Jump to content

tony-muscle

Site Supporters
  • Content Count

    2,848
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Everything posted by tony-muscle

  1. Mine has the 5" metal bar and bolts to the same hole in the rocker. The tab may work but depending on how long it is. I have been working with Seatbelt Planet and they will custom make anything for you. It really doesn't cost that much to modify them since they make them to order. Call Steve Pekrul at (405) 736-0088, explain what you want and go from there. He has helped me deal with customizing my setup. In a short note, I had him add a shoulder extension (sash) and cut the web shorter. Unfortunately, I ordered it cut too short and he is currently redoing it for me. The shoulder extension wor
  2. I had a similar issue in the past. At the time I had a strut crossmember that was bent. After replacing the crossmember the rubbing went away. However, it is uncomfortably close. I don't have a solution since I have gone to a different front suspension since then.
  3. What heat range? If all is good with the ignition, the maybe you need hotter plugs.
  4. Glad that you are back at it. Please keep us posted with pictures.
  5. What about what Stanglover suggests, but cutting a groove on the part that is sticking out so you can fit a flat blade screw driver. Then with some heat to soften the plastic you can try to unscrew it. You can heat the plastic up with a drier but do not use a lighter or similar to avoid burning it. PS (EDIT): it is hard to see how much of the screw is sticking out but you may be able to grip it and turn it with vise pliers. Still try to heat the plastic up to help it losen.
  6. Amazon is $110: https://www.amazon.com/Prothane-6-503-BL-Black-Motor-Mount/dp/B000NSHQSI
  7. Sorry. I just realized yours is a 73. It is right on the title so maybe I should read that before answering.
  8. I have a 1971 and purchased the Prothane 6-503-BL, which are of the captive style. These specific model did not change the location of my engine.
  9. It will make a noticeable effect only if you have outgrown the flow potential of the dual 2.5". This is a good write up about all the theory: https://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/exhaust-system-performance-math/ Based on this information 2.5" may be borderline for 500 hp, but I think you will only notice the difference at the top end. Below and at peak torque shouldn't see much difference. One thing is theory and the other is practice. As Kevin says, 3" exhaust would be challenging in our cars, specially going over the axle and can't even think if you had staggered shocks.
  10. I have seen those, but I can't imagine why they are so expensive. Has anyone used the ACDelco 45C1011? The description talks about a bearing but I can only guess that it is not a roller bearing.
  11. I had a bad experience with Lee Steering rebuilding my steering pump. The rebuilt was okay but the pump housing was distorted and it leaked. Then they went out of business so couldn't return it. Eventually i had to buy a rebuilt pump just to use the housing. I wanted to keep the rebuilt pump by Lee since he had upgraded the preasure or whatever he did. That said, I think they do a good job rebuilding but not necessarily check the components they reused. Since then i replaced the pump with a Saginaw so if anyone is interested on the Ford rebuilt pump i have it available.
  12. I am selling the A/C system that I removed from my car. It includes: Ducts behind the dash, except defroster duct. Also, not including the registers. Evaporator box with blower motor and vacuum actuators. The evaporator should be flushed since it is likely to have debris. All the actuators are in working condition. Expansion valve and hoses. These should be flushed. Also, they were cut to fit a Sanden compressor, not York. Water heater valve. Center console A/C controls w/ wire harness. Vacuum lines. York compressor, not working, for parts only. Inc
  13. This brings me memories of going to the movies in Netherlands. They have a break in the middle of the movie so you can go do your stuff. They will sell beer in the lobby that you can bring in. I know there are some theaters now that you can order beer and food and they will bring it, but there is no break to unload the beer, which is a problem when the movies are long or when you drink too much.
  14. Not to keep going off topic here, but after @Don C shared the link for the level switches. I did some research and called one of the fluid level manufacturers. I was recommended to use the Madison M8000 switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00909404Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Being so cheap, I got one right away. Last night after taking measurements and making sure it would work I decided to take the plunge and drilled the cover. The MC has a bladder gasket between the cap and tank that I needed to account for. I drilled, tapped, put a spacer and I think I am
  15. Keep an eye for any gaps between the bearing retainer plate and bearing. I saw an issue when I installed my Wilwood's in the rear. See this thread: If you need shims let me know since I should still have some around. They were not that easy to source.
  16. So I started this thread about a year ago. After all the ideas you guys gave me, I really liked the idea of between the column and the fuel gauge (Thanks Eric). So I got some polycarbonate (PC) tubing with an ID that will fit the warning lights. The choice of PC plastics was just because there are many different sizes for sale in Amazon, plus PC is a very tough plastic. I cut notches at the rear of the PC tubes and matching notches on the column's plastic cover (I cut the one that Hemikiller sent me, thanks). These notches are for the wires. I then drilled holes on the tubes and cover so I can
  17. I have the Retrosound Hermosa. I think it is a good option if you want to keep the "classic" look. The only issue is that is not that intuitive to use because in order to keep a classic look the buttons are not labeled. For speakers I have Kickers 5x7 in the doors and 6x9 at the rear. I also added a hidden Kenwood narrow subwoofer to the passenger kick panel area. The subwoofer made a whole world of difference in sound. You can't get too much bass out of the door speakers. I recently added tweeters to the dash.
  18. Great story and nice looking car. Welcome!
  19. or maybe a tip on how not to position yourself when welding idiot 2.mp4
  20. I know some had issues fitting 17" in the front due to contact with the ball bearing. Any issues for you?
  21. Congrats David. I would love to have the chance of driving my Mustang all the way up there. I should try this year. Worst case, if you don't want to spend on a new one you can always rent one from Uhaul or others. They are typically cheap to rent. Edit: I am actually realizing that this would be just before the Hot Rod Power Tour. I am already planning on the HRPT so maybe I can attend these back to back.
×
×
  • Create New...