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Everything posted by Omie01

  1. Does anybody know which bushings I need to buy for rebuilding our idler arms? Any tips on doing so? I do own a hydraulic press. Thanks!!
  2. Thanks for the info!! Thats the same color as the car I might buy. Wasn't sure if I liked it, but it is growing on me.
  3. I might be buying my fathers 1973 Mach 1 q code, and one of the first things that jump out at me is the grille. It looks terrible and has several cracks. I am looking into replacing it but have seen some reviews that the chrome doesn't line up well and the little plastic clips don't hold the chrome well. Does anybody have experience with a replacement 73 grille and chrome project? I bought my 71 grill complete with chrome so I didn't have to worry about it. Thanks!!
  4. Anybody ever buy a rebuilt proportioning valve on Ebay? Says "KH rebuilt" like I am supposed to know what that means. Anybody have any experience with these? There are many replacements out there but some are distribution blocks and others claim to be proportioning valves. I bought one a couple years ago and had to replace the copper washer on top because it leaked right out of the package. I also rebuilt my original first and it leaked everywhere. So I am trying to find a better alternative. Thanks! PS: I only want a stock replacement for ease of install, I don't want to install some aftermarket set-up and reroute brake lines and such.
  5. Can anybody tell me what all parts get painted slop grey under the hood? Or anywhere else. Thanks!
  6. I found a multi-pack of the sheet metal speed nuts at local auto parts store and it had the right size to bite the studs. And I drilled out the holes that take the screws so the factory screws would actually fit them, then I used wax on the screw threads so they went in easier. If you notice, the holes in the plastic studs are actually slightly different sizes, so you will never get all the screws in without problems. Thats why I drilled them all to the same size. It doesn't take a lot of thread bite to hold the panels. Good luck!!
  7. Does anybody have the little 6" or so steel line that comes out of the pressure side of the PS pump? I had one that I took in to get plated and they lost it!! So now I am in need of one. If you have one you can offer please PM me. Thanks!!
  8. I got mine from Don at Ohio Mustang, they were perfect!
  9. This is not too hard of a fix. Just disconnect the linkage right at the bottom of the shifter. (mark it first). Then go inside the vehicle, remove shifter plastic bezel, and locator black out strip, and maybe Neutral safety switch. (Trying to remember the steps) Then If I recall it was a 9/16" offset to loosen the nut. Remove shifter handle, and replace bushings. This is a good time to lube cable and check everything else as well!! Maybe new shifter light bulb. Remember to grease bushings too!! Good luck!!
  10. If they are in good shape there is no problem in reusing them. It is a sound deadener. It called carpet underlayment. I used it in my car and the new carpet still fit well. I took it one step further and insulated the floor under the rear seat with Dynamat as well because that is where my mufflers are. Cheers!
  11. I had to totally remove the bottom tabs on mine, and then I welded 3/8 by 2" blocks on top that fit my brackets, now it sits almost exactly like the original! Luckily I am a welder, but if you want to see how I did it let me know. PS: Radiator has been working great!!
  12. I have a re-man booster with stock calipers and slotted rotors, and my engine only has 15hg vacuum, stainless flexible brake lines and drums in back still. My pedal is stiff but by no means unusable. Just stiff. Cardone did my booster as well. Good luck!
  13. You do have to install them with everything apart. They are made to pull in a bit. I don't remember exactly how I did it but it is possible and they do look good when done. I just remember I had to re-make a few pieces in there to make everything work! PS; don't forget and extra layer of jute down the sides or the upholstery will look flat on the sides.
  14. Also have quicker ratio, forgot the specs, but I do like it. Feels proper for the car. Not like driving an old LTD or something!!
  15. The originals are a little thinner than the aftermarket ones, other than that it's hard to tell. I have a FoMoCo spoiler and the pedestals were the only thing with a number. I could be wrong, but I think this is right. The originals stay straighter too!!
  16. The only reason I needed the different ball piece is because the threads were not long enough to get through the 3 washers I had to use to lock it in the middle of the big hole. I bought a small stainless washer assortment pack and mixed and matched until the washers locked into the hole and capped both ends. You will just have to play around with it to get it to work. Just make sure it will stay tight and check it often!! It is working fantastic! It's nice to have the last 1/4 throttle. Makes a big difference! Good luck!!
  17. I actually over torqued an intake once and split the paper gaskets and sucked oil into my intake so I know what that looks and smells like. I don't think its that, might be something to look into though, it VERY much smells like a rich mixture, very gas smelling so I'm sure for whatever reason its running rich when cold. And yes, the heads were rebuilt by a reputable place and they did the guides, and he has Ferrea valves. I won't be down there until Thanksgiving week this year so I will report on it then if he doesn't take it in. I was just wondering if most of you were drilling your primaries or not. Thanks!!
  18. I gave Pro Systems a complete spec sheet of every component to my engine and they built a carb for me, so they chose to drill them. I'm pretty sure his QF has the 6.5 hg power valve, and yes his carb has a choke, while mine does not. For whatever reason he refuses to take it to a performance shop for tuning,"must be old age stubborness" LOL!! I'm just worried he is going to mess up his new engine over a carb issue! We set his choke to let off really fast, and to be honest I have not seen the car in over a year so I'm not sure if he got it worked out or not.
  19. My father and I both have 71-73 Mustangs with 351 C's. When I rebuilt my engine I had Pro Systems build my carb for me and it works GREAT!! I tried to get him to do the same when he built his engine but he refused to go that route. Instead he bought a Quick Fuel 750 DP. We got it running ok, but when he first starts it it blows blue smoke that smells like gas until it's fully warmed up. then it runs ok and the smoke clears. Is this just a matter of drilling the front throttle plates? Is it drawing too much fuel when it's cold? Everything else works fine once it's warm. Thanks!! PS: My Pro Systems carb has the primaries drilled.
  20. Here are the pics. The little hole behind where the ball is, is about 3/4" behind. The pic does not do the distance justice. And The other is the part number for the Ball linkage pieces.
  21. I will get some pics tonight. It was a ford/edelbrock mounting kit with just a bunch of different ball ends in it.
  22. My cable rests literally 3/4" in front of the hole it mounts to. But, I went to O'rielly's yesterday, found a little kit that had 5 different little ball ends, and managed to use washers, locktite, and lock washer and mounted a ball pin thing in the big hole on the linkage arm. a lot closer to cable at rest, so I should have gained at least 5/8" of throw. I'm guessing that will be close enough. Kind of excited to have that much more throttle. This thing was already scary fast!!
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