks the part to the casual observer, and does the job. Before: After:
  9. Hmm. I never had an original transmission in my car so I can only say the trans does what the valvebody tells it to. If you'd like it to shift with a more performance feel, they try an old fashioned shift kit. When I bought my car it too was missing the kickdown rod. Never hurt anything. Back in the mid 90's it was tough to find one. Think I got one from a mustang junkyard in Oklahoma. Still needed bushings. After I installed it, it wasn't as big of a deal as I thought. But I guess it was the right thing to do.
  10. Take the rear wheels and put them on the front and see if the vibe moves with the tires.
  11. Looking at pics, I'd bet on some major cowl rust. Worth restoring, Sure. But at what cost compared to the repairs and work needed?
  12. Did you ever stand the transmission on its end, or whack the main shaft while installing the seal? Sometimes that can really jam a synchro onto the gear, but I'd think that would pop loose with engine torque if you tried to go into 4th.
  13. Maybe you should start a new thread explaining your budget and intentions so we can try to see if we can steer you in the right direction to meet your goals. There will likely be several options and opinions put forth. In the end, you will need to decide the path you will take.
  14. I agree with much of what Chuck has to say. It's all up to you which direction you take with your car. In my years of ownership(22) I started using many aftermarket parts, but over the years have been coming back towards original appearing parts. Not 100% original, but enough that the casual onlooker would never know the difference. My engine appears quite stock but makes 400ish flywheel horsepower. 500 is certainly a possibility with a stroker and still be made streetable if you executed it correctly. You could flaunt it or conceal it. Just have a plan and stick to it. Changing directions during a build gets expensive. Do what you want the first time so you don't need to spend more money later doing something again.
  15. Hmm. Did you replace the top cover gasket? I would also try to reset the shift levers. Often one can get bumped and knocked out of alignment. You could try your troubleshooting again but loosen the adjustment nuts so that you are certain they are all truly in their neutral position.
  16. I should probably think about replacing mine too. 20 years ago (a year after I bought my car), after the car sat in storage for a year I could not get the trunk unlocked with the key. I had to remove the back seat, push through that layer of insulation, destroying it in the process, and pop the latch with a long screwdriver. What a mess it made all over me as it disintegrated.
  17. I recently purchased some of the medium ginger dye for my interior. I love SEM products but this can seemed seriously watered down. Not sure if it was just this color that needed to be this way. Usually it is very opaque but I almost needed half a can just to paint a single piece of a-piller trim.
  18. Just looking at it, I'd say it's worth about $6k-$7k. The cast headers are worth about $1600-$2000. Be sure to check to see if it's a 427 and not a 406. But either is valuable in their own circles. Date codes and casting numbers are everything with FE engines. And then there is that Boss 302 in the background...
  19. If they are the blue-green viton seals then they should be fine. When I had my old 351c I also ran some Total Seal rings (gapless 2nd ring) in it and I was forever plagued with some amount of oil fouling of the plugs and puffs out of the tailpipes. I attributed it to the fact that I did not have the block honed with torque plates because the shop that did the machining did not have any for a SBF. The instructions specifically say to have that done but since I rebuilt my engine when I was stationed in England, it was an impossibility. It always bugged me but there was nothing I could do about it. I couldn't prove it was the cause of my oil consumption but it was the only item left that I could not address over time. I did the intake gaskets several times. valve seals, Removed high volume pump and installed a std volume one, different weight oils. Nothing ever cured it. With my new motor, bored with torque plates and running traditional moly rings, I have no oil consumption at all.
  20. What type of valve spring oil seals did you use? I've had poor luck with the white Teflon type not lasting but a few hundred miles before they started leaking oil past the guides. Installed some positive stop type Viton seals and the oil burning problem went away.
  21. I just purchased a Custom Autosound flip face style retro radio. I was pretty disappointed at its chincy quality for $275. Thinking of sending it back.
  22. Sorry I missed your reply, I forgot to hit the subscribe button. My cars interior is Ginger but color does not really matter. I only need one good drivers side one from a fastback. I can paint to match. Mike
  23. I have a few parts that I rescued that are used for converting one of our cars to a 4-speed. I came across a guy who parted a 71 fastback about 10 years ago and had these parts lying in a pile in the back of a bread van used for storage. Pedal on the floor in one trailer. Z-bar in a 5-gallon bucket in another trailer. These were all of the parts that I was able to find. I searched for over an hour. There was the under dash pedal cradle but it was very rusty and from whet I remember, not needed to convert. Just remove the regular brake pedal pin and install clutch pedal w-pin. It has the support for the assist spring, but the spring itself was missing. The z-bar is there along with the frame and bellhousing mount pivots. It even still has the clip to retain the two piece bushing. These parts have not been cleaned up. The z-bar needs some work from the typical worn rod holes. Pedal just needs a clean and paint. I'm not making a ton of money off this because the guy I got em off of knew these parts were pretty rare. I figured this would be something that someone on the forum who is willing to put in some effort to restore, could save a lot of money vs buying new parts or off e-bay. I'm asking $250 plus shipping
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