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    1972 Ford Mustang Coupe
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    Seattle, WA
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  1. Thanks everyone! I think I have a solid understanding of what to do now. I read all the links and watched a couple YouTube videos to clarify things.
  2. I apologize I haven’t had the chance to read everything yet, been fairly busy the last 2 days and the catalytic converters got stolen out of my other car 😕 I also want to note that I do have a tachometer now. It’s an old engine analyzer tool that I just found and got working again. I also have a timing light and vacuum gauge. I dropped the vacuum gauge by accident the other day and I don’t know if it’s reading accurately. Im showing 19hg at 710rpms idle. Seems a bit high in my opinion but wanted to confirm if that sounds right to others.
  3. The engine is a 351-2v Cleveland. Originally a 2bbl carburetor. The internals are stock to the best of my knowledge. The only notable aftermarket parts are an Edelbrock 650cfm carb, RPM air gap intake manifold, Edelbrock valve covers, air cleaner and pertronix ignitor. The cap/rotor, plugs, relay, and fuel pump haven’t been modified, only routine replacements with identical parts. I took out the factory air conditioning a while ago since it wasn’t working and I wanted to have more space to work on the engine. The factory heads were also refurbished within the last 3 years due to hairline cracks in both. Aside from all that, I can’t think of anything else.
  4. The pump slot I’m in is the middle, however I tried the highest one and made no difference. I’m going to try increasing the jet size and then see if that helps. Should I only increase the primaries or also do the secondaries too?
  5. See I was wondering if it was running rich initially because a friend driving behind me said that when I’d accelerate there would be black smoke coming from the passenger side exhaust pipe. However my spark plugs don’t seem blackened by carbon. I was hesitant to install larger jets because of that. I did install the silver 8 inch HG step up springs in the carburetor to see if that helped my acceleration issue.
  6. Plug wires are Autolite 7mm Professional Series and Spark plugs are Motorcraft ASF42CA Copper Core. The distributer cap isn’t anything other than just a stock one I got at the parts store. Distributer itself is original as far as I know. And it’s just the Pertronix igniter inside the distributer cap.
  7. So I want to get the timing correct on my 1972 Mustang before further tuning the carburetor. I had a friend help me a while back with it last time, but I still don't really understand how to figure out what timing is best. I am running a 351 Cleveland with 2 valve heads, an Edelbrock 4 barrel 650cfm carburetor, and pertronix ignition. I've been trying to figure out why my engine backfires when i step on the throttle hard. If I do a steady acceleration it is typically fine but I notice a lack of power when i accelerate hard. I don't have a tachometer unfortunately but I do have a timing light. Is anyone able to help walk me through the process?
  8. It’s a 351-2v Cleveland, stock bottom end. I took apart the top half of the engine and got the heads refurbished due to a hairline crack in both. I also added a 4 barrel Edelbrock 650cfm carb & performance intake manifold, along with Hedman headers. It has a stock distributor but with a pertronix igniter. I started noticing the tick when I switched from 87 octane fuel to 89 after the rebuild. I decided to add Seafoam in the crankcase to see if that would help at first but nothing. I was adjusting the idle mixture screws and realized I had the vacuum advance plugged in to the wrong side of the carburetor. This actually solved a rough idle I had but didn’t change the tick sound in the heads.
  9. I started noticing a tick coming from the engine that I suspect might have to do with timing and vacuum advance. I’m pretty inexperienced with doing the timing though. I run 89 octane fuel at the moment. My distributor is stock and I’ve been wondering how to adjust the vacuum advance on it. It doesn’t have the adjustment for an allen wrench that I’ve seen on others. Can anyone offer any assistance?
  10. UPDATE The vacuum line that connects from the transmission to the manifold was disconnected. Car shifts fine now. So happy this problem was solved! Thank you everyone for your advice
  11. I was going to look at the vacuum lines today. I'd be surprised if there was a leak of some sort
  12. Hi Everyone, I took my 1972 Mustang to a shop to get the passenger side rear axle replaced because the current one was bent slightly from clipping a curb. When I picked up the car and was taking it home I very quickly realized the car wasn't shifting properly. When I got it home I added 1 1/2 quarts of Type F automatic transmission fluid since the marking was slightly below "add" to bring it up to where it should be but that didn't solve the shifting problem. Basically I can shift into park, reverse and neutral just fine. I can also manually shift from 1st to 2nd and back just fine too. The only thing is that when it is in drive the car stays in the gear it was already in. I know for a fact the car was shifting normally when i brought it to the shop and was shocked to find it wasn't shifting correctly when I took it home. I'm not sure if when the shop was replacing the axle that something could've effected the transmission? They claim they did everything properly with the axle and aren't sure why it's shifting this way. Any help would be much appreciated!
  13. Hello everyone! A while ago I was going around a turn in the rain and my 1972 Mustang slid out and I overcorrected the recovery and clipped a curb with my passenger side rear wheel. I replaced the smoothie wheel with a new one and got it fitted onto the tire and put back onto the car. Although, a couple times now the wheel balancer has fallen off and the wheel has a slight wobble (not really noticeable until above 30mph in terms of hearing the wobble). I was told by a friend to look into a hub centric spacer or ring because the wheel might be slightly off center when mounted. He told me to find the wheel bore and hub size for the stock 1972 Mustang wheels but i can't find anything. Anyone able to help, or offer any other advice as to fixing this problem? I don't want to take my car on a freeway until i get this fixed. Thanks! -Zak
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