Jump to content

Flatback72

VIP Members
  • Posts

    847
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Posts posted by Flatback72

  1. Here's one of an outstanding Cuda that I took a few weeks ago at our factory's annual end of year employees only car show, held inside the workshop for the first and only time this year to make use of the new concrete area before the Hawkei military vehicle (second pic) assembly line goes in later this year

     

    YRp8Pm7.jpg

     

    7RMngrN.jpg

     

    (Had to stick cardboard under my car, didn't want to muss up the expensive new concrete with a puddle of oil seepage) :angel:

     

    wcxEFeF.jpg

  2. The "customer" at the start of the video capitulates "Well it's not the Mustang I've known, but it does look sort of jazzy".

     

    Which really sums up perfectly why I bought one!

     

    Noting too that the dealer video concentrates pretty much only on practical features, whereas I suspect pony car buyers at the time based their purchasing decision on visual and emotional grounds. Ford knew this and so the market share numbers between Mustang and 'Cuda ended up speaking for themselves.

     

    Also had a chuckle about the sales pitch on how's 1971 'Cuda's dual headlights were superior to Mustang's single setup, yet one year later in 1972 'Cuda suddenly reverts back to the single headlights the same as Mustang :)

     

    I would still kill to own a 'Cuda, they are magnificent looking vehicles!

  3. Australian police were looking at the Mustang too due to the local Holden Commodore and Ford Falcon vehicle plants closing down here forcing them to look for another vehicle type. However during testing the auto transmission on the Mustang overheated during the simulated pursuit trials taking the Mustang out of contention. Sounds like the Aussie police might get Volvo's instead....

     

    http://www.news.com.au/news/ford-mustang-loses-its-police-stripes-after-overheating-within-minutes-of-a-simulated-pursuit/news-story/13e4b07005fa5bc3b3da6563d0a0fea3

     

    HP154Mustang.jpg

     

    4644e7de25906291d267cc7ad9599942

  4. Well, took my alternator and regulator/s to the auto elec who tested them and said they are ok and suggested I check the fuses. Before I bothered to check any fuses I put the alternator and regulator back into the car, started it and lo and behold the car is charging properly again! Can only think the problem was a bad connection perhaps.... :chin: still, I'm not complaining :)

  5. Had to jump start one of my daily driver cars (1999 Falcon Ute, battery dead flat) so that I could get the Mustang out for a drive.

     

    So I ran the jumper leads from my Mustang, while it was running, to my Falcon. Well the Falcon wouldn't turn over at all, just various clicking noises and such, so I came to the realization that I needed to hook the Falcon up to a battery charger and get at least some charge into it before jump starting.

     

    So after half an hour on the charger I hooked up the jumpers again from the stang and this time the Falcon roared to life.

     

    Went back to the Mustang and noticed the volt gauge showing low, so check the stang's battery with a voltmeter while it was running and sure enough I am only getting 11.89 volts across the terminals.

     

    Immediately thought that I've wrecked the regulator so swapped it out with a brand new solid state one that I had lying around, still no good.

     

    The charge light on the dash goes out like it should, I've checked all my wiring to make sure no wires had come loose or broken and it all looks ok. It was running at about a 13.5 volt charge before the jumpstart episode.

     

    So I'm at a loss, did I just wreck my alternator? Anybody got ideas as to what can go wrong during a jumpstart that would stop my stang from charging??

     

    Thanks

  6. When you tried the new sending unit did you ground it to a good ground?

     

    I would start by checking grounds and connectors. The fuel gauge works by the changing electrical resistance in the sending unit. Any bad connection or ground will change that resistance value, causing the gauge to be inaccurate.

     

    Mmmmm, I didn't actually earth the body of the sender, just plugged it in to the existing plug. Tomorrow, I'll plug it in again but this time run a test wire from the sender body to a good ground point and see if that makes a difference. Thanks.

  7. Well I noticed the other week that after filling my car up with fuel that the gauge was only showing 1/3 full.

     

    Thinking that the tank sender has gone kaput I dragged out a brand new sender that I bought a while ago for contingency stock and plugged it in and moved the sender arm to it;s extremity to simulate a full tank of fuel.

     

    The gauge pointer with the new sender attached did move a little higher but still sat at around 1/3, so I am convinced now that there is no issue with the current sender unit in the tank.

     

    After a fairly long drive the fuel gauge pointer has moved steadily towards empty (I estimate the tank is still half full), so the gauge does appear to be working, but only in the lower 1/3 range and not accurately.

     

    My guess now is that the fuel gauge itself may be faulty. I do have a spare fuel gauge available to try in an old second hand cluster, but being a fiddly job to remove and replace I'm being a little lazy by posting on the forum first before pulling my dash and cluster apart.

     

    So my question is: do fuel gauges fail in this way, where the gauge still works but the range it works over is diminished to the lower 1/3 of the dial? Or is there some other reason not sender or gauge related that could cause this to happen?

     

    mHc4Sy6.jpg

     

    MYiy7up.jpg

  8. 275's on 10 inch rims look fine and function fine too. I think if we followed manufacturers specifications our cars wouldn't have wheels wider than 7 inches. And they have the added bonus (in my humble opinion anyway) of filling out the gap between the tyre and the guard perfectly

  9. Hi All,

     

    Just wondering if anyone is running 10 X 15s on the rear and 8 X 15's on the front? Thinking of doing it to my car.

     

    Thanks for any comments you may have.

     

     

    I'm running 15 x 10's on the back and 15 x 8's on the front, with 275/60 and 235/60 tyres.

     

    They were on the car when I bought it and I've never got around to measuring the back spacing though.

     

    Every blue moon I've had the rear tyres scrub for a brief second when my car goes over a bump in a particular way, but I've never seen any damage to the tyres or scrub marks on the body or fender lips so I'm not sure where it is touching. And the scrubbing happens so rarely too that I don't really care. I suspect that if my backspacing was different by 5mm one way in the correct direction, or my tyres were slightly less wide I wouldn't have any scrubbing at all. The fender lips haven't been altered on my car

     

    oUDTpKh.jpg

     

    bcE6NqZ.jpg

  10. I'm still waiting for someone who has installed the drop-links to explain how they did it (were they part of a kit, did they have someone do it, were they able to simply replace the link with the drop-link, etc.). I'm also not in any kind of a hurry or anything like that, either.

     

    For my drop link, the shackle at the bottom of the drop link is designed to be big enough for the latch buckle to slide through it, so you just thread the belt and buckle straight through the shackle when installing, there's no unstitching involved. My drop link and seatbelts came from the one manufacturer (Hemco Australia) so clearly the belts and droplinks are designed to work well with each other. Whether or not the Hemco droplink would work with non-Hemco belts I couldn't say.

  11. Thanks Brett,

     

    Interesting feedback.:chin: Yeah, it could mean different rules for different States again. More out of step State rubbish like before.

     

    Australia - 24 million people and six States with different rules - crazy.:shootself:

     

    Greg.:)

     

    Could be worse Greg, think of all the poor buggers over in South Australia. Their nanny government won't let them modify their LHD cars away from stock configuration at all. If it doesn't look exactly as it did when it left the factory then it's not allowed on the road at all.... :shootself:

     

    To be honest, I didn't begrudge being made to put new lap/sash belts all round, it's nice to know that myself and passengers are as safe as it's possible to be in the event of a stack.

  12.  

    Hi Brett,

     

    Quick question. Has your State Government recently relaxed the seat belt laws regarding classic cars? They have in Queensland, and now i'm allowed to have lap only belts in my Vert, and factory belts in my Mach 1.:@ ( the Mach has original factory belts installed already) I was angry over this, as i spent a large sum of money and went to great deal of trouble to install and modify new lap and sash belts for the Vert after i bought it in 2011. You HAD to have lap and sash belts installed back then. The position of the shoulder anchor bolt has to be located in a small confined area, and so now, the quarter window winder cranks hits the anchor bolts covers every time you wind the glass up and down. That's a real pain in the neck. Now i can use the original American factory belts that were in the car when i bought it.:shootself:

     

    Sorry Eric, didn't mean to hi jack your post.:)

     

    Greg.:)

     

    Hi Greg

     

    There's a bloke at my work who is getting a LHD '71 Torino ready for registration. I asked him yesterday about the seat belts and he said his engineer expects Australian Design Rules approved sash seat belt for all four corner seats, and he is allowed to use ADR approved lap belts for the centre seats only. So no, it doesn't look like they've relaxed the rules in any way down here in VIC.

     

    Brett

  13. I love my droplink (that's mine in the fourth image on your post). Weird that they seem to be readily available here in Australia and not in the rest of the world though; I would have thought they'd be used everywhere in the US with the amount of different hardtops built in the US over the years. When I first bought my car it was the first thing I noticed that the original seat belt was cutting into my neck and I remember thinking surely they wouldn't have come out of the factory this way?? I had to change the seat belts to Australian Design Rules approved though, so made sure the new belts I got had a droplink in them.

     

    MGFnJKs.jpg

  14. Hmmm..., I searched the Forum lead titles, could not see anything, so chose this as the best option to post...

     

    It's OK bud. I'm sure many have never seen it - so thanks for posting! I know I have posted many things that had been previously posted!

     

    Ray

     

    I'd found this one on the net a while ago as a two pager so I joined it together with Corel PhotoPaint. I thought I'd done a pretty smick job too until I noticed that I hadn't added the gap at the rear of the door where the magazine fold was!

     

    1971_mustang_polyglas_ad_1.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...