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Everything posted by Flatback72

  1. Here's a pic of my c-stripes if you are looking for idea's:
  2. To pull my springs out I bought a pair of compressors off eBay the same as the ones in the picture below. I needed to cut 2 inches off the screws so they wouldn't hit the top of the tower. These can be a real pain because of the amount of turns the screws need to compress the spring, but I found a better way, and that was to apply the compressors to the spring while the car is still sitting on it's wheels. Using a bit of dexterity you can put each compressor on the spring with the wheel still on, putting the top clamps over the highest coil you can reach and the bottom clamp over the lowest coil and doing the screws up finger tight - then when you jack the car up the springs are already in their compressed state and no (or only a little) turning of the screws is required. This still may not be quite enough compression to get the spring out freely, so you can gain a bit more movement out of the control arm by undoing the three ball joint bolts and use a jemmy bar to lift the control arm just high enough to pull the wheel spindle out of the way and this will drop the control arm probably enough to pull the spring out.
  3. I wanted to buy off Don too, but his control arms are marked as out of stock on his website so I ended up ordering off Mustangs Unlimited instead. There were cheaper ones at Mustangs Unlimited that I could have bought, but they had a disclaimer saying the grease nipples on the ball joints were non functional and for display purposes only. I wanted functional grease nipples.
  4. Eminger invoice is a magnificent historical document if it's available for your car, and it should show every option and it's price on it. But it's a bit of a worry if items are going missing in the mail, because if the invoice goes missing you are never ever going to get an original again (I do think Marti does keep copies of the Eminger invoices when he sends them though)
  5. Greetings! ::welcome::
  6. Magnificent car, just magnificent.
  7. They are installed now so hard to check, but from what I could see they were quite symmetrical. I seem to recall my 70 Mustang and 75 Falcon had deeper clearance indents in the tower for the pivots on the control arm to rotate into, but I could be mistaken. Anyways, it all seems to work OK now, in fact with the new shocks, spring seats, ball joints and arms the car has never felt better to drive. On the drivers side I found that one of the original control arm bushes had chewed it's way out of the control arm, so it was the bush that was pivoting on one end and not the shaft inside it. Glad I caught that one before it killed me......:s
  8. I'd love to come, but I don't think my car will manage the Pacific Ocean too well and might not make it far past New Zealand. I did have the fortunate opportunity in January 1991 to visit Niagra Falls. It was magnificent, but very very very very cold......
  9. Thanks for the pics - I always like looking at what weird and wonderful cars turn up to these type of events!
  10. A word of warning. Bought some Scott Drake 67-73 upper control arms recently and was very happy with the quality. However, today when I was putting the second one on I noticed that there was severe interference between the back of the control arm and the tower - this was stopping the control arm from having free movement in each direction. To get them to fit I had to grind off the areas shown in the photo. I had put the first control arm in yesterday without checking the complete movement - so thought I'd better revisit that side, and sure enough that side was binding too. If I hadn't of noticed who knows what damage to my car it might have caused. So the bit of grinding I did sorted the problem out, but not cool Mr. Drake forcing me to modify your suspension components like that!
  11. Thanks 72HCODE, you've saved me the effort of trying to Ezy-Out a broken thread where there is no broken thread! I think the first thing I'm going to try to do is drill a new hole. With the knob being held tight in the door I may be able to wedge a screwdriver end or pliers in there to stop it moving enough to put a hole in it. If that doesn't work then I'll have to stare at it a little longer in order to work out a Plan B.....
  12. Hey thanks! I suspect it's solid cast too, but I've only got a ragged stump to look at so it's very hard to tell.
  13. Put in new passenger side upper control arm, ball joint and spring seat. Did a bit of future planning by grinding out the control arm ball joint rivits and replacing them with bolts, so next time I need to change my upper ball joints it will be hassle free. Also while I was in there I sliced half a coil off the spring hoping for about a 3/4" drop. When I put the car back on the ground the ride height was exactly the same as it was before the spring cut.....what the???? :huh: Before I start hacking more off the spring I'll do the other side of the car first, because I suspect the untouched higher spring on the drivers side is having an effect on the cut spring height on the passenger side. I know I should be buying heavy duty lowering springs instead of cutting, but never had any luck with this in the past as it is pot luck whether you get the right height you were looking for with a new pair of springs anyway......
  14. It's a good question why so much US muscle over here. I'm guessing it is because our automotive heritage was a spin-off from the US in the 60's and 70's with our main local car makers being Holden (Chev) and Ford. The problem is that we had muscle cars, but due to the small size of our population we suffered sorely from lack of choice in body styles, and we'd stare in envy at the US models knowing we couldn't easily get them because of the cost of importation and the hefty price to get them changed to right hand drive to make them legal to drive. But ten years ago our government showed a rare bit of wisdom by allowing cars over thirty years old to be registered and driven as left hand drive, and all of a sudden the US cars that we always lusted for could be owned without breaking the bank (also the Aussie dollar is now worth more than the greenback for the first time in thirty years). Interesting tidbit of info I read from an importer on the Aussie Mustang forum; he says that in the last 4 years 95% of Americans won't sell their classic car if they know it's going to leave the country. I obviously can't vouch for the veracity of this statement not being American, but I can certainly understand why people in the US would be upset about foreigners buying up a lot of their classics (didn't stop me from buying one though :P). It makes me wonder the importers keep it a secret from the cars owner that it's going to end up on the other side of the world.
  15. A few weeks ago I knocked my knee into the remote mirror knob and snapped it off. I bought another one from Mustangs Unlimited (weirdly about 2.5 times longer than the original) which has a small screw thread on the end. What I want to know is whether the original knob was screwed into its base, because when I look at where it broke off it is unclear if the knob was screwed in or whether the knob and base are one casting. If it was screwed in I'll persevere with a drill and an Ezy-Out to get the old screw out, but if the knob was cast on I'll just go straight ahead and drill and tap a new hole to suit the new knobs thread. Anyone here know - threaded or cast???
  16. No no no no no Mike!! my 72 has the really cool red light too!! :) And yes!! it is original of the car so... leru leruuuuu mine has it tooo!!! jeje Doesnt work by the way... :@ I voted 1971, but only because of the engine options. Damián, there is a way to get your seat belt light working again, see my original post here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-did-you-do-to-your-car-today?pid=20649#pid20649 . .
  17. You've posted a picture of my greatest secret fear; having car troubles in public in a car that is too cool to be seen to be having car troubles in public!
  18. My home town of Bendigo (Australia) had an invasion of Mopar's last Sunday, and they took over a few of the main streets in town. Here are some pics of the event with some classic muscle, plus a few Australian bred Mopar's that the US never saw:
  19. It's funny, a bloke at work today who hasn't seen my car yet told me he might have seen my car parked on the street on the weekend. He said "is your car yellow with a fat @ss?" (he didn't mean it rudely) I laughed and said yep, that'd be mine!
  20. I mentioned in an earlier post that on one of my very first drives a young bloke on the sidewalk bent down on one knee and gave the car three exaggerated "we are not worthy" bows. (this is Australia, so not a very common car here). Everywhere I go I get positive comments, and kids invariably asking me to do burnouts. The only people who are not partial to our cars seem to be the owners of the earlier models; and in fact twenty years ago when I owned a 1970 Mach 1 I didn't think much of the 71-73 models at all back then because of my bias. After I sold that car the intervening years changed my attitude and now i think these are the toughest and slipperiest Mustangs of the lot! Lower, wider and longer than the previous models, what's not to like about that! People still that complain that the power to weight ratio on these cars is their downfall have their mindset stuck in the factory specs of the 1970's. A few mods on the engine and you've left the factory specs far behind, so no argument there that I can see. One thing I think though is that these cars don't photograph as well as the earlier models because the lack of defining lines on the design makes them look a little bulky in pictures. When you are standing next to one though the body contours on these things are pretty incredible and sexy.
  21. Hi - great color dancebanana
  22. Lack of vision out the back and out the passenger side was the first thing I fixed when I got my car on the road. I put two cameras in with two screens mounted underneath the dash overhang. I think putting camera's on these cars is kind of uncool, so I made sure mine were as unobtrusive as possible. The rear camera I placed in the corner of the license plate bumper cut-out, and it can hardly be seen because the black license plate behind it hides it fairly effectively: The second reversing cam I originally placed inside the car behind the top of the passenger seat belt roof anchor point, and pointing it on the correct angle to view the rear passenger quarter blind-spot. Two things made me change the position of it though; firstly the wide-angle lens in the reversing camera made everything far too small, and secondly when I put the wind down windows in I didn't want the camera to be seen from the outside when the side windows were down. So I bought a "spy-cam" instead and mounted it in the position shown in the photo below which is quite difficult to be seen from outside the car. I chose the "spy-cam" because it was small and also doesn't have the wide-angle distortion that the reversing cam does, and the lens of the cam looks like a phillips head screw so even if you do see it then it's not obvious that it is a camera. Whole cars can hide in the blind-spot (especially if they are pacing you there while checking out the Mustang), and this camera has made changing lanes in the fastback a dream. For me also there is the scenario of driving a left hand drive car in a right hand drive country, so basically when I merge onto a freeway I'm on the wrong side of the car to see what traffic is beside me as I merge. The pic below shows the screens. I picked black screens with chrome edging that suits the dash trim without looking too out of place. When I took this picture the car shown in the screen was completely invisible behind the C-pillar. I use this screen every single time that I change lanes on the highway - no more stress! The other screen which shows directly to the rear - I find I hardly look at this one except when backing out of my driveway so I don't run over any toddlers (or senior-citizens on low-rider scooters :D ). The position of that cam sometimes means it gets fogged up in winter when driving at speed, but a reversing camera is useless at speed anyway so I'm not really concerned about that.
  23. Probably nothing will happen. A friend of mine had the coils by Mustangs Unlimited that were 1 inch shorter than stock to start with. He cut off another inch and had 255/60/15 on a 15x8 inch Magnum 500 and nothing scrubbed. I guess you're on the safe side. That's good info to know Mike, thanks! I've got new upper control arms, spring seats and shocks to put in so might lop off half a coil while I'm in there (hopefully half a coil won't make the ride too soft and spongy). Looking from the front it looks like there's plenty of room between the sidewall and the guard lip.
  24. Welcome ::welcome:: What a coincidence, you picked a car that has your username painted on the door! :D
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