Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Grandmas73

  1. It's been a while but I finally got it. Home Depot of all places had a sale I could not pass on. While the 7k lb ver might be overkill now I am interested in a truck some day. Here's a picture with wife's car, I'm gonna put the block at the torque boxes and make the block for the arms.
  2. Been away for a while, new site looks great and yes, BIG FAN OF DARK MODE!!
  3. I just picked up the 73 wiring book. I see the circuit that your referring to, connector C-414 on page #4. This time when I tested the circuit I used a test bulb rather than than a meter to read the wire. When I turned the key on the test light lit and the buzzer, for the first time in years, went off. Not the place to pick up switched batt for the Pertronix. Time to run some wire. Thanks for your help.
  4. Are those blocks, put between the control arm and the frame to prevent full extension when hanging free? Similar to this (found at Autorestomod.com)
  5. Wow, step away for two months and we got quite the two post vs four post debate going on here I don't have the height nor will I, and that's why I'm looking at the Quickjack like in the brochure I added. They seem to want to use grooved rubber blocks on the pinch weld along the rockers, or I could use blocks at the torque boxes as has been suggested by some(probably the way I'll go). Thanks for the many replies.
  6. Thanks midlife. That connector is under the hood, what's the seat belt reminder hooking up to out there? I tried looking on the shop man but the CD looks like a 10th gen copy, hard to see detail.
  7. Hi all, ( hope I’m in the right place) I’m hoping someone can help me identify what this connector is for. This is on my 73 vert 302 base model. I’ve installed a Pertronix and was looking for switched hot with no dropout on crank, this fits the bill but I would like to know what option it’s for that I don’t have. The green is ignition hot and the brn or red with white trace is at ground. It appears to be bundled in the cable passing through the firewall between the fender and the booster. Thanks for any and all help. (First mobile post, don’t know why they rotated🤔
  8. Hi all, I'm looking at the two piece lift from Quickjack or Bendpac (same I think). When ordering you can spec solid lift blocks that I could use at the torque boxes or slotted blocks to be used on the rocker pinch weld. Given the choice, what's the preferred lifting point? BTW This is for a 73 vert, I always lift with doors closed and top up. Stiff as I can keep her. I'm leaning towards solid blocks on the torque boxes but I would like some experienced thoughts on this. Thanks
  9. So after pokin around the net I can find NO info on this bphimheo.com. And when I put the elbow in the cart and get a shipping quote of $25 + $15 for the part + unknown seller.... I'll be hittin ebay since the car runs well with the current vacuum setup and I'd like to keep the vac sw in the mix. Thank you all again for your input.
  10. Thanks for the info and the links secluff (putting P/Ns in book), this was my grandmothers 50k original 73 vert so nobody has messed with it. I had found that ebay listing, but lost it. I never saw bphimheo before, too good to be tru? :angel: I will let all know if I try them.
  11. Has anyone been able to find these ( it lives to the left of the dizzy) Repro, NOS, used? I can't find one, had a hole in it, JB'ed it and pushed the hose on further. Thanks in advance.
  12. This is how I did mine. I didn't want to cut into my new center bezel so i mounted the gauges behind it, no cutting. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-center-gauges?highlight=Center+gauges Nice job. Thanks for posting the link, that's going to help me alot when I get to ordering the panel.
  13. Those Classic Instruments look nice, Moal Bomber right? Did you get the whole set or can you buy them individually? And is that a ACP panel? looks good. Thanks for sharing.
  14. Hey all, I am looking to add gauges to my 73 vert, with a 302, so I started looking at the center dash trim panel/bezel with gauge holes from ACP. I am curious about the fit and finish and if anyone else has successfully added gauges with that panel? If so, anything to look out for? Did it go smoothly? Any input would be greatly appreciated. BTW, these are the gauges I picked up, of course I added green LEDs as the incandescents were too dim. These and a set from BOSCH were the only gauges I could find that sweep the bottom of the dial similar to the stock gauge, fairly accurate too.
  15. Thanks, I pulled the trigger and got the U.S. Radiator, L6/302 size with 4 rows from Classic Ind. $407 total. Now I don't need a new shroud ::thumb::
  16. We're neighbors! I'm on the south shore, Nassau/Suffolk border. I would be interested in the center gauge cluster with panel, maybe the main cluster as well. Never jumped in like this, let me know what's next. Thanks. Edit, just realized how long the thread is and where I am on it LOL
  17. Sorry I took so long, here she is.
  18. Hi all, I'm hoping to crowdsource an opinion on radiator brands for my 73 302cid no a/c. Mine welcomed spring by "springing" a leak I have been looking at OEM style radiators, I really don't want to try painting aluminium and modifying brackets if I can avoid it. I have narrowed the list down to Thermal Solutions Mfg or U.S. Radiator. I can get a U.S. Radiator through Classic Ind for less than a similarly sized TSM radiator offered by NPD, which according to the product descriptions they are same core size and row count. So, does anyone have first hand experience with either manufacture? Most reviews that I have seen really only speak to the vender and not the manufacturer. U.S. Radiator does offer the L6/V8 radiator that was stock in my car, meaning no new $100+ shroud ::thumb:: But are they good? :huh: Thanks for any and all help :thankyouyellow:
  19. Nice, pictures worth a thousand words. I'll hold off on the new shroud for now.
  20. Thanks Don, All the more reason to stick with copper/brass!
  21. WOW, that article really shed some light on cop V alum. Great links, bookmarked for sure. :thankyouyellow:
  22. Thanks Jay, I'll pick one up when I choose a radiator, I do appreciate it though.
  23. You have the radiator that was only used on on the std cooling 250-6 and 302 engines. It's going to be hard to find one of those as a replacement, seems everything I looked at is the 26" core model for the HD, A/C & Extra cooling packages. NPD has the 22", but they are $500. Funny thing is, I have that exact radiator in my 71, came out of a 6 cyl '73 convertible I parted out. IMO, you are probably better off by springing for the larger radiator and new shroud. For the 26" radiator, you'll need to move the lower brackets, and the upper will be obvious when installed. Fan will clear the new shroud without issue. Might want to replace the upper and lower hoses while you're at it. Thanks , that's what I thought . Bigger radiator not a bad thing. But the confirmation on what I have and how to fit the new is just what i needed. Time to grab the check book :thankyouyellow: Does anyone say checkbook any more ? :huh:
  24. Thanks, I am trying to stay with the stock look. I'll Keep that in my back pocket just in case .
  25. Good evening all, I could use a hand making sure I get myself the right parts for a radiator replacement. I have an all stock 73 Mustang, 302 2v with auto trans and without a/c. I currently have a leaking radiator, stamped p/n D3ZE NA 3EC. Rough core dimensions...22"W x 17 3/4"H overall... 27 3/4"W x 19 1/4"H (I believe this is a 2 row/core radiator) The shroud has FoMoCo D00E-8146-B cast into it. The mounting brackets, top and bottom, are bolted to the inner nuts in the radiator support. (Can post pic if needed) All of the radiators that I find for my car, that are said to be to ford spec, have larger dimensions than what I have installed. Most of the descriptions are like this... "This 3-row radiator fits 302 w/ A/C or H/D cooling, 351, & 429. Dimensions: Core: 26" W x 18" H x 1-7/8" D Overall: 32" W x 19"H x 3-3/8" D 1-1/2" passenger side upper inlet 1-1/2" driver side lower outlet." The shrouds that I see for sale all seem to replace D1ZZ-8146. The questions... Will a replacement radiator, like in the example, fit by moving my brackets to the outer mounting holes? If so, will my old shroud fit or do I need the one listed as replacing D1ZZ-8146? Is there anything that I'm overlooking? I may need a fan spacer, I have room between the core and blade but I don't know how the blade will sit in the new shroud. Opinions on best place to get what I need for this job. I am looking at NPD or West Coast Classic Cougar right now. Thanks for listening, fortunately the leak is not so bad that I can't drive it locally, but I know that sooner is better. Thanks, Bryan
  • Create New...