Jump to content

Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

Benefactors
  • Posts

    7,942
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    53

Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. I have posted several times. Here are pics of a NOS set of speakers. If you find the old speaker frames they can replace the cones done all the time. I just bought two doors last week that had door speakers and Power Windows difficult harness to find for sure.
  2. Ford and the repo people always do that. They do not care if you have to do extra work. When Ford went to service for the rear quarters they were all 73 with the extra holes in them also. Lots of people do not notice and get paint on and then have to weld them up.
  3. Interesting that you could get out without moving the dash rearward. It is only like 8 bolts to do that. I tell people I will do a heater core for half what shop quote is for labor. They are crazy expensive to get replaced.
  4. Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.
  5. A ZZ disc in the player in the garage right now.
  6. On the wobble. Check to see that your nut is not bottoming out on the threads on the spindle. You might try putting an extra washer on the outside just to make sure it is not bottomed out and giving you a wrong torque reading. Maybe spindle threads not long enough. You might try swapping sides with the hub and see if it wobbles on both spindles. One mistake some owner's make when installing any bearing it to hit it with a hammer. Yes in an emergency you can use a piece of pipe to hit only the inner race on a ball bearing. You should always use a hydraulic press to install bearings and especially the races in the hub. I had two uncles that worked for Timken bearing in Canton Ohio. I got to do a full tour of the facility from making the steel to finished products out the door. They made bearings you could sit inside, for the steel rolling mills, down to tiny small ones. The tolerances are held to millionths of an inch. Pretty much all gauges were air gauges to be able to check close enough. Tapered bearings like in the front hubs are much easier to make than ball bearings. If the outer race is a little bigger it just lets the bearing cage drop in a little deeper. As long as the angles on the races and bearings are right it all works out. If Covid had not hit I was headed to China to follow tooling being built for Timken bearing. Just by chance met the buyer and nobody at Timken wanted to go to China. Why I do not know safer there than here. I need to make contact with him now I could use some mad money.
  7. I had seen this before also. The only thing that I find different is that when I remove the factory applied seam sealer and sound deadening there is no primer under it. They said primer then sealer but I have never seen that on any of my cars.
  8. I have never seen yellow seals in any of my engines even the one I bought new. I am betting someone changed them in the past to prevent them from getting into the pan. When I was a teenager I made the tools to change the seals on a Y block without pulling the heads. Later made one for 289 - 302. I just cleaned them up in the molasses tank the other day. I will look when in the shop later. I think the originals have the Ford logo on them.
  9. Looks like I answered my question. There is a video on youtube showing how to change the shift seal. Here is link if anyone is also looking. Not difficult just have to pull the pan and the valve body out.
  10. With Covid my 1973 vert just sat in the shop. I had couple guys come to look at parts last week so I got them to help me push it over to the lift. When we moved it big puddle of automatic transmission fluid on the floor. The last time I drove it looked like I had a coolant leak at one of the connections on the water pump for the heater core. Turned out to be the thermostat housing and I got that done yesterday. While at the parts store I got a rear seal for the C-4 but I think it is also leaking at the shifter. Yes this is a 351-C that did not come with a C-4 but the PO swapped out the FMX for a C-4 with shift kit. Works great just need to stop some of the dripping. The car sat for 27 years which is not good for seals. Can I change the seal on the shifter without removing pan or transmission? I have never worked on automatic other than change fluid and filter. I wanted to drive it to the Mustang Owner's Museum this weekend for the delayed Mustang Day celebration. Not going for all three days spent too much on travel already this year. Headed to shop to put on lift and take a look at leaks. Thanks for any suggestions or links to the repair.
  11. A question for you. Does your leaf springs still have the clamps around them to hold them together? If not you need them to help with spring wrap up. Back when money was tight we use to take another main leaf spring and cut the eye off the front and cut the back off just back where the axle housing mount sits. Would add this 1/2 leaf to the front side of the springs on top of the main leaf. We would make two clamps for the front and one for the rear and really helped with wheel hop and wrap up and just used a junk spring. You can see the stock clamps in this picture.
  12. Try tightening your header bolts again. Sometimes an exhaust leak will sound like a tick. Pull the valve covers and while the engine idles put a wood dowel on each rocker and push on it to find the one with tick. Lots of things it can be but if just a tick don't worry too much. My F-150 has had a tick since brand new and now has 312,000 miles on it still ticks.
  13. I see that your tail light housing is like most of them turned off color inside due to heat. I blast them with walnut shells to remove the powder surface and then spray with Fusion paint by Krylon in Satin white. Makes the lights much brighter and the housings look new. I use for the side marker light housings and also the front turn signal on the 73.
  14. Something odd is that in 1973 there were no Cobra Jet engines but the Ford document calls it a CJ. Marti does not and none of the Ford brochures show it either. The service manuals show CJ and HO in 73 they never got corrected.
  15. I just picked up a Power Window set up on Friday out of Mach 1. Be careful taking the pancake motors apart they are scarce for sure and WCCC video is a great help. Use the Lucas Oil Red N Tacky #2 grease instead of the old white grease much better. Use on the tracks and rollers also. Lots of cleaning to do on them I am sure. Doing mine now.
  16. When I stated sanding on the 1972 Q code vert I bought as a failed restoration I found the drivers door NOT SO GOOD. He had done some patching on the rusty bottom and there was way too much body filler for my taste. So taking that door off is what finished my neck off. I have been looking everywhere, facebook marketplace and Craigslist for a better door. Most were just as bad as what I have. Then last week I found a pair of doors with power windows and he had the rear PW also. So I went and picked them up on Friday. Was sitting parked on I-40, due to a crash miles ahead, and it was 95 deg. My truck AC does not work so I was cooking. It got to 98 before I headed back home. The doors are pretty solid, tearing them down now, and I will only need the drivers door as far as I know. The Power Windows will go to Ebay. I needed the rear switch bases but only one was present in this set. It was also a door speaker car so the wire harness for the front doors includes the door speakers which if very difficult to find. The front bezels are there but for sure not pristine would need a re plate to be show quality. He did not have the under hood and under dash part of the wire harness so no solenoid. The guy selling the parts was clearing out his dad's hoard of parts and cars. He had over 200 cars and all but a few are gone. Even had 1932 and 1934 fords. He said they were the only two cars that actually brought more money than his dad paid for them. He backed up the fact that all the old guys are dying off and getting lower and lower prices for the older cars. He said the 55, 56 and 57 cheys he had brought way less than his dad paid for them years ago. The last two mustangs he has is a 1966 vert that was a T code 6 cylinder with bench seat. I looked at it but not worth even $500, no title and not door tag but the VIN# is still in the inner fender so you could get title. No engine and had automatic shifter but had clutch pedal. He is due to send me pics of the 1966 fastback he has that I have interest in for a flipper. I have several people searching for them of course. He had two more Fords I was interested in but he would not let me see them. A 1949 Ford Woodie Wagon and a 1951 Mercury Woodie Wagon. The Mercury would be a real find. I do not think I have ever seen one in person. He said his wife wants that one. When I get the Power Window stuff boxed up for Ebay will send link to ad. Oh BTW one guy on Marketplace wanted $800 for a bare door nothing but the door and not that great. I drove back through Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, Tenn.. WOW were the tourists out by the thousands. Saw one lone elk in a field just before getting to Cherokee.
  17. I just bought two 1972 doors Friday and have the deluxe door release if you need send me a PM.
  18. I am sure you did not have a place to grind the shoes to fit the drums. Most shops got rid of the brake shoe grinders due to the asbestos in the linings. If not ground to fit the drum it takes long time to wear in and have good brakes. Also if drum is bell mouth that is not good either. You should also remove any step on the backing plate where the shoes ride they can hang up on the steps. Here are some pics of the Ammco brake shoe grinder I have in my shop. I got the brake drum and disc lathe at an auction for $350 and the shoe grinder was $150 with the table I think it was. I cleaned them up and painted. So don't criticize your brakes if not good and let them wear in. Also do several fast back ups and hit the brakes to adjust them out properly.
  19. On the console you do not dye the ABS plastic parts you paint them with the SEM paint you can get from NPD. They also have new console lids if you need one. The extra plug under the drivers seat was for power seat option in Cougar. You can put in mustang but was not a standard option. Prep of the console is very important due to most having Armor all put on and that makes it almost impossible to paint without fish eyes.
  20. You can look with a mirror to see if backwards easy to do. Go look at the pic I sent the corners are way different will be easy to tell. Might be the issue not a water pump. The boiling after shutting off is big sign of head gasket wrong.
  21. I have tried to get the nob off also with no luck good to see a pic with threads on the stem. Will try again I think I have six but quit working on them could not get the nob off. THANKS
  22. My opinion waste of money. 2 post is way better. Go to shops and see how many 4 post you see, NONE. If you need storage expand building less cost. What do you do with the stored vehicle when you need the lift?
  23. I would ask you to go to the working shops out there and see how many have 4 post, NOT MANY. The four post allows you to lift the car 6' up and then you can jack it up to work on it. That is the craziest thought I have ever heard of. Needless to say I have a two post. I have worked on anything from my F-150 super crew to Hondas. I use it when just wiping down my mustang. It is a Dannmar asymmetrical 10,000 lb. lift that is certified. The asymmetrical allows you to get in and out of vehicle easier. I installed mine at 69 years of age with no help but an engine lift. The cut laser slots in the base to use to align with a chalk line you snap on the floor. No rocket science. I rented an impact drill for the anchor bolts and was done in 30 min. I have heard member talk about their Benpac units having the oil tank just burst at night and gallons of oil all over the shop. No pressure in the tank just oil storage. Like I say no issue with mine. They say 4" concrete but I went more where the columns were. Go talk to shops that work on cars every day and you will hear the same thing get a 2 post lift. Cheaper to build a larger building than stack cars on a lift with oil dripping down on the car under it. I can send you all kinds of pictures and info on the lift. I do not know anyone that works on cars that has a 4 post and yes they have accidents also. Saleen uses Dannmar lifts. My son works at BMW the use only 2 post lifts at the factory. Waste of your efforts to have a 4 post. The ramps are always in the way. Nothing in the way with two post. They have two post for low ceiling also. I will be using mine tomorrow to put in a rear seal in the automatic transmission. Here is a great example of how a two post is better. I used the two post to lift the chassis and mount onto the rotisserie. Impossible on a 4 post.
  24. I myself will never buy a new car again. They are raping the public. They took all the labor out of the build and demand a 3 - 5 % decrease in parts prices every year but jack the prices to the moon. THEY ARE IDIOTS AND YOU ARE TOO IF YOU BUY ONE. Quit buying them and the price will drop like a rock.
  25. They have been trying to play that car up to make money. Nothing special at all. Was on Ebay years ago. Just the TV guys trying to make more money.
×
×
  • Create New...