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Everything posted by Flatback72

  1. Noting that at the time of this reply the photo's in my old tutorial have returned!
  2. Checked my quarter window tutorial in the aesthetics tutorial section and all of the linked photo's are missing after the upgrade. Do I need to edit and add them back in?
  3. The Top Gear Mustang had one, it does look pretty tough.
  4. Here's one of an outstanding Cuda that I took a few weeks ago at our factory's annual end of year employees only car show, held inside the workshop for the first and only time this year to make use of the new concrete area before the Hawkei military vehicle (second pic) assembly line goes in later this year (Had to stick cardboard under my car, didn't want to muss up the expensive new concrete with a puddle of oil seepage) :angel:
  5. The "customer" at the start of the video capitulates "Well it's not the Mustang I've known, but it does look sort of jazzy". Which really sums up perfectly why I bought one! Noting too that the dealer video concentrates pretty much only on practical features, whereas I suspect pony car buyers at the time based their purchasing decision on visual and emotional grounds. Ford knew this and so the market share numbers between Mustang and 'Cuda ended up speaking for themselves. Also had a chuckle about the sales pitch on how's 1971 'Cuda's dual headlights were superior to Mustang's single setup, yet one year later in 1972 'Cuda suddenly reverts back to the single headlights the same as Mustang :) I would still kill to own a 'Cuda, they are magnificent looking vehicles!
  6. This one looks fairly decently priced (at $22,000 Australian dollars), assuming it doesn't have any rust issues... http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mortdale/cars-vans-utes/1972-ford-mustang-mach-1-coupe-fastback-351-v8-cleveland/1131936697?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=LF-cars
  7. Australian police were looking at the Mustang too due to the local Holden Commodore and Ford Falcon vehicle plants closing down here forcing them to look for another vehicle type. However during testing the auto transmission on the Mustang overheated during the simulated pursuit trials taking the Mustang out of contention. Sounds like the Aussie police might get Volvo's instead.... http://www.news.com.au/news/ford-mustang-loses-its-police-stripes-after-overheating-within-minutes-of-a-simulated-pursuit/news-story/13e4b07005fa5bc3b3da6563d0a0fea3
  8. Well, took my alternator and regulator/s to the auto elec who tested them and said they are ok and suggested I check the fuses. Before I bothered to check any fuses I put the alternator and regulator back into the car, started it and lo and behold the car is charging properly again! Can only think the problem was a bad connection perhaps.... :chin: still, I'm not complaining :)
  9. Had to jump start one of my daily driver cars (1999 Falcon Ute, battery dead flat) so that I could get the Mustang out for a drive. So I ran the jumper leads from my Mustang, while it was running, to my Falcon. Well the Falcon wouldn't turn over at all, just various clicking noises and such, so I came to the realization that I needed to hook the Falcon up to a battery charger and get at least some charge into it before jump starting. So after half an hour on the charger I hooked up the jumpers again from the stang and this time the Falcon roared to life. Went back to the Mustang and noticed the volt gauge showing low, so check the stang's battery with a voltmeter while it was running and sure enough I am only getting 11.89 volts across the terminals. Immediately thought that I've wrecked the regulator so swapped it out with a brand new solid state one that I had lying around, still no good. The charge light on the dash goes out like it should, I've checked all my wiring to make sure no wires had come loose or broken and it all looks ok. It was running at about a 13.5 volt charge before the jumpstart episode. So I'm at a loss, did I just wreck my alternator? Anybody got ideas as to what can go wrong during a jumpstart that would stop my stang from charging?? Thanks
  10. Melbourne Australia in the 1970's. A keen eye is needed to spot the Mustang in this one.
  11. The new grilles have six mounting holes so they are designed to be interchangeable with both the single centre support and the double centre support cars.
  12. Thanks for the replies guys, I had no idea there was an instrument regulator on the back of the cluster. I've just ordered a new solid state regulator off ebay which I will install when it arrives, and also check/move all the connectors on the circuit card while I'm at it. I'm hopeful this will do the trick.
  13. Mmmmm, I didn't actually earth the body of the sender, just plugged it in to the existing plug. Tomorrow, I'll plug it in again but this time run a test wire from the sender body to a good ground point and see if that makes a difference. Thanks.
  14. Well I noticed the other week that after filling my car up with fuel that the gauge was only showing 1/3 full. Thinking that the tank sender has gone kaput I dragged out a brand new sender that I bought a while ago for contingency stock and plugged it in and moved the sender arm to it;s extremity to simulate a full tank of fuel. The gauge pointer with the new sender attached did move a little higher but still sat at around 1/3, so I am convinced now that there is no issue with the current sender unit in the tank. After a fairly long drive the fuel gauge pointer has moved steadily towards empty (I estimate the tank is still half full), so the gauge does appear to be working, but only in the lower 1/3 range and not accurately. My guess now is that the fuel gauge itself may be faulty. I do have a spare fuel gauge available to try in an old second hand cluster, but being a fiddly job to remove and replace I'm being a little lazy by posting on the forum first before pulling my dash and cluster apart. So my question is: do fuel gauges fail in this way, where the gauge still works but the range it works over is diminished to the lower 1/3 of the dial? Or is there some other reason not sender or gauge related that could cause this to happen?
  15. ....er, ok, maybe I was a bit loose with the word prestigious ..... :chin: https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/291382/the-ladybird-book-of-the-mid-life-crisis/
  16. 275's on 10 inch rims look fine and function fine too. I think if we followed manufacturers specifications our cars wouldn't have wheels wider than 7 inches. And they have the added bonus (in my humble opinion anyway) of filling out the gap between the tyre and the guard perfectly
  17. I think the large FORD emblem is there to provide balance to the HUGE license plate....
  18. I'm running 15 x 10's on the back and 15 x 8's on the front, with 275/60 and 235/60 tyres. They were on the car when I bought it and I've never got around to measuring the back spacing though. Every blue moon I've had the rear tyres scrub for a brief second when my car goes over a bump in a particular way, but I've never seen any damage to the tyres or scrub marks on the body or fender lips so I'm not sure where it is touching. And the scrubbing happens so rarely too that I don't really care. I suspect that if my backspacing was different by 5mm one way in the correct direction, or my tyres were slightly less wide I wouldn't have any scrubbing at all. The fender lips haven't been altered on my car
  19. For my drop link, the shackle at the bottom of the drop link is designed to be big enough for the latch buckle to slide through it, so you just thread the belt and buckle straight through the shackle when installing, there's no unstitching involved. My drop link and seatbelts came from the one manufacturer (Hemco Australia) so clearly the belts and droplinks are designed to work well with each other. Whether or not the Hemco droplink would work with non-Hemco belts I couldn't say.
  20. Could be worse Greg, think of all the poor buggers over in South Australia. Their nanny government won't let them modify their LHD cars away from stock configuration at all. If it doesn't look exactly as it did when it left the factory then it's not allowed on the road at all.... :shootself: To be honest, I didn't begrudge being made to put new lap/sash belts all round, it's nice to know that myself and passengers are as safe as it's possible to be in the event of a stack.
  21. Hi Greg There's a bloke at my work who is getting a LHD '71 Torino ready for registration. I asked him yesterday about the seat belts and he said his engineer expects Australian Design Rules approved sash seat belt for all four corner seats, and he is allowed to use ADR approved lap belts for the centre seats only. So no, it doesn't look like they've relaxed the rules in any way down here in VIC. Brett
  22. I love my droplink (that's mine in the fourth image on your post). Weird that they seem to be readily available here in Australia and not in the rest of the world though; I would have thought they'd be used everywhere in the US with the amount of different hardtops built in the US over the years. When I first bought my car it was the first thing I noticed that the original seat belt was cutting into my neck and I remember thinking surely they wouldn't have come out of the factory this way?? I had to change the seat belts to Australian Design Rules approved though, so made sure the new belts I got had a droplink in them.
  23. These three bro's at the train station, totally unawares that some major s*** is about to go down....
  24. It's OK bud. I'm sure many have never seen it - so thanks for posting! I know I have posted many things that had been previously posted! Ray I'd found this one on the net a while ago as a two pager so I joined it together with Corel PhotoPaint. I thought I'd done a pretty smick job too until I noticed that I hadn't added the gap at the rear of the door where the magazine fold was!
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