Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Terlingua_RS last won the day on August 20 2015

Terlingua_RS had the most liked content!

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1


  • Location
    Mid Hudson Valley, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Terlingua_RS's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Taken last year (2016) [video=youtube]
  2. I wasn't impressed with the Dynacorn tail lamp panel I bought. I took photos of the imperfections of the panel before I sent it back. The holes that were pre drilled around the fuel filler opening were off center by a lot. There was this strange outwards crease above the right tail light opening that wasn't on the left side. The metal looked bumpy and wavy across the flat areas. I thought it was a little rough. Would it work?, yes but you will have to put more time in getting it to look the way it should. Now most of it can be covered up if you chose to have a finish panel and mouldings. When I bought the tail lamp panel I figured I would spend a few extra $$ to get the name brand given their reputation but it is a waste of the extra money. They are all made in Taiwan even the Dynacorn. Some may be made in a different plant with better or worse presses. If you go to CJ Pony parts and look at the Dynacorn rear panel image and if you can magnify the picture by scrolling mouse over, you can see this strange bump in their photo too. The other rear body panel that they offer seems to look better in the image and for less money. fuel opening And in the reflection you can see what looks like sags in primer but it is actually the metal that is rippled slightly. More prep work. Off center on left is 5/8" from drill hole to outer flange. Right side is about 1/4" Strange bump above opening Left side normal. No bump
  3. Welcome from NY. I love the colors too. ::thumb::
  4. I don't think the extended length of a different shock is going to make the condition worse by bottoming out on the frame rail. The front strut bar and stabilizer link will help support the suspension and if it did touch , it's not going to hurt it. Unless you are jumping a creek and your suspension is unloaded but then you might have a bigger problem than being concerned if your control arm is touching your frame rail when you land it. :P The extended length range on just those links that I posted are between 12.2", 12.625" and 13.9" They are specifically made for the "73" in those examples. I have not tried comparing the other model years but I found it interesting that there was a wide range in the length. I'm not sure why there are such differences. I've never come across that before and thought if you needed shocks for your car they were all the same in length. Unloaded suspension before I overhauled and detailed it. Note: the control arm is touching the frame rail. Loaded suspension after overhauled. I don't have a picture of unloaded suspension after the overhaul but I can say it's not much different than in this picture. The shock travel is shorter.
  5. I know what you are talking about. I was wondering the same thing too on my car. I have the original suspension,springs etc. I replaced the front and rear shocks with the KYB gas adjust shocks. The piston travel is a lot shorter than the ones I took off. When the car is jacked up from the front and the wheels are off the floor, it's flattening out the upper bushings. I never remember having an issue when I jacked the car and put it on jack stands with the old shocks. I did a little comparison after I installed my shocks. It seems they make different shaft lengths. Check it out. go to advance auto parts online and search for shocks that fit your car. Look at the specifications tab and see the compressed length and the extended length. You will see that they are not all made the same. I will someday change mine but will be looking for the longest length version when I do. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/monroe-oespectrum-passenger-car-shock-absorber-5823/19710806-P?searchTerm=shock+absorbers#fragment-2 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kyb-front-gas-shock-343156/19170405-P?searchTerm=shock+absorbers#fragment-2 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kyb-front-gas-shock-kg4504/19171011-P?searchTerm=shock+absorbers#fragment-2
  6. :thankyouyellow: Austin Vert, I like your idea too for your speaker install. It is much more challenging to find a way to have rear speakers with the fold down seat without cutting holes somewhere. Good job, nice write up too. Video doesn't capture the audio quality but you get the idea. [video=youtube] To one up my trunk mounted enclosure and make it totally hidden, it might be possible to mount the amp on the backside of the board or up on the underside of the rear shelf and recess in the subwoofers, cover over it with the enclosure material. The only problem might be clearance for the shallow mount subwoofers. The front of the enclosure would have to be raised about 2.5" and the rear upper part about 1" higher.
  7. When it comes to audio systems for our cars it's a personal choice. Everybody has their own likes and dislikes in what they want to see in their cars. Modern units , Retro style, original stock, it's all good. I thought about this for a long time. I kind of knew what I didn't want in an audio system. I didn't want modern unit in dash, or retro , I didn't want to carry around CD's or cassettes. I tinkered with the idea of mounting a modern style unit in the glove box and use a remote to control the unit. That idea stuck with me the longest and started looking around for a unit that I wanted and will fit. But I wasn't 100% on board with that idea. When I'm out in the garage working on my 73 I always bring out my portable Bose Bluetooth speaker and play Sirius satellite radio on my iphone using the app. One day it finally hit me. That's what I want. I only want to play whatever I have on my iphone. I did a search online for some kind of Bluetooth receiver for autos. I didn't know what I was looking for because I didn't even know it something like that existed. Found it ! Boss audio ( how appropriate ::thumb:: too bad Mach audio doesn't make one ) has something that is made for utility vehicles. ATV's Buggys, etc. Bluetooth receiver box that puts out 500 watts total, 4 channel and is compatible with an amplifier. Perfect !, just what I was looking for. So from there I got a little crazy. I ordered that Bluetooth unit, found a Boss 1000 watt amp, 10" Boss shallow mount subwoofers, 6x9 JL speakers, Plye 5x7's for the doors. Holy crap where the heck am I going to put all this stuff. Well again, more research, thinking, planning on how to make it all fit in the car and still look tasteful. My goal was to have a the original radio in dash, but have modern system that isn't visible. Kinda like a car that they would call a sleeper but in an audio system. I want to hear the music but not see where it's coming from. I knew I needed an enclosure to house the subwoofers and amp. So I looked for premade stuff for a while. Nothing agreed with me. I find more often than not, when I build something it needs to have more than one purpose. That's when I figured I would need to build my own. I made a template out of cardboard, trimmed it, trial and error, in and out of the car so many times until I got it right. The one thing I noticed is that the enclosure I was creating actually has more than one purpose. #1, It finishes off the clean look of the trunk area. For us guys that don't have a fold down rear seat, the far end of the trunk up towards the back seat is pretty ugly. #2, it will hold subwoofers and amp, allowing for all the wires to be run underneath it on the backside. #3, my carpeted floor mat stops just short of the hump that goes up by the shock absorber access holes. It looked terrible seeing the carpet all nice then just stop short of that area. this enclosure starts where the carpet ends giving it that custom finished look. Gathering all the materials all at once was impossible. When I knew what I needed it was usually the weekend and I either had to go to a store or go online and order it. Slowing this whole process down. It took a month and a half of weekends to complete it. I did not expect it to take that long but once I got into it I knew I was going to have a long haul. just the wiring alone drove me nuts. From the receiver, 4 sets of wires to the back, into amp, out of amp, 2 sets of wires going back forward to the doors, power hookups, grounds, remotes :huh: ugh. I replaced the rear parcel shelf , drilled holes and covered it with enclosure material. I covered the trunk enclosure with the same material. I also covered the backside of the door speaker grilles with the same material so you cant see the speaker through the grille. I also made sure the entire trunk enclosure can be removed if needed. Figured in easy disconnects and labeled all the wires so if it comes out, I know where it all goes. I pre bent braces and screwed them to the back seat area and into the enclosure to keep it from moving. Also made mounting brackets out of aluminum bar for Bluetooth receiver unit that I mounted in the glove box. There is a perfect mounting spot for the brackets in there. I attached a photo of that install process. The Bluetooth unit also has aux input, an additional output and a USB charging plug for the phone. I only left the USB plug hang down inside the glove box, the rest is tucked away. The Bluetooth unit has a wired remote that I put inside the upper compartment in the center dash. When I got my car someone cut the top off the compartment so I didn't feel so bad in drilling a hole in the back of it to run the wire harness. It fits nicely in there, easy to reach and I have cut a piece of enclosure material to place in front of that remote unit to keep it hidden if I wanted. I had several other location possibilities for the remote. Sacrifice the ash tray and mount it inside under the slide cover or inside the center console storage area somewhere. I felt the easiest access and safer area to reach would be the center dash. Finally, it's done and it sounds great !. I am completely satisfied on how it turned out. I hear the crisp clear high pitch sounds out of the door speakers, great bass out of the 6x9's and the subwoofers do their job and compliment the whole package. And now all the pictures. rear shelf enclosure build Shallow mount subwoofer just makes it with 1/4" clearance Bluetooth receiver mounting brackets on template Glove box mount you cant see it from the passenger seat unless you look up inside Remote I cut to fit a piece of enclosure material to sit in front of remote if I wanted it to be totally hidden. It's just set in place. Door speaker covering. 3M adhesive around perimeter on both halves to hold in place. Finished rear deck shelf, hidden speakers Finished
  8. Looks good. Fits perfectly. ::thumb:: Center gauges looks good too. What did you end up using there. My water temp. gauge doesn't work properly. I need something to replace it with. Right now I have an aux. gauge sitting loose to keep an eye on the temp.
  9. My car on canvas. ( and a large mug ) Got it from Photobucket the last time they had a sale on canvas pictures. The price was low so I figured I'd try it out. I think it turned out pretty good. The print is on a 1-1/2" boxed frame with hanger(s) on the back. This one is 16" x 20" From time to time Photobucket has promotional specials on canvas art and stuff. Right now they have 70% off all décor if anyone is interested. https://secure.photobucket.com/print
  10. Very cool. Sounds like a good time and good eats ::thumb::
  11. Found this available on ebay too. The guy sells a bunch of interesting stuff. He also sells prints but the cool thing is he had the 73 shown with the correct slotted wheels. I asked if he could put on the Magnum 500's instead. No problem. He can change the color of the car, edit and customize the image. Worth a peek if you are interested. http://stores.ebay.com/Maddmax-Design?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
  12. Hello , my name is Rick , I live in Walden, NY and I've been registered here since late October 2014 when I made the decision to search for my Mach 1 . So I'm a little late in my introduction since working on my car over the winter, spring and part of the summer this year. It's finally road worthy and just getting the chance to enjoy it. 1973 Mach 1, Q code 351c, 4v, 4speed Hurst, 3:50 Traction-Lok diff, competition suspension, Deluxe interior, Rim-Blow steering wheel, Magnum 500's - 15x7 , 2B Bright red , 43,000 original miles. I bought it online from MN. I have a friend who lives out there and he checked it out for me. Paint and bodywork was done, interior is original but it needed maintenance and detailing to the suspension, undercarriage. I will post a few before and afters in another post. I've owned several Mustangs over the years, I've always loved them since being a kid. I'm sure I got the love for these cars from my dad who has owned several in in life as well. His last Mustang he owned was a 1972 Mach1, 351c, automatic. I remember the day he had to sell it , $2500. that was the going price way back then. But I didn't have that kind of money and had my own 1970 Grande at the time. Fast forward to today, once I made the commitment to buy another Mustang my search only included 71-73 model years. To me these cars were the best fastback, coupe and convertible designs out of all the mustangs built in my opinion.
  13. Thanks. The pictures were taken in Montgomery at the Thomas Bull Memorial Park, ( Orange county park ) I live about 8 or 9 miles from there. They are having a car show there on the 26th of this month. Your shop looks nice. You are in CT? My work takes me to the Brewster / Carmel area at times. I know the area pretty well and all of the body shops on the NY side. Where is your shop?
  • Create New...