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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. I was invited to a meeting in Highlands, N.C. by Hagerty Insurance, about 50 miles from me to a group of racing and sports car enthusiasts. That is on Saturday. After I signed up I then received a great calendar showing any race type events in my area. There are quite a few. There are lots of autocross and track day events all around my area. I am sure you have the same type register in your area. You might be able to figure it out from my link to my schedule. I went to local autocross just 9 miles away on Tuesday so not just weekends. There is also an autocross in Franklin just a few miles away so will go to it also. They are free to watch. My E brake is not working and PB booster blown on the 73 vert or I would run it just for fun. Be glad when this neck gets fixed so I can work on something again. Could not get a link for some reason You can see the info on this screen print. Maybe it did attach below.
  2. I see you were asking questions on what was different from Marti. The paint code is for Medium Brown Metallic or was called that in 1973. 72 might have been different name. The Mach 1 in this picture is mine and is that color. If the radio is AM/FM and 8 track would have came from a Lincoln or T-Bird never in a Mustang. Only AM / 8 Track in Mustang. The lock button in the window control just turns off the other three window switches. It does not lock the doors. Cougar had Power Door Locks and the Power Window harness has the connector for them but was not offered. Could have been a special order for Trim or Paint but would be a six digit DSO code and would show up on the build sheet. All 1971 - 1973 verts had glass rear window. Your car originally had the little narrow bump strips down the side which have been removed and stripe added. To get the stripe on convertible you had to get the Decor Group which blacked out the bottom side of the car and got you a Mach 1 grill. The hood black is incorrect should be flat and different size. You did get the NASA hood with the Q code engine in 1972 but if the hood was black it would also have hood locks they came as one option. The door panels are repo for sure. For some reason they just cannot get them to look right they are all splotchy. I found an insurance crash that had perfect ginger interior for my car. The hood locks were out to do a rub off for a member to do his hood by. Current templates are incorrect. With the Magnum 500 wheels you should also have a BFG space saver spare like the one in the pic. People do make changes in them to fit their taste. The 72 Q vert I have is a C-6 and pretty loaded as well. No AC and I am removing the protection package and adding stripe. Also Power windows going in. So some answers to some questions there will be many more I have new ones each day.
  3. Welcome to the Forum from North Carolina. Guys you know they did make a GT-351 in Mexico but only in coupe form. They had 351 W instead of C. Interiors were different also rear and transmission were different. Painted body color under the hood. Here is only pics I had handy of one, Ford ad and a car. They also made the 1973 Sprint version in Mexico they had the two tone paint scheme.
  4. A little bit shy are we. Welcome and come out and let the world know what you have.
  5. Welcome to the Forum for North Carolina, USA, a former colony of England but we won.
  6. WOW, sounds like the engine was a pain for sure. On the broken drill bit in the hole. If you find a mold shop that has and EDM, Electrical Discharge Machine, they can burn the broken drill and bolt out for sure. Not cheap but does not matter if hard or not will burn it out. They actually tossed a working EDM where I worked and I did not know. I just happened to see it sitting outside but it had rained on it and rusty and the electrical was probably shot. It was working I had shown a couple workers how to use it to get broken taps out in past. I had been wondering why no body shop pics and progress there?
  7. That is amazing that they still have them. Has different size threads for the fill valve compared to R-134, it is smaller. Hope it works.
  8. Just to stir you thoughts. Remember to cut you a piece of wood to put on top of the frame rail to keep the upper control arm from dropping all the way down when you lift the front of the car. If you do not will crush the upper rubber bushing on the shock. The full pressure of the spring crushes the rubber and will split it. Ford had a special tool but wood block works fine. I had one fall out the other day when cleaning my wheels and sure enough split new rubber on that side. Your package will go out soon so look for a message when it leaves.
  9. Moving along great. I think they sort of blew you off on the frame rails having lots of variation. We stamped sub frames for Ford on several different vehicles. You do not get but a few thousandths of variation due to the parts coming from a hard die not fabricated. The bolts you mentioned are standard socket heat shoulder screws like are used in dies. They are about equal to a grade 5 bolt. On factory bolts that go through a channel we welded in stamped brackets to prevent collapse. The shoulder bolts to work though. I was reading through some of the SCCA rules the other night and saw they have approved the Swedish Steel Docal for use in roll cages. About time been around for over 15 years and is way better than 4140 or 4150. No weld issue with it.
  10. Just a thought. Did the old cars not have a limiting cable to stop the drop? I would think that you might need some kind of rubber cushion in there to prevent it banging every time it goes to full travel? Maybe a piece of old tire or thick conveyor belt just so not steel to steel. I had my 73 vert on the lift the other day to clean the wheels and I have put my wood limiting blocks on the frame under the upper arms. The right hand one came out and I did not notice. So when I did notice was too late it split the rubber shock bushing on that side with just one lift. They were NOS made in USA also. Went to local autocross on Tuesday of all days. There were two Tesla cars there but they were not the fastest due to handling. One is strictly a race car also. They ran into the night I left at 10:00 there was no way I could have seen the gates and cones it was too dark. Many missed them. On the American motors. My uncle had one of the red white and blue Rebels I think they were called. Ran really good. The pic is not his but one like it. His son sold all of his cars never kept any of them and one was a 1935 Ford coupe with 800 miles on it, like new. Had a Packard Limo. several Model A roadsters, AA Model A log truck, and several others. My son same way no interest in cars at all unless new. The local tech school was restoring an AMC to sell but have not seen lately at shows.
  11. I always hated putting any stripes on. I would have had the garage door shut to prevent any breeze from blowing them around after I pulled the backing off and I always used soapy water. Sucks you got one backwards. On the lower part you are talking about the tape the goes between body color and lower black? What was missing? The hood layout looks way better than most for sure. You would think someone would make the right texture paint for them. I saw a 69 or 70 at Carlisle that had the correct texture and no shine but he could not remember what paint they used at the body shop, so there is something out there. I think you will enjoy a white car especially on hot days. A dark colored car is never clean for sure. Great that you are moving along. Interior goes pretty fast.
  12. See you are using R-12 in the AC system. Did you go through and replace all the O-rings and clean the system? If not the new refrigerant will just leak out. I doubt you will find a charging hose for a can of R-12 I have a couple but very old. I switched my systems over to Duracool R12a, which is even better that R-12 and way better that R-134. I took my system apart and cleaned all the connections, new dryer filter, new lube in compressor and O-rings in everything. There are two drain plugs on the compressor that need O-rings and also the vent on the rear side needs one. If it will not hold a vacuum no need in charging it without fixing the leak. To prevent the connections from sticking I put a little anti seize on the threads. Not the O-rings or inside the system only the threads. When going back together you tighten and loosen the connections repeatedly to seat them. Of course lube the O-rings with compressor oil. I have a case of DuPont R-12 and a 30lb. tank in the shop if it has not leaked down. Have not used in years. I do sell the cans. Link to Duracool. https://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html
  13. Just saw your post on working on your Vert. One of the best panel replacement shops in the U.S. is near Atlanta. They have done work for members that worked out great. Be very specific of what you want and how you want it put in writing so there is no gray areas. All they do is panel replacement not a body shop and will only put primer on, ZERO body and paint work. https://www.graverobberssheetmetal.com/index.php/custom-frame-jigs You will need to deliver the car with everything stripped off and out of the way for them to remove the old panels and replace with the new. They do not have the pricing for 71 - 73 on their site but you can see what it is for other years. If you call be patient they do not have someone sitting there starring at a phone to answer immediately. I am in Hendersonville, N.C. not too far away. I have five 72 & 73 verts but no 302.
  14. Chris a couple of questions. Looking at your picture of the brake bleeder hooked to your front caliper I think you have the caliper on the wrong side. The bleed valve should always be at the highest point on any disc brake set up. There will be air in the system for sure no way to get that bubble out of the top of the bore. Here is a picture of one of mine. On the console around the shift boot. The manual shift cars have an additional piece that goes around the boot to hide the screws. It sits loose under the console and hides the base of the boot and the carpet. They do repo them but only the one for the short console. The only difference was that the long console has four rounded corners. I do not think I have a picture on this computer. NPD has them for sure and maybe a member has and original. Will be black on all color consoles. I did not have a picture showing the bleed valve this is best I could do for now. Here is a link to one Don has it is configured like the short version was. The long did not have the ears sticking out. Will fit and cannot see the ears. https://www.ebay.com/itm/192471265334?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=192471265334&targetid=1264870804704&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9010303&poi=&campaignid=10455986539&mkgroupid=123050588060&rlsatarget=pla-1264870804704&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6557784&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr7roxpaa8gIVpBx9Ch0hNwqbEAQYAyABEgKAlPD_BwE
  15. I have posted several times. Here are pics of a NOS set of speakers. If you find the old speaker frames they can replace the cones done all the time. I just bought two doors last week that had door speakers and Power Windows difficult harness to find for sure.
  16. Ford and the repo people always do that. They do not care if you have to do extra work. When Ford went to service for the rear quarters they were all 73 with the extra holes in them also. Lots of people do not notice and get paint on and then have to weld them up.
  17. Interesting that you could get out without moving the dash rearward. It is only like 8 bolts to do that. I tell people I will do a heater core for half what shop quote is for labor. They are crazy expensive to get replaced.
  18. Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.
  19. A ZZ disc in the player in the garage right now.
  20. On the wobble. Check to see that your nut is not bottoming out on the threads on the spindle. You might try putting an extra washer on the outside just to make sure it is not bottomed out and giving you a wrong torque reading. Maybe spindle threads not long enough. You might try swapping sides with the hub and see if it wobbles on both spindles. One mistake some owner's make when installing any bearing it to hit it with a hammer. Yes in an emergency you can use a piece of pipe to hit only the inner race on a ball bearing. You should always use a hydraulic press to install bearings and especially the races in the hub. I had two uncles that worked for Timken bearing in Canton Ohio. I got to do a full tour of the facility from making the steel to finished products out the door. They made bearings you could sit inside, for the steel rolling mills, down to tiny small ones. The tolerances are held to millionths of an inch. Pretty much all gauges were air gauges to be able to check close enough. Tapered bearings like in the front hubs are much easier to make than ball bearings. If the outer race is a little bigger it just lets the bearing cage drop in a little deeper. As long as the angles on the races and bearings are right it all works out. If Covid had not hit I was headed to China to follow tooling being built for Timken bearing. Just by chance met the buyer and nobody at Timken wanted to go to China. Why I do not know safer there than here. I need to make contact with him now I could use some mad money.
  21. I had seen this before also. The only thing that I find different is that when I remove the factory applied seam sealer and sound deadening there is no primer under it. They said primer then sealer but I have never seen that on any of my cars.
  22. I have never seen yellow seals in any of my engines even the one I bought new. I am betting someone changed them in the past to prevent them from getting into the pan. When I was a teenager I made the tools to change the seals on a Y block without pulling the heads. Later made one for 289 - 302. I just cleaned them up in the molasses tank the other day. I will look when in the shop later. I think the originals have the Ford logo on them.
  23. Looks like I answered my question. There is a video on youtube showing how to change the shift seal. Here is link if anyone is also looking. Not difficult just have to pull the pan and the valve body out.
  24. With Covid my 1973 vert just sat in the shop. I had couple guys come to look at parts last week so I got them to help me push it over to the lift. When we moved it big puddle of automatic transmission fluid on the floor. The last time I drove it looked like I had a coolant leak at one of the connections on the water pump for the heater core. Turned out to be the thermostat housing and I got that done yesterday. While at the parts store I got a rear seal for the C-4 but I think it is also leaking at the shifter. Yes this is a 351-C that did not come with a C-4 but the PO swapped out the FMX for a C-4 with shift kit. Works great just need to stop some of the dripping. The car sat for 27 years which is not good for seals. Can I change the seal on the shifter without removing pan or transmission? I have never worked on automatic other than change fluid and filter. I wanted to drive it to the Mustang Owner's Museum this weekend for the delayed Mustang Day celebration. Not going for all three days spent too much on travel already this year. Headed to shop to put on lift and take a look at leaks. Thanks for any suggestions or links to the repair.
  25. A question for you. Does your leaf springs still have the clamps around them to hold them together? If not you need them to help with spring wrap up. Back when money was tight we use to take another main leaf spring and cut the eye off the front and cut the back off just back where the axle housing mount sits. Would add this 1/2 leaf to the front side of the springs on top of the main leaf. We would make two clamps for the front and one for the rear and really helped with wheel hop and wrap up and just used a junk spring. You can see the stock clamps in this picture.
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