rackerm

When using your home inkjet printer, I know the ink will run/bleed if it gets wet. I had moisture get to the paper even after laminating it and ruin the ink. I suggest "fixing" the ink after printing by spraying the paper with a Krylon clear to prevent the ink from bleeding should it get wet and then laminate it. You can buy a spray that is made for fixing the I k, but I found any spray clear works just as well.

The knobs just pull off. I used a flat forked tool and slipped it over the lever and behind the knob and pulled until it popped off.

Tony, I have a different Saginaw pump than your "Canned Ham" version. Mine is a Saginaw P series #19-6969BB-P. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. I have read many conflicting experiences with using Dexron ATF fluid. They say it has a lot of detergents in it and it breaks down faster. I use a Mercon V full synthetic transmission fluid, but others I know use other brands and even ACDelco Power Steering Fluid. Did you bleed the system when you installed it? I have read that using the right fluid AND bleeding the system properly eliminates noise. Also using a synthetic redu

On my 1970 Mach 1 351 Cleveland project, I went with Vintage Air, they have a control conversion kit that uses a slider that hook ups to their ECU that you then calibrate by sliding the control levers. Also, they make a York mounting bracket to Sanden compressor adapter. I bet you can use it with any Sanden conversion kit. I then made a top bracket to bolt the tensioner bracket and the P/S cooler to the top of the Sanden compressor. Looks similar to the stock setup. I also installed an aftermarket steering box with a GM style Saginaw P/S pump. mine is from CPP but it is very simila

I am interested in the motor mounts. Are they still available? Msg me or email rackerm@hotmail.com

The 73 model year fenders are different from the 71-72 model years because of the bumper redesign. As David said, the fenders are common to all models in a given year. Aside from the fenders, the 73 model year cars have quite few other subtle differences. I know there are posts that have listed them in the past. You can search for them if you want more specifics..

I am building a 351C 408 stroker for my 70 Mach 1 M-code, The original block was already at .030 over. I would like to keep the original block, but I don't want to go to .040 for all the usual reasons. My engine builder says the cylinder walls look good and he thinks the block will clean up at .032. If it does, he will then order a set of .032 Diamond pistons. He tells me Diamond for a nominal price will allow one custom option. If the block was not original, I just assume swap it for a block with a factory bore. Anyone else over bored their block to something other than the common .005, .020,

I had it originally undercoating by a local shop.. afterwards I used 3m rubberized uncoating to spot spray areas. It matched the original very well.

I believe it was there on all small blocks to provide heat faster to the choke.. I don't know about the big block engines. Here is my 73 351C.

In 73 they were all 14 x6, but there were different bore sizes, since these rim were also on other models, such Mavericks. In 74 they made a similar slot but in 13 inch and with four lug the Mustang II. I experimented with using a 1970s style Ansen sprint aluminum slot wheel with the 73 aluminum wheel center cap and painting the black stripe on it. Ansens Sprints were available in 14 and 15 inch and in various widths 6, 7, 8... You need to drill the center cap mounting holes, paint the black stripe and use the Ansen lug nuts and washer. They looked very stock like. I only had a set o

I assume you have a 4spd and not a 3spd manual or auto. I went with 3.50 gears with an Eaton Limited slip on my 73 351C with a C6 Auto (3spd), 27 inch tires, and a Edelbrock Performer intake and a 4300A 600 cfm big bock square bore, otherwise stock. I liked the response off the line, but the gears were not great for highway driving. I was running about 3,200 rpm at 65 mph. So I decided to swap the 3.50 for 3.00, and as you would expect it is much better on the highway (about 2,600 at 65 mph), but off the line not too great. In my opinion, with a 4spd you have more latitude and 3.50s may b

Here is my 351C 2v with A/C. The harness runs down the drivers side. I don't see the electric choke wire with the square plug on your harness or the plug for the carb curb idle solenoid. The last picture shows the single white female plug for the PRDL light (if I recall correctly) which runs down the firewall and down the trans tunnel. I think your white male plug in your picture is incorrectly part of engine harness.

a friend of mine has a holley sniper efi on his 71 Mach with a Cleveland 4v. I believe he has a Weiland single plain intake with the stock ram air cleaner assembly and it fits perfectly.

I just purchased deluxe vermilion interior seats for my 70 Mach 1 from TMI after getting a few samples from them. I have gotten them yet, but I liked what I have seen of others who have installed interior from TMI.

I have been looking at buying a Ford 1G Tuff Stuff Performance High-Amp Output Factory Cast-Plus Alternator, 140 amp, V-Belt, Natural As Cast, Hybrid Case 7078NJ. I prefer the stock look, but it also comes in chrome and black. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-7078nj