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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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Posts posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. Now you can forget all the hurricane warnings. I have never understood those that had to live where you knew you were going to get wiped out?? You were smart to get out.
    Those that live in river flood planes and in storm surge areas at coast should not be allowed to have insurance. Just makes us common sense people pay more. Live there if you want to but you pay for it not others.

  2. Well I dropped the hammer on another 8 point not as big as last one but will be hanging in a few. My rifle has not been checked on bench in over 10 years. It has also been to Africa and back since last sighted. I was using my .300 Win. Short Mag. Model 70 New Haven built Winchester. I have a special way I mount the scope mounts and the scope stays put. Of course the barrel is bedded in the composite stock. Then I bed the scope mounts to the barrel with epoxy and glass beads mixed in and then lap the scope rings in alignment. So there is zero distortion of the scope when mounted and mounts never move.
    I seem to recall the rifle being zero at 300 yards so the impact at this 100 yard shot was low through the brisket. It ran so I left the work room and walked so I could see where it ran. Spotted it down near creek and leaned on tree and took another shot and it went down. I had to roll it about 1/4 mile back to shop so was tired. I am headed down to hand, gut and skin. Scope got me I was too close. I do not shoot much anymore so was too close.
    So on the 30th. is doe day and I can take three in one day so will be donating to homeless shelter for food. Way too many deer here. My neighbor showed me his latest visit by bear on Tuesday. I never see it. Tears his bird feeders down.

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  3. They have been making tap extractors for years. They had them when I started in tool & die in the 1960's but usually do not work. If tap stuck enough to break tap they usually do not come out with the extractor. His was home made the factory made have spring steel pins. We usually put in EDM and burned them out Russia invented the EDM in the 1920's way before the U.S. had a clue. The U.S. could not figure out how Russia was putting such small dia. holes in rocket engine parts because all the drills we had that small would not drill the exotic materials. They were actually burning the holes with EDM and figured out they could run through a spiral guide and do a curved hole which made their rocket engines much more powerful.
    Good tap extractor they should still be available. I hate 4 flute taps also I use 2 flute plug only.

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  4. I could use the grill but do not need the stainless or the running horse emblem. So you could sell those separate. Daniel Carpenter does repo the grill from original Ford tooling. I am not doing a concourse build so no real need to have original if someone needs for a concourse of course let them have.
    Price is always buyer drive so I have no idea.

  5. I do not wash my cars with running water ever. I do not use and soap so the wax stays on. I use clean water and micro fiber towels and just wipe the car down. Has never been buffed and has been waxed 2 times in 38 years. You do not need to if you do not use soap. I wipe the interior with light amount of lysol in water not much. I then wipe with dry towels and apply Lexol leather preserver. NEVER NEVER use Armorall. It will turn the material milky over time and you can never paint things like dash and console due to silicone in it. I have used the same paste wax for 60 years. Collinite Double Coat Wax, you can find at auto parts store or on Amazon. It is of course a paste Carnuba wax. I think all of the so called Ceramic coatings are Snake Oil for sure. This is how my car looks today. I also use a leather preserver and Kiwi shoe polish on my vinyl roof that is original. On carpet I use the Blue Coral upholstery cleaner. If you have fuzzy carpet you can take a propane torch and light and wave across and melt the fuzz off. The good tire cleaner is gone. Westalls Bleach White was bought and changed formula. I had a 1/2 gallon container of the original and something fell on it and lost it all last week. Some links.
    https://www.collinite.com/product/no-476s-super-doublecoat/
    http://www.lexol.com/
    I think people wash their cars way too much, makes them feel like they are going something. I wears the paint out and feeds the rust in all the cracks and hidden places, THINK ABOUT IT.

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  6. If you pull you heater box I am sure you know the dash needs to move out of the way with AC. Take seats out and console if you have. There are only like 8 fasteners not really that bad to pull dash back. Got to WCCC West Coast Cougar Classics they have video on heater box rebuild. You will need a foam kit and I add a piece of 1/4 mesh wire between the cowl and the heart box to keep the critters out. Nobody can see and it works. I also put the mesh on the back side of the plastic cowl vent grill use small zip ties to hold. Then I cut a small piece of stainless steel pot scrubber pad in the cowl vent drains so they cannot put nest inside the cowl. Bad pic of the mesh on the heater box.
    Also when you take the doors apart inside the heater box support around the shafts so you do not break the box. Also the drain hose will break the connection easily. I have a long 3/16" drill bit I run in the groves in the doors for the wire forms makes them go back in easier. Might want to replace the blower motor also. I did not and just after back in the motor started to squeal.
    If your heater box does not look good wash with lacquer thinner and spray with satin clear will look like new. If it has been painted remove the paint first.
    You might want to take the condenser and evaporator to AC shop and get it flushed. If you have not changed out the O-rings to new good time to do that. Also new schrade valves at the service ports. I use Duracool much better than R134 or R-12 and you can order online.

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  7. It does not hurt to measure and write the numbers down just in case. Also remember the new panel will probably be made for a 73 with the bumper filler mounting holes that will need to be filled in. The one hole for the wire to tag light needs to stay.
    I had to do lots of tweaking when I replaced the filler from convertible top to trunk. Had to mount the trunk and screw the new panel in place and keep tweaking to keep trunk from hitting the filler as it opened.

  8. When I was at Dr. this week he did blood test to check vitamin D3 levels. That is a key flag to those that do not do well with the virus is low D levels. Mine was 1/4 of what is should be so he has me taking 5,000 units twice daily and test again in 8 weeks. With all the statistics they are running on those that get the virus and do well and those that do good they are finding some key areas to monitor. For some reason blacks have lower levels on D on average and they feel that is one key reason they are hit harder.
    I stayed at home watched the deer some and did not visit anyone.  I am good for a while on staples just need bread and milk but did get some powdered milk and I have a bread maker so might stop that. Then I am down to whiskey, lol, do I build a still?

     

  9. I sat beside the car today for several hours watching for deer out the window. First day of rifle season. I did pass on one 4 point at about 5:00 this afternoon. Will see what shows up tomorrow.
    While there I think I have made the decision to replace the drivers door. Been struggling to get it right. Evidently it had been hit. I have never got to the bottom of the filler with 90% of the door fitting and spotted in. The bottom back corner is out by about 1/4" but when i put long straight edge on it looks good but I cut a template from my original car it is way off. All twisted and out of whack.
    Does anyone have a good solid drivers door I do not need any of the guts or the hinges just the door. Will have to send to dip strip so sooner I can get the better.
    If you have something I am in western N.C. 28791 send PM with pics, location and price. Cheers.

  10. I think the sticker was over $3,000 but do not remember what I paid for it. Financed for one year. See you do that now. My dad bought a 70 maverick that was under $2,000 with AC. Not much else on it. When I worked in the race shop I did a free valve job for him ran forever way over 200,000 miles.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  11. Since this started I ended up buying a Grande. Pretty well optioned. It was headed to crusher the next week if he did not sell it. His dad wanted it gone. Arizona car totally rust free. Does not need cowl, floors, tail light panel not even battery box is rusty. I was laughed at when I said how many thousands of dollars it would save and years it would save in a build. So what I am going to do is cut it up and make a track days car out of it. Will get the 2" Kar Kraft nose drop and all of their planned changes for Trans Am. I will take to frame shop and have put to zero and have already been in touch with Carolina Chem Strip to dip strip to remove all paint, sealer and surface rust. Have ask them if I can do video but they say no due to proprietary processes. They will allow some photos so all can learn. Will have 351 C with dry sump oil system built by one of the old NASAR engine builders that did them in the day. Hope to start early spring. Car has lots of great options that will probably go up for sale. Do not need in a track days car. Will be building my own sub frame connectors and roll cage to pass SCCA inspection.
    I think this car was used for the owners company car stayed at dealership long time. Not how long it took to get the options together before the build. Thinking of doing the Gulf Oil paint scheme since blue already.

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  12. On my comment about phosphate. When cars are built at the factory part of the wash process is to on into Iron phosphate. It etches the surface and makes the paint stick better. You can do the same at home with hand spray on and rub with scotch brite or steel wool. What I am using right I got from POR but your paint supplier should know what you need. Follow their instructions makes the paint adhere much better. Here is a link to information on the material. Brand is not so important. When they dip strip a car they iron phosphate it and it can sit months and not rust. I have stripped panels in garage that have been there for years with no paint and no rust. Best to do the process and then epoxy prime. https://www.bonderite.com/en/technologies/pretreatment/iron-phosphating.html

     

  13. For sure they were not perfect from factory. You would not believe how bad my original is. They had about two minutes to align a fender to a door on the line. You can improve for sure but will never be perfect. The tooling back then was cut on tracers mill not CNC. They were just getting into CNC then usually had a punch tape.

     

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