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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. I think someone did not read the information. The reason for the Swedish Steel being better is there are no weld issue. BTW has anything you worked on been given the most innovative use of there steel before, mine has. Their steel is way ahead of others. This is way ahead of anything being used in sub frame connectors or roll bars currently. If not so please publish the information.
  2. Just give me my Kodachrome again, lol. Color is so subjective in today's computer world with no real color scope.
  3. Before you ever go to paint you need to have the chassis on the wheels and weight equal to an assembled car on the chassis. If the quarter panels were not installed on a chassis JIG you are out of luck. The bottom of the door and the rocker are the starting point. If the quarter door jam gaps are not right there is no adjustment. You have to cut the quarter and adjust to the door. These cars were not perfect from the factory and if you want perfect you picked the wrong car. Nobody worried about gaps back then. It was a $3,000 to $5,000 cheap car. Accept that or go on with life.
  4. The cost is not the issue. My customers always looked at cost. They would not have used it it was not cost effective. If you want the best cost has little influence. Ether best or junk.
  5. The welding of this material was never an issue and the program we use on was awarded the Swedish Steel best use for that year. It is way better than anything out there and way easier to weld. Why knock it?
  6. If you love green go for it. But too much for me,lol. Need to break up colors to be sane.
  7. I have done lots of consoles. The Carpenter lids are perfect matches as are their ash trays. The lighted ash tray was a Cougar only thing. But my 73 Mach 1 had a lighted ash tray. Those guys on the line just took a part to the line no backing up with 2 min. to finish their tasks.
  8. For sure you are moving along. Glad you went to the Tech school to get in shape for all the welding. Great work you are doing your brother an honor building this car.
  9. I am a believer in building a car to what you intend to use it. 50% or deaths in crashes happen below 35 mph just saw that on the net today and the net does not lie, lol. Not joking. I worked with Swedish Steel to use their materials in automotive and farm equipment designs to make stronger and lighter. I am working with Swedish Steel to see if they are willing to make inch sizes in tubing or just metric. The current SCCA rules call for roll bars to be 1.5" .120" thickness tube for roll bars on cars over 1,500 lbs. or 1.75" .095" wall. I am working with as mfg of tube benders and they cu
  10. On the diesel 4 door ranger. I had hunting clients that had been ridding in the back of one of them for days and he did not believe it was a diesel. No smell and no rattle. Sometimes the US gets the short end of the stick. With the millions of part numbers Ford has there has to be some mistakes. We will never know.
  11. All I know is this is a 100% original and that is where the spoiler is on this car. I would have expected it was a hydraulic off line pierce fixture to add the holes. Had to be included in the Buck before paint. It for sure did not concern me as far as accuracy and I was tool and die maker.
  12. Will happen lots soon. My piles of NOS parts will be sold at auction when I am gone for sure. In the next 20 years the Mustang prices will drop like a rock. The new generations have zero interest.
  13. The Avocado color was a 1973 only color for interior. There was only 917 in the vert do not know total. Might be tough color.
  14. I think Midlife has dried up in the dry south west. He does not know how to live without 99% humidity and at least two floods from hurricanes a year. Hope he is out there. I for sure do not know anything about wiring, lol.
  15. There are two different ones. 1971 has one center vertical bar 72 & 73 has three I believe. I have some but I have several cars with AM/FM or AM / 8 track.
  16. I am a retired product, process and tooling engineer for automotive. Gaps were not a big concern back then. You are talking about a 5 year throw away car that is now 50 years old. If you did not take your chassis to the frame shop before you started you cannot win. The chassis can be bent by jacking up wrong. The rust hast take at least 50% of the strength away also. I would ask also are you doing gaps sitting on tires with weight of engine and all the pieces there? If not it will be different when you do add the weight. I have a California 197 vert that does not have a rust hole anywhere. I
  17. We supplied many of Ford's plants with stampings. On service parts we would save up all the rejects from the stamping line and keep in warehouse and when Ford place a service part order we sent them the rejects, lol. If those panels were not zinc coated the get rust on them and the service parts went to e-coat and have rust under the paint. Any panel you get Ford or repo should be stripped on the outside likely to find rust. I have sanded a lot this year and I have not found a Ford panel that did not have rust under the factory paint. The Q vert I am sanding now the PO had it back in primer an
  18. I took my spoiler off and posted pics of the measurements before. It is way crooked as most things are on these cars. For sure that car is way off so much bad info out there. For sure my car is original I did not even let the dealership do their prep. Shipping brackets stayed on and the IBM punch cards and odd bolts in the floor. It was factory installed. I have never even noticed it being so crooked either.
  19. Your are right on the Oxford but when they mixed it I watched them add black and other tints also. Was not just white. BTW that is my yellow hood in the picture with the black. The other areas that got the black that most miss is around the front side marker on 73 Mach 1 and beside tail light opening in rear. Yes the brochure shows both ways but every original paint 73 Mach 1 I have looked at was blacked out. Looks much better. This is the yellow car has decor group so black on tail light also. The sprayed the black on before stripes and mine is flaking off.
  20. Yes I would want the hitch. I have a rear section off a vert I am going to make a mustang trailer out of to take to shows. What model do you have? 73 is different due to bumper position. Have a beach umbrella, cooler and stuff for shows. I am just going to do from door jam back not to front of door like this one.
  21. I bought them years ago when people pulled them off and put on wider wheels. They were $5.00 - $10.00 at swap meets nobody wanted 6" wide wheels, lol. Last parts car I bought had them on.
  22. Lots of mysteries out there for sure. We use to supply the old Ford Ranger program. The standard cab was called a model 10 and the extended cab was a Model 13. I believe we made 20 pair of prototype inside cab corners for a four door Ranger cab. They never made it to market here in U.S. but did in South America and also in Africa and you could get a turbo diesel in Africa. Is it possible that the odd part number is from Mexico or foreign country. Here is a pic of my 73 Q code with the factory exhaust. You can see that the rear pipe has a resonator built into the pipe you can see in the turn
  23. I do not know that I would be afraid of the .060" over bore. You might want to have someone do a sonic check of the wall thickness and see if there was core shift in the casting giving a thin spot. I know we bored them to .060" back in the 60's when I worked in engine shop. Put domed TRW pistons in and bumped the compression up over 13 - 1. They really sound good and crisp with high compression. We built for circle track and drag racers. I know one that for 13 years on strip before he tore it down ran in the high 12's back then in stock body 65 mustang coupe. You are only talking about 5 hum
  24. Great info. I do not do that much anymore so I will keep manual.
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