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bkdunha

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Everything posted by bkdunha

  1. The preceding contributions are with regard to build sheet coding are correct. The boxes below the identified componenent either identify a paint code or a tag id. I strongly recommend the Eminger invoice to everyone. It is the closest thing to the window sticker that was on your car. I purchased miner in the 90's and have stored it away safely ever since. It will tell you excatly what was on the car out of the factory. I have attached a picture of my build sheet and Eminger invoice below. They are both great research tools. I have done some sleuthing on the build sheets over the past year and can try and help if you come across any unknowns. They may still be unknowns to me as well. No one has produced a publication to date regarding build sheet decoding. 1972 Eminger & Build Sheet.pdf
  2. Need both right and left door shells for a 72. I do not need them to be in good shape. I do need them to have the inner structure for the deluxe interior inclusive of the speaker holes. The bottoms can be rusted and the exterior dented. Actually the worse the condition of the door the better as I need them on the cheap. I only need the interior metal that is behind the door panel to weld into my existing solid doors. Please send me a PM if you have some doors to get rid of. If you are anywhere near west TN all the better so I can drive to get them vs. shipping.
  3. I always try to encourage quality suspension parts. Some areas you can get by without paying the extra $$$$, but where the rubber contacts the road aint one of them. You will constantly end up with alignment issues or rattles and bumps. The degree of your rebuild depends on what you want the car to do: good driver, show car or maybe auto cross. Look at Mustangs Plus, they tend to specialize in suspension components and have alot of pre matched kits to meet your needs and save a few dollars. I have bought springs from them in the past and have been very satisfied. Rebuilding your upper and lower arms does save some money with bolt in ball joints, but they can be of poor quality as well. In summary, do your homework on what you want the suspension to do and then shop for the best quality at the price you can afford.
  4. I had discovered this forum from the Mach1.com forum and wanted to drop in and introduce myself and gain some new 71-73 Mach 1 contacts. I have had my 72 Mach 1 as my first car at age 15 and have completed a budget restoration in high school so I could drive it. I am now undergoing a complete nuts & bolts restoration. The car just recently underwent extensive frame a sheetmetal replacement to get rid of the ravages of midwest salt where I lived when I bought her in 1984. She has not seen salt since then, but the damage was already done and only progressed over the years while in storage. I will include a few photos to introduce myself. My car was originally sold in Ogden, UT in January 1972, build date of 12/23/71. It was ordered from a customer order and not to inventory. Here are stats on my girl: 3510-2v H-Code Mach 1 Medium Lime Metallic - 4F Black Deluxe Interior Competition Suspension Pkg AM 8 Track stereo Front spoiler rear wing FMX Automatic 9" 3:00 open diff. Single exhaust Sport Wheel Covers I look forward to sharing and learning with the forum as I complete my concours driven restoration. 1984 When I bought her. Total cost $600 Just Before teardown in 2010. Coming home from Atlanta 02/18/2011 Example of what the end product will look like. Goal is a completion date of January 2014. Ready for the 50th Anniversary.
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