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csgt428

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Everything posted by csgt428

  1. Speaking of Pertronix I put them on pretty much ALL of my more or less stock engined cars if the original distributor is fairly tight and the advance is working properly. You get the factory look AND electronic ign. plus the factory advance curve that Ford designed for that engine application.... The local O'Riellys parts store always has a Chevy and a Ford one in stock where I live. This is a classic car crazy town though....
  2. OH Yeh, you guys have me thinking now. I have an extra hideaway set up from a 70 Torino. I'm gonna start measuring at first light tomorrow.... ^ And as good as it looks, this demonstrates exactly why hide-away headlights do NOT belong on the '71-73s: It makes them look like a logical evolution of the first-gen Camaro: Put a standard hood on the Mustang chop, and you'll be hard pressed to tell the two apart at first glance. Only the turn signal shape and the taller greenhouse on the Camaro are the giveaways. The quad headlight setup in the top right prototype isn't bad though (and I bet Luxstang will love the hood scoop!): Funny how the bottom left concept is undoubtedly the source by which Ford restyled the '73 turn signals due to the forced relocation. Note the bumper blackout. -Kurt
  3. If it were me I'd just put a Good aftermarket coil on it. A Blaster 2 or other high energy coil would help the Unilite realize it's potential. Unless you need to rev limit the engine I don't really see the need for the box....jmo
  4. Probably not your problem but when I bought my 72 'Q' code convertible it had a 600 cfm Holley carb on it. The car seemed pretty weak so I pulled the Holley.....HA! It had a spread bore intake and the Holley was a square bore.... The secondary throttle plates couldn't open! I eventually found a correct #'s rebuilt CJ spread bore carb and put on it. Yes, it runs MUCH better now.
  5. Does it have a rebuilt distributor? I've had really bad luck with stock rebuilds. Same thing, stumbles as soon as the vacuum advance kicks in. Try disconnecting the vacuum and see what happens.
  6. Ahh, OK. Yes I did. I should have done a search first. The other thread is much more gratifying....
  7. Enjoy Guys! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-zOT_Pw26k
  8. I saw so many things I just quit caring after awhile.... I think it's overpriced
  9. I'm done....common courtesy and all. Good luck with the problem....
  10. I tried the nuts and bolts once....ONCE! You're not going anywhere with the acid and motorcycle crap and it's not cheap! If you're trying to cheap it put on a really GOOD inline BIG filter.... the fuel injection ones work well. Hell, put on TWO....the final one should be clear so you can see what's going on.....
  11. Hi, welcome from WA state. It doesn't need to handle like a "wheelbarrow"! First put some performance coils up front and big sway bars front and rear. Then get subframe connectors w the X brace installed. The body flex on converts is horrible without it.....You'll be amazed at the difference. Worth every penny. Oh, and don't forget some Good shocks all around if it doesn't have them already.
  12. Looks kinda like he modded the ram aircleaner to fit the HEI.
  13. Honestly....when you said it was fixed I was puzzled by your description of the "fix". I was thinking what you described would have most likely made for a wandering misfire...not specific to a particular cylinder. When I made my suggestions I wasn't really thinking/realizing that most people probably don't have "extra" parts they can just start throwing on the engine one at a time, like I can, till finding the problem(s). Of course I DO perform all the appropriate tests first to try and isolate the problem beforehand...... It's quicker/easier that way. Trouble shooting is an art...especially with intermittent problems!
  14. Come on guys.....I kinda like it. My Mach had a receiver hitch when I first got it. Looked tough. Definitely a 70's look. Now if that's all metal and not bondo....I like it even better! 429cj engine...Hoo Ha, I bid on it
  15. That's good to know as mine is leaking a little but still tight and the variable ratio also. I didn't like the idea of replacing it.
  16. You left out a 70/71 429 s/cj block: DOVE-A, this is the casting #, some, not all, were 4-bolt main. This is for Torino....not sure of the other marques. The D5TE block# is incorrect obviously....that is a 1975 460" truck block
  17. That's impressive knowledge. You forgot to mention it's one of the FASTEST arthropods also! :D
  18. I have a 70 Torino Cobra 429 drag pac that everyone thought was a charger. It had the Dukes of Hazard wheels when I first got it and hideaway headlights I put on it. (since removed) I got a lot of "Nice Charger!" comments. Ha ha It outran all the Ford muscle of the day (even the Bosses) and most of the rest as well..... No myth here. Not bad for a "Sedan"!
  19. Is it idling off the center carb only? If so, has it gotten a little colder weather wise lately? You might need to change jets in that one and I'd Definitely put a choke on the center carb. If it's idling off all three you could try the above and a different distributor and coil as well. Coil first. Just replace/change one thing at a time till you figure it out. Have you compression tested it lately? Could be as simple/bad as low compression in a cylinder or two.... Another thing to check for is a leaky intake manifold sucking air, creates a lean condition.....take some starting fluid and spray it where the intake runners meet the head starting with the missing ones. If it smooths out, there you are. The only problem with this test is that it might be sucking from underneath the manifold....Come to think of it...I'd try this one first.....You might be able to fix it just by re-torqueing the manifold if lucky. I'd do that first just for general puposes. If any of the bolts are slacked off you could have sucked the gasket in toward the port till it no longer seals properly. Grant PS. Believe it or not when over carbureted you might actually have a lean condition because the "signal" to the jets is weaker and you actually have to put in bigger jets to get a good fuel/air ratio!
  20. I also went the same route back in 2004 with the 2-ton HF model that you can break down into components for storage. About the only HF thing that has held up over time, but I've only used it 5-6 times in the past decade. I agree with attaching transmission to install together. I like the idea of using a vinyl glove taped to the tailhousing... What they said, I almost always pull and install the engine/tranny together. As far as not making a mess.....I have several old driveline yokes that I stuff in the end of the tranny so no fluid coming out. You can get plastic versions as well.....
  21. It'll make all the difference. To make it clear concerning the measurements I took, I have the stock 4V cast iron intake on mine currently but I had an edlebrock performer intake on it and the clearance was also fine for the Ram Air. Besides height, I think the MSD distributor will also be an issue since the Ram Air cleaner is large, and already sits close to the stock distributor. There's very little clearance in that area. I bought an MSD dist and then decided not to use it for that very reason. I ended up using a Pertronix and flame thrower coil with my stock distributor. NO complaints....
  22. My shop manual gives three positions for the balancer to be in...TDC, rotated 180 deg clockwise, and rotated 270 deg or 3/4 turn, and the appropriate valves to adjust in each position. I usually rotate the push rods with my fingers while tightening the rocker until the pushrod quits rotating freely. I then take it down another 3/4 turn. This has always worked for me with stock camshafts. Of course you need to mark your balancer correctly.....I use a straight edge and start with the timing mark at top dead center (at pointer) at one end of the straight edge and lay the straight edge across the balancer with the center of the mounting bolt directly under the edge....it helps if the fan and shroud have been removed. I then mark the balancer opposite the TDC mark. The other mark (at 90 and 270 degrees) is a little more difficult to make and I usually just "wing" it but you could get really fussy and use a small sliding carpenters "square" if winging it bothers you .....
  23. I am also a SCI FI nut, if only because I am also an ALIEN....and it's interesting to see humans imagining the way things are out there... :D I think the opening scene in 2001 kinda lets the audience know what it's about. An ancient alien race which nurtures and helps "lower" life forms "grow" in their understanding of the "Universe" has erected the monoliths which trigger change in, and teach us..... The ending IS a bit strange but I think it is attempting to depict the possibility of "Humanity" reaching a stage in which we are like "children" of the older race and can grow in our own way and perhaps do the same... In this case taking over where the Ancients left off and Bowman, a Human becoming "godlike", can use his own knowledge of humanity and intuition of our needs to create a "new" future for us. A future with a lot more room to stretch our legs.....wait, wait...is that 2010 I'm thinking of now? :rolleyes:
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