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Omie01

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Omie01 last won the day on October 7 2017

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  • My Car
    1972 H code fastback Boss 351 clone

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    Minnesota, USA

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  1. Unfortunately I'm sure the box has to come out. The clips have to be taken off a certain way to prevent chipping or cracking of the housing. I made this mistake, and found that finding a good used original box is very difficult and expensive. Usually the boxes have been broken by previous owners trying to service them, or the drain hole nipple is broken or the mounting tabs are broken or cracked. This is something you want to be careful with. If you don't care about originality the aftermarket boxes are actually decent enough. But like Kilgon said, the back clips will be very hard to access. Good luck!!
  2. Sounds great!! I love that you still have the original interior intact!! So many people with resto mods these days, I like seeing original cars.
  3. There is a lot of metal there that will have to be replaced. You will have that car disassembled so far that you will be able to sand/ wire wheel inside frame rails, probably looking at full floor, cowl, maybe even some rocker panel repair. At that point you will be accessing most of the cars hidden places, so I wouldn't pay to have everything stripped that you are going to replace. Also for a project that extensive, you will want to make sure you brace everything or Jig the car. I live in Minnesota so I see this kind of rust all the time, I also had a 1973 that looked really clean until I dug into it. The front frame rails above the upper control arms were rotted out where that little shelf in there is, the tail light panel and trunk were toast, and every engine compartment apron had rust where yours does. Also my cowl extensions and cowl hat area was rusted out too. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to let you know there is always more rust than you see initially. Good Luck!! These cars are worth saving!!
  4. I would stay away from the super cheap foam. I can say that the TMI OEM replacement fit really good, and the foam is a bit more dense so the upholstery comes out looking nice and tight. Good luck.
  5. You will need headlight doors, they cover the chrome rings that hold in the headlight. They are a dark grey and made of the same pot metal as the body parts. (zinc whatever pot metal). Mine are painted black to match the grille. I did have a bent one and had to find a different used one. They are held in with a small tang on the bottom and a single phillips screw on top. The middle of the grille is screwed to the hood latch upright bracket via 2 phillips screws as well. Good luck!!
  6. Local auto parts stores will sometimes have Ford pin kits in their help section. Thats where I got mine. The pins were a little long, but the bushings and pins were the right size.
  7. I just mean the impulse of the pistons and crank spinning, you would have many other problems if your crankcase pressure was abnormal.
  8. I remember on my build with an aftermarket pan, the seals that went over the main caps were not a great fit, I was a bit worried if they would seal as they seemed a little big. I used Black RTV somewhat liberally in all the corners and carefully tightened with a 1/4" ratchet as well. Usually when a rear main leaks, it runs out because of crankcase pressure. I too vote that it is a pan gasket problem. Hopefully a little snug is all it needs. Good luck!!
  9. Even with increased HP, bigger carb, and sitting around a lot, My car still fires up with just a couple pumps every time with mechanical pump as well. My ignition guy put it simply one time. Even these cars were good reliable daily drivers once upon a time, so most of the parts they came with will work fine. Good luck!
  10. Its not as prevalent at high RPM, but gets worse as RPM's slow down, so I agree, a bearing outside of the engine on an accessory, or one thing you could check is the fuel pump arm/cam eccentric. I had a fuel pump once the the arm friction pad fell off and made a strange noise. Just something easy to check. Good luck! The rest of the car looks great!
  11. Timachone is right, the pedestals are a pot metal, they DO crack when trying to bend them back. The re-pop pedestals are nice, I have a pair waiting for my resto. Good luck finding an original lid, but that IS the way to go. But a re-pop may work as well, but I would relocate the spoiler while you are at it.
  12. I have the Addco bar that bolts to the u-bolts on the leaf spring in my car and it makes a BIG difference!! My car handles Exceptionally well!! Very tight in corners!!! I also have upgraded suspension all the way around, mostly Global West tubular stuff, and Del-a-lum bushings in the leafs. A little stiff maybe, but well worth it for the handling!! In case you're curious, I have roller spring perches in front, GW lower control arm struts that articulate on a ball socket, and an Addco 1 1/8" front sway bar. And Koni Gas-a-just all the way around. And quick ratio steering to top it off. Love driving my car. this set-up works for me. Good luck!
  13. I have a set of the SD panels. I did get them to fit ok, but the top line did not match up with the package tray trim, and there is no way to lower them. The plastic is brittle, I took them out and refurbished my originals because they just fit better, but since then I have moved the SD pieces around in storage and little edges and bits keep getting breaking off. They do work in a pinch, but they are not great. You will have to cut out seat belt holes and ash tray holes if you want them, and the lower bolt brackets are plastic not steel. Good luck!
  14. I never saw any clips on mine, just holes in the sheet metal where the trim screws to. Mine is tight with just the screws. Good luck!
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