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ceheler

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ceheler last won the day on January 4 2015

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang
    351C 4V - slightly modified
    C-6
    9" Rear factory 3:00 gears

Location

  • Location
    Durham, Ca
  • Region
    West

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Undisclosed

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  1. Thanks everyone for the quick replies. I am just curious and want to get the best performance possible. Long story longer the car used to have a 770 and gave me nothing but problems and i picked this 670 up cheaply enough and rebuilt it and it ran ok but was certainly lean and didn't pull as hard as the messed up 770 that was on it. Ill put some mileage on it and read them again. 72H code thank a whole lot im going to re read all of that when i get some slow time in the shop today. The only thing it does consistently is if i accelerate semi hard not WOT just a hard acceleration then roll out of it rather than just dropping the pedal back it almost kind of hiccups or shudders a little bit then goes back to normal operation. I shouldn't complain heck the thing drives good and pulls as hard as a 3.00 : 1 rear end car pulls. Also i did use the Mr.Gasket timing springs but only installed one of them and put in a limit pin bushing to get the timing set. It is currently 16 initial with 36 total all in centrifugal no vac advance hooked up. full advance in the 2600-2800 range. and i run premium with a little marvel and haven't had it ping yet. Ill report back in a few days after i get some miles on these plugs
  2. Alright all you fine folks im hoping one of you knowledgeable people can point out the obvious for me. Today i finally got to tuning my Holley 670 for my car. Its a 351C 4-V with a little pocket work on the quuence heads with a lunatic mild cam (https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1621&gid=287) cam specs. edlebrock performer manifold hooker headers comp cams roller rockers electric fan conversion whole engine hs only about 15k since build maybe 20k hopefully i didnt forget something if i did ask me and i will do what i can. Problem: i replaced to plugs to aid in being able to read new ones vs old ones. Upon removing them i noticed a few were cleaner than others figured hey whatever. I put the new ones in after setting float levels and dialing in the idle circuit with a vac gauge and setting idle. Put in 70's from the factory 68s knowing that it was running lean already. Drove down the road and cruised it at 2500 for a couple mins then shut it off and pulled into an orchard (luxury of living in the country) and pulled cyl 1 and it looked just like i had put it in. pulled number two and it looked lean. Threw in some 72's and repeated and pulled #1 and again looked brand spankin new not lean i mean like it was shielded entirely from everything in the cylinder. Pulled #2 and it looked a little closer but still lean. put in 74's and ran down to the shop. Let it cool down a bit and pulled the whole bank out and 2 and 3 looked PERFECT and 1 and 4 look completely new. like i just took them out of the box. Any thoughts? The thing runs great idles good pulls good
  3. Welcome from Northern California! Sounds like a keeper glad to see another one is being made right again!
  4. Here are the pictures I promised for the Factory Intake Manifold it is a D0AE-9425-L if the picture is unclear. Came off of a 1971 M-code replaced with an aluminum manifold.
  5. Manifolds and Carb sold all else still available. Will work on getting the intake picures up
  6. I was 21 when i bought my 71 M code. Dad bought it in 1971 sold it when i was 14 i bought it from the gentleman my dad sold it to. It will never leave the family again
  7. I once replied that i was a parts manager. That has changed our store bought a repair shop and i have moved into that as the shop supervisor. We are a full service shop just me and one other guy and we do everything from an 289 rebuild im doing for a customers 65 mercury comet to farm tractors
  8. Also i am a wheeling and dealing kinda guy and there are lots of parts i could use so if you have potential trades im up for that as well. Either performance parts for my car or anything gun related particularly a set of 3.50-4.11 gears for a 9" or anything mentioned worse i can say is no thank you shroud sold!
  9. I apologize for my absence over the last few months have been gone dong pre-deployment training and taking all the active orders i can get. I am back for a while and have more parts to add to the list of parts for sale. All of the parts listed above are still available as well as a stock 4V intake manifold, a distributor with a pertronix in it ( i believe it has the wrong vacuum advance unit on it and went to a duraspark system) as well as a factory 4v camshaft with about 500 miles on it. I will try to get pictures posted tomorrow after work. and PLEASE if my price is out of your range give me a counter offer im holding onto these parts because i want them to be used not scrapped.
  10. http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/3-8-24-male-to-1-2-20-female-adapter-is-13813 that is the only one i can find and i got the specifications off of this page http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/fittings/automotive-fittings/male-female-adapters
  11. Glad i can help. that one will work great by the way scratch that that one wont work i just looked at it again
  12. Brake tubing is measured by the diameter of the tubing itself. so a 3/16" brake line would be 3/16" on the outside dimension of the tubing. The nut that slides over the tubing would need to have threads larger than the outside dimension of the tubing because the tubing runs through the nut. So the "thread size" will be larger because it is the dimension of the nut that actually threads into the brake component (Master cylinder, wheel cylinder, caliper, etc.) The standard threads to tubing size is as follows Tubing | Thread Size 1/8................5/16 - 28 3/16...............3/8 - 24 1/4.................7/16 - 24 5/16................1/2 - 20 3/8..................5/8 - 18 7/16................11/16 - 18 1/2..................3/4 - 18 5/8...................7/8 - 18 3/4...................1 1/16 - 16 7/8...................1 3/16 - 16 1......................1 5/16 - 16 So you needing to go from 3/8" to 1/2" threads the only way Napa can do it is with two adapters our Weatherhead supplier doesn't make a one piece connector. the two you would have to use are part numbers 7828 and 7917. I'm not saying its not made all i can say is that napa can only do it in 2 pieces
  13. M2153 is my NAPA part number that interchanges from that Dorman number which has 3/8 - 24 Female thread as one inlet and 7/16 - 24 female thread on the other which translate to 3/16 and 1/4 inverted flair fittings respectively. the adapters i listed one goes from 3/16 to 1/4 the other goes from 1/4 to 5/16 which is 1/2 - 20 threads and those are bell reducer fittings meaning the go from a smaller male tread size to a larger female thread size. does that answer your questions by chance if not please throw some more at me ill see what i can do!
  14. I work at a napa and we have a large selection of brake adapter fittings and what i came up with is 2 adapters. One going for 3/16 inverted seat (3/8 - 24) to 1/4 inverted seat (7/16 - 24) which is napa part # 7828 and the other goes from 1/4 to 5/16 inverted seat (1/2 - 20) and the part number for that is a Napa # 7917. Please let me know if you need some other assistance i can pull out a book during some down time, hope that helps!
  15. Looked around to see if others had passed on the understanding or had run into this issue and didn't find anything and figured i would put this in a thread so that if others run into the issue they may search and find it. I had a friend over and we were cleaning the wiring up under the hood which is quite a task for our cars in my opinion. We eliminated the voltage regulator by putting in a single wire alternator and relocated the battery tender behind the passenger headlight out of sight and moved the MSD next to the wiper fluid reservoir and moved the starter solenoid. In the process we also cleaned up the MSD 6AL wiring. My friend that was helping took the electric choke wire and hooked it up to the (+) side of the coil because this is how his old nova was set up. I will say it looks a lot cleaner after lots of mechanic fluid had been drank it was late so we decided to call it a night. The next day i went out to fire it up and check the alternator for voltage and regulator response and the car wouldnt start. It cranked strong but no go. So i went through the typical troubleshooting and found i had no spark out of the coil. No big deal i pulled one off of my shelf and put it on. Still no start. Checked the MSD box all as well. Put the old coil on and left the wire for the choke off and it started right up. My guess is that the choke was drawing enough amperage that the coils primary winding wasn't getting enough to produce a good spark. So for those who run into the issue later on down the road at least in my case, (MSD 6AL, Pertronix ignitor II, and pertronix coil, holly street avenger 770 electric choke) DO NOT hook the electric choke to the coil if you want it to run. Looks good but its a big ol' no go on the whole running and driving thing. Decided I'm going to get an EZ wiring kit anyways to clean it up 165 bucks for painless quality. ( http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html ) put one on a friends jeep easy install and has its own choke wire :D
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