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Everything posted by bkdunha

  1. I was just starting a serach for Media Blasting. First on the undercoating issue. I used a heat gun and putty knives to scrape off most of my undercoating. It does a good jub and after a couple of minutes you get the hang of it and can get some good sized areas cleaned up fast. Now my question is what media have others used? I recently bought a blast cabinet at Harbour Freight for $180 and I am ready to start cleaning and detailing all the parts I can. What media do others use to cleanup suspension parts, various underhood brackets, etc? I have been searching the web and have heard of Black Beauty, Star Blast and others. Any advice is appreciated? Brian
  2. I have attached one of the 1984 pictures when I bought it. Car is currently undergoing a complete Concourse Driven restoration with all factory markings I can locate and duplicate.
  3. FunforFree, Glad your heart is in it to save this car. If the major rust is concentrated in the front you may want to consider a solid donor car. If you can find a similiar 71 or 72 car that was rearended you may be in luck. Don't go with a 73 front clip as they were modified for the low speed impact bumpers. The repro parts are hard to find and cost alot. Sometimes you can find a whole donor car for less than new repro parts. New repro parts are not always as good as the Ford originals for metal gauge and fit. You sometimes spend more time and money in labor getting repro parts to fit versus searching for a quality used original. I might have a parts car in the workings that I considered to use as a shell for my restoration. If it comes through I will et you know. Again, kudos for your decision to give this car another chance. Be patient, be persistant and things work out over time. Heck, it has taken me 25 years to get my car headed down the right path. Brian D.
  4. Very well said B..I'm in the same boat as you with mine..Anything can be fixed & brought back all it takes $$$$ You got an amazing deal for the work you had done although you didn't receive a finished (not paint & body work) product..You still have to do all the finish work (weld grinding,primer,seam sealing) to the structual repairs which is where the real time & $$$$ are. So you can add about $3500.00 + materials for that work your going to do yourself & you didn't include your labor prior to sending the car out...so lets round it out, your looking at least $10,000.00 for that type of job to deliver a finished product. Q, agreed this will definitly be an investment of my time and $$$ appropriate savings. Working on the cars is my therapy. Sure we may cuss and feel dejected at times, but we always come back to it knowing we will figure it out and enjoy the end result. My time working on the car is better than sitting on the couch not doing anything positive.
  5. Saw several recent posts regarding Sprint package cars and it got me thinking about a shell I went to Texas to buy instead of doing all of the restoration to my original car. I went to Texas for a family event and the night we arrived they received 6" of snow in March 2010 and the next day was raining, windy and cold. I could not justify driving in that weather with my 20' trailer and then try loading this car out of the field it was in. I just emailed the guy back this morning to see if he might still have the body. Photos he sent me in March of last year showed it to be a pretty clean southern shell. If I hear back from the guy I will update this post in case anyone may be interested or need parts. The price last year was VERY reasonable
  6. Very cool pictures. Thank you for posting. I really do like the 71 - 73 mustanf funny car bodies. It would be really cool to find one somwhere stashed away in a warehouse or barn. I think my next project car will be a pro-street Mach 1, with a blown cleveland. I have the cleveland ready for the blower and a narrowed 9" sitting in the garage right now. Its just time and the preverbial MONEY. Again great pictures!
  7. I hate to say this but $800.00 wasn't such a good deal looking at those pictures..Welcome to the world of north east mustang hell. There's no cheap fix unless you do the work yourself & even then your looking thousands..You made a mistake Thats the reality period...My advice..part it out (maybe you will break even after you factor in your labor) & find something better to start with..That car is nothing special or anything worth putting the money into. If the rail & floor looks like that it's a sure bet the cowl area is just as bad..Take it from someone who knows.. check my website & you will see whats required to repair that car www.saturdaymorninggarage.com B..he's looking for a cheap fix..Tell him how much you have into it including the shop that did the work & you should put a dollar amount on your labor that was required before you sent the car off (to be accurate)..Thats no cheap fix you did :cool: I would agree that it is not a cheap fix and involves a professional, but at the same time I had many people tell me my car was to far gone to restore when I bought it in the 80's. Needless to say I did not listen to them and to this day I am glad I made that decision. Each person needs to make their own personal decision on the amount they want to invest in restoring or saving their car. We all know the stories of projects that either chewed through the owners wallet quicker than one could imagine. We also know of the projects where a significant amount of money has been spent only to reach a dead end and come to a screaching halt. Q I would agree that your years of experience and knowledge in body work does make you more informed than me and I would place credit in your advice. At the same time, my car holds a special place in my life being the first car I ever owned, started dating my wife in and something my father and I worked on together to bring it to driveable condition when I was in High School. Lord permitting, I will never sell this car and look at it as a significant piece of my life that I would like to save and pass down to my son when it is the right time. Not all cars hold that place in peoples lives. So my choice is to save it and bring it back to its former glory as time and savings permit. Just to provide some frame of reference to fonforfree, I replaced the front clip, floor pans, trunk floor, inner and outer wheelhouses, qtr. panels and rear rails for $5,000. This includes the purchase price of all of the parts. My situation may not be a good investment decision, but this car will never be sold and has more sentimental and family value than any other material possession I have.
  8. Funforfree, I experienced the same problem with my 72. My recommendation would be to find a solid donor car. Coupe, Fastback or convertible does not matter as they all have the same front clip from the firewall forward. They recently starting reproducing the front rails, but they are more expensive than sometimes buying a whole parts car. I recently noticed a front clip for sale on eBay. i will see if I can find the posting. I ended up replacing the entire front clip on my car as well as the rear rails. You will need to find a reputable body shop with a frame jig to do the replacement. I have a guy in Atlanta that did my work. You need a jig to put the car on to obtain measurements prior to cutting it apart so they can properly install the new pieces. Don't want to be driving down the road at an angle. Either way, it is a pretty extensive repair, but worth the investment if you are wanting to keep the car. I will attach a photo of mine in process.
  9. Congratulations! to both you and your daughter. It is great to see a hobby where all generations can get involved and keep it as family oriented as possible. I am doing the same with my 10 year old son. We took the 67 out to a show this weekend and also won a 1st place trophy. My son commented it was a "perfect, perfect day." You know 10 year olds. Anyhow, congratulations again to your daughter and I am sure a very proud papa.
  10. Great to see everyone contributing to the Build Sheet decode. Thank you to John for seeing an opportunity to help the 71 - 73 cummunity on this one. John has my build sheet plus a few more I have gathered over time from other folks. I have been trying to find the spare time to compile and cross reference this information and have shared what I know so far with John. Hopefully, through our collective efforts we can compile an accurate accounting for everyone. Its great to see other folks finding a valuable piece of history specific to their car. Their is no better opportunity to truly find out how your car was equipped from the factory other than the build sheet. Understandably, the 71 -73s were treated to a lot of dealer installed upgrades. Your build sheet is definitly the factory delivered vehicle.
  11. On the rear defroster subject. Anyone have a working relay for the rear defroster? My switch and wiring are good, but back in 1999 my relay shorted out and the window overheated. I saw the smoke starting to roll up from behind the sail panel on the drivers side and immediatly disconnected the fuse. Problem is that when I went to pull in the driveway immediatly after that the body twisted and the back windshield exploded. I was pretty mad as that was the original glass. I was able to find what I was told to be one of the last NOS carlite defroster back glass around. Paid good money for the glass in 99 and have not really driven the car since then. Don @ OMS: Do you know if the cougar relay would also work in the mustang?
  12. Chuck, Count me in as well if you are arranging a club visit. For a collection like that the 6 hour drive each way is worth it. I will PM you as well.
  13. I agree with Jorgem. I have two that I store clevelands on as well. One I bought years ago on sale. It is 3 wheeled and has difficulty supporting the engine. It drops down in front to the degree that I put a 2x4 support under the front of the block. I have the second one on a stand from Harbor Freight and it works great. It is yellow and rated at 1000lbs with the four casters. I bought it about 6 months ago when I pulled the cleveland 4 barrel out of my car. I know Harbor Freight also has a folding one, just can't comment on its quality. I always use the 20% off coupons I get in Mustang Monthly and other magazines. We have a store here in Memphis and that makes getting things alot better than shipping. I would recommend the Harbor Freight option as well.
  14. Scott, I can appreciate your perspective. I honestly have to say though that bringing something back from the past has some value to me. Yes, you can go the route you bring up, but It will always be a clone. It will drive and ride nice and will probably out perform an original in all aspects. It is just knowing that you have located a rare car and brought it back to its former self that is worth the challenge and expense to me. I honestly will probably never have the opportuinity to experience this, but the hope and the dream are what keeps me going. For now the enjoyment and sentiment of my current cars keeps me a happy person.
  15. Welcome from a relocated cheese head. Grew up in Kenosha and found my 72' there. Now live in TN and do not miss the snow and could one bit. Cost of living is also better down here. Leaves a little more money to spend on the cars.
  16. To share an interesting story. I know of and have seen a 68 Shelby GT500 KR (1 of 582) sitting in a storage trailer about 3 hours drive from my house. The gentlemen has had it since 78 when the original owner sold it to him after a minor impact to the nose of the car that split the fiberglass above the grill. Everything is with this car including the hubcaps. It is blue with a white interior and top. Something got to the interior and chewed it all up, but it is all still there. Still has the original 428 Interceptor and fours speed in it. I call the guy periodically to see if he is ready to talk reasonable numbers for a shelby needing restoration. The guy keeps saying mid six figures. It will cost 100K just to restore to the right caliber so his figure is not reasonable. This is one of those guys that has several hundred very desireable cars and says that he is going to sell them to make his millions, but ends up sitting on them until they are so far gone they cannot be saved. I know we all know this story, but their has to be someway to get through to him. It may just be time. Almost three years now I have been calling him.
  17. found this video posted on CNN while checking the latest news. http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/us/2011/04/06/dnt.rare.nustang.found.kctv?hpt=T2
  18. Scott, Which one are you thinking about getting? The 1500 lb unit with hoists?
  19. Trying to find a used rotisserie for my current project. Anyone who has one they are no longer using or knows a contact with one would be appreciated. Thank you
  20. I would be glad to if I could figure that out and dedicate sometime to it. After next week I may have the time right now between family and work I am lucky to get a chance to even look at the stang. I will see what I can accomplish, but I do have every article.
  21. 72Q-code, I have all of the Lazarus articles and have set them aside for my resto. If you would like to PM me with your address I can put them on a disc for you. I will be traveling next week so it will need to be the week after that. I also explored the parkerizing and found several gun related websites that sell the same materials a little bit cheaper tham palmeto. I will be doing the same treatment to several of my parts. If you are an MCA member you can go to their website and download the judging rules for your year and it will indicate what pieces are oil phosphate treated. I plan to follow those for my restoration. Thanks for the advice last week regarding my weld cleanup questions. I have started on it this past weekend after scraping a pile of undercoating off with a heat gun. Next is to apply Rust Bullett and Lizardskin the interior floor pan and wheelhouses.
  22. If you need a front clip for your restoration this one is currently listed on eBay. I do not know the seller, just saw the listing and thought it may be interesting to others. Scored a AM/FM 8-Track last night for $50 in good shape including the knobs. Posting said radio and lights worked but unsure of 8-track. Even if that does not work it should be an easy fix. Front clip posting: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/71-72-73-Mustang-Cougar-Front-Shock-Towers-and-Subframe-/150573543864?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230ee1f1b8 Item number just in case: 150573543864
  23. I have a friend whos family owned a ford dealership until the early 80's. His father informed me that there were trim guys that would travel throughout a multi-state area adding vinyl roofs to whatever car a customer wanted. I suspect this may be an installation done by a previous owner and not as a factory installation. Just my thought.
  24. I am going to try and post a link in this posting that contains photos showing the history of my car from when I first purchased it at age 15 for $600 bucks to its current state following sheetmetal work. I completed an eye candy restoration in High School to be able to drive it during the midwestern summers. Heck I had to work all year just to afford the three months of insurance. If this link works to my Shutterfly account I will add additional posts as time goes by in completing my concourse driven restoration of this car. Try the link below (if it works) http://cmd.shutterfly.com/commands/pictures/slideshow?site=1972mach1restoration&page=1972mach1restoration/pictures&album=91
  25. Here is some information regarding your question on the 981B designation on your rear axle. This was located on the 429 site that has a link on this site as well. It is a great repository of information. While you may not have a 429, you still have a mustang and if it was a 71 or early 72 than the other restoration information is very helpfull. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/decoding.htm Rear Axle Decoding Axle ID Tag Axle Tags/Codes The "assembly code" (e.g., 982D) found on the paper tag on the axle is the same as is found on the metal axle tag (attached to a "pig" bolt) and on the build sheet. See picture above for details. This number is not the same as but is related to the "service code" (see chart below) for the axle (e.g., WFD-D). This is because the "service" code only identifies the contents of the pig and axle shaft size. The "assembly code" also IDs the vehicle application and brake size. 429 Mustang/Cougar Axle Service Code Chart Service Code Ratio Locking? Service Code Ratio Locking? Service Code Ratio Locking? WDO-M2 3.25 Y WES-AK 3.50 N WFU-E1 4.11 Y WES-AB2 3.25 N WFB-C2 3.25 Y WFD-F 3.50 Y WES-AD 3.25 N WFD-D 3.91 Y WFD-FZ 3.50 Y WES-AD2 3.25 N WFD-D2 3.91 Y WES-AE 3.50 N WES-AE2 3.50 N WFD-F2 3.50 Y WES-AK 3.50 N WES-AE3 3.50 N WFD-F3 3.50 Y WFB-C 3.25 Y WES-AJ2 3.25 N WFD-M2 3.25 Y WFD-A 3.91 Y WES-AJ3 3.25 N WFD-M3 3.25 Y WFD-M 3.25 Y I have only seen 3 digits and a letter making up the "assembly code." However, I could be wrong or ignorant because of a limited sample size. (Thanks to Dan Davis for this research and photo)
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