jpaz

Keep the Cleveland. With all the money you save from changing everything over to fit the 460, you can put that into the 351.

I was having problems with mine. One sounded absolutely sick and the other one would not work at all. Got tired of trying to find one and the repos don’t look original enough to me. I just finally went ahead and sent them to The Horn Works. Glad I did! They turned out really nice and they work great. They were never as loud as they are now. Wasn’t cheap, but like I said I got so tired of not having working horns that I just had to do something. Anyway, I hope you can find one, but if not I just wanted to let you know my experience with getting mine rebuilt.

Very cool, congratulations! Hopefully everything goes well with your procedure and you can have fun with your new toy.

Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Great car and great story. Hope you get it back in shape.

I repaired my badly cracked steering wheel and finally got around to putting it back on. Was pretty easy to fix. I used my Dremel tool to grind out the cracks to make them larger. That makes a nice surface for the epoxy to grab to, and it makes it so you can get enough epoxy in the cracks. If you just try to cram some glue or epoxy in, it just doesn’t work. I used PC7, a 2 part putty which adheres to plastic and POR Patch. The POR dries very hard and is pretty difficult to sand. The PC7 putty is much easier to sand and it seems like it should be durable enough. So I used the POR for some of

It could even be the fuel pump arm.

Well I’m no expert but I do have that same Eaton Tru Trac with 3.50 gears. I had a local shop do the change over for me though. I went from an open differential with 3:25 gears to the 3.50 gears and the Eaton and it is awesome! If you do very much freeway driving you might want a 3.25. I kept the 28 spline axles, no need for me to change them as I’m not pushing that much hp. I think I’m around 425 at the most, so I’m not worried about them holding up. As far as the drum brakes go, I have front disc with the drums out back and I have no reason to change. They work pretty good and I don’t thi

Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Sharp looking car you picked up. Hope you have good luck and lots of fun with it!

Hello and Welcome from Michigan.

I could maybe just be a rocker arm.

Here’s mine

Nothing special, 15x7 500s w/ P235 60R BFGs, KYB shocks, stock rear springs. I am planning on going to a little wider tire next time I have to get them.

Just to add... my car really does handle much better with the 7/8” bar. It was a very noticeable difference from the old wimpy 1/2 bar. Just wish they would have made it fit better to begin with. No difference with the re-designed bar other than now it fits better. So I have a 1 1/8” sway bar in the front with the 7/8 in the back. My car drives and corners very nice! Way better than before.

My builder said that the Cleveland was originally put into service with a 180* in 1970. After that they went to the 192* for emission reasons. That’s why he said to run a 180. I’ll have to see what happens in the hotter weather.

My shroud is brand new from NPD and is the stock replacement. I did measure everything and I made sure to be as close to the right recommendations as possible. I think the pics make it look closer to the radiator than it is. It was working good to keep the temp in line with the thermostat. I did have to change the thermostat to a 192*. The engine builder installed a 180* saying that it would be better, but it was running to cold. I only had a chance to drive it a couple times after I went to the 192*, seemed fine.