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Everything posted by Omie01

  1. One more thing to check if you have a flat spot is the pump arm adjustment. My carb had a loose pump arm and it caused a weird little flat spot when I would first accelerate. It's free to check!!
  2. I am running a Pro-Systems 780XP. Yes, I have to compress cable a little to snap it on, then it doesn't seem to open all the way. I did install new carpet too though. Some things to look into!!!
  3. Is the throttle cable on our cars adjustable? I just noticed that my cable does not fully open my carburetor! Thanks!!
  4. I ran into this on the aftermarket ones too, you have to use the original rubber grommet/spacer to get the tension you need on the little fingers. I really wish they would test fit parts before they sell them!! UGH!!!! Hopefully your original seals/grommet things are in good shape!!
  5. I did do the quick ratio rebuild, but that was it. Like I said, I'm still happy with my pump and set-up!! Still easy to steer! Cheers!!
  6. I'm not asking this to step on any toes, I am genuinely curious. Why go through all the trouble to change out the power steering components in our cars? My aftermarket pump was cheap and works well, the replacement lines are working well, and my rebuilt steering box works great!! My power steering is almost too good. I don't see the advantage in swapping it out. I would like to hear why you guys do this. Thanks!!
  7. That area is kind of self explanatory, there are little tooth plates that mount back thereonce that area of the headliner is pulled taught down over those teeth, the sail panels just lay over that back area to dress it up. The tricky part for me was how high up the sides to apply glue. for the first couple inches after rounding the corner from my windshield I was gluing the headliner too high. You can see it now, but I can live with that one little mistake for the sake of not having to re-do the whole thing. Just take your time and use really good 3M glue!!
  8. Has anybody used these heads? I was poking around on Ebay and found these Iron 4V heads, part# PCE281.2103 by Speedmaster, claims they are 64cc comb. chamber, and 254cc Intake throat and they are already machined for screw in studs. At $1300 with valves and guides looks like it may be a good deal. Just not sure about the Speedmaster name!
  9. My father and I are looking for a spare 9 inch diff. for our cars. I live in Minnesota and don't want to drive too far to pick one up. I will Drive a few hundred miles for pick-up. Gear ratio does not matter, neither does spline count. As long as it's a 9" out of a 71-3 Mustang. Thanks!!
  10. I know when I bought my car and removed the headliner, somebody installed it without rolling over the windshield/rear window ledge and it looked good. I think really good glue, lots of small spring clamps, and finding as many "Cheater" points you can use to hold it. They tucked the headliner under the rear window gasket. You might have to re-set some ends sometimes but I think it's doable. Good luck! :cool:
  11. The reason I'm trying the Flexplate first is because the Harmonic Balancer I bought was REALLY expensive, and the flexplate was cheap, so I figured between the 2 the flexplate was more suspect. And I wanted to upgrade anyway. The Hayes I just got did FINALLY fit, and it's really thick, so it looks really heavy duty. It bolted in with no problems. I will keep everybody posted.
  12. I have a Hayes 12-030 on order, it doesn't look like the same stampings, but it is ASI certified, dichromite finish yada-yada. Ordered from a different vendor. lollerz Hopefully it fits!!
  13. FMX trans. I have counted the teeth twice, and my starter works with it.
  14. The crankshaft in my car is stock, plus an extra stock one at my shop, and the flexplates don't fit either, and get this, I had them send me another TCI to see if it was a fluke, but thats the second one that did not fit. They are barely off on 3 holes, I just don't want to grind the holes open. I did that on my B&M and I suspect that may be the cause of the vibration issue I am having. I just want a flexplate that bolts to a stock 351C crank!! Can't be that hard!! I have a 164 tooth, 28 oz. imbalance flexplate. Pretty common stuff!
  15. The ATI is nice, but it is not offset like it should be, and the center hole is too big. Like it was suppose to have an adapter? Now waiting on another TCI just to see if I got a "fluke". Not even sure what to think now! If this don't work, gonna just return everything and buy from a different vendor! I'll keep you posted!! Thanks!
  16. I have purchased 2 different flex plates through Summit for my 351C, and neither of them have fit the bolt pattern correctly!! I bought a B&M SFI approved back in 2016 and had to "Modify" it to fit, but now I have a small vibration that comes and goes with engine RPM, so I decided to swap out the flex plate because it was the cheapest part, and it never sat right with me that I had to make it fit. So this time I spent twice as much on a TCI flex plate SFI 29.1, and guess what, SAME PROBLEM!! the bolt holes are just BARELY off, and we all know they only bolt up one way with the 28 oz. counterweight. I tried both of them on a different crank I have and same story. But get this, one was $75, the other $153, and they are both made with the same tooling, even have the same made in mexico stamp, just one has more welds and a different finish. Hmmmm!!!??? Anyway, I am returning the latest one, and now have a $209 ATI coming to me. Buyers beware! I just want to know, using ARP bolts, do I use a thread lube and torque to 75 ft lbs, or use loctite and torque to 70 ft. lbs? What have others done? I have the 12 point ARP bolts for my flex plate.
  17. I found and bought the Leeds 9" Brake booster not knowing that our originals are 11". Has anybody used one of these? I would think it would save a little room under the hood? And it is supposed to function as good as the original. I'm not too worried about the "stock" look, just wanted a functioning booster. Any info would be greatly appreciated!!
  18. I have been trying to get a good pair of Ram Air hood hinges set up for my car, but it has proved to be an expensive and exhausting problem. I was going to send them out for rebuild but after paying for shipping plus the $175 to have them rebuilt and buy a pair of Ram Air springs its over $300. I bought a really nice pair off of Ebay, the rivets are good, but they are all bent up. Couldn't tell from the pics. I don't want to bend everything back because then they will be weak at those points. Anybody have any pointers or stories of what you did for hinges? PS, I do have a pair of new aftermarket hinges in my car now, and they are working ok, but I just wanted to have some rebuilt original ones for originality sake. Thanks!!
  19. Looks very good!! I know how tough it is to detail our engine bays!!
  20. My dad has a 73 Mach 1 that has a full blue interior, and I know he needs the passenger side A-pillar molding. Maybe both. Willing to pay for a pair. Thanks!!
  21. I have been searching for a good original set for a while now, and they are usually sun faded or worse. I just retro-fitted mine with a modern 3 point replacement and it works very well and looks appropriate. Good luck!!
  22. I have one in my car and have no exhaust issues. But I don't have staggered shocks either. If I remember right I only had to drill one hole on each side because I was able to use one of the existing holes.
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