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Flatback72

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Everything posted by Flatback72

  1. Welcome newbie (from another newbie). 533cid?? ::goodjob:: - turning you pony into a fire snorting bronco is something I thoroughly endorse! ::thumb::
  2. I reckon I must have been tripping when I dialled up the Hot Pink one...... dancebanana
  3. A google search bought up this little number from 1966: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2008/10/23/so-ford-did-consider-a-mustang-station-wagon-among-other-body-styles/
  4. Ok, I've provided the proof of concept, now somebody here please build one...... :P
  5. Sometimes the guys at Australian Customs let alcohol through, but only when they are too drunk themselves to notice. That's about only about 30 percent of the time so the odds aren't great........ Empties huh, there'd be no law against that! I tell you what, if you did feel like shooting a sixpack my way I could reimburse you the cost of the beer and postage through Paypal; if the caps were removed carefully without bending them too much I could refill the bottles and recap them over here. And because I'd be paying the costs you could drink the beer yourself and get half drunk at my expense! ::chili:: Brett
  6. My fastback is (was) a Sprint. Only way to prove it is the HB trim code on the door sticker, or get a Marti report (see mine for example). Those rear seats are definitely out of a Sprint; does it have the urethane bumper and Mach1 grille? Another clue might be the blue that is painted under your rear quarter extensions - if there is someone here that is an expert on Sprint's then they might be able to tell you if the car came out of the factory painted like that. If your VIN is right and your car is a genuine '71 then it won't be a Sprint.
  7. Thanks for the offer Luxstang, but I think there's a whole lot of customs issues with importing alcoholic beverages :-/ I don't think Benderbrau beer really exists, but a bit of nice artwork here which could be printed and attached to a beer bottle for nice effect:
  8. I'm very much interested in the answer to the headers question above too because I've got a 302W with stock equaliser bar on a 3spd toploader. The application chart on the Summit site mark the Hedmans a no go for manual floor floor shift cars, but the Patriot application chart list them as compatible, so what's true?? :shrug2: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-88400/Application/?query=CID|302 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTE-H8433/Application/?prefilter=1
  9. That rear wing in your link does look similar to mine. Possible Corvette part on a Mustang is something I better keep quite about over here :dodgy: The scoop is different to the linked one though - the reason why I thought it might be designed for the Mustang is that it has an identical crease up the centre of it to the centre crease on the hood, and it's also got a curve at the back of it the kind of matches the hood curve near the windscreen. Thanks luxstang. Whoever the guy was who themed this car, he was certainly brave with putting on the c-stripes, smoothies, and fibreglass add-ons. Luckily there are so few of this model Mustang in Australia that hardly anybody outside Mustang circles here would know this is not how they are meant to look. :whistling:
  10. It's 50 years on, and still no sign of the Mach 1 Levicar!! :@
  11. Now where can I get me some of that legendary BenderBrau??
  12. I agree that it shouldn't be done, but being a Simpsons fan myself there would be no moral argument strong enough to stop me from grabbing a six-pack off the shelf if they ever became available here in Australia!
  13. Here's something you can do if you like to dabble in picture manipulation - stick your Mustang in a classic magazine advertisement. Here's one I did earlier in the year of my car: Original Mine Or you could try turning your car into a "good ol' boys vee-hicle" to gain some notoriety perhaps....:
  14. A South Australian brewer made some Duff here a few years back, but Fox succeeded in forcing them to stop. I've still got a couple of full cans stashed away in my cupboard.
  15. Thought I'd also add my endorsement here for Ohio Mustang Supply for their willingness to look after overseas customers. Started ordering parts from OMS last year and they have always shipped the parts to Australia promptly and packaged well, and have always refunded postage money to me if the actual postage price comes in less than the estimate. So thanks!
  16. 1971 to 1973 fastbacks didn't come out with wind down quarter windows - the only way you could go pillarless was to order the electric window option. However all the holes and mounting points are pressed into the inner rear quarter side wall to allow the winding mechanism from a '71-'73 coupe to be transferred directly into a fastback. Why Ford didn't sell the fastbacks with manual wind down quarters when they were clearly designed to have them fitted is a mystery, but I'm assuming some stingy beancounter worked out he could save $20 per car if they were deleted. The first step is to buy all the bits needed for the conversion, and eBay is the best place to look. I was lucky enough to find a seller who was selling the complete kit of coupe window parts in one shipment, but the parts can be bought separately, and the following pictures show exactly the parts that are needed (one set only shown - you'll need to buy two of everything of course). The coupe window is not the same shape as the fastback window so cannot be used. For this conversion you will be using your original fastback window. Shown here are four screws for mounting the winder mechanism, the two upper stops that allow the window to be positioned correctly when wound up, and a coupe rear quarter window crank handle. Not shown is the screw that holds the window crank on. Using a front window crank handle on the rears would probably work ok, but these rear crank handles are shorter and won't stick out into the door entry area where the could get snagged by a person getting in or out. If the bolts can't be sourced on eBay then a local fastener shop would probably have them: This is a coupe window winder mechanism; mine is second hand, but these can be sourced as new reproduction items: This is the coupe rail sliding plate: And this is the coupe window clamp plate with rollers attached (the coupe clamp plate is designed to be compatible with the fastback window): An exploded view of the clamp showing all of the parts, in case they can't be sourced in a single assembly this pic shows every part needed: and another view detailing the assembly: First step is to remove the seat, the side panel, and the rubber quarter post seal from the door jamb. Undo the three window plate bolts (circled): The window can then be removed. It is likely that after 38 years the rubber window seal will be stuck to the window so a screwdriver might be needed to pry the rubber away from the glass: Then remove the three bolts on the large mounting plate and remove it through the window gap: Remove the clamp plate from the window by undoing these three bolts: Once again 38 years will have glued the rubber clamp pad to the window around the mounting holes, so very gently and slowly prise the window away from the rubber with a screw driver. When the window is free give it a good clean. None of the parts removed from the window will be re-used during the conversion: (EDIT: The rubber clamp pad could be reused if unable to obtain one from a coupe) Spray the insides of the rails on the sliding plate liberally with lithium grease: Insert the sliding plate though the window slot and bolt it into position loosely to the same studs and hole the original mounting plate was attached to: On the new clamp plate remove the lower window clamp bolt and washer, loosen the top two roller nuts slightly (leave the bottom roller bolt tight), spray the rollers with some grease and then slide the rollers on the plate into the rails on the slide plate: When the clamp plate has been slid down about 3/4 of the way, undo the top two roller nuts and pull the top of the clamp plate away from the roller screws (letting the clamp plate pivot on the bottom roller to which it is still attached). This is when you attach the window to the clamp and it can get a little tricky. Drop the window in from the top and position the roller bolts into the top two mounting holes in the window. Place the two small nylon spacer bushes into the clamp plate, then place the rubber clamp pad into position on the clamp plate using the two nylon spacer bushes to hang it on: Move the metal clamp plate (and rubber pad) into position over the roller screws by pushing the nylons spacer bushes through the holes in the window and put the nuts on the screws. Important: before doing the nuts up tight, be aware that the large metal washers on the rollers (now hidden from sight behind the clamp plate) have flats in their holes that correspond to the flats on the base of the roller screws. Put you fingers around the back of the clamp plate and turn the washers until you are sure the roller screw has located properly inside the washer hole - tightening the screw if it's not located properly in the washer may break the window! If everything looks alright then tighten the nuts firmly, but not tight enough to damage the glass (this particular little assembly job does get pretty fiddly and hard to line everything up easily, but don't be suckered into thinking you can attach the window to the clamp plate and insert the whole lot into the car in one go - I spent about an hour on the first window I did trying to do it this way before I concluded it just couldn't be done....): Next is the last window bolt, flat washer and plastic spacer is put in from behind and the nut tightened from the front: The two upper window stops are then inserted inside the wall with the bolts done up loosely. The following pictures show where they go, with the slots allowing for window stop adjustment: Now bolt in the winder mechanism; note that only four bolts are used, with the other two mounting holes in the mechanism not needed: Connect the winder mechanism arm to the pin on the window plate clamp using a circlip over the pin: Temporarily put the crank handle onto the winder spline, wind the window up to full extension. Move the window into the correct position by moving the sliding rail plate slots around on its studs and then tighten the sliding plate nuts and bolt. Then adjust and tighten the upper stops as required (Positioning the window in the right spot can take a few tries). Now to drill the hole in the interior panel so the crank spline can stick through. Place the panel into its correct position, then looking in through the top you will be able to see where the spline is touching the inside of the plastic panel. Use a scriber or something long and sharp to scratch the panel around the top of the spline so there will be a visible mark on the panel when you take it back off: Just to be sure you've marked the right spot, drill a small pilot hole first, then put the panel back on and see if you got it in the right place: Choose a hole saw big enough for the centre of the crank handle to slide through with a bit of margin for error, but not too big that the edge of the hole will show if you didn't quite manage to drill in the right spot: Now put the car back together, place a plastic crank disc over the hole to protect against winding wear, then screw on the crank handle. I had to replace the rubber quarter post seal on the door jamb too (I bought these before I started the job), as mine was as hard as a rock and wouldn't let the window slide through it: Jobs done!
  17. Thanks for the warm welcome everybody! Here are some pics of my car. The yellow/black theme with the spoiler and scoop were on the car when I bought it so I can't take any credit (or blame depending on your perspective) for the way the car has been themed. I've never really been a fan of adding non-standard parts to a car, but for some reason I really like the way this one has been done, I'm guessing because it kinda looks like one of the Hot Wheels cars I played with as a kid! I'd be interested if anyone here recognised where these types of scoop and spoiler are sourced from, because there are subtle design cues on them that make me think they were designed only to fit a 71-73 Mustang, and I'm also wondering if they are new parts or something a fair bit older. As I mentioned earlier, this car started out as a white and blue Sprint model, which is why it has a standard hood (or bonnet as they're called here) and Mach 1 grill and bumper. It's running 15" x 10" rears with 295/60 tyres and 15" x 8" fronts with 245/60's. engine is a stock 302W, but I've swapped out the 2bb carby with a 4bbl 575 Holley and manifold to give it a little bit more pickup when I kick it in the guts on the open road. Cheers Brett
  18. 1971 to 1973 fastbacks didn't come out with wind down quarter windows - the only way you could go pillarless was to order the electric window option. However all the holes and mounting points are pressed into the inner rear quarter side wall to allow the winding mechanism from a '71-'73 coupe to be transferred directly into a fastback. Why Ford didn't sell the fastbacks with manual wind down quarters when they were clearly designed to have them fitted is a mystery, but I'm assuming some stingy beancounter worked out he could save $20 per car if they were deleted. The first step is to buy all the bits needed for the conversion, and eBay is the best place to look. I was lucky enough to find a seller who was selling the complete kit of coupe window parts in one shipment, but the parts can be bought separately, and the following pictures show exactly the parts that are needed (one set only shown - you'll need to buy two of everything of course). The coupe window is not the same shape as the fastback window so cannot be used. For this conversion you will be using your original fastback window. Shown here are four screws for mounting the winder mechanism, the two upper stops that allow the window to positioned correctly when wound up, and a coupe rear quarter window crank handle. Not shown is the screw that holds the window crank on. Using a front window crank handle on the rears would probably work ok, but these rear crank handles are shorter and won't stick out into the door entry area where the could get snagged by a person getting in or out. If the bolts can't be sourced on eBay then a local fastener shop would probably have them: This is a coupe window winder mechanism; mine is second hand, but these can be sourced as new reproduction items: This is the coupe rail sliding plate: And this is the coupe window clamp plate with rollers attached (the coupe clamp plate is designed to be compatible with the fastback window): An exploded view of the clamp showing all of the parts, in case they can't be sourced in a single assembly this pic shows every part needed: and another view detailing the assembly: First step is to remove the seat, the side panel, and the rubber quarter post seal from the door jamb. Undo the three window plate bolts (circled): The window can then be removed. It is likely that after 38 years the rubber window seal will be stuck to the window so a screwdriver might be needed to pry the rubber away from the glass: Then remove the three bolts on the large mounting plate and remove it through the window gap: Remove the clamp plate from the window by undoing these three bolts: Once again 38 years will have glued the rubber clamp pad to the window around the mounting holes, so very gently and slowly prise the window away from the rubber with a screw driver. When the window is free give it a good clean. None of the parts removed from the window will be re-used during the conversion: (EDIT: The rubber clamp pad could be reused if unable to obtain one from a coupe) Spray the insides of the rails on the sliding plate liberally with lithium grease: Insert the sliding plate though the window slot and bolt it into position loosely to the same studs and hole the original mounting plate was attached to: On the new clamp plate remove the lower window clamp bolt and washer, loosen the top two roller nuts slightly (leave the bottom roller bolt tight), spray the rollers with some grease and then slide the rollers on the plate into the rails on the slide plate: When the clamp plate has been slid down about 3/4 of the way, undo the top two roller nuts and pull the top of the clamp plate away from the roller screws (letting the clamp plate pivot on the bottom roller to which it is still attached). This is when you attach the window to the clamp and it can get a little tricky. Drop the window in from the top and position the roller bolts into the top two mounting holes in the window. Place the two small nylon spacer bushes into the clamp plate, then place the rubber clamp pad into position on the clamp plate using the two nylon spacer bushes to hang it on: Move the metal clamp plate (and rubber pad) into position over the roller screws by pushing the nylons spacer bushes through the holes in the window and put the nuts on the screws. Important: before doing the nuts up tight, be aware that the large metal washers on the rollers (now hidden from sight behind the clamp plate) have flats in their holes that correspond to the flats on the base of the roller screws. Put you fingers around the back of the clamp plate and turn the washers until you are sure the roller screw has located properly inside the washer hole - tightening the screw if it's not located properly in the washer may break the window! If everything looks alright then tighten the nuts firmly, but not tight enough to damage the glass (this particular little assembly job does get pretty fiddly and hard to line everything up easily, but don't be suckered into thinking you can attach the window to the clamp plate and insert the whole lot into the car in one go - I spent about an hour on the first window I did trying to do it this way before I concluded it just couldn't be done....): Next is the last window bolt, flat washer and plastic spacer is put in from behind and the nut tightened from the front: The two upper window stops are then inserted inside the wall with the bolts done up loosely. The following pictures show where they go, with the slots allowing for window stop adjustment: Now bolt in the winder mechanism; note that only four bolts are used, with the other two mounting holes in the mechanism not needed: Connect the winder mechanism arm to the pin on the window plate clamp using a circlip over the pin: Temporarily put the crank handle onto the winder spline, wind the window up to full extension. Move the window into the correct position by moving the sliding rail plate slots around on its studs and then tighten the sliding plate nuts and bolt. Then adjust and tighten the upper stops as required (Positioning the window in the right spot can take a few tries). Now to drill the hole in the interior panel so the crank spline can stick through. Place the panel into its correct position, then looking in through the top you will be able to see where the spline is touching the inside of the plastic panel. Use a scriber or something long and sharp to scratch the panel around the top of the spline so there will be a visible mark on the panel when you take it back off: Just to be sure you've marked the right spot, drill a small pilot hole first, then put the panel back on and see if you got it in the right place: Choose a hole saw big enough for the centre of the crank handle to slide through with a bit of margin for error, but not too big that the edge of the hole will show if you didn't quite manage to drill in the right spot: Now put the car back together, place a plastic crank disc over the hole to protect against winding wear, then screw on the crank handle. I had to replace the rubber quarter post seal on the door jamb too (I bought these before I started the job), as mine was as hard as a rock and wouldn't let the window slide through it: Jobs done....now to grow an extra long mullet that I can hang out the new window while cruising on the open road!
  19. G'day folks, stumbled across this forum recently and thought I'd join up from across the Pacific (Australia). Always loved 2 door Ford muscle cars and at age 21 (23 years ago) bought myself a 1970 Mach1 which had been converted to right hand drive as mandated by the laws here at the time. Had that car for five years but reluctantly sold it to get a house deposit. To keep myself amused I then passed the time with a cheaper 1974 XB Ford Falcon coupe (think Mad Max), which like an idiot I sold eight years ago for $2200 dollars to buy something "practical". (Shoulda hung onto it because it would have been worth about $25000 now, but no use kicking myself about it now.....:-/) When I had the 70 Mach 1 I always thought of the 71 - 73 Mustangs as being rather uninspiring in design, but in the years after that cars departure I began to see the later models with a different eye, and swore that if I ever got another 'stang it would be one of these. A year ago I came to the realisation that I had some cash to burn and saw my current ride for sale on eBay by a guy who had just imported it. It started it's life as a 1972 Olympic Sprint model (302W 3-spd toploader) but is now painted yellow with interesting non-standard Grabber stripes. I love the new scheme and have no desire to change it back to original. Ten years ago Left Hand Drive vehicles over 30 years old became legal to drive here in Oz so the car will stay LHD (only really a problem in a RHD country when overtaking). The biggest issue with having the Mustang is that every second person on the street wants to stop you and talk about it when sometimes you just wanna be left alone! There are many Mustangs down here but not so many 71 - 73 models, in fact so few that many people don't even recognise the distinctive 72 shape as being that of a Mustang. I'm mainly active on the Australian Mustang forum, but might drop in here every now and again for a look-see. In case anyone is interested I just posted a tutorial there on how to convert fastback fixed quarter windows to wind down ones from a coupe - very cool to have a pillarless Mustang! http://mustang.org.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=13800 Edit: window tutorial now posted on the 7173 forum at: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-fastback-quarter-windows?page=2 Cheers Brett
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