Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang Mach 1


  • Location

peeenl's Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. You are correct. She went to the shop. In hindsight, I guess that wasn't real clear.
  2. Well, trailer is reserved. She's going on a trip today!
  3. Don't get me wrong. I love the car. I twisted every bolt on it. Not many people can say that, even on here. I want to be the guy driving it around on the street. I will sell it one day though, and move on to the next project. I'm just at a point where I've got to make a decision about how nice we are going to go. I'm not going to make money, but I can either sell it now, or drive it and sell it done. But...I do believe the money I put into it now will bring it into a class that returns a much better percentage. I also understand that no part of that car is selling for 5k right now. I kind of assume I'm at $0 today. I know nobody is going to buy it for anything I would agree to as it sits. Its more of an ad to say I had an ad. If I can get a trailer; I may tow it to the shop tomorrow. And for you engine guys...good luck building it for less. lol. I should do a vin search on the block though. Its a 69. If I find the matching car, that guy might give me more for the engine than I would get for the car. More wishful thinking...but hey, that's what the internet is for. America!
  4. That's probably what's going to happen. I found a local shop that is going to throw it on the rotisserie and promises a 100% blast, fix my welds, and prime for a decent price; even including the interior and insides of mufti-layered panels. They said they would install the new cowl piece as well. Its not cheap, but I think I'm at a point that the money is equal on return later. Paint is where I'm baulking a little bit. The same shop will do it, but they want as much for the paint job as everything listed above. I don't know if I can justify that, but I'm also a little scared to spend that money on it and they paint it myself. I'm not sure what this thing is worth with a documented rotisserie restoration. Assuming I get it all fixed up, whats a real mach 1 with a non-original drivetrain worth? I saw a lot hovering around $20k, but those weren't fully complete recent restorations either. Are people really getting that though? They weren't that valuable when I first bought mine. They were kind of the bastard child of mustangs.
  5. I'm either selling it or taking it to a shop to get serious. http://loz.craigslist.org/cto/4868002673.html
  6. Well, I ran her a couple times. Still smoking a bit, but settling down some. The idle is starting to settle a bit lower as well. I do think it is burning some oil, because it has a blueish tint to me; but it hasn't been enough to effect the oil level at all. It does seem to puff thick pure white every now and then, but I haven't seen any indication of a blown head gasket in the fluids. It did ran here the other day, but I wouldn't expect that to effect a white puff after it's been running 5 minutes. Only other note is that the carburetor seems to smoke a little bit after I shut it down. Mean anything?
  7. I'll probably try to run it a little more this weekend. An alternate theory someone else had mentioned is that some of my hydraulic lifters could be stuck and not closing the corresponding valve(s) properly. He had said running it might break them free if that was the case. I did run it for a couple minutes since my last post. The only difference in my observations was that it started completely clear. Then on side started to sputter white smoke at a rate of about 3 puffs a second. The engine wasn't running as evenly as before, so I shut it down. Prior to that it had always been constant smoke. I'm not sure if that was an improvement or if that's a sign its getting worse. I had thought about the head gasket, but I have no sign of mixing in my coolant or oil.
  8. Hello again everyone, Thanks for all the help on my previous problems. I know this came up in my old thread, but I figured I'll start this over fresh since it was a second order issue. Long story short is: -Car sat for approximately 2 years. -When I got it, the shipping company had messed with it a bit (swapped battery out for a crappy one, took some clamps, took some loose parts that were in it, and I think stole the fuel). -New battery went in, but fuel wasn't getting through. -replaced float pin assembly in the edelbrock carb. -ran, moved...and I gave it an oil change because it started spitting oil out of the breather and because it had been so long. -ran 10-15 minutes, no oil spitting...but had a double gasket on the oil filter, dumped oil, I shut it off instantly. -second oil change, wouldn't start, fuel wasn't getting there again -took the carb off, and used all the parts in the rebuild kit this time -starts again as off today! :) So...in this whole process every time it started and ran it would smoke. Always seems to start as heavy white, but will dissipate to where one tailpipe is clear and the other seems blue, but very very light smoke. (It is true dual exhaust) Half of my mind thinks if I run it long enough it will just dissipate out, but the other half of my mind is a little scared to run it very long. Someone in my old thread did mention this could be a sign of worn valve stems. I kind of wrote that off because I had rebuilt the engine just prior to it being in storage. I had gotten assembled aftermarket aluminum heads. With the valves being metal, I'm just assuming they wouldn't wear out just sitting there. Please let me know if I'm wrong though. How worried should I be about running it if its smoking lightly? Is it common for an engine to smoke just because of how long its been sitting?
  9. Well, I didn't mess with it until today since it was a busy week with work. I took the carb off again and went ahead and rebuilt everything with the rest of the kit I hadn't used (except the choke parts). Got it all back together, put it on, and went to try and fire it up. Threw in a little starter fluid for good measure when I put the air cleaner back on. In classic project fashion, I went to start it, and...nothing. Maybe the battery is dead? I threw it on a charger, and the charger never convinced me it was doing anything. I hate the battery charger I have. I would like to get one that confirms it is actually in the process of charging. Any advice on that? Besides some connections having degraded over the last week, anything I might be overlooking? I'm going to have a shop check my battery for good measure while I'm at work tomorrow.
  10. I payed $1.85 in here in mid Missouri the other day. It has still slowly been going down though. My 2500 truck cost less than $40 to fill up. That was awesome.
  11. Haven't gotten that far yet, but I will be interested in people's thoughts on this one too.
  12. Here are some pictures. Only problem now is that it won't start. I went through this before, and it is acting exactly like it did when I rebuilt the airhorn assembly on the carb. I know it's fuel and not spark because it will fire up for a second with starter fluid. I know fuel is making it to the carb because of the clear inline fuel filter I put in last time it did this. I rebuilt the airhorn because the float pins seemed to stick ever so slightly. When I did the rebuild I noted that I did not like the triangular shape of the float pins in the carb because it still seemed to stick a little even with the brand new parts. After that rebuild it started every time for the past 2 months, including just yesterday. Now I'm bathing in the frustration of getting past one set of issues just to dive right back in to an old one. Now I hope to wash that off with the wisdom of this forum.
  13. I'm sure this is something simple on the carb, but I'm not familiar with all the different adjustments and connections. I read a couple posts, but none of them seemed to be the same to me. I believe the carb has a vacuum choke, but I have just capped all the vacuum lined to the carb up until now. Its the edelbrock performer 4v, and I believe it was 650cfm if I remember correctly. The consequence of me capping everything for now is that it runs all 4 jets all the time. I'm also assuming it leaves the choke non-functioning. Anyways, I start the vehicle. Idle seems just right, and doesn't change unless I give it a little throttle. As soon as I give it any throttle (from either the pedal or the carb directly), the idle jumps up about 15%. I've also pushed the throttle on the carb the opposite way to check that the linkage isn't binding somewhere. It doesn't come back at all. Is this an adjustment? Anyone have a vacuum diagram? It is a 351W, not a 351C.
  14. Hello again everyone. I'm shopping around for air cleaners right now. This inside of my little edelbrock foam triangle got a little burnt from some starter fluid spray. That was always just my temporary one though. I always liked the idea of the ram air plenum, but I don't know if it will work with a 351W. I also have an aftermarket edelbrock intake manifold. Anyone out there tried this? Can anyone provide me with measurements to compare? The way I'm looking at it; the two measurement that matter are as follow: 1. Where is the center of the carb in relation to the hood? 2. How much clearance is required between the hood and the air cleaner mounting ring on the carb? I feel like I actually have a lot of vertical clearance and may actually have to add a carb or air cleaner spacer to make it higher. I could be wrong though. I am a little worried that my carb sits too close to the firewall, but only some measurements to compare to will tell. Any other recommendations if the plenum won't work?
  • Create New...