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Everything posted by Omie01

  1. All too often this a story that keeps popping up. I think so many people complain these days that some places just take on the hard attitude right away. They like the money, but they don't like being responsible for their product. Something else they should do is try all of their products, restore cars for showcasing their stuff, then sell them off, that way they know what quality their parts are, or could give you tips on how to make parts work!! But I have heard some outrageous lies just to convince me that they know there parts "fit" or "work". Not all of them are bad understand, but the aftermarket parts world is a crap shoot at best!! Good luck to all! We do it for the love of these cars!!
  2. I actually used this tip from this forum when I did my engine compartment. Works VERY well!!
  3. I got one off of Ebay and made sure it had the plug on it. It was around $100 but it works ok. Not the same quality as original, but it works for now.
  4. I used some Dynamat in my car, my only issue with it is that it really STICKS!! I had to undo a little bit of it and it was a pain in the a$$!! As long as your car stays dry, there is no reason to over-do it!! Clearance in most areas is not a problem.
  5. Thats why I just opted to put a VDO set in my car. I just never liked the quality of the original gauges, I tried really hard to keep most things on my car as original as possible, but the small gauges had to go!! I have never regretted it!!
  6. I just bought a big roll of 1/2" Jute and cut a piece that "fit" behind my back rest portion, You can kind of see what the shape needs to be.
  7. Be careful with intake manifolds with paper type gaskets, I kept re-torquing my intake until I stopped getting movement, but it caused my gaskets to split on the bottom causing oil to get sucked into my intake ports.
  8. I have them in my car with FMX and they work and have good clearance, mine are for 4V heads, but I don't think that matters. Good luck!!
  9. I'm guessing this would also be a Dynacorn part as I have never heard of any other company making sheet metal. If there was, we would already know about it because nobody REALLY wants to use Dynacorn sheet metal if they don't have to. Usually we have no other choice! I'm really hoping I don't need too much sheet metal for my restoration.
  10. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I forgot how I ended up with both the stiff and softer clips. I'm pretty sure the "stiff" ones were CJ's cheap ones, so if you get the ones from NPD or even your local Napa has the Ford correct ones. Just compare a couple different ones and go with the springier ones. You can tell when they are the good ones.
  11. I have to ask, are you using "string" or small "rope"? The string you are using looks a bit small. I had to crank on my rope, especially around the corners. I think I used clothes-line rope for mine. My ledge was also 3/8" to 1/2" and you have to kind of center the window so it is a good idea to have somebody watching from the outside. And FOR SURE get the more flexible window clips, there is a BIG difference between the stiff ones and flexible ones. You may also want to re-do your sail panels at this point because they should also fold into window channel. Good luck, rear windows are never fun!! I did mine twice!!
  12. I would stick to the spot welds. They do look cleaner after clean-up. And my opinion as a welder of 30 years, is that the spot welds are stronger when used this way, the overlap makes it tougher. Just be sure to move around a lot. if you look closely there are some places on our cars where they did lay down string beads, but mostly on structural things!!
  13. I really like the idea of the dustless stripping, especially if they can do it right in my driveway. I am land locked in Minnesota. Not to many specialists up here for these kinds of things. Thanks for all the input Gents. Feel free to keep sharing experiences!!
  14. Again I have been watching a lot of body work videos, and the one thing that keeps coming up is poorly formed sheet metal. My question is this. Do the after market doors and fenders fit reasonably well on our cars? What about full or partial quarter panel replacements? I may need a new trunk lid has anybody used an aftermarket one yet? If so which brands. And then, The HOOD, I think I already asked once about after market hoods. Who makes the best one? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! I fear body work, thats why all the questions!
  15. I have seen lots of different ways to supposedly strip our cars, but I have been watching a lot of videos lately and nobody shows HOW they strip their cars. I have been told sand blasting warps metal and sand gets in all the nooks and crannies, soda blasting seems popular but hard to clean metal after or something? Then actual dipping sounds like a big no-no becasue it can seep out over time and ruin paint. I understand sanding the big panels is the way to go, but how do you get inside doors, inside frame rails, under trunk lids, door jambs and rockers and so on? Please let me know how you stripped your cars! Thanks!!
  16. I had to use spacers under the throttle bracket to lift it on my Air Gap, and then yes, reverse the ball stud to the inside of the carb linkage. It doesn't have to be perfectly straight, but it has to be close.
  17. They did install a new check valve when rebuilt. And I actually paid a garage to adjust the push rod because I didn't know how. I did replace the MC, but just with a parts house replacement, I did not check that the bore was a certain size. I do have a mighty mite vacuum pump and I believe I have the adapter. I will try the few tests you guys descibed and will get back to you. Thank You Gents!! Always so much knowledge on this site!!
  18. I had my booster rebuilt by A-1 Cardone a couple years ago, but my pedal has always felt pretty stiff. Now granted I have had 2 engines with bigger cams, and my vacuum has been under 15 hg. Will this NOT operate the booster at all? I tried the test the other night of keeping my foot on the brake pedal when I started it, and the pedal did not move at all. None of this is to say my brakes are bad, they aren't. They are just very stiff. I'm just trying to figure out if my booster is working at all? Any info or insight would be appreciated!! Thanks!!
  19. I have a beautiful original brake booster out of that 73 we had. Does anybody recommend a good booster rebuilder? I would like to re-do mine at some point. Thanks Gents!!
  20. The ones that Don is offering are the correct ones, I have seen the same ones in all 71-73 cars!
  21. Was there 2 different hood latches for our cars? Actually I know there is because I have 2 of each. I just don't know which years got what. My 1972 Mustang has the short stubby handled latch, but the 1973 latch I have the lever is long and skinny, did the different grilles have different latches? Or can you use either on any grille?
  22. I know most aftermarket panels do not fit very well. My car at some point will need a new trunk floor, probably rear quarter repair, "from back of door to tail light area wrap around, not sure how high this will have to be cut. But probably trunk drop down pieces, and maybe even the pieces that tie into the upper tail light panel. Does anybody have any stories of the headaches they ran into doing this kind of work. I did find an NOS tail light panel so hopefully that fits well!! And i probably need a new hood. Not sure if mine would be fixable?
  23. That's how I ended up with the valves, I worked out a trade for something and I told the guy if he had a set of "good" valves I would trade. And he sent me these. He will hear my complaint today because I'm sure he was just pawning them off. What a world we live in!!
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