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    Two '72 coupes.


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    Western US
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Casey72's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

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  1. Has there been any projected time frame for availability of this rear suspension for the 71-73 cars? Suspension and brakes are my next project and I'm looking at Street or Track for this.
  2. Maybe I'll swap the camera over from the truck and get some footage. The limiting factor is my 7 year old laptop and its refusal to recognize use the video card. Watching and editing video is a non-starter. I put about 30 miles on it last night and pulled a plug. It looks good, maybe a touch darker than before set at 13.0 at cruise. WOT seems good at 12.0 and idle at 12.5 is getting it by until the new IAC arrives. It's a very nice motor on the street.
  3. I suspect that the issue was present with the old engine, but I never tripped over it. If Ben hadn't mentioned that it happened with the Windsor before the swap this might have taken longer.
  4. Congrats! I'm glad you got it running right. Your symptoms showed classic signs of ignition breakdown. The reason richening the afr improved things was likely 2fold. 1, it probably needed some of that, and 2, more fuel lowers the impedance inside the cylinder.....easier for the spark to jump the gap. I learned a bit reading this thread and I hope you'll follow up with your tune settings once you get it dialed in. I'm glad this thread was useful. I'll update as I tweak thkngs down the road.
  5. Yes but what about the people that told you your timing was in to early and it was lean so it ran noticeably better after you richened it up? :whistling: I have worked on over 1,000 cars and never had a coil do what yours dd unless it also made the engine misfire. Yes, you came in with some winning numbers. ;)
  6. I'm pretty stoked about it. After everything in this thread and a long talk with a fellow from tech support at MSD (tech support was great), the only thing that could be turned up was the possibility of a bad coil killing spark. And so it was. If you get something from this regarding your FI installation then I'll feel less bitter over the frustration. Actually, I'm pretty over the whole thing with the engine now doing good things for me.
  7. To everyone who suggested a bad coil: you win. New MSD coil was procured and installed. With much trepidation I warmed it up and took it on the road. On the big highway I shifter into second gear, brought it to 4000 RPM and stomped it. Holy crap! It was a rocket to 6000 RPM where I let off the gas. I did a couple more runs with the same results through the gears. Awesome. It will need minor tuning, I'm sure, but the thing is super quick. Someone once said that the problem with being a pessimist is that you can never celebrate when you're right. I dont think he mentioned how much sweeter the crow can taste when you're wrong, though. Thanks to everyone for the help. I picked up some knowledge and fixed my problem, so I hope others have honed their troubleshooting and gotten smarter on something. Also, my mood is much improved from the last few days.
  8. The TPS runs 0-5 volts, but I was unsure how to test it. It did show position properly when I pressed the gas pedal, though.
  9. Everything is as you describe. Frankly, I picked up a lot of what Ibe learned about making the Atomic work by reading your posts, so it's unlikely that I'd have things set much differently. My settings are the same as they have been, but I brought fuel for WOT back to 11 for now, 20 timing at idle, 34 total at 2500 and no vac advance. Cam is Performance, IAC is not playing well and pegs out when I drive it and come back to idle. The engine is a 393 Cleveland, 4V heads, Weiand X-celerator, Hooker SC headers with 2" primaries (for which Ive been called, lol), 10.4:1 compression, 242/248 @ .050" and .659"/.666" lift. It's about to get a new MSD coil from the speed shop. It's the only thing left as far as I can tell and it was suggested early on, but I tuned instead.
  10. The FI and ignition box both have rev limiters set at 7000. Doesn't mean they're not having an issue. I'm grabbing a new coil at lunch and I have a new IAC in the mail. I'll try the coil today, but I'm feeling pessimistic.
  11. There's clearly no rush at this point due to the need for new items in order for me to continue. Everyone has provided excellent guidance so far, too. I hope your family are well and I'm glad the 26 hour drive was free of drama. Thanks for dropping in and I'll look for your advice. AFR on the handheld is exactly as commanded when I'm having the problem. I'm really thinking spark now, but someone told me about that fairly early on. Regarding the AFR changes, they were part of the process of figuring things out. Ideal? Maybe, maybe not, but a good idea. I've been from valve float, through itgnition, across timing and around fuel and air. Folks have been great, with actual SMEs checking in.
  12. Unfortunately whoever wrote that is a moron and you can easily prove that to yourself by simply removing your headers and seeing how it runs then. I'm accustomed to folks with unverified or questiinable expertise spouting off about technical matters related to my field on forums, in articles and even in videos. It confuses the amateur. When it comes to automotive subjects I'm the amateur, and there's clearly no shortage of questionable information on the matter. As such, I appreciate your take on things.
  13. I don't know exactly what you are trying to say here. I'm just referring to the adjustment of the idle air control. It's done manually by turning the screws to open or close the throttle blades. More opening of the blade reduces the amount of air added by the IAC, less blade opening increases air. The amount of air added is indicated on the handheld and is ideally very close 0 at idle in neutral and 10-20 at idle in gear. More or less, anyway. Maximum is 175. Too much opening of the blades will push the engine beyond the target idle RPM set by the handheld and the computer will retard your selected idle timing in an effort to lower the idle RPM. Too little opening of the blades leans things out, makes the idle rougher and will cause timing to be increased to compensate. It's about striking a balance where idle RPM and timing match your settings in the computer, and it's done by turning screws on the throttle body.
  14. I'm going to try a new coil for now, as previously recommended here, and procure a replacement IAC.
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