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Everything posted by bkdunha

  1. They were all the same with the exception of a darker raised center section in the 69 70 version versus the 71-73 section. I have seen several examples where people have polished the center sections after removing the paint.
  2. As far as I am aware they are all the same, but obtain measurements to confirm. The seat has a fair amount of adjustment in the mounting barckets both on the seat and if I recall on the floor mount. The side panels can also be shimmed in or out on their mounting points with washers on the inside. One observation I have made is that the original mounting holes in the brackets to attach the side panels are never the same after you get done fitting new carpet, quarter sail panels, side trim, etc. You may need to place your panels and drill some new holes for the attaching screws and bolts to get things to align better.
  3. I use the steel wool and sticky traps as well. I try to avoid poison that they eat as mudbilly indicated they end up dying somewhere and stink the place up as well as often time stain the surface they die on. Do not want them dyng in the car.
  4. Very very nice build you have here. It is great to see someone with your talents and friends and family who can help you along the way. Great to see you are getting a little closer. All good things come with time and patience and your dedication to both is showing through in the quality of this build. Good Job!
  5. If interested I found a person who can reproduce them. He has the ability to make them very very close to the originals with type font, spacing and block type following each number set.
  6. HemiKiller is correct. My build sheet reads 951B for an open 2:75. As others have indicated the Original door tag will show and the rear should have the attached tag. This is assuming all of these are still from the original car.
  7. Interesting story on an original owner purchasing his 71 Mach 1, selling it and re-acquiring it 28 years later. http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/classic-cars/he-bought-his-1971-mustang-mach-1-new-as-a-teenager-sold-it-to-his-uncle-and-bought-it-back-28-years-later/ar-BBLhgi7?ocid=ientp#image=BBLhiAt|1
  8. Welcome from West Tennessee. Fellow 72 owner as well.
  9. Let me tell ya! Went through a whole roll of tape painting 5 wheel covers. I first masked off the chrome trim around the 5 openings and painted the entire wheel black. I then came back and taped off the black area and over the chrome openings then scuffed and painted the raised Argent section. I used Eastwood Argent and Satin Black for wheels.
  10. It did not come with the fold down option. It appears you are missing the rear bulk head completely be it a folddown or not. The picture does not show the complete rear compartment area, but you need something installed to restore some bracing to the back of the car. Here is a picture of the rear bulk head for a foldown. Oh, and by the way my car was built about a week before yours 12/27/71 with a release date of 01/05/72.
  11. David, 69 & 70 have a darker raised section than the 71-72 models. Mercury also used the darker color for those years. 71 -72 utilize the argent on the raised section and black on the background. I will include some pictures of mine. [attachment=47666] Here is a 69-70 color [attachment=47667] Daylight shot [attachment=47668]
  12. What year is your car. Nothing 71-72 related
  13. Yes, you will be fine moving it with them off. I would not recommend driving any distances 1km or more in my opinion. I would also not recommend leaving it parked for an extended period with them off. Things tend to sag over time. Look at my waist line :)
  14. Soonerbilz, glad you found the information you needed. Learning is always a key aspect to these endeavors. It sounds like you have a solid foundation of knowledge and experience turning wrenches. Money is a big factor no doubt. Keep in mind that you can still compete at a very high level in showing without having a six figure income. To also help in consideration concourse MCA judging does not focus on part numbers and look for OE sheet metal. With those considerations you are in the Thoroughbred category which in my opinion does requires significant money. Congrats to you for doing your homework first. Do the restoration to the degree you would like and always know this group is here to help out in any way we can.
  15. No the braces have 2 bolts each at the other end that bolt to the cowl of the car Circled in this picture [attachment=47634]
  16. You should be fine removing them while the car is on the ground. The bolts for the shock tower mount are captured bolts in grooves on the top of the shock tower. They only hold the shock so nothing will come flying off. The cowl bolts can be a bit tricky if you car has had some body damage or rust. Sometimes putting a jack under the floor support brace (with a 2x4 to avoid denting it) will relieve any strain or bind on the bolts mounting to the cowl. My wife is over in Paris right now. If you need help, I can send her your way. JUST Kidding.
  17. So the wifey is out of the country AGAIN for work. She has been very understanding over the past couple of years with regards to all of the car projects and car purchases. She has been reluctantly OK with parking outside of the garage as I have to much car stuff all over the place in both garages. So, I spent alot of quality time in the garage last night doing a full exterior detail on the 2011 Durango. Did a clay bar cleaning then a full polish and the 1 of two coats of sealer wax. Second coat will go on tonight before turning to the interior. For 7 years old and almost 150k miles it is holding up pretty good. Hopefully we can get several more years out of the old girl.
  18. To add to the prior posters. First you need to know your skill levels in all of the required areas of doing a true restoration. Basically, can you build a car? I will say I cannot do paint & body and truly know that is a skill I will never poses. I farmed out my paint and body to a shop I heavily researched before dropping the car off. The search for parts can be daunting but very rewarding when you find that NOS part and get a reasonable price. Those days are starting to slip away quickly as the 71-73 models come more into the light of appreciation in the marketplace. I was comfortable moving forward from the completed shell to finish the build and outsourced the engine machining. A close friend very skilled at engine assembly assisted with the engine build. I have been very honored to achieve 4 of 4 MCA Golds in class CDE (Driven Concourse). Each time I have been judged I took their feedback and made improvements in the areas of note. This was my first and final concourse build (i think). I always knew in my heart and soul I would restore this car to concourse. Having accomplished that it is now time to move on to enjoy builds and restorations to the degree I want. Some pictures to back up my story. This is was the low point of the build This is what I started with to work on in my garage This is the built car, but they are never done Always remember to do the build as you want to do it after knowing and understanding what is involved to get it to that level. Once you set your goal write it down and post a sign with it in your garage. You will be tempted many times to veer from your goal as the build progresses. Finally, HAVE FUN! If you are not enjoying the overall process you are doing it for the wrong reasons!
  19. Read through the analysis report. Interesting information. I am a bit skeptical based upon it being a competitor marketing their wares. I am going to see if I can find anything from a neutral reviewer.
  20. I have been contemplating it in my 72 as well. I like the idea of corrosion protection for the coolant system. I do use distilled water in my system, but change out about every two years. I know you can test the conductivity of the water with an ohms meter, but I am just set on every 2 years. I have seriously been considering to change over to the Evans. One thing I have heard is that it does not offer the same freeze protection temps that coolant offers. Living in the south that is less of an issue.
  21. I will get his email for you. All of our communication has been through Facebook forum. I have purchased several items from him and he is a good guy. Mind you that he is proud of his stuff every now and then, but usually willing to take offers. These are colors I am thinking. If you know of the Cale Yarboroughs and Dane Gurney (color code cars) you know the two tone. Take that with the bottom being House of Kolor Brandywine Pearl and the top being 2014 BMW Frozen Bronze Matte. All the chrome will stay on the car and the interior will either be black or a brown to match the bronze. Tending to lean towards black as I have many black interior parts already. Here is the two tone layout and below are the colors of choice (at this point) House of Kolor Brandywine Pearl BMW Frozen Bronze Matte
  22. Chuck, I have a great contact in Texas not far from you (close to the state line) that is always finding these cars in Oklahoma. In fact the Montego I just hauled to Atlanta came out of OK. If I can drag you into the abyss with me come on. :) Better yet, I just send you my Cleveland and with your expertise you can build the motor I am wanting to get too.
  23. To share from another forum and the hard work of others. These are updated listings from an earlier post. This post appeared in the Concourse Forum and I thought I would share for others to use as a starting point or a validation tool. I have not looked it over so I cannot attest to the validity. Others can offer up there observations of the listings as I know this has been discussed before on markings and finishes of hardware from various suppliers. HARDWARE NOTES Concourse Forum 3.doc AMK GUIDE TO FORD FASTENERS01.xls MHW71-73AP05 71 73 Hardware Concourse Forum 1.xlsx MHW71-73PN05 71 73 Hardware Concourse Forum 2.xlsx
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