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Posts posted by Omie01

  1. Time is my worst enemy, never enough of it. That being said, I would like to start stripping body panels for repaint, BUT, I can not do everything in a weekend or steadily at all. If I strip my panels to bare metal what can I spray on them that will seal them for long term storage. I would also like this to be a workable layer once I can get to it. All opinions welcome. Thank You!!

  2. The front holes are under the transmission mount supports, you can't see them from under the car, I sharpened some coat hangar wire and heated it up and poked it through from the bottom to locate the holes through the new carpet, The front 2, I installed the first six screws loosely, then used a very fine wire through the console holes to find the front screw holes, and carefully ran a heated wire through the carpet to get the screws in without spooling up the carpet. It's tricky, but do-able. Good luck!! 

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  3. Kind of a continuation of this thread. I bought this dizzy off of flea bay because of price and condition. It is supposed to be for a 1970 351C so I thought it would have the 10L/13L slots. It is a Ford reman dizzy, and the parts sure look good but it has the 13L/15L slots, and it is set to the 13L slot but the arm does have a plastic bushing inserted over it. Does this mean it was altered by Ford for the 20 degrees of advance instead of the 26 degrees? If anybody knows about this please let me know. Thanks!!



  4. For the washer transmission seals, I just made new ones by using paper gasket material joined to protecto-wrap for around house windows. put the sticky side of the protecto-wrap against the paper gasket material and then cut to size of the wiper base. Make sure to put the paper gasket side up so it looks nice. The original seals had a tarry/sticky substance with some kind of cloth and I have never seen a repop. Good Luck!!

  5. This is my Third 71-73, and gonna have 2 more in the stall at some point. Buying another 73 from my father, and he is leaving his other 73 to me when he can't drive it anymore. So for sure YES. Gonna be in my life for a long time! PS: Also had a 67 coupe for a little while in the 90's. 

  6. I did find a good replacement for this piece. Found these in Mcmaster-Carr catalog. The only problem is I had to buy 50 of them. If anybody is interested in replacing theirs let me know. I am willing to part with the rest of them. I will ask $5 for 3 pcs. Just to cover postage stamp, envelope and time. I'm offering 3 in case one gets mucked up trying to install.



  7. I have run both the Air-Gap and the BT, I lost a considerable amount of power swapping to the BT. The Air-Gap pulls way harder. I will say though that I port matched the Air Gap as close to the 4V size as I could. Now this could be the cam profile being better suited to the AG. The other problem I had with the BT was float bowl heat. I had warm engine start issues. I had to install a phenolic spacer to soak up some heat. Just my experience. I am running 4v CC heads and a lunati voodoo roller cam set. Good luck!!

  8. I have been looking at different grilles, some claim to be NOS, others are Goodmark, (lots of $$$) and average catalog ones, but I have heard some horror stories about the cheap catalog ones. Anybody want to share their experiences with a new 73 grille? Thanks!!

  9. Unfortunately I'm sure the box has to come out. The clips have to be taken off a certain way to prevent chipping or cracking of the housing. I made this mistake, and found that finding a good used original box is very difficult and expensive. Usually the boxes have been broken by previous owners trying to service them, or the drain hole nipple is broken or the mounting tabs are broken or cracked. This is something you want to be careful with. If you don't care about originality the aftermarket boxes are actually decent enough. But like Kilgon said, the back clips will be very hard to access. Good luck!!

  10. There is a lot of metal there that will have to be replaced. You will have that car disassembled so far that you will be able to sand/ wire wheel inside frame rails, probably looking at full floor, cowl, maybe even some rocker panel repair. At that point you will be accessing most of the cars hidden places, so I wouldn't pay to have everything stripped that you are going to replace. Also for a project that extensive, you will want to make sure you brace everything or Jig the car. I live in Minnesota so I see this kind of rust all the time, I also had a 1973 that looked really clean until I dug into it. The front frame rails above the upper control arms were rotted out where that little shelf in there is, the tail light panel and trunk were toast, and every engine compartment apron had rust where yours does. Also my cowl extensions and cowl hat area was rusted out too. I'm not trying to scare you, just trying to let you know there is always more rust than you see initially. Good Luck!! These cars are worth saving!!

  11. You will need headlight doors, they cover the chrome rings that hold in the headlight. They are a dark grey and made of the same pot metal as the body parts. (zinc whatever pot metal). Mine are painted black to match the grille. I did have a bent one and had to find a different used one. They are held in with a small tang on the bottom and a single phillips screw on top. The middle of the grille is screwed to the hood latch upright bracket via 2 phillips screws as well. Good luck!!

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