rackerm

I have not used one, but I have read that a Power Steering Flow Fitting Control Valve can help by increasing flow. As I understand it, the more flow your steering system receives the easier it will be to turn the wheels, but will decrease feel. Having less flow will put feel and stability back in the steering system, but decrease assist.

Glad to hear that you solved the power steering problem. Should make driving it more enjoyable from now on.

Nice build. Love the Grabber Blue. I grew up not too far from the dealership where your car was originally delivered to on Rt35 in Manasquan NJ. Good luck with it.

My bumper is 6 1/2 inches out from the grill at the center line. What helps to reduce the width/size of the bumper in appearance is the low gloss black filler section between the grill and the bumper. The line between the car color and the low gloss black is imbedded in the contour of the bumper itself.

I know the harnesses are different by year. This is from my 73 heavily optioned vert.... It may help some....

I don't have a good picture of the back, but here is a pic of my passenger side door harness on my 73 convertible with P/W. It does look like the yellow wire with the black stripe is connected to #5 as you suggest. Note the single female plug with black wire and gold hash marks is for automatic door locks found on a cougar. These harnesses were also used on cougars with power windows and door locks.

I had a memorable time having my car featured at Carlisle Ford Nationals 2021 . Met up with a couple of our members whose cars were also featured and on display in Building 'T"... David Fowler, John Wanzel, Brian Dunham and maybe others who are members as well. Received one of the Carlisle Ford Nationals 2021 banners that were hanging from the building "T" ceiling. Now I have figure out where to hang it in the house where the wife won't complain.

Bdennis, Geof is correct. I have a 73 Convertible with Deluxe Ginger interior (CF), and it has Ginger belts FD (F= Color and D=type). I also had a 73 Vert with Black Deluxe Interior with black belts (AD). The trim code is usually the key for the subsequent color codes, on such things as belts and steering wheel and column, floor mats, etc. These color keyed parts should also have an "F" for Ginger ex. A black two spoke steering wheel and column is: "BAA" and a Ginger 3 spoke (Rim Blow) steering wheel is: "3FF". As far as I have seen Ginger interior cars came with Ginger seatbelts. Some with a rigid plastic sleeve over the front belt strap and some without the plastic sleeve. I never seen any coloration for a code on the buildsheet for ones with or without. I see by the serial number in your VIN that you car was built very late in the model year and your trim code looks like it is "AF" for Standard Ginger interior, so it is possible that Ford was out of Ginger seatbelts and switched to black to finish out the production year. They have done things like that in the past. Edit: Looking at the Ford parts manuals for 1972 and 1973, The Front belt assembly part numbers are different for each year, therefore it is possible they ran out of Ginger belts for your interior type, color and body style, OR as you can see from the part number list you have extra length seat belts which only came in Black. Also, Since cougars with were built on the same assembly line using essentially the same unibody, some cougars parts were used since they were interchangeable. So the rigid seat belt sleeve could have been used in the more luxurious Cougar, but again because of low inventory they were thrown into Mustangs in late in the production year. I found that Mustangs with the automatic seatback release actuator, part of the Convenience Group option use the same under seat wire harness as the cougar, so the harness has a plug for power seats, although power seats were only a n option in a cougar and never an option in the mustang.

When using your home inkjet printer, I know the ink will run/bleed if it gets wet. I had moisture get to the paper even after laminating it and ruin the ink. I suggest "fixing" the ink after printing by spraying the paper with a Krylon clear to prevent the ink from bleeding should it get wet and then laminate it. You can buy a spray that is made for fixing the I k, but I found any spray clear works just as well.

The knobs just pull off. I used a flat forked tool and slipped it over the lever and behind the knob and pulled until it popped off.

Tony, I have a different Saginaw pump than your "Canned Ham" version. Mine is a Saginaw P series #19-6969BB-P. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. I have read many conflicting experiences with using Dexron ATF fluid. They say it has a lot of detergents in it and it breaks down faster. I use a Mercon V full synthetic transmission fluid, but others I know use other brands and even ACDelco Power Steering Fluid. Did you bleed the system when you installed it? I have read that using the right fluid AND bleeding the system properly eliminates noise. Also using a synthetic reduces foaming. I saved these instructions...maybe this will help... When to Bleed • After any steering component replacement. • If any part of the power steering system is opened for any reason. Why Bleed • To prevent pump damage. • To ensure proper system operation. • To stop steering system noise. How to Bleed Step 1 Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can cause metal to metal contact and damage. Step 2 Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod. Step 3 Turn steering wheel fully to the left. Step 4 Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off. Step 5 With an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped, no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system. — Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir. Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for leak checks. — On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess of 40 times. Step 6 Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist. — If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above. — Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly). Step 7 Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems) — Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable. — If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to accumulate and purge through the reservoir. Step 8 Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible. Step 9 If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to Step 11. Hydro Boost Systems Only — Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by performing three full presses on the brake pedal. — Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping. — Once foam clears, crank engine until it just catches and shut off. — Discharge Hydro Boost unit with three full presses of the brake pedal. — Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir. — If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled. IMPORTANT Use only clear, name brand, premium, racing synthetic power steering fluid, such as Royal Purple or Red Line. Do not use transmission fluid, as transmission fluid does not contain the same friction inhibitors/additives and tends to breakdown and overheat. Use of transmission fluid will void the warranty. WARNING These Hydro Boost specific instructions must be followed. Failure to follow these procedures can cause your new high volume pump to become damaged or fail completely. Do not turn the steering wheel while performing these procedures. — Repeat above steps. Step 10 Enable engine to start. With engine idling, maintain fluid level. Step 11 Reinstall reservoir cap. Step 12 Return wheels to center. Step 13 Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in Step 2. Step 14 Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions. Step 15 Do not hold steering wheel against the stops. Step 16 Verify the following conditions: — Smooth power assist — Noiseless operation — Proper fluid level — No system leaks — Proper fluid condition — No bubbles, foam, or discoloration Step 17 If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete. Step 18 If any problem exists, turn off engine and see Special Conditions below. Special Conditions If you experience any of the conditions listed below, there is still air in the system. • Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles). • Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off. If this occurs, there is trapped air in the system. • Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose. • Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color) Eliminating Air in the Power Steering System Follow the steps below to eliminate air in the power steering system. Step 1 Turn ignition off. Wait thirty minutes. Recheck hose connections. Repeat start up procedures. If problem still exists, replace or check for possible causes including: — Return hose clamps — Return hose o-ring or flare seat — Pressure hose o-ring or flare seat — All other connections Step 2 Fill system and repeat bleeding procedure for each possible cause. Eliminating Noise in the Power Steering System If you hear a whining or groaning noise originating from the pump after all air is out of the system (if air is not out, see Special Conditions), then do the following: Step 1 Check belts for slippage. Step 2 Mark pulley and make sure it is not slipping on the shaft. Step 3 With the engine running, recheck hoses for possible contact with frame, body, or engine. If no contact is found, cool fluid and depressurize system. Step 4 After cooling fluid, start engine to come up to operating temperature and recheck That A/C Sanden bracket you bought on eBay looks identical to mine from Summit.

On my 1970 Mach 1 351 Cleveland project, I went with Vintage Air, they have a control conversion kit that uses a slider that hook ups to their ECU that you then calibrate by sliding the control levers. Also, they make a York mounting bracket to Sanden compressor adapter. I bet you can use it with any Sanden conversion kit. I then made a top bracket to bolt the tensioner bracket and the P/S cooler to the top of the Sanden compressor. Looks similar to the stock setup. I also installed an aftermarket steering box with a GM style Saginaw P/S pump. mine is from CPP but it is very similar to a Borgeson conversion kit. No one makes a moutning bracket for a Cleveland with A/C and either a CPP or Borgeson P/S kit. So again I had to coble something together. I spent a lot of time lining up the stock crank, water pump pulleys with the Sanden and Saginaw pulleys. If anybody is interested in trying it, I'll be happy to share the details.... ork mounting bracket to Sanden compressor adapter. You can buy it on Summit Racing. I believe this is a 351W P/S steering bracket Made the top bracket to be adjustable forward and back. An aftermarket Saginaw bracket. I used two of them on the front and back of the pump Made my own spacers. Putting all together...

I am interested in the motor mounts. Are they still available? Msg me or email rackerm@hotmail.com

The 73 model year fenders are different from the 71-72 model years because of the bumper redesign. As David said, the fenders are common to all models in a given year. Aside from the fenders, the 73 model year cars have quite few other subtle differences. I know there are posts that have listed them in the past. You can search for them if you want more specifics..

I am building a 351C 408 stroker for my 70 Mach 1 M-code, The original block was already at .030 over. I would like to keep the original block, but I don't want to go to .040 for all the usual reasons. My engine builder says the cylinder walls look good and he thinks the block will clean up at .032. If it does, he will then order a set of .032 Diamond pistons. He tells me Diamond for a nominal price will allow one custom option. If the block was not original, I just assume swap it for a block with a factory bore. Anyone else over bored their block to something other than the common .005, .020, .030, .035 increments?