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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. I see all the comments about the improper black outs on hoods and agree. I see cars on eBay that they want big bucks for with the shiny paint on the hood. When I asked why they said it was too difficult to keep the flat paint clean. I have a 73 Mach with the original black paint on the hood. I will take some pictures some day for reference for all. I would need to take the hood off to get good picture of how they did the rear of the hood on the bottom. You for sure know they were only trying to make production when you see how they taped it off. Another area on the 73 models that bugs me is around the front side marker light. Ford sprayed around the light and the light with the flat black paint before putting the side stripe on. Most cars I see show paint color there also. I quit MCA due to them telling me I would have to change things on my car that were not original to do any better. I won a 3 rd. in unrestored at the Nationals one year without cleaning the underside of the car. I never went back they have tunnel vision on how cars are built. They said I had incorrect screws in places and they came from Ford that way. We made parts or 12 or 15 different Ford vehicles at one time. You have parts that get rework and they sit in a warehouse until you get several racks and then rework and ship. The date codes can be 6 months old by then. We welded up fractures in panels and ground them down and that was an acceptable repair for Ford. If you run out of a fastener that is in the spec. engineering will approve a sub. to keep the line going. Parts can actually be pulled from service in some cases to fill the requirements on the line if there are issues in the part supply. One time for a model change build for Ranger trucks I ordered the panels from Ford service stripped them altered them and sold them back to Ford for several times what they cost. It saved us having to pull a set of dies from the yard and make 20 parts to fill the prototype order. Enough venting. The hood black out or argent paint is applied incorrect more than correct for sure. Cars in the 60's and 70's were put together with hands not robots in fact one left a lit cigarette under a console I pulled out once. There it was melted into the carpet. Enjoy reading all the Mustang stories. David
  2. Hello from N.C., I recently purchased a 72 Q vert with C6. This was a guys project car that a divorce forced the sell. His friend bought it and then I got from the friend. My issue is that the friend did not get a list of what was put into the engine and trans. Without knowing the exact parts in the engine I do not know valve settings or anything. I guess my only way to be sure is to tear the engine back down. It has never be run and still on engine stand that came with the car. All he can tell me is that he thinks it is 10.5 to 1 with a .577" lift roller with roller rockers. I can see the valves have been swirl polished but do not know brand or type. He also says triple valve springs. He says it was balanced but I know nothing about if it has stock rods, bolts, studs etc. I guess I just tear it down and see what is there? He says the C-6 was also just built with shift kit and high stall converter but cannot give me specifics. He has also upgraded the rear to a 9" Detroit locker with he thinks 4.11 gear. Again I do not know the specifics. I sort of want to finish the build but might also sell the car as is. I had ram air Ford stuff, tilt column, rim blow, console. It was dipped to strip all rust and paint and was epoxy primed inside closed areas and on surface. I guess I am asking if I take some pictures of what is in the engine I am sure someone out there can tell me what it has in it. I would never have gone that radical for a street car too much upkeep with a cam lift like that. I understand they eat the valve springs or just kill them. So I will go to the storage bld. where the engine is take some pictures and go from there. I am sure there are guys out there that know these parts and engines inside and out. He tells me there is over $5,000. in the engine and tans. Had a couple pics on phone will pull intake and pan to get better ones there. The come to look at place for garage tomorrow, hurray. Thanks, David
  3. New at this so probably doing it wrong, lol. I just purchased a 1973 convertible H code with c-4, yellow with white top and white and black interior, air, ps, pb, has headers and aluminum wheels not ford. I am waiting on delivery to N.C. it is California car and never been painted or restored. The other car is 72 Q code with c-6, factory ram air car, tilt column, ginger sebring knit interior and I think it had black top originally. It is gold metallic has chrome bumpers with guards and magnum 500 wheels. This car was taken completely apart and dip stripped and all metal repaired. I was epoxy primer and sprayed inside the boxes and places that paint would not reach. It has been started in assembly with all new parts and is back to rolling chassis. Engine is built with forged pistons, big cam, roller rockers and triple springs with racing valves. After getting the Marti on this car not going to sell one of 320 CJ made with C-6. Since posting this I have also purchased a 72 vert parts car that was loaded with options even P.W.. Also purchased another 73 off eBay that is Factory Special Order with Black exterior. Marti says one of 144 special order mustangs in 73. Had Argent front bumper according to the build sheet and looks like Argent side stripe and hood insert. With the help of forum members I purchased another 72 vert parts car that was a one owner that was in perfect shape until hit in the rear and crashed in the front. The interior and top is exactly the same as what I needed for the 72 Q vert and it they had just installed ceramic coated headers and stainless dual exhaust so that will also go to the Q vert. I hope this is all the verts I will own too many now, lol. David
  4. Hello, New to the group and reading through some of the projects going on. I want to hear how your work has turned out? I have put a flat piece of metal into a blasting cabinet and hit just one side and the metal curls up so I would be concerned with warping the panels. The media, usually plastic, that does not warp the metal will not remove the rust. I understand from a friend that does extreme builds for people, like $150,000.00 that most of the paint suppliers will not guarantee their materials if you have sand blasted. I guess they say some of the silicone in the sand causes the paint not to adhere over time it bubbles. I can see blasting the door edges and around hinges and such but the outside skin scares me about warping and then having to skim coat everything with bondo like you see on the TV shows doing the 7 day wonders. I would like to see one of those cars in a few years. Let me know how it has gone. I just bought a car that was dipped and they have their issues also. Thanks, David Oh forgot one other thing. It is not really the heat that does the warping it is like 10,000 little hammers hitting the surface which displaces metal. When the metal displaces it has to go somewhere so it warps the panel and getting that warp out is almost impossible. Like someone else said blast the edges but strip the flat areas and you will be happier in the end. I have gone to car wash coated the car in stripper and pressure washed the mess off into their drains. Naughty boy but that is all I had back in the 70's. Keep the out of the crusher.
  5. [attachment=29171][attachment=29172][attachment=29173] It is sinking into the ground. There seemed to be no interest when I bought it back in 1975. It needed a front clip to fix he hit a steel pole while racing a Camaro. It was blue with blue Mach 1 sports interior, console, fold down seat, front and rear spoiler and rear window defogger, gages and if I remember correct air, p.s., p.b.. Still has the export sticker on the drivers door I think a DSO of 90. Never got a Marti to see where it was sold but a Army Sargent brought it home with him. I have a friend that has a 65 fastback T-5 that I painted in 1974 for him before most people knew what they were. It had the owners manual from Germany in glove box and he bought it for $800.00 back then. I have some NOS 65 / 66 and 71 - 72- 73 T-5 emblems packed up somewhere. I think a few hubcaps also. I took the engine, trans and rear out of the T-5 but have them. If interested I attached a couple pics I had. David I started my apprenticeship in 1968 with Square D Company. Even back then we built everything to the numbers from designs using Moore Jig Bore and Jig Grinders and EDM. When I went to the Automotive side I was a die cast engineer and could not believe how crude the automotive style tooling was then. I went to work at Husqvarna plant where they built lawn equipment and tillers as engineering manager and got them to change their way of tooling to what we did in the electrical and made big gains in their profits because everything lasted much longer and they had really high volume, 5.000 riding mowers a day and 20,000 push mowers with a 1,000 or so tillers thrown in. Then I went to automotive stamping and gradually got the place I was with to change and now they do the same. We supplied Ford for years until Ford decided we were too small and they quit letting us quote so we told them to come and get their tooling because of all the give backs you could not make any money. We made parts for Town car, Mark, econoline made the whole front floor assembly with dash and dog house, mustang, cougar, t-bird, crown vic, mercury grand marc, Taurus, sable, ranger, F series pretty much anything they needed. When they loaded the dies out it took over 200 trucks to clear them out. Yes tooling has changed a lot. My last job was engineering manager at tool shop in China. They can do tooling so much faster and the shop I was at used good steels and castings. They could get to 90% way faster than the U.S. just struggled getting that last 10% but they get better with each job. We were doing a bunch of DP for GM when I left. I saw one Honda project for sun roof frame go to press first hit and be in the +90 PIST panels. I brought back some money from China I did not sent it over to them. I have a 1950 ford from a barn in Buffalo has 16,000 miles on it with original tires. Stay warm will talk more I am sure. David
  6. I had thought I had posted a reply to your alu wheel questions. I have four sets actually, one on the 73 they came on, another set off a mustang, a set off a Mercury and a set off a Maverick. I saw one reply saying that the Maverick ones were smaller. I just went to the barn and pulled out one off the mustang, maverick and the Mercury. There are three different diameters but the Maverick and Mustang were the same about 2.440" calipers would not go into wheel to get accurate, The other two sets one had 2.75" dia. and the last was 2.84" dia.. They all had the same offset and measured from bead to bead 6" and over the wheel 7". I took some pics but cannot get them off the new camera do not have the software. If there is another diameter I do not have them but I know one set was off a Maverick I still have the center caps. I know the Mercury is larger than the Mustang due to the front hubs and rear axles having a larger diameter that centers the wheel and supports the car weight the lugs just hold the wheel on and do not locate it. Just more information. You could put any of the wheels on a lathe and open the center hole up to fit what you have. The slots actually have the mill finish from the machine process that looks something like a 180 grit sand but for sure a mill finish. David
  7. Hello, A couple notes on the wheels. I have three sets of them. One from a Mercury, one from Mustang and one from Maverick. The Maverick and Mustang are the same just different wheel caps but the Mercury is different. The hubs and axle center on a Mercury are larger than a Mustang so the center hole would be larger if it is Mercury. The weight of the car is designed to be carried by the center hole and the lugs hold it on so a Mercury wheel would not fit correctly on a Mustang. I will measure later and post results for future reference. The slots had a sanded finish when new that was maybe 180 grit on a sanding drum. The paint like everyone says is easy to fix. They are a pain to keep looking good because they are not sealed with anything when new and you have to keep harsh cleaners off or they corrode in minutes. I think they look better than aftermarket polish them up. David
  8. Eddy, I just joined the group and will throw in my two cents worth. These are tough to find with the right date codes so many got trashed. One thing I notice is that the valve in the wheel has not been replaced with the "safety valve". People actually got killed inflating these with an air hose instead of the canister. The canisters were not cheap back then and are very expensive now. They would pump the up too high and they explode. As they get older I am sure the will hold less pressure so be careful when inflating to clean. There was a factory recall to install the safety valve when they first came out. For cleaning I have found that a product called Bleche-White does the best of anything I have tried. Leaves the tire looking like a new tire not a shiny greasy look. You can get at most automotive supplies or Wal Mart. I would not put Armor All on anything.... If you use it on something and get it on a surface you want to pait you will have fish eyes. I know one paint shop here that someone took a bottle in and used and they had to almost tear the place apart to get rid of the fish eyes. It got into the air and pulled into the filters in the paint booth and it all had to be torn out and scrubbed to get rid of it. If you were to take a bottle into any automotive plant you would probably be arrested it would cost millions to clean out of their paint system. You can also do your own test on a piece of vinyl apply it and put in sun and keep applying and it will become cloudy looking. Just wash the wheel with prep solvent and either blast it or sand and repaint. I am sure you know there is a warning label that goes on the rim also you can get reprints of. I can get some pictures of the valve and label if you need. David
  9. Daniel, They told me I was crazy when I ordered the car and said they would sell me any LTD on the lot for less. When I said the mustangs would be worth something one day they all laughed. This is what is on the window sticker. Mustang Mach 1, Trim Rings W/Hub Caps, Dual Racing Mirrors, Competition Suspension, Color keyed Carpeting, All – Vinyl Bucket Seats. 351 CID 4V 8 Cylinder Tutone Hood Paint Ginger ¾ vinyl Roof Four – Speed Manual Transmission With Hurst Shifter Traction – Lok Differential 4 – F70 X 14 Wide Oval Belted BSW Tires / Raised White Ltrs Goodyear Brand Name Tires Rear Deck Spoiler Convenience Group Power Steering Tilt Steering Wheel Leather – Wrapped Steering Wheel Sport Deck – Rear Seat With 1 – F78 X 14 Space Saver Spare Console Power Front Disc Brakes Front Color – Keyed Floor Mats Air Conditioner – Selectaire Electric Rear Window Defroster Sterosonic Tape System AM Radio Interval Windshield Wipers Mach 1 Sports Interior Option Deluxe Belts Tinted Glass – Complete Power Side Windows Forged Aluminum Wheels Rear Bumper Guards 10 Gallons Gas The invoice that I still have is for $5,203.92 I have never seen another mustang that cost more except the newer ones. The base dealer price for a Mach 1 was only $2,624.00 so the options almost equaled the cost of the base car. What do you have in Denmark? Never been there been to Germany a few times but no long stays there. I do have a German model T-5 72 Mach 1 that a friend of mine wrecked and I bought to keep from crushing but seems nobody wants them and it is a Q car 4 speed. Have a great day got to eat my dinner. David
  10. Hello, I am new to the group trying to figure out the web site. I am 66 retired and have been a car nut all my life. Built my first car while in high school in 1964 / 65. I worked in one of the old time NASCAR shops in Asheville while in Tech school and was a tool & die maker and had 30 years as and automotive tooling engineer. I have worked with all the U.S. car companies and some in Europe and also spent a year and half in China. I will list the Mustangs I have. 1965 convertible 4-V, 4 speed, 1965 convertible 2-V Automatic, 1972 Mustang convertible Q automatic, 1972 Mustang Mach 1 T-5, Q, 4 speed, 1973 Mach 1 that I ordered new with every option on the list with 12,000 miles. Sadly it has sat in the barn for over 30 years engine poured full of oil to protect the cylinders and valves. 1973 Mustang convertible H code automatic California car. I also have a 1984 20th. ann Mustang that I bought new and a 1985 Mustang SVO. So I am Mustang poor for sure. I also have 5 other older cars. I will start on new garage as soon as the weather breaks here in the mountains. I do all my own work from mechanical to paint and also interior work. I may be selling some of the cars not enough years left to do what I had hoped I bought lots of NOS Ford parts over the years and stashed in the garage for retirement and working on my cars. I may be able to answer questions about how the cars were put together or how parts were made since I tooled car parts for over 40 years. You would not want to buy a car if you knew how much Ford paid for the bodies. A complete body ready to go to ecoat cost Ford less than a $1,000 for the most expensive ones. Exhaust system cost more than bodies in some cases as well as wiring harness. Would you believe it cost less than $15.00 to stamp a front fender? Company I was with made lots of Ford's aluminum trim parts including most of the grills for big cars and trucks. All the tooling is long gone but I kept some of the part blueprints. If anyone is interested in tooling any parts I know lots of shops in China that do better work than most you see coming here today. I was engineering manager at a tool shop in China. I will try to get some pictures posted of all my junk here. The registry page would not let me list the options on the 73 Mach 1 I guess it was too much, there were 27 options from factory on it. Have a great day, David
  11. Hey, Looking for 73 tilt column and black full length console. I am in N.C.
  12. Good Morning, I am also new to the group but not new to Mustangs and cars. I was an automotive tooling engineer for the last 30 years and tool & die maker before that. Mustangs, especially convertibles should only have floor / frame work done with the car on a "JIG" to keep everything in place. There is a shop in I think Atlanta that has the JIGs to put your car in the proper position and major floor and frame work is all they do. Graverobbers is their name if I remember correctly. Do a search and you should find their web page. Since you have not done this job before it is not something for a first timer unless you have someone helping that has done the work. When I go to work on any new project I take the car to a frame shop and have them tweak the frame / body back to the factory specs. Mustangs, especially with 351 C and 429 engines will tend to bend over time from the pounding of the road, rust and the heavy engines. If you have access to a set of Ford car shop manuals go to the Volume 4 Body manual. In section 47-07-10 you will find the Underbody Dimensions for the Mustang Cougar. A good frame shop now uses lasers to verify these dimensions. Shock towers will move inches on a really rusty car. If you remove the floors and frame rails without properly bracing the body the door openings will be all out of shape and you will never get the body to look right without lots of pain. If you do not have the Ford manual I can scan the pages you need and email. The entire car body had holes that are used at the factory to position and space the body panels in the correct place. Ford at one time tried to go with their "No adjust car build" but found that it is impossible. Today with like truck frames they weld them up and then go into a fixture and laser cut the mounting points to make them right instead of trying to hold them in place during all the welding. Long post but your best bet will be the Graverobbers I think. Not too far from you in Hendersonville, N.C. have four convertibles and two Mach 1's, SVO and Ann car. Do it right and you will be happy. David
  13. Hello, I am new member and working on a 73 convertible and wanted a tilt column. I have a 73 Mach 1 that I ordered and it came with tilt wheel. I am going from memory here so I could be wrong for sure. When I ordered the car Ford would not allow you to order tilt with a rim blow something about the wiring. This was in 73 so I ordered the leather wheel and got the tilt. Also I thought the 73 tilt was different that 71 -72. I just purchased a 72 convertible also and it has tilt with rim blow but do not know if it was original don't have a Marti on the car. Thanks, David
  14. Hello, I am new member in Western North Carolina and thought I would put a couple thoughts into the mix. I agree with all those saying to check out the block a parts for cracks or defects for sure. There is one other area that they are getting very strict about here in North Carolina. Due to the high number of auto thefts they are actually checking serial numbers at swap meets and when you title a car. Here in North Carolina your are required to change the title of the car if you change the engine. If the engine is from a car that had a VIN# Ford stamped the last of the serial number into the block on the rear below the left head. You should at least get a BOS that states the engine type, size, etc. and has the serial number. There are people that will make the serial numbers match for you car. When Harrah's car collection was in existence in Reno I tried to sell them a car and they would not purchase a car if they motor, chassis and title VIN# did not match. They told me that the person with the title with the vin for the engine could come in and take it if not properly documented. Just some thoughts of what has happened. Will try and get some of my cars on the registry soon. David
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