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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. Welcome to the group. Looks like we have another vinyl roof car. Tell us more about your great looking ride. David
  2. That sucks for sure. I had been watching the power window parts for a couple months. I had sent a couple questions from the ebay site to them asking about missing parts but they would never reply to me. I did not see the relay in the stuff either and I had asked about the inside back panels if they still had them. They actually had a video of them testing the window motors on there for a while and they said that two switches were bad. I asked several times about things and no answer so I gave up. I would be glad to write an email to them if you do not resolve the issue. I just had a bad situation with transport of a car from Nevada. The car got here ahead of time but they damaged the rear bumper. I plan on writing up a detail report and post here of the BS they explained on why they would not pay. Had pictures before ship and as it came off truck. It is long story but I will let all know who the carrier was and how they did not do what was in contract. We can a support each other here and we should bomb them with emails if you are not done right. As far as ebay I was ripped off for one item in the past, paid and never got anything and ebay did nothing.... It was like 9 $90.00 that buys a lot of Seagram's. On the credit card I use American Express and they will do something later on. I had rented a phone in Africa and had the contract with agreed price and paid when phone turned in. Then they hit my card with an extra charge after I was home. American Express actually took the entire charge off my car not jus the dispute. As a group we can do something I am sure. Never give in, David
  3. Hey a friend of mine paid $8,000 for one OEM quarter panel for 65 GTO. They don't make repo. The rich have ruined our hobby, lol. David
  4. I am just a little puzzled as to why you would want to paint them. It is just as difficult or more so to get the taped off mask straight as the tape stripes and like mentioned if you follow the directions that come with the stripes the soapy water allows you to move it around. If something happens later and you have to paint a panel trying to match the paint and the painted stripes would be a real pain. I have used half sets of stripes for front end damaged cars and you could not see the difference. If I were looking at purchasing a car and the stripes were painted I would not even consider it since it would require a full paint job to correct. I guess it is each to his own. I have never understood why some paint the hood black out shiny defeats the purpose of killing the glare. The tape kits are cheap and you can remove with heat gun if you decide you do not like it. Paint is expensive and difficult to reverse. David
  5. Do you know the first Ford to have a vinyl roof? Was it the 1950 Crestliner? I am thinking it was but not 100% my uncle Charlie had a yellow one with black accents and a black vinyl roof. In the beginning all Fords had a vinyl insert in the roof that was supported by chicken wire. You got a tool set that was in a pouch made from the same material. In the early days of auto production they did not have power presses large enough to press the roof panels so they had small pieces around the outside with the vinyl insert. The first presses were actually large screws that were turned by hand to form the metal. Ford was a leader in taking the auto to an all steel body investing in the large presses. Chevy had invested in large timber tracks and had to use them up before going to all steel. It was easier to fix rot on those old cars you just whittle another part out. Not too good in a crash. The switch to all steel by Ford is the reason you see so many more Fords in the 30's than Chevy. The Chevys simply rotted and people did not fix them. David
  6. I am sure there could have been a change but mine was made late in May of 73. There is no way I could have peeled the stripe off painted it and put the stripe back on. I can take pictures of the marker light in back to show it has never been off. The frame on the light was factory black also. I have been at assembly plants and things get missed or left off but even if they did not paint under the stripe black the frame should have been. Maybe we should look at VIN#s and see if we can find a break point. The low mileage one on ebay was also black. Another mystery to study! Went looking at 73 brochure and there are pictures of two with blacked out side lights. The small picture in the corner looks like color but cannot tell for sure. I am 100% sure that mine and other were black. My car was shown one time in an MCA national show in unrestored and they did not say anything about the lights being incorrect but said lots of fasteners were and the car had never been apart. That is the reason it go put in a barn in 1983 I do not do politics, lol. David David, I'm not doubting you Mine is an early car Don't go by what you seen in the sales lit as 100% correct I as thinking could it have been an assembly line thing? My car was made in Dearborn where was yours made? Could it have been color specific? When you google 1973 mustang mach 1 and look at the pictures some have it and some do not. I think I only saw one of the silver stripe ones that had silver light frame and painted under. It will be another one of those things that will never find a reason unless someone has the work instructions from the assembly plants. When the QS and ISO certifications started years ago most of that info got trashed to clean up the systems. Be neat if we could locate one of those inspectors that put the yellow stamps all over the car maybe they could shed some light. David
  7. I would only ask are you the original owner since I ordered this car and have been the only owner. It has been sitting in the barn since. 1983 and is a 12,000 mile car. It was painted around the front marker lights before the stripe was applied and the frame around the light is also black. The car is 5H paint code. This Mach 1 for sale on ebay right now has 2,000 original miles and is the same also. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-Mach-1-Original-Unrestored-Survivor-Mach-1-w-only-2-000-miles-Yellow-Black-2-owner-/161621743145?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25a1681629&item=161621743145&pt=US_Cars_Trucks They also painted the area between the honeycomb panel and the tail lights in the rear with flat black before assembly. I attached pics of my car and my tail light and the yellow car is on ebay now for $50,000 I think. The paint is peeling on mine and bare in mind this car has not been washed in 32 years. If you wash a car I as sure it would have came off by now but the black should have been on the light frame. David Well. I'm the second owner of this car I know John is the original owner of his car I have had 25 or more 73 mach 1's - never saw any blacked out This side marker light black out debate has been going on for a long time. I have no info on a date or change of the black out details. I assume it was done both ways or changed at some point As for the tail light panel that has been blacked out on all cars with the honey comb or the metal trim panel I am sure there could have been a change but mine was made late in May of 73. There is no way I could have peeled the stripe off painted it and put the stripe back on. I can take pictures of the marker light in back to show it has never been off. The frame on the light was factory black also. I have been at assembly plants and things get missed or left off but even if they did not paint under the stripe black the frame should have been. Maybe we should look at VIN#s and see if we can find a break point. The low mileage one on ebay was also black. Another mystery to study! Went looking at 73 brochure and there are pictures of two with blacked out side lights. The small picture in the corner looks like color but cannot tell for sure. I am 100% sure that mine and other were black. My car was shown one time in an MCA national show in unrestored and they did not say anything about the lights being incorrect but said lots of fasteners were and the car had never been apart. That is the reason it go put in a barn in 1983 I do not do politics, lol. David
  8. I cannot but I am sure someone here can. Are you sure it is a 460? Did not come in mustang but other big ford cars for sure and trucks. I think they cast the C.I. number in the left front of the block and sometimes they did not change the number and it will say 460 and will be 429. The picture is a 429 marked 460. This happened a lot have 289 engines that say 302 in the casting. This link goes to a site that has the best info for Ford part numbers I have found. http://mustangtek.com/block/Block.html Put up a post on your questions on the headers I am sure some member can help. David
  9. This is a no no for sure. The unibody construction flexes for sure and with rust eating away in critical areas it gets even weaker. I never start to work on a car without taking it to a frame shop and having it adjusted. Every car will need pulling in some way. I have attached a scan of the Volume 4 body Ford manual that has the dimensions to the "Tooling Holes" and there is one called the M.C.H. Master Control Hole that is what everything on the car is checked from. When the body is welded in the factory they used these holes to align the panels in the weld fixtures. Yes you can align the front wheels even with a twisted frame and the car will drive ok. But you might have fenders, hoods, doors, trunks and convertible tops that do not align properly. You can jack one of these cars up incorrectly and bend the body. Windshields have been know to crack when jacking up the car incorrectly. A frame shop with new equipment will use lasers to verify and correct the dimensions. If they have the old they will hang gages and measure the dimensions. Do it right and you will have no regrets don't and you might have more issues down the road. I cannot get the file to load it is a scan I might have to do a photo will do tomorrow. David David, That's interesting documentation you posted here, not sure easy to find. Just for my information, those drawings are still good for my '73 Grandé? (In case I need for the future). Thanks, Manu Yes the drawings work for any 73. You can buy copies of the Ford Car Shop Manuals off eBay. They give every detail about how to work on your car and have all the specifications for everything in them. There are some differences between 71, 72, 73 so you need the manuals for your year model. You can get them on DVD I think. I have a set for 72 and 73 the two years I own. The manuals do not just cover Mustang but all models of Ford for that year. 76 degrees yesterday and snow maybe today??? 62 now 21 tonight??? David
  10. Hey man, I own every car I ever owned except for GM products. They were all lemons, 1950 Chevy fastback, 1972 Nova SS, 1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The Fords never let me down and you could not keep the GM going, lol. Anyone of you that has ever taken a Camaro down to the bones knows that the engineering is no where near what the mustang is. I am prejudiced for sure. David
  11. I don't think Mustangs rust... I KNOW Mustangs rust. ;) Here's a sample: Click on the link in my sig for the whole story. Yep that one is rusty. I have a friend that does restorations and he is working on a 69 Camaro SS RS that is not going back original. It is a convertible also. All that is left of the original car is the windshield frame the top of the dash where the VIN # is stamped. You have to have that or it has to be titled as a 2015 model. The hinge mounts in the A post were used and the partition behind the rear seat. Everything else on the car had to be replaced. It took forever to get the floor came direct from China. The customer will have over $150,000 in the car but that is what he wants. He could never sell it for even a third of that. It will have a 500 + CI crate motor and special hydro formed front frame rails and suspension. Remember only 4, 5/8" bolts hold on the entire front end of a Camaro. Good luck on your rebuild you must have guts for sure. David
  12. Good to have a new member looks like a pretty solid car. ::welcome:: David Ok why do you want the wheels, lol. They look like old American Racing cast wheels nothing special. Am it wrong? David
  13. Down in the south the first big outdoor show is at the Charlotte Speedway or Lowe's Speedway. Here is link. http://www.charlotte-autofair.com/ There will be 10,000 vendors so you won't see it in one day I think it is April 3, 4, 5 but I will be in Cuba looking at old cars and will miss it. They also have a fall meet. David
  14. Haven't seen any progress reports how is the rebuild going? David
  15. When I pulled the console out of the 72 mach 1 I have there was a cigarette melted into the carpet where someone in the assembly plant had put it and then someone put the console over it and nailed it down. David
  16. Not sure if they still do it but Ford use to allow you to watch your car being built on the line. Of course you could not years ago see it all because it did not take place in one continuous flow. I have some of the old forms you filled out for back in the 50's to go watch your car being built and drive it home. They had a name for it just cannot remember it. You still had to pay shipping because of the unions. The sign in the car on the line that says BOSS is a pretty common thing. I have been in plant for model year change and had to follow my parts through the assembly. They had special laser cut panels that they hung in the windshield opening for the vehicle I was watching. I also purchased a 1984 Mustang 20 th. anniversary. Of course my now gone for good wife crashed it. When I pulled the rubber nose off written in paint marker on the bumper reinforcement it said ANN. My son works at BMW and he is the last one on the line. He pulls the tracking device off the hood puts on the BMW emblem and pulls it into the test room. There he takes it to a minimum of 152 mph the first time the engine is started. He then drives outside. Oh by the way he says he will never buy a BMW that everyone that he sees has something wrong with it, lol. He has an F-150 and the 20th. ann mustang that I rebuilt the front end on twice because of the darn wife that could not drive. David
  17. Great story. If you think mustangs rust you should try to find a Camaro that is not falling apart and the parts are way more expensive and harder to find. Show us some pics. David
  18. Ok when I heard that Ford was going to make the major changes to the Mustang and all of their cars along with all the manufacturers I had to get one. I went to the local dealer in March of 73 and they had several on the lot but nothing loaded. I sat down with salesman on March 30, 1973 and filled out the order for my Mach 1. It was shipped from factory May 14, 1973 and arrived at the dealer May 24, 1973 and I still have it 12,000 miles with the 27 factory options and 7 dealer options and been in barns since 1983 sticker price $5,156.90. Hope to get it going again this year. Job and family took away all those years of playing with cars. I looked at Cougar and also Pantera but the Pantera cost double what the Mustang cost. David
  19. I will know soon. I put it in the gas of my Mach 1 when I parked it in 1983 and also mixed 50 / 50 with gas and poured down the carb while running to get everything oiled on valves and rings. I intend to see if the car will turn over this summer. If it does that will be a good experience. I think I also put some 2 stroke oil in the gas I poured in also. It has been around a long time for sure. David
  20. Are you saying that the light frame around the front marker light should have been black? If so that is not the case in all cars. Mine was not painted either, it is white in the attached pic. Could be differences irt where the car was produced. I debated this when I restored my car and kept it the same. I have an early 73 Q code mach 1 - red with black stripes - marker light bezel is red I would only ask are you the original owner since I ordered this car and have been the only owner. It has been sitting in the barn since. 1983 and is a 12,000 mile car. It was painted around the front marker lights before the stripe was applied and the frame around the light is also black. The car is 5H paint code. This Mach 1 for sale on ebay right now has 2,000 original miles and is the same also. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-Mach-1-Original-Unrestored-Survivor-Mach-1-w-only-2-000-miles-Yellow-Black-2-owner-/161621743145?forcerrptr=true&hash=item25a1681629&item=161621743145&pt=US_Cars_Trucks They also painted the area between the honeycomb panel and the tail lights in the rear with flat black before assembly. I attached pics of my car and my tail light and the yellow car is on ebay now for $50,000 I think. The paint is peeling on mine and bare in mind this car has not been washed in 32 years. If you wash a car I as sure it would have came off by now but the black should have been on the light frame. David
  21. Nothing to do with this but I have seen Toyota add a tiny foot long piece of metal to get the car to pass crash tests. They put it exactly where the crash is going to happen in the government testing. If you get hit a little either way of that band aid it will be bad. Little things make big differences in bodies. I also worked with BMW and they would add little band aid to cure crash test and durability issues. I am sure they all do. David
  22. They did not paint around the front side marker lights before applying the stipe and also the frame around the light should be flat black. I don't think the sprayed the black around the tail lights going to the honeycomb panel. This would maybe be the first 73 Mach down the line never know. David
  23. Check out this 1973 Mach 1 on eBay VIN# 3F05H100003. There is picture of window sticker and Marti. 16,899 miles. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-Cinnamon-1973-mustang-mach-1-fastback-351-v-8-mach-i-73-/351327287911?forcerrptr=true&hash=item51ccbcfa67&item=351327287911&pt=US_Cars_Trucks David
  24. Greetings, I hope you understand my English. What you are looking for is on eBay. Use this link to get to the listing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/71-72-73-Mustang-Cougar-Power-Rear-Windows-Pancake-Motor-1971-1972-1973-/111301001279?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ea0e803f&vxp=mtr The splash guards you are looking for that go under the fenders should be available from any of the Mustang vendors. I will also check eBay for you. David Greetings, I hope you understand my English. What you are looking for is on eBay. Use this link to get to the listing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/71-72-73-Mustang-Cougar-Power-Rear-Windows-Pancake-Motor-1971-1972-1973-/111301001279?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ea0e803f&vxp=mtr The splash guards you are looking for that go under the fenders should be available from any of the Mustang vendors. I will also check eBay for you. David Here is the link to a splash guard. You did not say which side but you should be able to find both on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1973-FORD-MUSTANG-RH-FRONT-FENDER-REAR-SPLASH-SHIELD-Guard-MACH1-FASTback-/221702007327?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item339e782a1f&vxp=mtr David
  25. I ordered a Mach 1 new in 73 and still have it. Q code with 4 speed, 3.25 gear. I broke the rear yoke 3 times in about 6 months when the car was new. The dealer was fixing under warranty but I said something had to be wrong that a Ford 9" should be better that that. This is a stock engine with the F-70 Goodyears 1/2 the HP your going for. They called in a Ford rep and as soon as he walked under the car on the lift he knew the problem. My car was made near the end of production and they put the rear and driveshaft in the car that would have been in yours with 302. They changed everything and never broke another one in the 12,000 miles on the car. David
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