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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. Ordered my tilt column for 73 and arranged trucking for my 73 vert to come from Reno to N.C.. What a pain have been trying to get here since before Christmas. They all say they can and they do not do anything. David
  2. Hello, I am an original owner or a Mach 1 and I ordered it. That was not an option on Mach 1. My car has 27 factory in stalled options and then I had dealer order the door edge guards, locking spare tire, rear carpeted floor mats to match the factory installed fronts, front spoiler and you could not order a ram air so I ordered on an put on. A mechanical dual point distributor and undercoating. The Q engine for 73 did not get sent through the government testing with ram air so they could not sell it from factory. I think the only thing I did not order was the engine block heater and thought about that. The option might have been available on a sports roof since the wheel opening trim was part of the "appearance protection package" that included the black out back panel, not honeycomb, the skinny side bump strips, door edge guards and I think the locking spare tire. I am not sure if it included the rocker moldings but probably did. I have the listing of what was available on each model buried somewhere in 40 + years of stuff. You could even have your car painted a non mustang color for I think $135.00 which I put in the first order and they called and said they could not match the rubber bumper and I would have to take a chrome one so I switched colors back to stock. So if you see a Mach 1 with a chrome bumper check deep it might be a one of a color car. David
  3. I am probably going down to look at it this week was going last week but he had business to take care of. I will take more pics of floor, wheelhouse and trunk work done. I have bought two in last month don't need another got to get the garage finished. David
  4. I just bought one but not here yet. I will keep you posted if I want to sell. I am almost 6'5" and it just makes it easier on me to have one. What you looking to pay? This one has everything from rag joint to ignition key and turn signal works. Has the firewall clamp and dash mounts. Thanks, David
  5. Hey, Just a note about what the hood is called NACA. I should be NASA, National Aeronautics & Space Administration. NASA did the wind tunnel development for the shape used for the air inlets to establish the optimum air intake. Ford use it on this hood and the 84 - 86 SVO. The instructor at our local Tech College Auto class is also a Bonneville racer. He runs a Mustang 2 body with a destroked GM engine that I think under 250 CI. He has joined the 200 mph class with it. He had been running one of the scoops like you see on the Pro Street and Pro drag cars up high that is said to pick up more air. He has a friend that works in the wind tunnel for Ford in Atlanta he suggested he use the NASA design and get rid of the tall hood scoop. So he built a new hood and made his ram air using the NASA design. He took both hoods on his next run to Bonneville. He made several runs with the old hood and got everything dialed in. Car has electronic fuel injection that you program using lap top. He comes in changes the hood and makes another pass. The NASA hood scoop pulled in so much more air he melted several pistons due to fuel mix being lean. The hood does work just for reference. I think they look mean, David
  6. Not the Marti but the original order and the dealer invoice. Have the window stickers also. I think this car was the most optioned one sold. It had I think 27 options that I added to the order for factory install and I also had the dealer order the rear floor mats, door edge guards, locking spare, ram air, front spoiler and the mechanical dual point distributor. The dealer also did the undercoat the day it came in. I has not be moved in 32 years neither washed or started, 12,000 miles one owner. Believe it or not I have never found the build sheet in the car but never had the carpet out either. Hope to clean it up soon building a new garage since I retired last year. I enjoy seeing all the big mustangs and I have a couple 65 models also.
  7. Thanks for all your input and info. I think I will pull the entire engine apart. I did pull the pan and it has forged pistons could not read what was on the top of the piston through the spark plug holes. It has been since back in the 60's the last time I worked in a shop doing engine work but know how the clearances should be. I do not know the overbore or how straight he got the cylinders. My old boss Roger Ingram use to make me hold .0001" on straightness and size just using a 1/2" drill doing it by hand. You could not hone much and you had to let it cool down. The rocker studs do bug me I can see them flexing and breaking with those triple springs. I do not see any signs of grinding on the rod ends like if was balanced and see no drill marks on the harmonic balancer or flex plate. So I suspect it was not balanced. I am going to see if a guy I use to go cart race with is still in business he does lots of NASCAR engines Ben Barnes in Asheville. I will tear it down and check everything and go from there probably have Ben replace the studs and I might dump the roller cam and triple springs don't need or want that is a car I drive on the street. I was going to see if I could look up the oil pump number maybe a Melling? Right now I have to keep my mind and energy going on my garage build so maybe by April May I can have a great place to work. Thanks again for your comments. I attached a couple pics with the pan off. David
  8. Hello, I do not know if you are still working on the engine or have it finished. The D2AE-CA as some have said is the casting number for all 4 bolt main blocks and some 2 bolt. The two blocks are identical the provisions are there for adding the outer bolts to make the two bolt a four bolt. You have to find a set of 4 bolt caps or buy steel ones and have a shop open up the recess for the caps and drill and tap the other holes. It will need align bored and honed. It looks like the date code is 1973, Nov. 27 so that would be right for your car. On the cracked head a good welding shop can weld up a crack that is on the outside of the head or in the chamber and it can be made as good as new. They have to do proper preheat use the correct rods and also do post weld heat. I have seen NASCAR engine blocks that had the main bearing webs brazed in that ran 500 mile races after being fixed. Drag racers drop valves and stick them in the combustion chamber and they fix them also. It depends on how valuable the head is or how easy you can find another one. Since you are in Grand Rapids the best welding shop for castings is located in Michigan, MPD Welding. They repair the crashed stamping dies that make the sheet metal for autos. I think they are in Detroit or Grand Rapids one or the other been there a couple times many years ago. Let us know more about your build. David
  9. Wow a wife that would agree to that is a keeper. I had one the kept me from buying shelbys before they were expensive. I think I see a 64 and a 56 club sedan there. Do you need a rear bumper for either? I have already plated 64 and I think I have a 56 with thru the bumper exhaust just a core. David
  10. Welcome to the club, I am also new just joined this year. Great looking car is the interior trim code "CW"? I just bought a 73 vert California car with CW interior and yellow exterior been waiting a month for delivery. I will need the interior panels also he put speakers in the one I have coming. David
  11. Hello, I too am looking for one but man are they expensive. You better be sure they have every piece from the firewall to wiring. I saw a NOS turn signal for tilt the other day I think it went on eBay for over $150.00. I have a 73 Mach 1 with tilt and leather wheel. I have not seen another leather wheel anywhere. It is like new. I just purchased a 73 vert and wanted to put one in it but think I will pass. I have found one for $750.00 that was missing a couple parts. I had ran an add in Atlanta and got a reply for someone there that restores Mustangs mainly Boss 351 and he had one. I will go look for his email and send to you. My Mach also has power windows and they are also expensive and you better get everything with them also. The glass is even different with power windows. Lots of little brackets and wire channels. Let me know what you find. Good luck, David Ok went back to old emails and the answer to me was through a cl post so I do not have his email but have asked for him to send. YOU DO KNOW THE ONLY YEAR THAT WORKS FOR YOU IS 73? 71 / 72 is different. I do not know exactly what is different but they say they are. The one he has is Ginger and he says it is tight. Will forward his info when I receive it. I attached a pic of the tilt and leather wheel in my Mach 1 sorry it is not clean has not been cleaned in 32 years sits in the barn. David
  12. Pretty new here but like to see all the "Big" Mustangs getting some attention. You sure cannot expect to fix one and sell for a profit if done right. I have taken a big step I have delayed for two divorces and helping take care of my parents. I am starting on my dream garage next week. I went to the permit office last Friday and started the ball rolling by paying my $60.00 for the "Environmental Inspection" to be done. No that is not to see if some near extinct animal or plant lives here they tell me it is to see if the new building will interfere with the current septic tank or drain field. My garage will be 80' X 50' with no supports in the floor, wide open space. It will host a 2 post lift and a couple of the lifts to stack the cars or park one under another. A rotisserie for rebuilds. A weld fixture for floor / frame repair. There will be the engine lift and several engine stands. Work benches and also a paint / sanding area with air dryer. You cannot have a real paint booth in your residential garage they are regulated by the EPA and have to be inspected and soil samples are taken and then testing is done over time and if you pollute you have to clean it up. So I plan on putting together a spread sheet and track all the costs so that all the members can see what it costs to build a nice work area and garage. I have opted for an all steel construction and will post later the plan of the garage. I am going to try to spend every cent I can so the kids won't have to worry about that. They will just have to go by my will and flip a coin to see who chooses the first car and take turns after that. My cars, new to old not including what I drive. 1985 SVO Mustang, 1984 20th. Ann. Mustang original owner, 1973 Mach 1 Q, 4 speed original owner 12,000 miles every option, 1973 Mustang convertible H code Auto California car, 1972 Mustang Convertible Q code Auto built engine, 1972 Mach 1 T-5 German Q, 4 speed, 1965 Mustang convertible, A 4 speed, 1965 Mustang convertible, C Auto, 1956 Ford Club Sedan second owner, 292 4V 3 spd. overdrive, 1950 Ford Custom Deluxe 2 dr. my first car with full built flathead in family since 1952, 1950 Ford Custom Deluxe 2 dr. with 16,000 original miles barn find, 1950 Ford Business coupe with 4.6 SOHC highway patrol drivetrain, 1950 Ford Deluxe 2 door sedan. I do not know if I will get the first one done but I will have somewhere to try. I will post updates to the garage and answer any questions I can on the process. The picture is the empty field with some flags for doing layout. David Jan. 26, 2015 Ok the environmental guy was here today and gave the ok to proceed with the garage hurray. Got to get serious with the building people now do any of you have any suggested suppliers? David
  13. Came back to see how this was going and some do get a little touchy and that is good. Passion makes the world a better place. Having been an automotive tooling engineer I have been involved from concept to SOP Start Of Production. I have worked with the Americans, Germans and Japanese. I mainly worked on Ford products for American, the two big German companies and a couple of the big Japanese companies. Of those companies I always felt that Ford did a better job on engineering. I personally was involved in the unibody structure of one of the German cars that I will not name specific. When the first off tool samples are available they do a build and those cars head to durability and crash testing. They failed in all areas. In frontal crashes the engine came up and into the cabin instead of down and under the floor. The seat belts tore out of the anchor points. During durability pulling a trailer of the 6,500 lbs. that would be advertised, the body stretched so much that the battery fell out of the rear. All of this took place after early prototype and computer simulations had said all was good. So you throw tooling away and they start adding Band-Aids to get the vehicle to pass all the required crashes. I also saw the Japanese scramble to add patches in places to make the car barely pass the required testing. We were headed to lunch with some of the Japanese engineers and were riding in a Ford vehicle. Someone on the Japanese team make a comment he liked the vehicle and the owner trying to be polite said that the comparable Japanese vehicle was nice and the Japanese engineer jumped in immediately and said " No this vehicle much stronger and more power". That sort of set us all back that he would make that comment about the company he worked for. I have seen the engineers move spot welds and try to take just one more out to save the $.03 that the weld cost them. Yes $.03 three cents is all they would pay for a spot weld you put into a sub assembly. Everyone will always have their opinions but please never take short cuts or leave out anything that needs to be fixed. When you are welding up sub assemblies in a plant you are required to do weld tear downs and check the weld nugget size for spot welds. MIG weld, very few now, also have to be torn apart. Weld nuts and studs at least have to pass a minimum push out test on a regular basis. This data has to be stored in case there is some kind of failure in the field later. Yes the attorneys will surely jump on the band wagon if there is something to sue about. Oh by the way my gal friend is an attorney. As far as the DIY guys it would be difficult to argue that no floor pan in a rusty Mustang would be better than one put in with questionably welds. Something is better than nothing. The 71 - 73 Mustang were some of the early vehicles with better seat belts and at lease some bumper design to improve crash. The only reason they did it was the government made them pass minimum standards. Just do a better job than you have to and all will be ok. Todays vehicles will be almost impossible to fix correctly with the exotic materials and processes. The insurance companies are scratching their heads on how to handle the new aluminum F-150. It will probably mean higher rates due to the cost to repair after a crash. More will get totaled for sure. Beautiful day in the mountains, David
  14. Nice car I think I saw your listing on eBay a month or so back. Keep them on the road. David
  15. So you have to do lots of work on these to run any length of time. The only two engines that can be balanced are the inline 6 and V-12. You can hide it and smooth it out with balance shafts in the V-6 but NASCAR gave up on getting one to last. David
  16. What are the numbers on the Q code 72 verts? Does anyone have that info? David
  17. Hey guys I think that Shelby did not call it a roll bar. That makes some liability if the car rolls and it does not hold it up. For it to do a good job it has to be braced to the front and back to prevent it bending. You should be able to find one made for Mustangs out there for the drag guys. When you go so fast you have to have them. Davie
  18. I ordered a 71 Maverick Grabber Green. You could only get the 250 6 cyl that year but the H.D. suspension gave you the same front end parts as V-8 Mustang and gave you 5 lug wheels and cost I think $10.00. Of course I ordered it. I put over 200,000 on a 70 Maverick 200 3 speed and I think 185,000 on the 71 before the auto trans started to do strange things. I still have the car sinking into the ground. It was barely over $3,000. They could make cars like that again but they just do not want to cost the same to build a Maverick as it did a Mustang so why make them. I was an automotive engineer for over 20 years so I know what they cost to build. David
  19. What you did to get a ride in the good old days. Do you still have the car? David
  20. I saw Don posted that he would propose changing the name of the thread to Mustang Stories From the Past. Which I think is a great idea. Here is another or you> THE BIRTH OF DRIFTING So I am reading in some of my Hot Rod or Car Craft magazines and I see where Ford is going to change the Mustang for 1974 so like many I go order my 73 Mach 1. The dealer said I was crazy to spend that much money for a Mustang that would never be worth anything when I could have an LTD for less money. In 1966 when I was going to Asheville Buncombe Tech School I started to run on the new I-26 interstate highway with my 1950 Ford Hot Rod before they opened it. I would go around the barriers and run the dirt road bed and finally they finished it. I soon found out that the clover leaf exchange was the place to have fun and we started to race laps around all four exchanges without getting off. I contend that we invented “Drifting” here in the mountains not in Japan as most think and back in the 60’s. We called it power sliding because that is the term the dirt track racers used. Ok so now I have this 73 Mach 1 with 351 4V and 4 speed with 3.25 rear and I am the champ on the clover leaf power slide. I had to put a set of booster springs around the rear shocks to get it to do just right. I had a friend that owned a tire store and he tells me I was his best customer getting about 2,000 miles out of a set of tires. A good friend had a 69 roadrunner and it really made him mad that he could not even come close to me on the clover leaf. He calls a buddy with a Cuda and he does not know how to drive so no competition there. So he goes and buys one of the then new Datsun Z cars and calls me out. I could leave the Mach 1 in 2nd. gear and eat his lunch. I made him so mad that he set fire to the car to get out of the deal. I also go to the autocross races and they all tell me to slow down so I can go faster but burning the tires and smoking the whole lot up until you cannot see was so fun. The crowd would cheer each time. They always had a hairpin turn and then the finish and I would keep the tires lite up until I hit the finish line. The highway patrol during the time I drove the 1950 Ford would chase me but could not catch me on the curvy roads and there were only two of them and worked shifts so nobody to radio to. Hard to believe but a flathead V8 that was built as far as you could go and good suspension could out handle a 1966 Galaxy with 428 CJ in it. That was its downfall too heavy in the front. When I got the Mach 1 times had changed and there were more cops on the roads that will be another story of how we had fun in the Mountains. Good memories, David
  21. 1972 Mach 1 T-5 "Q" 4 speed, sports interior 1972 Convertible "Q" C-6, Ginger Sebring Knit interior, building track car with it. 1972 H code FMX Convertible Parts car. 1972 H code 3 speed Convertible Parts car, was one owner got crashed. 1973 Mach 1, 4 speed, original owner, has 41 factory or dealer installed options, 12,000 miles 1973 Convertible "H" code FMX yellow with white interior 1973 H code FMX Grande zero rust and loaded with options. 1973 H code C-6 Convertible, Non Factory Color Six Digit DSO code Black with Argent Front Bumper.
  22. That does look good did you laser scan the Mach 1 lettering? I was in tooling for many years but didn't get to use equipment for fun. David
  23. Was talking with another member about the space saver spares and thought I would share this story from the past. I ordered a 1973 Mach 1 and still own it. It came with the space saver spare and canister to fill it if needed. One Saturday I was headed home and my short cut took me across a section of the Blue Ridge Parkway in western North Carolina. I was a couple miles from home and tire goes down. I pulled over and thought a minute and decided I did not want to put the space saver on the ground or use the expensive cylinder, $16.00 then. I had a 1971 Maverick Grabber that I ordered new also and ordered the heavy duty suspension which gave me 5 lug wheels that were the same as the Mustang. So I decide to just walk home the couple miles and get the Maverick and use the regular spare in it. Beautiful day and a good walk. So I get the Maverick go back to the Mach 1 and change the tire. Hum what to do now I have two cars to get home. No cell phones in 1974 so I decide to drive one car as far as I could see then go back and get the other and take it past that one as far as I could see. Yes I was a cheap rascal for sure. Anyway during one of my walks between cars someone stopped and asked if I needed a ride and I told them no that I was in that car pointing to the Mustang and turned around and said that car also pointing to the Maverick. They looked at me like how the H___ did you get two cars here. So I more or less walked 6 miles to keep from using the space saver spare that is still in the trunk and never used. I am 66 and grew up with the Mustang and have 8 of them. Simple, easy to work on and were well worth the money back then. I don't think much of that statement applies today. Can you see doing a ground up on a 2015 Mustang in 40 + years, never happen. If you have a funny story with your ride share it. I will get into what drifting was like back in the 60's and 70's and no the Japanese did not invent it. I came from right here in the mountains. Oh the pic is the space saver spare. The car has not been washed or cleaned in 32 years sits in the barn. David
  24. Looking around cl Charlotte, N.C. this morning and there is a 73 Mach 1 "H" code that is for sale due to health issues, been listed a couple weeks. It looks like if you can turn a wrench that is all that is left to do on the car. It is 4N color Aqua Blue could not see the interior code in pic. It is $10,000. The other is a 71 vert. 302 auto and not much info on it but the price is only $3200. Might be a good project car. I recently purchased a car of cl in the Charlotte area and got it for half the asking price. Money will talk for sure if someone is motivated to sell. Let me know if you buy either car I have no place to put another one, lol. David
  25. Great info. and more should take note of what is being done in their car repairs. I myself was a tooling engineer in the automotive world for over 30 years. When a car is first produced they have very strict standards for all the steel used in the build, strength, (tensile, yield, elongation) and unless Ford has put their mark on the REPO part that they agree it is made to their engineering requirements you can expect less than OEM parts. I see some of the parts from Taiwan and China that you can bend with your fingers that I know cannot be equal to OEM. They just fill the void that the rust left. Yes the car is probably in better shape than with nothing but carpet for a floor but it will not be as designed. I hear horror stories of how people struggle to get their car back together because the doors, trunk, fenders and hood do not fit after the floor, torque box and rocker repair. They cut sections out of doors to get the clearance right again or do the same to a quarter panel. It is very difficult to put a car back together in your garage without a fixture to hold it and the proper measurements from locator holes. Like they are saying you can do the work yourself cut some corners but it will be in the back of your mind if you did a good enough job. Check around there are great shops that are just set up to do the floors, frame rails and trunks on our collector cars. Yes they do charge a healthy rate and if you have every tried it yourself you know why. Like I have said before when I start on a car it goes to the frame shop and is checked to see that everything is where the factory designed it. It never is and after they pull and take the twist out and get everything right the I work on the car. The panels fit much better and the dimensions are right. If you have ever jacked your mustang up by using the front cross member and lifter the whole front end you probably have bent the structure especially with the rust that time brings. You can crack your windshield by doing this also. Just normal driving over time bends them and they need to be corrected. I got tooooo wound up again just wish everyone would be safer doing their repairs. David
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