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Casey72

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Everything posted by Casey72

  1. Has there been any projected time frame for availability of this rear suspension for the 71-73 cars? Suspension and brakes are my next project and I'm looking at Street or Track for this.
  2. Maybe I'll swap the camera over from the truck and get some footage. The limiting factor is my 7 year old laptop and its refusal to recognize use the video card. Watching and editing video is a non-starter. I put about 30 miles on it last night and pulled a plug. It looks good, maybe a touch darker than before set at 13.0 at cruise. WOT seems good at 12.0 and idle at 12.5 is getting it by until the new IAC arrives. It's a very nice motor on the street.
  3. I suspect that the issue was present with the old engine, but I never tripped over it. If Ben hadn't mentioned that it happened with the Windsor before the swap this might have taken longer.
  4. Congrats! I'm glad you got it running right. Your symptoms showed classic signs of ignition breakdown. The reason richening the afr improved things was likely 2fold. 1, it probably needed some of that, and 2, more fuel lowers the impedance inside the cylinder.....easier for the spark to jump the gap. I learned a bit reading this thread and I hope you'll follow up with your tune settings once you get it dialed in. I'm glad this thread was useful. I'll update as I tweak thkngs down the road.
  5. Yes but what about the people that told you your timing was in to early and it was lean so it ran noticeably better after you richened it up? :whistling: I have worked on over 1,000 cars and never had a coil do what yours dd unless it also made the engine misfire. Yes, you came in with some winning numbers. ;)
  6. I'm pretty stoked about it. After everything in this thread and a long talk with a fellow from tech support at MSD (tech support was great), the only thing that could be turned up was the possibility of a bad coil killing spark. And so it was. If you get something from this regarding your FI installation then I'll feel less bitter over the frustration. Actually, I'm pretty over the whole thing with the engine now doing good things for me.
  7. To everyone who suggested a bad coil: you win. New MSD coil was procured and installed. With much trepidation I warmed it up and took it on the road. On the big highway I shifter into second gear, brought it to 4000 RPM and stomped it. Holy crap! It was a rocket to 6000 RPM where I let off the gas. I did a couple more runs with the same results through the gears. Awesome. It will need minor tuning, I'm sure, but the thing is super quick. Someone once said that the problem with being a pessimist is that you can never celebrate when you're right. I dont think he mentioned how much sweeter the crow can taste when you're wrong, though. Thanks to everyone for the help. I picked up some knowledge and fixed my problem, so I hope others have honed their troubleshooting and gotten smarter on something. Also, my mood is much improved from the last few days.
  8. The TPS runs 0-5 volts, but I was unsure how to test it. It did show position properly when I pressed the gas pedal, though.
  9. Everything is as you describe. Frankly, I picked up a lot of what Ibe learned about making the Atomic work by reading your posts, so it's unlikely that I'd have things set much differently. My settings are the same as they have been, but I brought fuel for WOT back to 11 for now, 20 timing at idle, 34 total at 2500 and no vac advance. Cam is Performance, IAC is not playing well and pegs out when I drive it and come back to idle. The engine is a 393 Cleveland, 4V heads, Weiand X-celerator, Hooker SC headers with 2" primaries (for which Ive been called, lol), 10.4:1 compression, 242/248 @ .050" and .659"/.666" lift. It's about to get a new MSD coil from the speed shop. It's the only thing left as far as I can tell and it was suggested early on, but I tuned instead.
  10. The FI and ignition box both have rev limiters set at 7000. Doesn't mean they're not having an issue. I'm grabbing a new coil at lunch and I have a new IAC in the mail. I'll try the coil today, but I'm feeling pessimistic.
  11. There's clearly no rush at this point due to the need for new items in order for me to continue. Everyone has provided excellent guidance so far, too. I hope your family are well and I'm glad the 26 hour drive was free of drama. Thanks for dropping in and I'll look for your advice. AFR on the handheld is exactly as commanded when I'm having the problem. I'm really thinking spark now, but someone told me about that fairly early on. Regarding the AFR changes, they were part of the process of figuring things out. Ideal? Maybe, maybe not, but a good idea. I've been from valve float, through itgnition, across timing and around fuel and air. Folks have been great, with actual SMEs checking in.
  12. Unfortunately whoever wrote that is a moron and you can easily prove that to yourself by simply removing your headers and seeing how it runs then. I'm accustomed to folks with unverified or questiinable expertise spouting off about technical matters related to my field on forums, in articles and even in videos. It confuses the amateur. When it comes to automotive subjects I'm the amateur, and there's clearly no shortage of questionable information on the matter. As such, I appreciate your take on things.
  13. I don't know exactly what you are trying to say here. I'm just referring to the adjustment of the idle air control. It's done manually by turning the screws to open or close the throttle blades. More opening of the blade reduces the amount of air added by the IAC, less blade opening increases air. The amount of air added is indicated on the handheld and is ideally very close 0 at idle in neutral and 10-20 at idle in gear. More or less, anyway. Maximum is 175. Too much opening of the blades will push the engine beyond the target idle RPM set by the handheld and the computer will retard your selected idle timing in an effort to lower the idle RPM. Too little opening of the blades leans things out, makes the idle rougher and will cause timing to be increased to compensate. It's about striking a balance where idle RPM and timing match your settings in the computer, and it's done by turning screws on the throttle body.
  14. I'm going to try a new coil for now, as previously recommended here, and procure a replacement IAC.
  15. As it turns out, AFR only goes down to 10.0. It didnt matter. The problem persists. Won't rev beyond 4500 and there's no acceleration at WOT. Part throttle driving, even pretty deep into he pedal, is pretty awesome. The numbers it's spitting out at WOT don't look bad at all. Everything is tracking, but the engine bogs and rumbles, won't accelerate and there's a strong smell of fuel when at WOT. I'm at the point of "no impact, no idea" with this issue. The good news (lol) is that I know why the IAC has been so touchy as of late. It has gone out. It was perfect during idle today and I figured I'd really nailed it. After driving for a bit it pegged out and only came down a little one time. Since then, it pegs out as soon as it's driven. I'll be asking MSD about the issue now.
  16. I've heard something similar, but not the pipe organ part. I'm willing enough to jump into things to be dangerous. Actual knowledge...well, that's why I'm here.
  17. +1. I would start with the O2 sensor, bad, loose, or bad connection. The location sounds good. I also agree with you that the 2" primaries are too big, more suited to wide open exhaust/racing/radical build. I've been looking for the system to throw me faults, which it hasn't, but I doubt that's necessary for there to be a problem. As for the headers, I've read that you can't go too big and that smaller is better on the street. And that it isn't. In the end, the exhaust ports were 2.1" x 1.95", so I went with 2" primaries for the stroker, which I had seen recommended somewhere. I won't pretend to know the best answer for primary size at this point.
  18. It has a rough idle, but a "this thing will die at stoplights" idle with too little throttle blade dialed in.
  19. I don't remember the last time I had it at WOT with the previous engine. If it's a WOT issue it wouldn't have shown up for me, at least not recently. I've been thinking on it all day and wondering about the TPS and fuel circuits. You're right, if 9.0 doesn't work, I don't think the problem will be tuning.
  20. I'll look at AFR damn close tomorrow at the throttle. I didn't video the readings today. And WOT will be set to 9. xlnt . yeah check afrs while driving before and after the change so you have some sort of number trail to follow vs performance etc. That's still the plan and I believe that the tuning so far has been necessary. That being said, my "extra set of hands" buddy says that a momentary bit of WOT gave him a similar problem just before the engine was swapped. It was just an instant at WOT before backing off and the engine was getting swapped out shortly, so it didn't seem like much of an issue until I bitched to him about it. Well, maybe it was significant and would have come up in conversation had he not left town prior to the engine swap. So, I'll tune some more and take it up with MSD tech support if I'm not successful. I appreciate everyone's suggestions and assistance so far. I'll provide more information as I try things out.
  21. ahh . the lot thickens . what does your afr gauge say when you accelerate with 3/4 throttle? what does it say when you accelerate with wot? definitely set the wot afr to 9 leave cruise afr at 12.5 I'll look at AFR damn close tomorrow at the throttle. I didn't video the readings today. And WOT will be set to 9.
  22. Will do. How far it revs depends a bit on throttle position. Nearly WOT revs higher to 4500. WOT is dead at 4000.
  23. The idle air control has to be set manually by adjusting the throttle blades. The idle air control is touchy, to say the least, requiring a small amount of compromise. If there is too little air from the IAC (throttle blades are open too far by a hair) the computer will retard timing to make the target idle RPM happen. Thus, a setting of 20 degrees in the computer turns into 18 degrees when the engine is idling. Alternately, too little throttle blade and the IAC pumps a bunch of air, harming idle quality, but not having to retard the timing set in the computer to keep idle RPM on target. Timing is 20 at idle in this case. I've chosen the former option, so it's showing 18 degrees at idle. Manual adjustment of timing at the distributor isn't possible for any driving. Initial timing must remain set at 15 BTDC for use of the fuel injection's timing control. Accelerator pump is also a setting, not a physical change. Very easily done. In 2nd gear the engine will rev to 4000-4500 in second at or near WOT, but will hardly continue to climb in RPM and produces no acceleration while heading toward 5000 RPM. So, 18 degrees at idle and 2nd gear revs to around 4500 at WOT.
  24. I'll need a new air cleaner, too, then. Header primaries are 2", which are big enough to fit the exhaust ports. The plugs look the same. Electrodes are bare metal with a slight dark tan powdering. Dark tan deposits stronger on the tips. This was after a good 20 minutes of idling followed by 15 minutes of driving with 12.5 AFR vs. 14.0 AFR from yesterday.
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