tony-muscle

These days they may add a little bit of COVID to make the sway bars stiffer.

Which coilover are you using?

I am still debating if I will make the trip there. Who all are planning on attending? I know David will be exhibiting his car. This year is the special for our 71-73 years so it is very tempting. It would be a 12 hour drive for me, which is doable. I think I can drive 10+ hours the first day to somewhere east of Pittsburg and then arrive the next morning. https://www.carlisleevents.com/events/events-detail/index?id=ford+nationals There are a lot of events going on over the weekends. Which ones are a must to attend?

These are the JRi (single adjustable) that came with my Maier MOD1 suspension. I still need to test drive the car but from what I hear this is a very high quality brand. Seen here with the Hyperco spring and the new UCA.

Wow. That's a lot of work. Can't wait until you can drive it and give us some feedback.

Which brand of sway bar are you using? A 1/4" gap is better than what I have. With a 1 1/8" sway bar and Maier's suspension I am getting a hair of a gap. I still have not driven the car and needs to be aligned. I will approximate camber with an inclinometer and toe-in by eye before taking it for alignment. The suspension has adjustable coil overs. For now I will have it sit at 1" below stock. Hopefully this weekend I will know if I have binding on the road.

I blame it in the "barn find" phenomenon. Just because it is an old card found in horrible condition it doesn't make it valuable.

Went I first saw this number I was wondering why complain about it, but then I realized that the asking price is actually $17,500. I wonder how will it pay "you" back. Maybe a heart attack!

I was recommended NGK R5673-7 for my 408. I will be giving the R5673-6 a chance since I think they could be a little hotter.

With EFI is also easy to place a hidden kill switch for the fuel pump or EFI unit.

To David's point, Viper has a tilt module that activates when the tilt of the car changes after the alarm is activated. At the end of the day you are trying to deter the thieve away from your car, but if they want it, they will get it.

I use the Hooker gaskets that work with the headers.

Alarms can be effective but nothing is 100%. The alarm is meant to deter the thieve and make they look at the next car. However, if a thieve really wants your car they will get it. Get an alarm such as the Vipers that can have their own battery in case the main one is disconnected. I suggest using it together with a hood lock and a 2-way remote. The 2-way remote will let you know if the alarm is activated as long as you are within a 1/2 a mile range (they advertise up to 1-mile, but that's without buildings and stuff). They are "easy" to install if you are good with soldering and fishing wires

How are they/you dealing with the surface finish caused by the fibers? We have concrete here in my office that was mixed with fibers. What happens is that the fibers that stay at the top eventually "separate" or come off the concrete leaving cracks behind. I can only assume that the fibers let moisture wick through, which eventually leads to separation and cracking. So after a few years the top surface becomes rough due to the the cracks left behind by the fibers that separate from the concrete.

I have tried those. It smokes everywhere and the creatures either come back or don't die.