rackerm

Hi, I am interested in buying the set. I tried sending you a message, but your account is not receiving messages. Please msg me to confirm sale. Thanks, Rich

My wife and I are vacationing this week in (not so arid) Arizona. Driving and seeing everything we can as we go thru Scottdale, Sedona, South rim of the grand canyon, Page, and then on to Zion, and finally Las Vegas, before heading home. Have a great trip. Hopefully the weather will be drier next week for you then it was for us. I feel like I brought the east coast weather with me! Just my luck. Good luck with the engine. It looks great. I am sure you can't wait to get back from vacation to get it installed in the car and turn the key for the first time. The waiting is the hardest part.

I am so sorry for your loss. I can't imagine how difficult it has been for you. My thoughts and prayers go out to you and your family. Welcome back.

I installed in my 70 mustang a Tremec TKO 600, quick time Bell housing, Hydraulic clutch, Kevlar clutch, trans cross member all from MDL. I recently measured, ordered and installed a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft also from MDL. The tremec has a 1350 u joint and I have a Yukon 9" center with a 1350 pinion yoke. The install was flawless thanks to MDLs knowledge and support. That said,, the installation and setup of the hydraulic clutch and throw-out bearing was a new experience. It was straight forward,. The hard part was working in a very cramped space to install the master cylinder and linkage. Good luck with your install

Talk to Rocketman on this forum. He converts the factory tach to work with aftermarket systems such as Pertronix, MSD, Holley EFI, etc. https://www.rccinnovations.com/

I use https://koolkatzautoglass.com/ Since opening in 2010, we have provided auto glass to thousands of satisfied customers. We provide the highest quality glass along with personal service. Our knowledgeable sales staff has hands on auto glass experience and is here to assist our customers in selecting the correct part or answering any of their questions. Kool Katz Auto Glass carries a complete inventory of windshields, door glass, rear back glass, vents and more for cars and trucks from 1950’s to the present.

Make sure your horn mounting brackets are bolted tight to clean unpainted factory holes in the RH inner fender apron. The square wire connectors and the horn's blade connectors are not corroded. Just like with headlights, I always suggest taking the load off the original factory circuit and switch. The horn has a 20 amp circuit with 14 gauged wire and carries a heavy load from the fuse box thru the column and back out to the horns. It is frequently a source for weak sounding or intermittent working horn issues. I suggest installing a relay with a fuse either under the dash, or get a weather proof relay and socket and install it our near the horns. Run a 10 or 12 gauged wire from the battery to the fuse (20 amp) and then to the relay (pin 30), and run either new 12 gauge wire or use the last section of the original 14 gauge wire from the relay (pin 87) to reconnect the horns. Connect the original horn 12v source (14 gauge blue/yellow stripe) wire from the horn switch and goes thru the firewall to the relay (pin 86 pos). Connect a 14 gauge black wire relay (pin 85 neg) to a good ground source on the chassis. Locate the relay either near the horns or the battery. Either way you will be running a new 12 or 14 gauged wire from the battery to the horn location. The relay will be located on one end or the other of the wire. In my opinion, having the relay near the horns make the splicing into the 14 gauge blue/yellow stripe wire to connect the relay easier.

That's shocking!!!!

You have come a long with your build and put a lot of love, time and money into it, I think you made the right decision to take a step back as painful as it feels. Once you it's blasted you will moving forward again with a better end result. It a hard decision to make now, but down the road it will be a distance memory and you will be happy you did it. BTW: I had my 70 Mustang Dustless blasted in my driveway. Don't know if you have had it done before. Yes dustless but very messy, be prepared for a lot of cleanup. Make sure they use a rust inhibitor in the solution to minimize flash rust from developing quickly. So long as the car is inside and dry, it will hold up for many weeks and maybe months while you work the body and prep it for paint. Important, the sand gets into every nook and cranny. I spent weeks, blowing sand out and tapping the body with a rubber Malott to vibrate the body and loosen up more sand and blowing it again and again as it dried. Eventually you get it all out.

I have owned four 73 convertibles over the many years, but never had more than two at any one time. I have always loved the body style, especially in a vert. Also owned a 1969 428CJ that I sold 8 years ago. Currently have a 1973 Vert H-code Cleveland and a 1970 Mach 1 M-code Cleveland. My wife has drawn the line and says two is my limit, but I haven't given up on changing her mind about that. I love having both of them. They are very different rides, so depending on my mood that day or the car show I am attending I'll one or the other out and just have fun with it. I have no plans on selling either. I have always loved the 71-73 body style, particularly in a vert. So, needless to say, I have bought and sold and would buy again.

It's been four years since I completed the car. Bought it 1995 never drove it and stored it for nineteen years before spending three years restoring it. I thought I post some of my favorite my glamor shots over the past four years... And this is how it all started....

I have to agree with Idaho Chris. Going with MDL TKO 600 conversion kit on my 70 Mach saved time, money and hair on my head. They have it all worked out. I would have never known to machine the top plates on my TKO 600 to improve tunnel clearance to maintain the right drive line angle from the front of the engine to the input shaft. The stock fan shroud, motor mounts work. Putting my shaker the right height thru the hood, and the drive shaft angle well within limits. Providing enough clearance for my driverside valve cover (any backward tilt the valve cover would have made contact with the brake booster) and helped my shorty Headers clear the abnoxtously large aftermarket steering box. Saving me countless hours of research and potential frustration.

I would call them and get their tech guy on the phone to discuss what you need. I have found them very helpful over the phone.

I see you have a convertible make sure the cables are free and clear of obstruction and are not frayed as they pass thru the seat reinforcement pans.

Where are you located. If near southern New Jersey, Alan at Ford 8 and 9 inch is the man! at https://8and9inchfordrears.com/ I pulled a couple of driveshafts, wholerear axles or center sections with the car on ramps and jack stands. Just put in a new driveshaft in last week in my garage that way. Alan's work below...