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rackerm

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Everything posted by rackerm

  1. Talk to Rocketman on this forum. He converts the factory tach to work with aftermarket systems such as Pertronix, MSD, Holley EFI, etc. https://www.rccinnovations.com/
  2. I use https://koolkatzautoglass.com/ Since opening in 2010, we have provided auto glass to thousands of satisfied customers. We provide the highest quality glass along with personal service. Our knowledgeable sales staff has hands on auto glass experience and is here to assist our customers in selecting the correct part or answering any of their questions. Kool Katz Auto Glass carries a complete inventory of windshields, door glass, rear back glass, vents and more for cars and trucks from 1950’s to the present.
  3. Make sure your horn mounting brackets are bolted tight to clean unpainted factory holes in the RH inner fender apron. The square wire connectors and the horn's blade connectors are not corroded. Just like with headlights, I always suggest taking the load off the original factory circuit and switch. The horn has a 20 amp circuit with 14 gauged wire and carries a heavy load from the fuse box thru the column and back out to the horns. It is frequently a source for weak sounding or intermittent working horn issues. I suggest installing a relay with a fuse either under the dash, or get a weather proof relay and socket and install it our near the horns. Run a 10 or 12 gauged wire from the battery to the fuse (20 amp) and then to the relay (pin 30), and run either new 12 gauge wire or use the last section of the original 14 gauge wire from the relay (pin 87) to reconnect the horns. Connect the original horn 12v source (14 gauge blue/yellow stripe) wire from the horn switch and goes thru the firewall to the relay (pin 86 pos). Connect a 14 gauge black wire relay (pin 85 neg) to a good ground source on the chassis. Locate the relay either near the horns or the battery. Either way you will be running a new 12 or 14 gauged wire from the battery to the horn location. The relay will be located on one end or the other of the wire. In my opinion, having the relay near the horns make the splicing into the 14 gauge blue/yellow stripe wire to connect the relay easier.
  4. You have come a long with your build and put a lot of love, time and money into it, I think you made the right decision to take a step back as painful as it feels. Once you it's blasted you will moving forward again with a better end result. It a hard decision to make now, but down the road it will be a distance memory and you will be happy you did it. BTW: I had my 70 Mustang Dustless blasted in my driveway. Don't know if you have had it done before. Yes dustless but very messy, be prepared for a lot of cleanup. Make sure they use a rust inhibitor in the solution to minimize flash rust from developing quickly. So long as the car is inside and dry, it will hold up for many weeks and maybe months while you work the body and prep it for paint. Important, the sand gets into every nook and cranny. I spent weeks, blowing sand out and tapping the body with a rubber Malott to vibrate the body and loosen up more sand and blowing it again and again as it dried. Eventually you get it all out.
  5. I have owned four 73 convertibles over the many years, but never had more than two at any one time. I have always loved the body style, especially in a vert. Also owned a 1969 428CJ that I sold 8 years ago. Currently have a 1973 Vert H-code Cleveland and a 1970 Mach 1 M-code Cleveland. My wife has drawn the line and says two is my limit, but I haven't given up on changing her mind about that. I love having both of them. They are very different rides, so depending on my mood that day or the car show I am attending I'll one or the other out and just have fun with it. I have no plans on selling either. I have always loved the 71-73 body style, particularly in a vert. So, needless to say, I have bought and sold and would buy again.
  6. It's been four years since I completed the car. Bought it 1995 never drove it and stored it for nineteen years before spending three years restoring it. I thought I post some of my favorite my glamor shots over the past four years... And this is how it all started....
  7. I have to agree with Idaho Chris. Going with MDL TKO 600 conversion kit on my 70 Mach saved time, money and hair on my head. They have it all worked out. I would have never known to machine the top plates on my TKO 600 to improve tunnel clearance to maintain the right drive line angle from the front of the engine to the input shaft. The stock fan shroud, motor mounts work. Putting my shaker the right height thru the hood, and the drive shaft angle well within limits. Providing enough clearance for my driverside valve cover (any backward tilt the valve cover would have made contact with the brake booster) and helped my shorty Headers clear the abnoxtously large aftermarket steering box. Saving me countless hours of research and potential frustration.
  8. I would call them and get their tech guy on the phone to discuss what you need. I have found them very helpful over the phone.
  9. I see you have a convertible make sure the cables are free and clear of obstruction and are not frayed as they pass thru the seat reinforcement pans.
  10. Where are you located. If near southern New Jersey, Alan at Ford 8 and 9 inch is the man! at https://8and9inchfordrears.com/ I pulled a couple of driveshafts, wholerear axles or center sections with the car on ramps and jack stands. Just put in a new driveshaft in last week in my garage that way. Alan's work below...
  11. Its been a while since I posted an update. After completing the restoration, I have been attending various shows, including the Carlisle 50 Year Anniversary meet last June 2021, where the car was one of the featured cars, along with fellow members David Fowler and his one owner heavily optioned '73 Mach 1, John Wanzel and his beautiful Grabber Green '71 Mach 1, and Brian with his near perfect Green '72 Mach 1. Since completing the car, I decided to replace the 3.50 gears with 3.00 to improve highway cruising. highway rpms are lower now with the 3.00 gears and the original 3 speed C6 Automatic, making the highway ride more enjoyable for me.
  12. Spike Morelli I hope you are settling in to your new home in Idaho. I was wondering how the Aussie Cleveland Head build was coming along. I did something similar about five years ago and was following your thread earlier in the year, but I have not seen any updates recently. Anything new? About five years ago while restoring my 73 Convertible H-code, I swapped the 2v open chamber heads with Aussie closed chamber 2v 58cc heads. My Aussie heads are basically stock. I did not do much machine of the heads as you are. Are you opening up the chambers any (to 60cc)? I went with a set of 18cc dished pistons from DSS Racing to help keep the high compression down on the small chamber Aussie heads. I kept the stock crank and installed a somewhat mild cam from Howards Cams. Want a smooth idle and need good vacuum for the A/C, etc. It's been five years, the car is still running great with no issues! I don't drive the car a lot, mostly to shows and cruises when I can. Thanks, Rich DSS Racing 18cc dished pistons. I'm getting about 9.50 CR with the Aussie heads at about 58cc. I used a Howards Cam and Springs - 231031-10 Hydraulic Flat Tappet 1600 to 5000 Camshaft and springs; Lift: .496 / .496, Duration @ .050: 213 / 213, Centerline: 106 Providing fairly smooth idle with good low to mid-range torque. Swapped the 2v intake and carb for a 4v Edelbrock Performer to keep it stock looking. Used a 1973 model year (big block) Ford 4300A 600 cfm square bore Carb. I had the carb and a EGR plate for years and wanted to keep a stock look. The Carb just needed a rebuild. Rebuilt the C6 with a 2000 rpm stall converter (stock was 1800) and a shift kit 3pc roller timing SA gear set Swap the 2.75 open rear with an Eaton Truetrac anti-slip differential, 3.50 gears, but I did not like the 3.50 gears for highway cruising, so I swapped them for a set of 3.00s. Gave up a little off the line, but much better on the highway.
  13. Unfortunately, for me something had to give. I use the space in the quarter panel and drop down behind the spare was a good place to mount the subwoofer. So not much space went to waste.
  14. Well, I was able to install a 17" x 9" rim with a Nitto 45 x 245 size tire in my 70 Mach 1 with a fold down rear seat panel. This spare wheel matches my front wheels and is smaller than my rear wheels. I think the trunk on the 70 might even be smaller than a '71-'73. believe. I did it by relocating the hold down loop. First I sweeeezzzed the wheel in to the trunk where I wanted it. I then placed the hold down bar thru the dust cap hole and marked where to weld the hold down loop to the trunk floor. The space is so tight, that I have to release the latch on the trap door when putting the wheel in, or taking it out, but once in place I can latch trap door again. This process may work for you on you '71 Mach 1. Here is a pic of it....
  15. My experience has taught me that when it comes to learning about your car's history and previous ownership, the best clues are things left behind in or on the car. In my 73 Convertible I found an old bluish carbon copy of a credit card gas receipt. For those too young to remember, back in the day when you paid for gas with a credit card, the attendant would place a multi-part paper receipt over your credit card in a mechanical device and slide a bar over it to make an impression of your card thru the multi-part carbon paper. You would use an ink pen to sign it and the attendant would rip out the second part, a bluish paper carbon copy, and hand it to you. These customer receipts (carbon copies) had the gas station, location, date, and the gas purchaser's name on it. Having found one of these receipts when I disassembled the car, I was able to connect with the person on Facebook, and after explaining that I was not a stalker and that I owned a car that they may have owned in the past, they would talk about when they owned the car. My 70 Mach 1 actually had a P.O.'s vehicle registration from 1981 in the console. I was able to connect again on Facebook. I found that once they are convinced that you are just interested in learning more about your car's history, they will tell you their story. Another breadcrumb trail clue... In New Jersey a car's title has a number labeled "Prefix" on it before the VIN. This number represents the number of times the title has been issued e.g. changed ownership. If your car has never left the State of New Jersey, this number will give you a good idea as to how many owners there have been, including you. Obviously, if the car was transferred to/from another state, the prefix number will not reflect ownership history outside New Jersey, in this case. This prefix may also be incremented for other reasons, but I am not sure about that. From what I can see Delaware does not have a prefix. I don't know about other states.
  16. I thought the lens were symmetrical and not left and right. Thanks Geoff for sharing your expertise on the topic. I don't think these are one offs, but where they came from and who made them remains a mystery.
  17. Having seen these taillights up close and in person, I can tell you the lens is one piece. I am sure these lens are not modified factory/repros that had the clear reverse lens part cut out and replaced with a red lens. I have searched thru every 17-73 Taillight picture I can find and not one has this lens. Whatever lens these are, the change from the factory lens to these was done quite some time ago.
  18. No further explanation needed. 1787022407_SoyouthoughtyouhadabaddayworkingonyourMustang.webm
  19. Thanks all for the feedback. I think the aftermarket led taillight housing is the most likely answer. Good call Geoff! I do recall him saying he has led bulbs in the taillights. The cars owner was not a DIY guy, so I am sure he had some else do it and therefore no clue.
  20. I was at a car show this weekend and saw this 73 vert. Nice car with nice options. Talking to the owner he did not have Marti Report and the door tag indicated it was a H code, fmx, 5H color, and a Washington DC DSO code. Anyway looking at the taillights I noticed the lens did not have the clear square section in the middle lens for the backup light. The backup lights were located in the valance like they were in earlier model years. The lens had no SAE or ford markings. I have never seen 71-73 taillights, aftermarket or otherwise, without the backup lens in them. The DSO code did not indicate it was an export. The cars owner had no clue. I was thinking it was done by a PO to ship the car oversees and meet the regulations in that country? Anyone, seen taillights and backup lights on a 71-73 like this before and can shed light on this? Thanks
  21. I have not used one, but I have read that a Power Steering Flow Fitting Control Valve can help by increasing flow. As I understand it, the more flow your steering system receives the easier it will be to turn the wheels, but will decrease feel. Having less flow will put feel and stability back in the steering system, but decrease assist.
  22. Glad to hear that you solved the power steering problem. Should make driving it more enjoyable from now on.
  23. Nice build. Love the Grabber Blue. I grew up not too far from the dealership where your car was originally delivered to on Rt35 in Manasquan NJ. Good luck with it.
  24. My bumper is 6 1/2 inches out from the grill at the center line. What helps to reduce the width/size of the bumper in appearance is the low gloss black filler section between the grill and the bumper. The line between the car color and the low gloss black is imbedded in the contour of the bumper itself.
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