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Everything posted by Flatback72

  1. Well 1sostatic, you did pretty good with the Aussie slang, but here's a more accurate rendition of the example above using some Aussie phrasing: "Gunna chuck a sickie, say hooroo to the oldies and bugger off up to the back of Bourke with me mates to hoon around in the scrub . I'll take a shrewd guess that we're all gunna get as dry as a dead dingo's donger, so we'll load up the Ute with an Esky fulla stubbies and cheap plonk; me and me mates'll sink so many coldies that we'll have a real rip-snorter of a time and be magotted by mid-arvo." Just in case our International colleagues can't make any sense of the Aussie, here is my attempt at a UK translation of the phrases above: "I am going to politely excuse myself from my daily occupational activity, say a delightful cheerio to Mother Dearest and Father, and take the Bentley up to Cornwall with the dapper chaps from the croquet club where we will no doubt participate in some playful high spirited capering amongst the bracken. I will make a polite but informed guess that a strong thirst may arise, causing our lower facial cavities to forthwith become as dry as an Englishman's bath-towel; therefore we will ensure that Sir Henry's lorry is capaciously furnished for the expedition with lashings of Newcastle's Brownest Warm Ale. We shall perhaps imbibe far too much of these fine spirits that by the equinox of the afternoon we shall indeed all be giggling flirtatiously like giddy rosy-cheeked Winchester College schoolgirls...."
  2. Do Brit's say "I'm on vacation", or do you normally say "I'm on holidays" like us Aussies do? (or sometimes we call it annual leave) And I'm wondering, do you get four weeks annual leave like we do, or do you have only the two weeks like some of our harder-working international cousins ??
  3. Thanks guys, you got it in one, I have damaged the turn signal switch. I remembered that quite a few years ago I had bought a brand new turn signal switch off ebay for "just in case" insurance, though it took some determined ferreting around in my basement to find it. Unplugged the turn signal from under the dash and plugged in the new one and everything was back to normal. Will install the new switch later in the week now that I know it will fix the problem. Mental note for next time: leave the indicator and lights off next time I install a globe.... :chin:
  4. Well I drove home tonight, lights and flashers working fine. Before going inside I thought I might check if the rear lights were functioning properly. Everything was working properly, but I noticed on the far left that a portion of my "plasma" LED tail light globe was a little flaky. So I ran inside, grabbed another plasma globe. I still had the lights on and the left flasher working when I swapped out the globe, which was clearly a mistake. Because when I inserted the globe I put it in backwards first up, and while it did briefly light up, it was clear I had inserted it backwards as the globe wouldn't spin into position because of the staggered pins being in the wrong orientation. So I spun it around and inserted it correctly, all good, the taillight lit up and the rear flasher functioned normally. However, when I disengaged the flasher lever, the rear flasher stopped but the front flasher was running all by itself. Also the headlights were out. I traced the headlight problem to a severely burnt out inline fuse. When I had put the rear globe in backwards I surmise it shorted out somehow.... But that front left indicator still now blinks all by itself when the ignition is turned on and the flasher lever is in the off position. Moving the flasher lever to the left gets the rear light flashing normally in unison with the front. Moving the lever to the right gets the right flasher working properly, but the front left keeps blinking at the same time. Turning on the hazard flashers works correctly, and the hazard flasher unit correctly overides the turn flasher unit above the glovebox, so I don't think this problem has anything to do with the hazard circuit. So in summary, is there any electrical guru's out there that would know why a front flasher light would operate by itself with the indicator lever in the off position??
  5. I had to put Australian Standard three point seat belts in mine to get the engineering report complete for registration in Victoria, here is the link to a thread I contibuted to way beck when: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-seat-belt-update-72-mustang?highlight=seat+belts Australian brand Hemco belts worked great for me, fronts are part numbers 1790001SP 99/90° (9 degree) Inertia L/S with 200mm Drop Link and item number 1765333 for the 300mm Stalks. For rears you would have to find a different solution to what I did seeing that you don't have a parcel shelf to attache to but you'd probably find a good bit of metal behind the sail panels to stick a seat belt mounting plate behind.
  6. My car was May 1972, so I had just turned 6 years old. I bet when the first owner bought the car it wouldn't have entered his/her thoughts that there was a kid in Australia half a world away waiting in sombre moody anticipation to become the middle-aged custodian of the vehicle.
  7. I've got a 13" steering wheel and have the exact same problem. Once on the highway I blasted my horn furiously at someone who pulled out of a side road in front of me, half a mile later down the road I found my indicator had been running for the previous half hour and that car driver had thought I was indicating a turn. Felt like a real heel after that incident.... I've toyed with the idea of putting an indicator LED in line of sight under the back raised edge of the hood, just never gotten around to it.
  8. You know it's a cheap and nasty film when the CGI 71-72 Mustang turns into a 1970 Mustang when it's being blown up.....
  9. As it's my birthday today too, sending your car over to me in Australia would make an appropriate birthday present..... :whistling:
  10. My old 1970 Mustang had instrument lights that looked green and so did my '72. Upgraded to the blue LED's, they were useless when used in conjunction with the domes, so removed the domes and they were better, but was not a fan of the blue and still weren't as bright as I would have hoped. Now running the green LED's without the dome covers, and to me it pretty much looks like the same green that the factory globe'n'dome combination, except brighter and really easy to see the instruments. If using the colored LED's, my advice would be to ditch the domes altogether.
  11. I put the Leed Brakes front disc kit on mine. Runs 65-67 Mustang calipers/pads attached onto the drum brake spindles with an adapter plate, uses 65-67 Mustang discs, 70-73 wheel bearings/races, and a 70-73 brake booster. Drum brake pedal needs alteration to have a new pin 2 inches lower than the drum brake pin. The hot tip is: buy a brake light switch to suit power brakes rather than leaving in the manual brakes switch. The switches look identical but the power brake switch has a softer spring in it so it will activate earlier with the lesser force required on the pedal. A new switch will probably not come with any front brake kit that you buy.
  12. If that were my car I'd keep it and drive it just the way it is. It looks pretty damn tough!
  13. I bought the Leed Brakes front power disc kit and had it installed two weeks ago. Best thing I ever did to the car! Uses 67-68 Mustang rotors and 71-73 wheel bearings, and 65-66 Mustang calipers. With the front drums there was no intuition and no feel to the braking experience and braking towards corners was like guiding a barge. The new power brakes means you can head into corners stress free just like a normal modern car! I did hand mine over to a brake shop to install though, could have done it myself but lacked a bit of confidence to do so. The brake guy did remove the seat to get at the brake pedal for pedal removal and modification, but he didn't have to remove the steering column to do so. I told him to just cut an access hole in the existing firewall cover plate (it's only the thickness of a bit of tin) to create access for the power booster shaft, so there was no need for him to remove the whole pedal bracket assembly. One note that a kind person on this forum advised me, is that the holes where the power booster attaches through the firewall need the threads drilling out so the booster studs will go through them. These holes in the firewall are 3/8" threaded, so a 3/8" drill is needed just to get rid of the thread. Another note, the brake lights stopped working with the new brakes. Doing some research I found that there are two different brake switches used for power and drum brake cars. The switches look identical however the power brakes switch has a weaker spring in it than the drum brake switch so that it doesn't take as much force to activate it. Put the power brake light switch in and the brake lights work fine now.
  14. Ok, technically this should go under the video section of the forum, but it's more likely to be seen up here in the71-72 Mustang Talk section. A factory fresh Boss 351 with only 829 miles on the clock!
  15. I had to put three point seat belt in to get my fastback on the road in Australia. I drilled holes in the parcel shelf and placed a backing plate under the shelf for the retractor mechanism to bolt to and added a piece of drilled angle iron in for the lower part of the belt to bolt to. My car doesn't have fold down rear seat, if it did I would have had to find a different attachment method I think.
  16. Two days ago it was 113°F (45°C) in my city of Bendigo, Australia. Hurry up Autumn, I'm tired of looking at my car's paint melt and peel off when parked in the sun !!! :atomic: :atomic: :atomic:
  17. I am very jealous of that Torino, it is a survivor car in mint condition, never restored and apart from some minor decal wear it looks like it came off the production line yesterday.
  18. Yes, not a bad result for 250 employees. The factory that I work for makes these, so it's probably natural that so many workers with mechanical and vehicular interests are employed at my workplace.
  19. Not sure what the story was on the racer, somebody at my workplace must be into them. Whoever it is, they are very brave to be in that sport! The XU1 is a tribute car, but a bloody nice one though!
  20. No worries, glad you like the pics! Yes, the company I work for is pretty good to it's employees and we have some pretty good conditions :)
  21. Thanks! I did mention on the spec sheet that it was a Sprint, even included a pic of an unmolested Sprint when I submitted the car data sheet to the organisers, but they left the picture out when they printed the data sheet so nobody saw it.....
  22. The top 5 mods for my car are: 1. Adding the coupe winder mechanisms to the fastback so the rear quarter windows roll down. 2. A small subtle reverse camera mounted near the passenger sun-visor that points back to the passenger side blind spot (way less stress when changing lanes or merging in a right hand drive country) 3. Replaced upper control arms with mid-1970's to mid-1980's Australian Ford Falcon control arms, these are exactly the same configuration as Mustang control arms but have rubber bushes rather than the Mustang metal on metal standard variety, so a softer ride and no more squeaking. 4. Disc brake conversion kit (got them, but not yet installed) 5. Plasma tail light globes that doubled the brake and blinker light output.
  23. Sorry everyone, the links all worked last night in the preview but looks like google images dropped the ball shortly thereafter. I've moved them all to another image hosting site, let me know if these ones aren't working either....
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