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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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About Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  • Birthday 03/05/1948

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    Multiple Mustangs!

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    Western North Carolina
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    Northeast

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  1. I have to go help someone with painting their home. DO NOT USE THE FOAM TAPE. NPD even states in their catalog not to use it. It does not work on window or roof rail. Ford did not have time on the line to hammer and dolly the window openings flat. So they put the least expensive, cleanest possible solution in but not the best for sure. REMEMBER you have to do the headliner first. You should go over the window opening and hammer and dolly and grind any raged areas smooth. Of course paint as needed. Always test fit your trim before putting in the window and seal. Much easier to put on and take off when you can see the clips. Should only take one thumb to push in place if more something is wrong. Never hammer in place something is wrong. There is a special hook too to pull the corners of the rubber into place you can get from any body shop supply house I use Auto Body Toolmart go to their web site. Also use the correct non hardening 3-M sealer made for rubber seals. It is called Bedding & Glazing and the 3-M # is 08509 here is a link to a supplier. https://www.jbtools.com/3m-08509-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-cartridge-1-10-gallon/?wi=off&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzZa9yNaa8wIVE7SzCh1gwwTkEAQYAiABEgKxvPD_BwE I cut the smallest opening I can in the tube. I put a tiny bead in the channel for the glass. Then a tiny bit along the bottom of the opening for the glass and spread out with finger. Then you put your cord in the rubber and have someone help you set the bottom of the rubber and glass over the bottom lip in the opening. Then someone gets into the car and pulls while the other massages the corners in. NEVER USE METAL TOOLS EXCEPT FOR THE HOOK MADE FOR THE INSTALL. If you use anything use plastic trim tools or wooden dowels ground to a wedge. With the glass in then you have your helper take a plastic trim tool and lift the edge of the rubber seal from the outside and put a tiny amount of the Bedding between rubber and window opening. NEVER FILL THE CHANNEL LIKE CJ PONEY SAYS TO DO IN THEIR INSTALL VIDEO. I would then put in the sun and let it settle in place pushing down all the way around. Put a small piece of tape where each window clip is and lay the trim in place and push down lightly to clip. Should never leak ever. Some go around the opening with wide masking tape to protect while working there up to you. A couple of the lifting suction cups helps a lot but not required.
  2. PF is a mad house when they have shows. Can take over an hour just to pass through on the 4 lane. We are having local Mustang show here so I am taking two cars to it. Worked on my story board display some added a grill ornament.
  3. Great that all the pieces are falling into place. You will have to get use to more rainfall for sure. I was cruising around Youtube the other day and saw this video about a 1965 Mustang running SS/L class running a 289. I think they said rules had to use stock block, crank, carburetor, heads and valve sizes. His dad started running when he was in pre school and stopped for a while and the son picked it back up. When I worked in shop we built 289's for an owner that would go past 9,000 rpm using the HiPo heads. At some of the cars shows recently there was lots of buzzing about the Ford 7.3 truck motors. The aftermarket has jumped on this new canted valve engine and looks like it will be on the strip a lot. Already broke some class records so I am sure they will rule book it to death like all Ford engines in the past. They are getting 780 HP out of the 7.3 with no nitro and not blower. With a small blower they are up to 1,450 HP and 1,030 Torque using stock block, crank and heads with 16.5 lbs. boost and stock head gaskets. Just going from memory on what my boss did to them was that he went with triple valve springs that he mixed and matched from different vehicles. He kept them almost coil bound to prevent harmonics from taking over them and floating the valves. He altered the domes on 327 Chevy pop up pistons and did not run head gaskets. Heads were lapped to the block. I am sure compression was around 14 - 1 but do not have any of his records. he passed probably 20 years ago. So here is link to the 289 screamer. Will be great to hear your results and get it into something to run. My nephew has just got his 289 running in his MG. Lots of fab work in the suspension and exhaust for sure but it should be a blast in autocross and hope to have some video of it on track soon. The MSD distributor is too tall will not clear hood so looking for a shorter model. This combination of hot rod is becoming common with the 289 being a cheap engine to obtain and also the MG bodies are cheap and light. They are making the suspension and other components needed. video-1630883246.mp4
  4. We have discussed this several times recently Toni found a small temp. spare out of a Kai that fits the Mustang bolt pattern. Go look for his post for details. Now just for information. The sports roof, coupe and convertible only got space saver spares if you got the Magnum 500 15" wheel option and the spare was a 14" BFG space saver. You would never want to use one of them except for show. In the day they killed several people that pumped them up using a compressor. There was a recall that put a pop off valve in the rim to prevent exploding from over pressure. If you had a space saver spare originally you would have the bracket in the picture that is off to the RH side. Oddly enough cars with space saver has the normal bracket also. If you have a fold down then it is hidden under the rear panels. Without fold down you should be able to fit and F-70 X 14" spare in your trunk. The J bolt does not have to go through the center hold can be a lug bolt hole to move it back from seat partition if needed. You probably know that no sportsroof, Mach 1, coupes or verts got the trunk mat. Only Grande got a woven mat not plastic and no tire covers ever. If your car has the bracket in the picture it came with Magnum 500 wheels and had a space saver spare. A regular size spare will never fit onto this bracket.
  5. I have refinished many consoles and have never had an issue with the SEM paints matching. You should be using the paint not the dye. ABS hard parts use the paints that I have always had 100% perfect match with. You need to strip all the old paints off the console first using oven cleaner. Then wash with Dawn and hot water and then a wipe down with lacquer thinner before paint. Only two light coats are needed. If you put too much paint on you fill in the texture and will look odd for sure. I have never had a complaint on finish or color using the SEM paints. I get mine from NPD. I have a blue interior 72 Mach 1 that came with full length console but it has never needed to be refurbished. As far as getting it scanned and mix paint that would be a huge cost for just your console. Have been doing them for over 50 years started with 65 console.
  6. He is probably ok but he should not have put coolant back in until it cooled off. Putting cold coolant into a hot engine can cause the most damage by warping a head. Be sure he used distilled water also. If not he needs to change and flush with distilled water and 50% antifreeze mixture.
  7. The 5E is only one listed in Marti's book Mustang by the Numbers. 5 is Mach 1 sports interior and E is Vermilion. There was red listed in 67, 68, 69 but in 70, 71, 72 it was Vermilion and no Vermilion in 73. What is your exterior paint code and I will look up how many they made? There were several that were one for exterior color with 5E interior, Yellow, Goldenrod and Grabber blue are three that jumped out. They made one of each.
  8. I have a 72 vert that the PO put vinyl on the rear side panels. It was a PW car and for some reason he cut the wires to the switches in the back and covered over the holes. What was really bad is the fact that the plastic panels were not chalk and looked great. He took 36 grit and sanded them to glue the vinyl to them and ruined them.
  9. On the seat tracks I did figure out how to get them apart so that I could clean the old grease out and replace the bearings. I ended up drilling the big stop rivets out then got new ball bearings at the Ace Hardware store and just cleaned up the large diameter, I think .750" rollers. Put phosphate on one and paint on the other to equal factory finish. Might do a how to later on them. Not much you can do about the indents the ball bearings leave in the tracks from vibrating in same spot all the time. I guess you could weld up and grind back but for what gain. For them to work correct and everything fit you need to get the year that you are working on. Like Don stated there were changes that moved the back release from center to outside and the plastic piece on the hinge is different on early ones.
  10. You have rust around the opening in the cowl for the heater box. You can pull the heater box and probably do some temporary fix with some epoxy.
  11. I do not think there was a drum power brake set up. Not 100% sure on that. If you have disc up front and drum rear and say Power Disc on pedal you have PDB. The master cylinder is different on 72 & 73 for PDB being 15/16" dia. and drum is 1" 1971 all were 1". If switching to PDB the pedal is different and nobody had the original booster, Bendix. I build my own costs so much to sent to Oregon to get built. Usually not much wrong inside. I should start rebuilding on east coast I have a fixture to take apart and assemble. I found all the parts after years of searching. I am out right now I just sent a member three sets over seas. Lots to change going to PDB, spindles, hoses, hard lines, proportioning valve, pedal so know what you need before you start.
  12. What you change is your option. A bigger rear sway bar will not help you on normal driving and might not on autocross. I see you have lucked out and your factory shipping brackets are still bolted to the frame. Most were removed as Ford requested by a sticker behind the rear license plate. I had them leave mine on.
  13. There is absolutely nothing wrong with drum brakes. We use to build race cars and use drum brakes before disc. If you run through water just touch the brake pedal and dry in seconds. One issue is that nobody grinds the shoes to fit the drums anymore. I have a brake shoe grinder for that reason. You can slide all four tires with drum brakes all around. disc will not make the tires stick better. Unless racing not really a benefit. Disc drag all the time and actually if you go back to factory info I think a disc brake car has 1mpg less mileage than drum. Here is picture of a shoe grinder you can pick one up for $350 if you look around. If you do not grind has to wear in to fit. The brakes are just one component in stopping tires are what grips the road.
  14. The valve cover with emission sticker was a 73 thing. Might have been changed. The 2-V block is same as 4-V 4 bolt you can machine to use the 4 bolt caps. That is a good price really.
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