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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. It is always great to put stuff back on instead of off. Put the boy on swing in shop and let him watch, lol.
  2. On the slop grey parts I get the paint from NPD and matches what was on my 73. We all know that the shade will vary from car to car due to left over paints being mixed. My rear bumper brackets were not slop gray but satin black dipped had runs. This is my list of parts that have Slop Gray. Shock tower braces. Center vertical grill support that holds the hood latch. The two brackets that hold the grill to the radiator support going to headlight buckets. The square tray under the headlight buckets. The small braces that go from the bottom of the radiator support and connect to the lower valance and front fender on each side. The covers for the front coil springs under the front fenders. Front license plate bracket. Some service parts came with satin black instead of slop gray after end of production so they vary from production line parts. Satin Black parts in grill are the headlight bucket assemblies. Springs and screws are Manganese Phosphate. Parts that I have found with the Manganese Phosphate or Parkerizing as follows. You can find the chemicals and process on line. GM used Zinc Phosphate which is different. Hood hinges. Upper caps on the shock towers. Hood latch assembly. Parking brake assembly with some satin black on part of the foot pedal. The gas pedal bracket. Ford used the Manganese Phosphate on parts they had concerns with sticking due to paint. It is also a natural lubricant and does prevent rust to some extent. The gray rough looking coating on a new cam is Manganese Phosphate to aid in lubing the cam for break in. You can buy it online but sort of pricey. A local plating shop can do parts for you. You clean all the grease and lube off the parts with oven cleaner. Then glass bead and wash with lacquer thinner and then go into the Manganese Phosphate until desired finish is done. They you dry and spray with WD-40 repeatedly. If you lube the hinges too much the hood will probably not stay up even with the flat springs. If hood hinges are sloppy you can have someone hold the hinge with the rivets on an anvil or vice and place a ball peen hammer on the center of the staked end of the rivet. Hit it with a big hammer and this will swell out the rivet and tighten them back up. Don't go too far or will be too tight. Quite a few bolts on the cars have this finish and the Osborne reproduced Ford Assembly Instructions lists all of the finishes used so a great reference they are reprints of the Ford originals. Couple pics but not much detail this is unrestored car all original finishes. Having the correct and varying finishes on the car really makes it look better. When everything is rattle can black does not look as good.
  3. I will have to look tomorrow I have both and thought they were same. 71 - 72 has the black out added all bright on 73. I just refinished a set and just bought a metal panel for the vert and it came with trim also.
  4. I have a good passenger side I think will have to look close at it so see if repaired. In a crashed car I bought.
  5. Great that this shop is doing some work. Glad you are keeping it going will be great legacy for sure.
  6. Too late now but I did a how to on them, is on the site but can never find anything now. The aluminum has some holes and the lens had pins that went in the hole and melted them over. There was also some mastic between them. Here is what I have done in the past. Got the masking down to 20 min. for the black paint. BTW I got these from Daniel Carpenter direct they were defects because the aluminum was loose they were $50.00 for trim and lens made from Ford tooling. Use his gaskets do not use the Ford they are junk his are much better. Tail_Light_Black.docx
  7. Are you talking in the drop off or on the floor trunk. In the drop off it is an odd shaped plug with a built in drain if I recall correct.
  8. At least our prices are still cheap. A friend with Pontiac GTO paid $4,000 for one quarter panel.
  9. Damn wish I had functioning brain cells left, lol. You guys must be like my son. He writes the programs that BMW uses to track product issues world wide. He barely go out of high school but somehow knows computers. I can type really good but that is it, lol.
  10. I have an original never painted 1972 Mach 1 and it has the tape stripe and not the aluminum trim. I think the aluminum trim only came on 1971 cars without the strip just said Mach 1 on fender. Decor Group and Mach 1 in 72 got the tape down there. Here are a couple pics of the car I can measure tomorrow. This car is also a T-5 verified with a Marti Report but also says Mustang on the fender. There were two ways to order a T-5 in Germany. If going to a German owner got T-5 badging and KPH speedo. If a soldier ordered and was bringing home got Mustang badging and MPH speedo.
  11. While you have the door off will be a great time to take the guts out clean and add new grease. It is just bolts and screws. Now when you put the rebuilt hinges back on the door is not magically going to work like new. At the factory they had a huge hydraulic machine that bent the door so fit the quarter panel and rocker box. Then the front fender was adjusted to the door. By bending I mean the surface that the hinge bolts to on the door can actually be bent or bowed to the front to give less gap at the quarter or pushed in to make more gap at the quarter. I use strips of cardboard under the door to get it sitting parallel to the rocker box. You can put a floor jack under the door to bend up and lay on it to bend down. It is not just put the bolts in and it line up. I run a tap in the tapping plates in the A pillar and yes they do sometimes fall down inside the A post and then you have to get in there and put them back. I probably have a latch pin for the door post that is better than your worn one also. Your car appears to be a Sportsroof with the rocker moldings and the protection package that was not available on Mach 1. What is your VIN#? You could get Mach 1 sports interior on the sportsroof.
  12. I am fortunate that I live pretty close to Carolina Chem Strip. They do cars all the time and they did one I was hoping to be finished with and crushed a disc. I also have a friend that has been restoring cars for 36 years now. He has never advertised and does not have a web site does not need one has a waiting list always. He also uses Carolina Chem Strip. The first place you go with any ground up restore is a frame shop to have what is left of the chassis put back as close to zero as possible. What ever shop you use has to have a chassis JIG or they do not know what they are doing. For a car as rusty as that one there will be at least 2,000 hours of labor plus all the materials and parts. There is a shop near Atlanta that does only panel replacement and no body work. One of our members, that I will not call his name, had them do the panel replacement on his car which was inner fenders, cowl, floors, some frame, trunk, quarters, wheel houses pretty much the whole chassis. The car then went to a body shop that worked the metal fit the gaps and painted it. This car won best of show with over 1,000 mustangs entered this year. So that speaks highly of their work and they are not expensive either. They are Grave Robbers and I will have to get a link to their site. https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/index.php/custom-frame-jigs You take a bare dipped chassis to them to work from. Now back to dipping,they use a combination of ovens and dipping to remove all paint, sealer and of course rust. After it is all clean they wash and then do phosphate coating that will prevent rust in a shop for months while panel work is done. The car that I have has been sitting over 10 years now with just epoxy primer on if for now and no issues. You will not get bleeding from seams like some say the dipping does. Your car has pop open gas but 73 side stripes. A 73 will not have red oxide primer but will be gray and not slop gray but gray epoxy primer. All 71 and some 72 will have red oxide you need to find original paint and primer to know for sure. The cost to dip was around $2,100 but has probably gone up like everything else. What is left will be filled with pin holes but most of the car will require replacement for sure. Here is link to Carolina Chem Strip. https://chem-strip.com/portfolio/ Someone said something about insulation in the hood on these cars. There is no insulation inside the hood. There is dabs of seam sealer between the inner and outer hood to keep it from vibrating. E-coat was also mentioned but E-coat will not get between the inner and outer hood stampings. There is not enough flow of material to get a coating inside. The tank is not all paint but about 80% water with 20% paint in suspension and the electrical charge pulls the paint out of the water onto the metal. I would expect the restoration to cost well over $100,000 probably $150,000 for a true Concourse Restoration. It will take a minimum of a year and the painter will need to let the primed and body worked car sit for couple months to allow the primer and bondo to shrink before final blocking. Now please remember that Grave Robbers is not a body shop. Any bare metal will get epoxy primer but no body work will be done. I know you say the car is sentimental to your family but you are going to end up with a mustang made in Taiwan. You would be way farther ahead to find a rust free California or desert car and move the VIN# and drive train. You are legally not allowed to do that but some people do. Would be better than repo sheet metal. I was an automotive product, process and tooling engineer for over 25 years so I know metal. The repo metal is much softer to all it to form easier so if you lean on a quarter panel you will probably put a big dent in it. I picked up a totally rust free 1973 Grande from Arizona that will go to dip strip and then make a track days car. It was only $1,000 and was loaded with great options. Not even the battery box is rusty. My friend with the restoration shop had done a camaro that all that remained from original car was the windshield frame, A posts and the part of the cowl with the VIN#. Every other piece was changed out. AMD in Atlanta did panel replacement and he did body work, paint and assembly. Like me he has bad back so is stepping away from builds like that and going to lighter easier work. So it might cost you some shipping to get the body to Carolina Chem Strip and then to Grave Robbers but you will save tens of thousands of dollars. You can probably get a little saving on the dip if you do only pieces you will be using and not pieces that will be tossed. If you find all the parts you will save a 15% mark up by the shop usually. Grave Robbers buys so many panels they get them cheaper also. Some of the parts are not made so will have to be rebuilt. Not for the faint of heart.
  13. The front spoilers we hare are spoilers to redirect air and produce some down force. Some say they do nothing but put your hand out the window at 120 and see how much force there is on one and then multiply that 50 times. For the splitter to work it has to be very close to the ground. It is to keep so much air flow from going under the car and direct it to each side or to brake ducts to cool. If going to a brake duct the highest pressure is near the center of the car and even today they still use the NASA designed intake area for brake ducts. Using the cardboard and foam does work pretty good and you can also go to a taxidermy supply and get the clay they use. Same as what they use in the Ford design centers. Easy to shape and change shape and once it dries has some body to it. My current gal friend worked at Ford Prototype Engineering for years will ask her where to get the clay they use. We did a stream liner Bonneville car at the local Technical College a few years back. The nose of the car was really long. I was given the part of sculpting the foam and then laying up the fiberglass. I hate that crap even with hazmat suit and tapped rubber gloves you itch forever. It took lots of bondo to make it smooth. The clay will yield you the best surface to pull a fiberglass from or even make your own mold. Once you have a mold find someone that has a fiberglass chopper sprayer and they can spray the gel coat and then the chopped glass and maybe figure out where your mounting brackets will be and mold / cast them into the splitter. Check out boat shops that do repairs. Don't go crazy on the brackets in the splitter just something that you can bolt up to and figure out the brackets later. Have to have good locations for sure with a way to hook to chassis. When we raced Karts the front nose was always getting busted. So we cast or glassed in a piece of 1/2" conduit bent to fit in the nose. Did not break anymore but crushed some others. Even in the lawn mower business we used clay inside the mower decks. We had a glass table that mower would sit on and a smoke generator so we could watch the air flow. Would add clay to change shape and once we had it working they laser scanned. John Deere even copied our mower deck because it worked so good. You will not have a wind tunnel but you can tape pieces of yarn to your prototype and drive down the road and have someone take photos or video the yard follows the air flow. They did that years ago on the drag strip and tracks when they did not have big money for the wind tunnel testing. You can actually use a model of our cars and do some really quick designs just to see if eye appealing or not. My son did a science fair exhibit using an electronic scale and made modifications to car models and you could measure increase or decrease in down force with the model car and the scale. He used electric leaf blower for wind source. You have to think outside the box and it will just happen. I need to find some pictures of the Bonneville car we built. After they ran it the school required it be cut up so nobody could ever run it again. On about the third pass on the short course he hit a wet spot in salt and spun. If anything goes wrong on the short course you cannot run any more. Pissed off the Tech School bosses. Probably thousands of hours put into it. I think half of the body split down the middle hangs on the shop wall. It was front wheel drive rear steer like most of the faster cars.
  14. I believe the spoiler is ABS plastic so regular lacquer paint works. Wash really good with Dawn then lacquer thinner and just lightly hit with a scotch brite. I get the correct Argent paint from NPD myself. I do not have a picture of the can or # handy. It is the SEM paint not dye. The pic is of a before and after of a 73 parking light I did also plastic.
  15. The 71 and 72 were bolted on but riveted on 73. BTW you can get the glass out without removing them I just took a set of Power Windows out of the doors on a 72 Mach 1 the other day. There is wide place in the door for them to come out through. Good time to clean all the window hardware and apply Lucas Oil Red N Tack #2 grease and you will be amazed at how better they work.
  16. I did some rub offs for a member then he contacted GE about changing their MACH1 lettering and they said no they would not and did not care if right or wrong they sold. Same with their hood stencil not right but will not change. That sucks in my opinion. Costs no more to do it right but they have zero desire to do it right. We had a big bed stencil cutter at the lawn mower plant I worked in to do prototype stripes with. Would have easily done any stripe on a Mustang. There was one at Goodwill last year I wish I had bought it. It is so easy to laser scan a stripe or lettering and reverse engineer it. For sure not rocket science and will be within a few thousands of an inch. The original stripe kits were just over $25.00 when Ford had them for a full set. I bought 25 sets for my 20th. Anniversary Mustang they were like $22.00 a set. I sell on Ebay for $100. After the scan and program there is no skill involved in peeling off the unwanted part of the stripe or letter. I hope you get a better set that some of the members have gotten in the past.
  17. I have couple down in N.C. but shipping would be horrible and packing also. I think there is only one set of tooling for the NASA hood owned by Dynacorn. Drake makes pretty much nothing just puts stickers on. It is common for the arch to be high crowned and probably done that way on purpose. Chevy, Pontiac and others are the same. They do not spot weld the inner and outer panels together down the length like OEM. That is to allow you to change the arch. The way my friend does in his restoration shop is to put 4 equal height wood blocks on the four corners on the floor. You then cut a gauge block to limit the amount you can flex in the middle. Say cut the center limiting block 1/4" shorter. Place the block under the hood and actually stand on it. Measure the change and cut the block shorter and shorter until you have reduced the curve where you want. Do the other side. Put on car and check. If good then you tack weld the hem in a few places to keep the inner and outer in same place then seal the seam. You should also remove the black E-coat from any panel Ford or repo. Raw steel panels can rust in one day sitting around and it they do not have great phosphate pre treatment there will be light rust under the paint. The pic is an original Ford trunk lid that still had the Ford OK stamp on it from inspection. When I stripped it there was rust everywhere under the factory paint. If you were to find a NOS Ford hood it will have been hauled, loaded and unloaded going to swap meets and will be beat to H and back. Probably worse than repo. I was talking with an AMD rep at Carlisle this year and they are doing some Ford panels now I think falcon and fairlane since Mustang has lots of tooling done. He had panels there that were marked up to send back to Taiwan to make changes. The do mainly GM and Mopar now. This is the trunk lid I was talking about that has been indoors for 25 + years. You can see the paint inspection stamp on the end of the trunk but look at all the rust that was under the factory paint. A soak in molasses and phosphate will remove that the epoxy prime. I had to quit working on the car due to disc in neck. Lifting and sanding will put me in bed quick.
  18. Daniel Carpenter obtained the original Ford tooling for some of the 71 - 73 mustang grills but not sure which ones. They were shipped to Taiwan to run the parts. I think they polished the cavity side of the mold which is what shows in the front. The surface finish it smoother on the repo grills. You can blast the surface with walnut shells or a mix of walnut shells and glass beads to get similar finish to the original 73 grill. They were never painted and would be a PIA to spray the honey comb and have it come out even. I do not know why the member recommended you get new stainless. I polish mine myself and looks better than new. NPD also sells the nylon clips for the trim and I had zero issues when I put mine back together. Another note on the finish on the grill. If you notice all of the ejector pins have been cut short and act as pullers to get the molded part out of the cavity. Old mold makers trick but the parts look crappy with all the round pieces sticking out the back side. Couple pictures of some of the molds that Daniel's dad Dennis got from Ford that are original The hood ornament is 1951 and the tool still looks brand new. 1951 tail light and maybe 1954 tail light on the bottom shelf.
  19. Now with all the filler and primer on the body should set for several months to let everything shrink up. Then high light and block again to have a perfect job at the end. BTW there use to be a fantastic restoration shop in South Dakota that charged way less than shops in big cities. Seems like it was in Mitchel S.D..I was by it several times when going west. You need to keep everyone's hands off of the primer also a cheap car cover is good investment. People have lots of bad things on their hands that paint does not like.
  20. The Mexican Shelby was a failure like all of the Shelby ventures. Henry Ford II got fed up with him after the 1966 year and pulled everything into Ford. Since Shelby had signed over the use of his name and it sold cars Ford kept and keeps on using it. How someone that failed at multiple car ventures with several companies got such a reputation I have no idea. I would like to have a rear spoiler and real slats from the Mexican Shelby to go on my track days car. They were also coupes.
  21. Welcome from North Carolina. Now bring the car back too many are leaving here, lol. I was at a show last Friday and had a guy from Virginia want to buy my 73 vert. I told him I had turned down $21,000 and just said well how much will it take, lol. I do not really want to sell the only one I have on the road right now. Here is mine I am original owner I ordered new. Was driving into the Mustang Owner's Museum. This was first time it had ran in 38 years and was not torn down. Preview video-1555166327 (3).mp4
  22. Welcome from the opposite end of North Carolina. I am in Hendersonville, NC. I have some of all of them, two Mach 1's, Grande, and several convertibles. I am one a few original owners on here.
  23. Here is picture of my safety wire on an original. They were not wound that neatly or tight. Just a wire and twisted a couple times.
  24. You probably do not want to put too much faith in the factory gauge. If you could actually hook up a gauge to the oil system so you can see a real pressure would be better. Your idle speed should be fine. My factory gauges go up and down and seem to be different every time I drive. What oil are you running? Maybe go to a 10 W 50 or if you are at 10 W 30 go to 10 W 40. If you pull the valve cover how does the oiling look come to rockers?
  25. I do have the 72, Q, Mach 1, T-5 with side stripes that are original. I do not have any great pictures of it. For sure you should center the hood black they were just throwing them on at the factory. This car got crashed in the early 70's with 32,000 miles on it. Has never been worth the efforts to fix it so many in better shape. The stripes just go away after years in the weather.
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