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Everything posted by bkdunha

  1. I would say so. Don't think standard reservoir will give you enough pressure to clamp a disc brake caliper.
  2. Just went to their website from doing a Google search for GlassRenu and they have a map showing glass companies with their products across the US. I sent an email to the closest one to me to see what pricing might be. I also have some scratches in my side glass that if reasonable to get done I would like to give it a shot. That was mt last 2 point deduction at the MCA in Augusta, GA.
  3. This is from a concourse restoration forum I also belong to. Several very positive comments on this system. Concourse Forum post: I was looking into this concept again earlier this summer when I pulled all of the frames off of my side glass and began to clean all of them up, I was rather shocked to see how truly horrible they really were! I had already realized an issue on the inside of my back glass about a year or so ago and now have two date correct back glasses, BOTH with some rather serious scratches so I began to doubt I could ever find a set of dated windows for my Coupe that would be worth installing in the project. ALL 7 windows NEW, and adding the dates to them seem to be absurd, I know I have no choice on the windshield but my budget would never allow for ALL NEW GLASS on the whole car. FIRST: I tried finding a glass shop to do polishing. No luck. I tried local car restoration shops and the Internet for somebody in the 100 mile radius to take them to and nobody even returned calls or emails. Then, like others, I tried the $80 Eastwood Deep Scratch Kit and using a drill motor, results were essentially a swing and a miss. 2nd, I tried the same Eastwood kit on a buffer/polisher and had a friend who does granite/monument work and his guy gave the same window I had worked on about an hour, then gave it back saying he's not interesting in doing more. It had signs of improvement but the outlook for doing all of the glass was very grim at best. Once again, I went to the Internet and found a guy named Pedro in Florida doing a YouTube video and it looked like not only him, but there were companies and individuals everywhere doing glass polishing successfully with similar discs like the ones found in the Eastwood kit and/or cerium oxide (powder or solution)... on buildings at least, and the results looked rather amazing, not causing distortion in the final product either. Yet, when I tried calling anyone, even Pedro of Florida, no return calls or emails when I stated I wanted to do Classic Car Glass. I believed now that the real issue was Liability. Nobody wanted to take a chance on my "Classic Car. Date-Correct Glass". Eventually, one guy somewhat local to me, DID call me back at least. He said he ONLY did architectural work (on buildings) and was only insured for the same but was having extremely good success using the GlassRenu System on those jobs. I had already looked into GlassRenu Systems, I had even given them a call and asked for recommendations for local companies (this is where I got the name of the guy who ended up calling me back from). So, I tried rolling the dice again. This time, I bought GlassRenu's "Professional Grade Scratch Removal System" (cost $250 +shipping). BINGO! Now, it was recommended to use a variable-speed buffer in the many YouTube Videos on GlassRenu that I had watched and the variable buffer most often recommended was a Mikita variable-speed. I liked and trusted this choice since they offered the "numbers" on the wheel to help you to get to the correct RPM's for maximum success. Having bought that too, I am over $500 into this mess...So much for saving money, right? The difference now is that I am successfully removing EVERY deep gouge and every single scratch and I am actually succeeding in removing sand-damage too! (My car was in the desert area all of it's driven life). If you want to spend the money on new glass, that may be the "easy button" but since I was also hoping to retain all of the original glass without ALSO having the added cost/time to add in the etchings onto new glass, I feel it was the best choice to just buy this kit. Be sure to set aside a weekend or three. You can put between 1 to 3 hours each window. (Actually less on some that have minimal issues). I think the time spent depends on how brave you are in process. You kinda learn as you go along what works best on what kind of damage so the learning curve may vary. My glass at this time is progressing very well. The BLACK DISCS sent in the kit really do a lot of major work getting the glass readied for polishing, they are probably the most effective part of the process in the scratch removal process. Now, I have found some very deep pits from rock/gravel impacts that would take more time to remove but I have removed some VERY DEEP GOUGES, all minor sand-damage pitting and even DA sander damage (looked like 80-grit Da sander kissed a window at one time) and ALL of that came out 100% perfect in my opinion...NO DISTORTION I can detect at all. The "Grey Discs" are the most "consumable" item in the kit. I have since bought a 2nd 10-pack. My glass was in some cases as bad on the insides as it was on the outsides and I did not wish to use the black disks much at first, for fear of them being to aggressive but in hind-sight...I could have saved time and money had I chose to just do the whole window areas with extreme damage, using the black discs FIRST. You should like the results. I really struggle to notice any issues at all with the glass now and everything I find wrong, a bit more time seems to ALWAYS remedy the problem...As I said, my glass was BAD NEWS, REALLY BAD NEWS to begin with! The hardest choice I made was whether or not to buff through a Carlite Logo on the wing vents since the sand damage was on the logo-side of the glass on them. One side vent, I buffed through the damage including the logo etching and the other side, I did not (yet) buff through the logo but you can still make out the sand-damage. You will likely have similar choices If you are thinking about this, do a search on YouTube for "GlassRenu" and watch some of the videos. « Last Edit: September 13, 2018, 08:10:55 AM by 67gtasanjose »
  4. Glad it all worked out. Do you have the persons name? I may know him from local car shows and mustang community.
  5. Rossville is 10 minutes from me. Not sure how I can help but if you want I can attempt. What is his name?
  6. Heacock Insurance is providing the following advice to customers: Dear Valued Customer, With the impending Hurricane Florence in the Atlantic Ocean, I encourage you to take immediate steps to prepare for the high winds and torrential rain that has been predicted to accompany this dangerous storm. Although the final path has yet to be determined, now is the time to make plans. If you feel your current storage location is not adequate to protect your car, we encourage you to seek an alternate location. One solution is an elevated parking garage where you can park your car in a central space. This will keep it safe from the rising waters while protecting your car from the rain. Heacock Classic will also provide up to $250 in expense reimbursement for costs you may incur to move and protect your car. For your personal safety, remember to never drive through flooded roads. Although you may think it�s safe, roads can become washed out and dangerous very quickly. If you do have to report a claim, rest assured our claims department will be available 24 hours a day to respond to your needs. Please feel free to contact me or one of the Heacock Classic team members if you have any questions. Sincerely, Jim Kruse Director, Heacock Classic
  7. bkdunha

    New Guy

    Welcome from west Tennessee. We have several members in the NE US as well as Canada. Look at the Member map under Fun Stuff. Search for Pastel Blue in the forum for his J code 429 convertible. He is in your area. Keep in touch as you dig into your project and dont hesitate to share your experience and ask questions of others. This is a great family friendly group of the most knowledgeable 71-73 folks you will find.
  8. AMEN for all of our southeast coastal members. Noticed in another forum that folks were offering storage if they had it for anyone who may be impacted to bring their car. I am just east of Memphis, but if needed I can offer up some enclosed spots I have to store up to 3 cars (temporarily). If others are closer to the southeast I also ask that you see if you can offer something up. Plenty of hotels in this area as well so you could drop the car here and stay close. Everyone be safe!
  9. Have not seen it done in a 71-73 yet. Would not recommend using stock front buckets maybe an earlier model 67-68 bucket without headrests. Would require pretty extensive work to make it look right.
  10. Congrats on making plans to build the shop you want. Do all of your zoning research first and then get the largest variance you could possibly want. I currently have a 36x28 and it is not big enough. When it was built in 2003 the plan was for a lift that I finally purchased in January 2018. Whats 15 year ( a long d*!@ time). I would render up several drawings with all the feedback you are getting. You will need these to apply for your variance as well as it helps put things on paper the way you want them. I would also agree with Chuck on the 4 post. They offer a lot of flexibility on what you can do with them. My ceiling is 18 foot above the lift. [attachment=47803]
  11. YIKES! From one cheesehead to another that takes some big ones to start up like that. I would be behind the truck watching that one fire off.
  12. I would also recommend both front and rear glass be removed. It aids in the stretching for installation and long term quality and fit. Without overlapping the window flange with time it will relax and become very loose lengthwise in the car. I would talk to your upholstery person. Maybe remove yourself and have the car flatbed towed to his shop. Have a mobile glass installer come in and install after headliner is in place.
  13. I am excited that I was selected to be judged at MCACN (Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals) this coming November in Chicago. This is another one of those bucket list shows I have always wanted to participate in. There are some great cars displayed there every year. This year is to include some very notable mustangs Lil Red, The Green Hornet, and the original Bullitt car. It is the weekend before Thanksgiving for anyone around the Chicago area. Really looking forward to this one. [attachment=47783]
  14. Yes, looks like you are right! I’m going to weld a washer in the whole to get the right fit to the small screws! Txs Harald It may be worthwhile to just weld in some metal versus a washer and then drill a small hole. They are course threaded screws so it should bite on a small pilot hole. It would need to be a very small washer and hard to weld.
  15. Just to add to this great flow of information. Sometime back I was requested to post the original 8 Track that came with the car when delivered. Definitely some interesting songs back in the day. Here is the vid. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-72-am-8-track-and-tape?highlight=8+track+tape
  16. Another possibility is running over sized tires sticking out beyond the quarter back in the 70's. Could have used all of that suspension to get the back end up high enough for that. Either way, as all have indicated that is all added on stuff and needs to go if you want original. Also keep in mind, visually from the factory all of the fastbacks sat a little low in the rear compared to the front. A heavier weighted leaf will help level it out more. If you have the chance look at one of our cars going down the highway at speed front ends always look high compared to the back. Just air pressure on the front and stance in the back.
  17. I believe someone has modified your panel by drilling out the holes. Probably did the same to the mounting flange on the floor. It is not a large screw so you will either need to go back to the same bolts or have someone weld in some metal and re drill the holes on both the cover panel and the floor flange. Over 40 years people change things and if you want to go back to stock it can sometimes be a challenge.
  18. They did make a 15'" version as well. It was also a deep dish design. Have a set of those as well. A close up of mine on the stock steel wheel. [attachment=47782]
  19. Your picture is of a 67-70 rear seat. The sides have the interior light bezel on the side panel which was a 67 - 70 feature. This is my 67 FB rear seat. al2co3 name
  20. They are actually screws. That is not a correct installation in your picture. Best picture I could find of my seat. Your picture did not appear to have the chrome pockets for the rubber bumpers to rest in.
  21. Congrats! I needed to buy several sets as well to get 5 show worthy ones. Now on to the task of painting. UGH painting!
  22. I went back to the stock single exhaust, but for concourse it was required. I have had several judges comment that they do not see many 71-73 with single exhaust. The other bonus is that I found an original D2 muffler on eBay years ago that is also installed. [attachment=47765]
  23. Nice looking car. The coupes do have a following from an interest perspective but not much as an investment grade car. The fastbacks have a little more investment value more so when you get into the 428, 4 speed, bucket seat, CJ, Drag Pack, and Talledega models. There are several Facebook groups out there about Torinos and other mid-sized Fords and Mercury's of that era. Maybe look at some of them. If you are buying as an investment I would not expect much return. If you are buying because you like it you would get all the return you need just driving it.
  24. I would also get the second set if you can afford it. It will be good to have the trim ring portion and it will give you options in selecting the best center sections and best chrome around the 5 openings.
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