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Posts posted by Flatback72

  1. Every year for the past 5 years or so, on the break-up day preceding the Christmas close-down period, my workplace hosts a car show for employees to showcase their cars. Out of about 250 employees that work there, we manage to scrape up a fairly good proportional quantity of eclectic automobiles, motorcycles and other assorted memorabilia. I was there representing the 71-73 Mustang contingent of course. I thought I'd share a few pics of yesterday's event to give forum members a look-see at what average Australian auto enthusiasts are into!


    The show was judged by a couple of blokes from a nearby hydraulics firm that we deal with, and they declared the winner to be the old orange original FB Holden Ute that was parked next to my Mustang. It was an ex-Sydney Airport maintenance vehicle that the current owner had rescued from an assured rusty death in a back paddock in the middle of nowhere.


    I wonder, does anybody else's workplace do something similar?



















































  2. I love these little time capsule stories!


    When I put the wind down quarter windows in my fastback I noticed the the top metal bracket just under the quarter window, the one that ads a bit of internal support for the interior quarter panel, was missing on one side. In fact it was obvious that the bracket had never been fitted because one of the screw holes on the inner wall of the car was 90% missing due to a fault in the panel stamping process.


    A few years later the mystery was solved when I was sprucing up the floor panels. I pulled up the factory insulation in the rear footwell and there was the missing bracket pressed into the insulation. I surmise that Fred Blogg's the factory assembler realised he couldn't screw it on because of the deformed mounting hole and so decided to piff it on the rear floor instead.


    So after forty something years later I did the factory workers job for him by drilling out the hole and screwing the bracket into it's rightful intended position.

  3. I put a back up camera on mine as well, but it did stop working about two years ago and now I have a lot more confidence backing the car these days so I haven't bothered to replace it yet.


    The best thing I ever did though was add a camera that looked out into the rear passenger side blind spot. I literally look at it every time that I change lanes to the right and it's been invaluable for spotting cars hiding behind the massive rear roof pillar. I used a spy camera rather than a reversing camera though because the spy cameras aren't wide angle vision. Before this I had tried the wide angle camera and it was useless because it made the cars on the screen too small to see.





  4. First look at some 71-73 interior photo's to see where the location of the upper mounts should be, then run your finger along the headlining in that particular area on your car and you should be able to feel a hole (tapped 3/8" UNC) where the mounting boss is located. My car had a factory installed drivers 3 point seat belt, but only a lap belt in the passenger side, I ran my finger along the passenger side headliner feeling for the mounting boss hole, found it, cut a small slit in the liner over the top of the hole and then mounted my new upper belt to it.

  5. G'Day Brett,


    The dealer knows the dogs will be the main passengers and has told the crowd fitting them to fit fixed lap/sash and not retractable. This hopefully makes the installation less intrusive :-/ 


    Regards Shane


    PS where abouts in Oz are you?


    Bendigo, VIC.

  6. Thanks again for the warm welcome guys.


    Still waiting to collect my car. :@ 


    Regency Park (rego inspection)has made the dealer fit lap sash belts to the rear.


    He has sent it to an engineering crowd to fit up and get certified. I don't know where they are going to mount the top anchor points :-/ 


    I just hope it doesn't effect the functionality of being able to drop the rear seat.


    Especially as these guys will probably be the only passengers :D 






    Yeah, I needed to get lap/sash belt too to get rego for mine. But my fastback didn't have the fold down seat so it was an easy install of the retracting mechanism on the parcel shelf. They might have to find an anchor point further back on the C-pillar for yours, as there is positional calculations required for the mounting points so that the belts are positioned over the passengers shoulder in the right spot.

  7. You're welcome Brett. As I stress many times on the Forum, this is based on MY experience doing the swap. I also had the advantage of having the motor out which made life a whole lot better, but you don't have too!!! You didn't say if you were going to whole hog and replacing the plastic clutch bushings, but it will be  easier with that bracket out. My clutch is a Center Force 2 and was quite heavy before I changed the bushings to bearings. I also used oilite bushings at all the other linkage connections. You just need a couple of 5/8" ID ball bearings and knock up a couple of carriers for the OD and weld them on. Easy-Peasy for a machinist!! I wish I'd taken pictures when I did all this work, but you know how it goes.

    Anyway good luck with it.

    Yes we got off track a bit from the original post from nailpounder, but it's mostly relevant and hopefully helpful to him.



    Hey Geoff, do you know if your kit altered the track width at all from the standard drum brake set up? I asked the rep at Leed Brakes and he didn't know.


    Apologies too to Nailpounder for hijacking your conversation thread  :whistling: , I promise to post here my thoughts on the disc brake set up once it's installed and tested (though not sure when that will be, I've got a few things going on at the moment that are getting in the way)




    That kit looks similar to the SSBC one using Kelsey-Hayes style 4 piston caliper, which is also listed for 65-67 Mustangs. I did not get the booster with mine, so that IS a plus and a very good price too. My discs are slotted and hubs are standard to fit drum brake spindles. I did one side in 1.5 hrs including new brake lines and the drivers side in 45 mins or so.

    If you care to do a search, there have been several posts on doing this conversion. There's the easy way and the hard way. Yes those hole will need to be drilled for 3/8" studs, currently threaded  for 3/8 studs, Clear with a 13/32" drill. Also, as you have to change your brake pedal as did I, why not think about upgrading the clutch shaft bearing as well if not already done. Trust me it WILL be worth it. I opted for Mustang Steve's kit, but knowing what I know now and being a machinist, I could easily have got bearings from the local supplier and made my own carriers as I had to modify them anyway to allow for the draft angle on the bracket. Scott Drake also sell a roller bearing kit which may or may not be better. Either way from my own frustration doing the booster installation, pull the steering column and drivers seat. Not hard to do and make working on it WAY easier. Oh! that old cover plate, make sure you drill out the holes and reuse it as there are bosses welded on and are spacers. You will need to cut the bottom part out of course.

    Hope that helps and enjoy your new brakes!!



    Thanks heaps Geoff for the tips, especially the threaded holes size that needs opening up. I'm not going to do the job myself (more through laziness than lack of ability!) but I will pass these tips on to the brake shop so they know up front what they are getting in to. I've just looked at some online pics of the cover plate and see what you mean - I thought it was just a flat plate but yeah with the bosses and such built into it it looks like it definitely needs to stay in place. BTW I am also a machinist by trade too - 25 years on lathes, mills, NC lathes and NC machining centres (though I've spent the last 9 years in a cushy office as a purchasing officer) and just over 34 years at the same factory.


  9. I haven't done the conversion but 3 days ago I ordered this power brake conversion kit from Leed Brakes, though I bought mine using their ebay store ($899):




    I asked a few questions before I ordered it:

    Calipers and pads are same as 65 - 67 Mustangs, so no problems if future replacements needed.

    Booster used is a 70 to 73 Mustang booster and master cylinder. Leed say it will clear the clutch linkages on a manual car (mines a manual).

    The brake pedal does need modification though, a half inch hole needs to be drilled in the pedal and the a new connecting pin installed 2 inches below the original. Pin is supplied with the kit and is held on with a nut. Leed say a standard power brake pedal will work perfectly if one can be obtained second hand and you can't be bothered with drilling the original.

    Have just asked Leed if rotors are specially made for the kit or standard, awaiting their response.


    There's an installation instruction pdf for download at the bottom of the linked webpage to read so you can see what you're getting into (plus a short video). Noting that the instructions say that holes need to be drilled into the firewall to fit the booster, pretty sure this is not required as the holes are already there.




    I'm not sure when I'll be able to book it in for installation, probably sometime in the next month or so, and will report back then on my thoughts. Really looking forward to getting rid of the drums for good!

  10. I had to but heads with a one or two people that would rather I didn’t use stock lights. Or at least close to stock anyway. I like them as well.


    We seem to be the minority. I was surprised to learn that many if not most 1,2,3 fans are actually not fans of their taillights.



    Yeah, putting my hand up here to say the 71-73 taillights are not appealing to me. Don't hate them, but do feel they would look better if they had been designed like in this photoshop image:





  11. New guy here. It was this post that lead me to this website. Just joined this week. Thanks for this info. I am looking for the window stops next.


    Glad you found the tutorial useful Jon71. If you can't find the stops then I reckon in a pinch you could probably fabricate a pair yourself using slices of angle iron with a drilled hole to put a nut and bolt through.

  12. Welcome from down in Bendigo.


    I count myself lucky, I got my rust free Californian Mustang back when the Aus dollar was parity with the US dollar for only $18000 AUD which was pretty cheap even considering that the bloke who imported it probably made five or six thousand profit on it at the time....

  13. G'day from Brett in Bendigo, VIC.


    Here's my ride, buried under all the yellow is a 1972 Sprint. All the non-factory mods on the car were done by it's previous US owner - normally I'm a stickler for originality but when I saw this little yellow beastie for the first time with it's c-stipe and non-factory scoop and spoiler it reminded me of the hot wheels cars I used to play with as a kid so I just had to buy it.


    The things I like best about these fastbacks are the 40 foot long bonnet, hidden windshield wipers and the ludicrous angle of the backlight plus the lowness of the roofline.



  14. With all respects to the good people who run and maintain this forum, I'm not really a fan of the recent change where the top menu stays at the top of the screen (where I've scribbled in red) and won't scroll out of the way. On my monitor I've lost 2 inches of forum viewing space at the top, makes me feel like I'm viewing the forum through the back window of a 72 fastback!  :-/



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