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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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About Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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    Mustang Guru
  • Birthday 03/05/1948

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    Multiple Mustangs!

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    Western North Carolina
  • Region
    Northeast

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    Male

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  1. I have my own little way of doing install and no danger. I have also put second rod in for when spoiler is installed on vert or coupe. You put the rod in place on the adjustment side in the middle and then just take a pipe wrench and twist the end of the rod until it goes into hinge. Then you put your jack under the rod and jack up and I use a seal puller to snap the rod into the hinge. I have one more L.H. spring if you have spoiler and need PM me $60.00 + ship. No special tools at all.
  2. If yours is like the two I have serviced lately that would not do much. If your AC / Heater has never been serviced if probably had lots of stuff in there. Rodents love to go in through the Cowl Vent drains and place acorns, pee, poo and build nests inside the heater box. The foam also starts to fall apart and there is lots of foam inside the box. Here are some pics of my last box I took out lots of crap in there. Also you usually find a mouse nest in the cowl they love to get in the tight places. You can stop them by putting 1/4" bx screen wire on the inside of your plastic cowl vent screens. Zip tie and paint flat black and cannot be seen. I also put a piece of stainless steel scrubber pad in the cowl vent drains to keep the mice out. Also a piece of the mesh wire between cowl and the heater box and now way for anything to get in there. Snakes end up in there also looking for the mice. So I do not think that product would have cleaned that up.
  3. I think they usually call them a dryer filter. You should also maybe get you some new O-rings. If when you take apart the O-rings are black they have not been updated to R-134 type which are green. So if black you need to change them all. On the ends of all the hoses and on the expansion valve at the firewall. Two in front two in rear. Also There are three O-rings that get missed on the compressor. There is a fill plug on top and a drain plug on bottom and a vent on the rear of the compressor. if you still have your 73 compressor you do not have the isolation service ports like 71 & 72 had. I would also get new schrade valves for the service ports. You can get at any parts house. If you do not have the larger service ports for R-134 you will need them also. You probably want to change the compressor oil also. Be sure and clean all the O-ring seats and I put a small amount of compressor lube on the rings or mineral oil will work. I put small amount of anti seize on the male threads on the connections to make easier to get loose next time. Be sure to support the connections with another wrench so you do not twist any of the hard connections when taking lines off or putting on. When you tighten do it several times tighten, loosen and tighten to work the flange and O-ring in. You will need to pull a vacuum on the system to remove all moisture before you put any refrigerant back in. If you have never done and do not have gauges and pump you might want to take to AC shop.
  4. If you need a shorter element I do believe the stock 4-V element is shorter than the RA.
  5. Like all have said it is a 73. Yes the vinyl roof was actually called a 3/4 vinyl roof. I ordered mine with one and it is still there never replaced. View from my parts attic in garage. Marti took some creative writing when he did my Marti report. He changed the name of the 3/4 Ginger Vinyl roof to a Kiwi, lol. It was a $52.35 option. In 71 not so many just over 100 built but more common in 72 & 73 I have put my copy of the Mustang by the Numbers so cannot give the numbers. I think the vinyl roof breaks the car up to look better. Preview video-1555166327 (3).mp4
  6. I will get you some dimensions later today for the speaker grills.
  7. It could have been altered. But you will have a 6 digit DSO code and the build sheet will list on the bottom half any Special Trim or Paint. If it did not involve government testing Ford would do about anything. There were hundreds built ever year check Marti's Mustang by the Numbers book.
  8. I am running out of light things to do fast. I have most of the brackets, and bolt on parts reworked and wrapped. A few still lost in the piles of parts but will pick out as I find. I am probably going to do the convertible top frame next. Has anyone found a real kit that replaces all the nylon bushings and washers in the top frame. How about a great new tack strip insert for the bows? I am thinking of going to talk to my engine guy Ben Barnes and see if we need to plan out the buy of parts. We do have local shop that makes parts for NASCAR. My friend with the GTO had them make his pistons custom for his 18 to 1 compression engine. I know Bill Elliott pushed the compression on the 351 out the top was what gave him the edge in the day and they lived. The engine is last thing needed and does not need to sit in the corner and not turn over tough on valve springs. They are having a run at the Charlotte track on the Roval later this month wish I were ready. Would love to record the sound of a sweet cleveland on the Roval.
  9. Ok one thing this very unclear. The 73 mounting surface on the carburetor for the air cleaner housing is different. It is about 1" closer to the hood than 71 & 72 due to EGR plate and different engine mounts. The air cleaner box on a 73 is different. The repo units are made to which dimension???? If you put a 71 -72 on a 73 it has to compress the rubber seal an additional 1" or bow the hood up. You need to do some more research before you buy.
  10. The number over the starter will not tell you the block you have. Both 2 bolt and 4 bolt blocks have the same number and yes there are other numbers for some special editions. Date code will be next to the part number on the block above starter. Here is a good link to understand the casting and part numbers. http://www.mustangtek.com/block/Block.html
  11. Great to see you taking to bare metal. On one of the facebook forums a so called expert is saying just sand the old paint and paint over it. Not very professional in my opinion. I have been stripping lots of parts and have not found any that did not have surface rust buried under the original Ford paint. On the Q vert the PO had the body dipped stripped and was back to rolling chassis with primer. I was block sanding the RF fender and saw some color so I got DA and yep he had switched fenders and it had not been stripped. When I got down to metal there was the usual rust. Parts sat around for weeks back then JIT and FIFO had not kicked in. Even with that parts sit in rework areas for weeks at a time. 50 year old paint is not what you want to put a few thousand dollars in new paint on for sure. Keep on sanding.
  12. I have looked at everything out there. The early models had a darker paint in trunk. I have never found anything that matches. I have an original car and nothing matches....
  13. Bonding a panel in a vehicle is not something you do at home or a body shop. I was Automotive product, process and tooling engineer. The process to bond panels is very close tolerance. If you have too little thickness to too much it does not work. Lots of time on NOS you put dimples in the panels to set gaps and use Togsloc or spot welds to hold in place during cure. Do not try to glue panels will not work at home or a body shop.
  14. I know it is difficult to find links on the forum sometimes. There is info on the Forum for the locks. There is a way to center the hole perfect and are in the site instructions. I also hear you say you are going to media blast your car. I have never seen any media that did not warp panels except dip strip or plastic media. Plastic will not remove rust. It is a natural law of physics. There is an opposite and equal reaction to any force. There is more than heat involved in media blasting. It hammers the surface and warps the metal. Be very careful.
  15. So if it had the protection trim the car was not a Mach 1. Sportsroof but no big thing.

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Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

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