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Everything posted by Omie01

  1. Also make sure that your steering wheel nut is not grounding out on any of the copper, this is what I ran into. The peaks of the hex just touched the copper enough to pop my fuses. Had to grind a little off the nut.
  2. The front holes are under the transmission mount supports, you can't see them from under the car, I sharpened some coat hangar wire and heated it up and poked it through from the bottom to locate the holes through the new carpet, The front 2, I installed the first six screws loosely, then used a very fine wire through the console holes to find the front screw holes, and carefully ran a heated wire through the carpet to get the screws in without spooling up the carpet. It's tricky, but do-able. Good luck!!
  3. I will be going to stock on my next 73 and I will be running manifolds for quiet operation and ease of install for factory exhaust. My 71 has headers and it gets very warm under the hood!
  4. I used a Lunati Voodoo roller cam with Lunati link bar lifters and they are working great. Just remember to get a steel distributor gear and steel cam plate. Do not use original iron gear!
  5. It's just the way it looks, (bad camera). It is actually a very nice looking snap in sleeve. I do understand what you are saying. I have a good ignition/dizzy guy that set up my last one. I guess I will take it to him and have him go through it. Thanks for the input!
  6. Kind of a continuation of this thread. I bought this dizzy off of flea bay because of price and condition. It is supposed to be for a 1970 351C so I thought it would have the 10L/13L slots. It is a Ford reman dizzy, and the parts sure look good but it has the 13L/15L slots, and it is set to the 13L slot but the arm does have a plastic bushing inserted over it. Does this mean it was altered by Ford for the 20 degrees of advance instead of the 26 degrees? If anybody knows about this please let me know. Thanks!!
  7. I have a 3 spoke ginger steering wheel. The center pad is lackluster and I want to replace it. The re-pops only come in black. Should I dye or paint the re-pop? Which color? They have a medium and dark ginger soft plastics paint at NPD. Which color is the right one for a ginger interior? Any Help would be greatly appreciated!!
  8. For the washer transmission seals, I just made new ones by using paper gasket material joined to protecto-wrap for around house windows. put the sticky side of the protecto-wrap against the paper gasket material and then cut to size of the wiper base. Make sure to put the paper gasket side up so it looks nice. The original seals had a tarry/sticky substance with some kind of cloth and I have never seen a repop. Good Luck!!
  9. This is my Third 71-73, and gonna have 2 more in the stall at some point. Buying another 73 from my father, and he is leaving his other 73 to me when he can't drive it anymore. So for sure YES. Gonna be in my life for a long time! PS: Also had a 67 coupe for a little while in the 90's.
  10. Well I splurged on a pair of these because one of the guys involved lives very near to me. And because out of 3 cars in the family they all have issues or cracks on these. Every time I find someone who has some they are usually broken and they still want a lot of $$ for them. These are also beefed up on one edge to make them stronger, and the plastic is not 50 years old. My first impression is how beefy they are. The texture is spot on and very crisp. I held one up to an old one in my car and it looks like it will be a perfect fit. Unfortunately I won't be installing them until I decide which car is getting restored first. I will post a few pics so you can see them. Feel free to ask me any questions about them, I will try to answer the best I can.
  11. I did find a good replacement for this piece. Found these in Mcmaster-Carr catalog. The only problem is I had to buy 50 of them. If anybody is interested in replacing theirs let me know. I am willing to part with the rest of them. I will ask $5 for 3 pcs. Just to cover postage stamp, envelope and time. I'm offering 3 in case one gets mucked up trying to install.
  12. The originals are not plastic. I have a set from NPD and they are a very close replacement for originals, and they are metal. The set I have match up to the original spoiler. Good luck!!
  13. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement piece for this part? See pic. Rubber insulator for interior door handle actuator. Thanks!!
  14. I would love to do that. Let me know when its ready to roll, we can set up a meet time and place!!!
  15. I have run both the Air-Gap and the BT, I lost a considerable amount of power swapping to the BT. The Air-Gap pulls way harder. I will say though that I port matched the Air Gap as close to the 4V size as I could. Now this could be the cam profile being better suited to the AG. The other problem I had with the BT was float bowl heat. I had warm engine start issues. I had to install a phenolic spacer to soak up some heat. Just my experience. I am running 4v CC heads and a lunati voodoo roller cam set. Good luck!!
  16. I am interested in the grille lights wrapped in plastic. Tried to PM you and it says you can't receive messages. Please PM me with pricing nd availability. Thanks.
  17. Blaine, MN. Where are you? Nevermind, just saw you are in Zimmerman. We are not that far away. We should meet up sometime.
  18. I have been looking at different grilles, some claim to be NOS, others are Goodmark, (lots of $$$) and average catalog ones, but I have heard some horror stories about the cheap catalog ones. Anybody want to share their experiences with a new 73 grille? Thanks!!
  19. Unfortunately I'm sure the box has to come out. The clips have to be taken off a certain way to prevent chipping or cracking of the housing. I made this mistake, and found that finding a good used original box is very difficult and expensive. Usually the boxes have been broken by previous owners trying to service them, or the drain hole nipple is broken or the mounting tabs are broken or cracked. This is something you want to be careful with. If you don't care about originality the aftermarket boxes are actually decent enough. But like Kilgon said, the back clips will be very hard to access. Good luck!!
  20. Sounds great!! I love that you still have the original interior intact!! So many people with resto mods these days, I like seeing original cars.
  21. There is a lot of metal there that will have to be replaced. You will have that car disassembled so far that you will be able to sand/ wire wheel inside frame rails, probably looking at full floor, cowl, maybe even some rocker panel repair. At that point you will be accessing most of the cars hidden places, so I wouldn't pay to have everything stripped that you are going to replace. Also for a project that extensive, you will want to make sure you brace everything or Jig the car. I live in Minnesota so I see this kind of rust all the time, I also had a 1973 that looked really clean until I dug into it. The front frame rails above the upper control arms were rotted out where that little shelf in there is, the tail light panel and trunk were toast, and every engine compartment apron had rust where yours does. Also my cowl extensions and cowl hat area was rusted out too. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to let you know there is always more rust than you see initially. Good Luck!! These cars are worth saving!!
  22. I would stay away from the super cheap foam. I can say that the TMI OEM replacement fit really good, and the foam is a bit more dense so the upholstery comes out looking nice and tight. Good luck.
  23. You will need headlight doors, they cover the chrome rings that hold in the headlight. They are a dark grey and made of the same pot metal as the body parts. (zinc whatever pot metal). Mine are painted black to match the grille. I did have a bent one and had to find a different used one. They are held in with a small tang on the bottom and a single phillips screw on top. The middle of the grille is screwed to the hood latch upright bracket via 2 phillips screws as well. Good luck!!
  24. Local auto parts stores will sometimes have Ford pin kits in their help section. Thats where I got mine. The pins were a little long, but the bushings and pins were the right size.
  25. I just mean the impulse of the pistons and crank spinning, you would have many other problems if your crankcase pressure was abnormal.
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