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Everything posted by bkdunha

  1. Great work David you should be very proud and I know you have made all of us honored and proud to be part of your journey to get the 73 back. Thank you for all of the updates. Get the rest you deserve and enjoy knowing that you have delivered an awesome survivor to the museum for people from around the world to enjoy.
  2. David Congratulations on making your goal and delivering a great and very very original car to the museum for the world to enjoy. You accomplished alot in a short period of time. Now it is time to sit back, recover, and know you have made a difference getting your 73 in front of 100's of people to enjoy. You never know, there may be that 1 kid out there that visits the museum and lays eyes on your car and falls in love with the 71-73 mustang. I am sure there will be more, but I hope just one new person coming to appreciate our family of mustangs is worth it. Again, CONGRATULATIONS and you have made all of us on this forum very proud of your hard work. Go have a cold one on us.
  3. Good sign when things in Canada are looking good for a drive.
  4. Doing a deep cleaning and sorting getting the house ready to be sold. I have a couple of extra parts that need a new home. I will leave the posting up for a week and if no responses by Friday 04/19/19 they go to the scraper. 2 - 1972 rear frame rail sections w/Torque boxes, 1 has had the last 12-15 inches removed the other is complete. 3- Front inner fender splash shields 1 - Hood latch support Anyone interested pays for shipping to your address from zip 38017. [attachment=48954] [attachment=48955] [attachment=48956]
  5. Yes, the spring perches are "natural" steel. Basically from the factory they were bare steel. Mustang Club of America rules allow for a painted finish to duplicate the factory finishes. The painted finish is to allow you to fend off the rust and corrosion a bare steel part would experience. I am fortunate that I located my build sheet 30+ years ago when I was a teenager and this being my first car. I saved that and it has the codes for the paint colors on the driveshaft. If you are careful cleaning your drive shaft with mineral spirits you may be able to locate the color stripes on yours. If you car is a 351 V 2V (H Code) with an automatic (FMX) and a 9" rear you will probably have the same paint codes. I will help out any way I can to help you reach your goal. If you have not already printed the rules out from the attached post in the Concourse category you may want to. It will help you towards your concourse goal. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-71-73-2019-mca-judging-rules
  6. Great work Pegleg! You are putting alot of time, effort, and money into this. Sorry I had to add the money part, but it is a reality. If you would like to see what a single exhaust looks like here is my car as an example. Also, I noted you had the center section in black on the rear axle. For concourse that should be red oxide. Not sure if you have revised your plans from concourse over time. It happens, just wanted to help id still going down that path. free image hosting
  7. Looks good! Congrats on hitting the goal and all off the hard work you have put in.
  8. Score! Found some over the hood of the 72 at Darlington when pacing the NASCAR Southern 500 back in 2015. This was the experience of a lifetime. dice app online By far my favorite one. Going down pit lane with the pit box LED signs waving on the left and the field coming by on the right at the same time. Life was Good!
  9. Ok, hopefully other years are acceptable. How about over the hood of my 67 at Indy. I need to look for some 72 over hood shots. statewide auto sales california
  10. Looks like you are making great progress. With quality attention to detail. Great work. Spent the past several minutes getting myself back up to speed on your posts. Looks great! Something to be proud of for sure.
  11. Looks great! It is the fun part to re-assemble. All those cleaned up parts going back onto a fresh shiny paint job. I really enjoy that part. Hope you do too.
  12. Progress looks great Mike. That is an awesome restoration you are doing.
  13. As noted above West Coast Cougar refinishes the mirrors. They have a lengthy video on their site about the process removal and replacement. Had mine done 3 years ago and very happy with it.
  14. He has rebuilt several for me and I have been very happy with the end result. I hope you are as well.
  15. Here is how I have mine routed. 351 2v non-AC. Heater hose routes next to the choke housing to help warm the spring as the engine coolant temp rises.
  16. I have used both Classic Tube and Inline Tube with good luck and products. I would buy the rear drum set for now. The kit may come with the correct lines to convert to disc. I have always purchased the mild steel sets vs. stainless.
  17. Lots of good discussion on this and valid points offered from multiple perspectives. Which is all good and hopefully helps you make your decision as it sounds like in your last post you may have. If you go in expecting to make a bag full of money on the resale of a 71-73 it may be a little earlier than the market is ready for. These are still slow on the investment growth, but in my opinion making some noticeable improvements in the mustang market. As others have mentioned the earlier body styles are getting somewhat out of reach for reasonable buyers and their attention starts to move up the years to find one they are interested in and can afford. The 71-73 body is more of a dramatic departure from the "mustang" lines and either you love/like them or you probably won't. Having said that, I love them and have for all of my driving years. If you don't feel the passion in your blood for it than it becomes a dollars and sense question and only you can answer that question for yourself on what make sense for you and your budget. Either way, I hope the information shared so far has given you some factual information to draw from and you make the best decision for yourself.
  18. The drain holes are part of the manufacturing process. When the body is bucked and completely assembled in bare steel the bodies were dipped in a primer tank to cover the bare metal. As the body rose from the tank this allowed for drainage of the primer from the body back into the tank
  19. The only way to correctly open up the cowl is to remove the front wind screen and drill the 1 million spot welds that hold the cowl cap on. This will give you full access to the cowl. Before going this route I would suggest climbing under the dash with a bright light and remove the two air box vent assemblies that bolt to the bottom of the cowl. These are the typical problem areas and will tell you the extent of the issue. If you have AC going under the dash is not an easy task.
  20. The deadener I believe 7173 is referring to is the sprayed in foam/adhesive that is applied to the under hood panel prior to it being bonded to the top hood panel. This is done to keep the panels separated and avoid metal on metal contact and the rattling sound from that. If this bonding material is gone, you will know it driving down the road and the hood top skin will flex up and down and you will probably hear some metal rattling sounds when you close it. You may need to look into this a little deeper and find out from your dipper if his process removes that (I would think so) and if there is a way to reapply some solution for it being gone.
  21. I prefer the forum. The credibility of the folks here is more genuine than (in my opinion) those who just jump in and out of Facebook with politically charged comments and the opportunity to cus more than contribute.
  22. Best wishes on your timeline and project. If you keep your self energized you could make good progress. Is this your first rebuild? Will you doing most of it yourself or farm out the major rebuilds like trans/Diff/engine? Those might be items that slow you down if you have not had experience with them before.
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