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Everything posted by Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

  1. Try tightening your header bolts again. Sometimes an exhaust leak will sound like a tick. Pull the valve covers and while the engine idles put a wood dowel on each rocker and push on it to find the one with tick. Lots of things it can be but if just a tick don't worry too much. My F-150 has had a tick since brand new and now has 312,000 miles on it still ticks.
  2. I see that your tail light housing is like most of them turned off color inside due to heat. I blast them with walnut shells to remove the powder surface and then spray with Fusion paint by Krylon in Satin white. Makes the lights much brighter and the housings look new. I use for the side marker light housings and also the front turn signal on the 73.
  3. Something odd is that in 1973 there were no Cobra Jet engines but the Ford document calls it a CJ. Marti does not and none of the Ford brochures show it either. The service manuals show CJ and HO in 73 they never got corrected.
  4. I just picked up a Power Window set up on Friday out of Mach 1. Be careful taking the pancake motors apart they are scarce for sure and WCCC video is a great help. Use the Lucas Oil Red N Tacky #2 grease instead of the old white grease much better. Use on the tracks and rollers also. Lots of cleaning to do on them I am sure. Doing mine now.
  5. When I stated sanding on the 1972 Q code vert I bought as a failed restoration I found the drivers door NOT SO GOOD. He had done some patching on the rusty bottom and there was way too much body filler for my taste. So taking that door off is what finished my neck off. I have been looking everywhere, facebook marketplace and Craigslist for a better door. Most were just as bad as what I have. Then last week I found a pair of doors with power windows and he had the rear PW also. So I went and picked them up on Friday. Was sitting parked on I-40, due to a crash miles ahead, and it was 95 deg. My truck AC does not work so I was cooking. It got to 98 before I headed back home. The doors are pretty solid, tearing them down now, and I will only need the drivers door as far as I know. The Power Windows will go to Ebay. I needed the rear switch bases but only one was present in this set. It was also a door speaker car so the wire harness for the front doors includes the door speakers which if very difficult to find. The front bezels are there but for sure not pristine would need a re plate to be show quality. He did not have the under hood and under dash part of the wire harness so no solenoid. The guy selling the parts was clearing out his dad's hoard of parts and cars. He had over 200 cars and all but a few are gone. Even had 1932 and 1934 fords. He said they were the only two cars that actually brought more money than his dad paid for them. He backed up the fact that all the old guys are dying off and getting lower and lower prices for the older cars. He said the 55, 56 and 57 cheys he had brought way less than his dad paid for them years ago. The last two mustangs he has is a 1966 vert that was a T code 6 cylinder with bench seat. I looked at it but not worth even $500, no title and not door tag but the VIN# is still in the inner fender so you could get title. No engine and had automatic shifter but had clutch pedal. He is due to send me pics of the 1966 fastback he has that I have interest in for a flipper. I have several people searching for them of course. He had two more Fords I was interested in but he would not let me see them. A 1949 Ford Woodie Wagon and a 1951 Mercury Woodie Wagon. The Mercury would be a real find. I do not think I have ever seen one in person. He said his wife wants that one. When I get the Power Window stuff boxed up for Ebay will send link to ad. Oh BTW one guy on Marketplace wanted $800 for a bare door nothing but the door and not that great. I drove back through Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, Tenn.. WOW were the tourists out by the thousands. Saw one lone elk in a field just before getting to Cherokee.
  6. I just bought two 1972 doors Friday and have the deluxe door release if you need send me a PM.
  7. I am sure you did not have a place to grind the shoes to fit the drums. Most shops got rid of the brake shoe grinders due to the asbestos in the linings. If not ground to fit the drum it takes long time to wear in and have good brakes. Also if drum is bell mouth that is not good either. You should also remove any step on the backing plate where the shoes ride they can hang up on the steps. Here are some pics of the Ammco brake shoe grinder I have in my shop. I got the brake drum and disc lathe at an auction for $350 and the shoe grinder was $150 with the table I think it was. I cleaned them up and painted. So don't criticize your brakes if not good and let them wear in. Also do several fast back ups and hit the brakes to adjust them out properly.
  8. On the console you do not dye the ABS plastic parts you paint them with the SEM paint you can get from NPD. They also have new console lids if you need one. The extra plug under the drivers seat was for power seat option in Cougar. You can put in mustang but was not a standard option. Prep of the console is very important due to most having Armor all put on and that makes it almost impossible to paint without fish eyes.
  9. You can look with a mirror to see if backwards easy to do. Go look at the pic I sent the corners are way different will be easy to tell. Might be the issue not a water pump. The boiling after shutting off is big sign of head gasket wrong.
  10. I have tried to get the nob off also with no luck good to see a pic with threads on the stem. Will try again I think I have six but quit working on them could not get the nob off. THANKS
  11. My opinion waste of money. 2 post is way better. Go to shops and see how many 4 post you see, NONE. If you need storage expand building less cost. What do you do with the stored vehicle when you need the lift?
  12. I would ask you to go to the working shops out there and see how many have 4 post, NOT MANY. The four post allows you to lift the car 6' up and then you can jack it up to work on it. That is the craziest thought I have ever heard of. Needless to say I have a two post. I have worked on anything from my F-150 super crew to Hondas. I use it when just wiping down my mustang. It is a Dannmar asymmetrical 10,000 lb. lift that is certified. The asymmetrical allows you to get in and out of vehicle easier. I installed mine at 69 years of age with no help but an engine lift. The cut laser slots in the base to use to align with a chalk line you snap on the floor. No rocket science. I rented an impact drill for the anchor bolts and was done in 30 min. I have heard member talk about their Benpac units having the oil tank just burst at night and gallons of oil all over the shop. No pressure in the tank just oil storage. Like I say no issue with mine. They say 4" concrete but I went more where the columns were. Go talk to shops that work on cars every day and you will hear the same thing get a 2 post lift. Cheaper to build a larger building than stack cars on a lift with oil dripping down on the car under it. I can send you all kinds of pictures and info on the lift. I do not know anyone that works on cars that has a 4 post and yes they have accidents also. Saleen uses Dannmar lifts. My son works at BMW the use only 2 post lifts at the factory. Waste of your efforts to have a 4 post. The ramps are always in the way. Nothing in the way with two post. They have two post for low ceiling also. I will be using mine tomorrow to put in a rear seal in the automatic transmission. Here is a great example of how a two post is better. I used the two post to lift the chassis and mount onto the rotisserie. Impossible on a 4 post.
  13. I myself will never buy a new car again. They are raping the public. They took all the labor out of the build and demand a 3 - 5 % decrease in parts prices every year but jack the prices to the moon. THEY ARE IDIOTS AND YOU ARE TOO IF YOU BUY ONE. Quit buying them and the price will drop like a rock.
  14. They have been trying to play that car up to make money. Nothing special at all. Was on Ebay years ago. Just the TV guys trying to make more money.
  15. Too bad they did not even mention Gale Halderman the designer who sketched it out on his dining room table.
  16. Great to see you are starting out on right foot. I would have taken the car as is to frame shop to have put back to zero before anything is done.
  17. I am guessing you mean Ginger no tan in our cars. This is ginger interior but a 73 with leather wheel. I only have back ones. They do repo.
  18. I have one that my son has no interest in because it is old. Nobody has ever made an interesting offer. It was part of the inside display at Carlisle this year and just won peoples choice at a Mach 1 and Boss show in Concord, N.C.. 1973 12,000 mile original with 41 Ford options. I am 73 and can't take it with me. Thinking of donating to museum since family has no interest. Meccum wants to auction it and might be best way to get good exposure.
  19. It might not be your problem but the symptoms you have are the same as a backwards head gasket. Are you 100% sure you put the head gaskets on with the FRONT stamped on the gasket to the front? If you put the gaskets on with the mfg. logo up one is backwards. I got a great deal on my 73 because the guy never drove it for 25 years. He never had good reason why. When I got the car I did check to see that the baffle was in the block and that it had the correct 192 - 195 deg. thermostat and it did. But it got nearly to hot and when I turned off it blew the coolant out. That means there is a hot spot in a head that boils the water when no circulation at all. There are tiny holes in the head gasket that let some coolant into those areas. On a Cleveland no core plugs in head to pop out to check but you can look with a mirror between head and block. The front bottom corner is nearly square and the rear corner has big radius and angle.. The previous owner of the car I got had put the R.H. gasket on backwards. New gaskets and no issue in 90+ heat and stop and go at huge car shows in Tenn. The picture is of how the gasket on the drivers side would look. You would flip the gasket over for L.H. side not rotate. The hole in the tab up top has to be to the front. Hope you took pics of your gaskets on the block. The previous owner of my car was a professional racer in California and his pit crew built the engine but still put one gasket on wrong. I have fixed several 289 and 302 that were backwards over the years.
  20. Just repeating information given directly to me by what use to be the largest car collection in the U.S.A. Harrahs in Reno Nevada. He had over 3,200 restored cars and probably a 1,000 that were not. I took pictures of a Kaiser Darrian. It was the first fiberglass car not corvette. I had found in Asheville, NC. They ask if the engine and chassis number matched. I told them that I had not checked that close. They then filled me in with the info that if you did not have the right motor and someone came with title they could take. They said would not be interested in any car that did not match. Not something I made up what I was told by the accounting people at the museum when it was still private. It is now been broken up and all cars sold. A title is a title. The engine has a VIN# and the Body has same VIN#. I guess it just depends on how good your attorney is. I would try calling FBI but did so in past with another question and they ignored me, lol. Not something I said something I repeated from the largest car collection in the U.S. at that time. When I ever get an appointment with the DOT here I will ask them. I have been trying for over 2 months. I have no drivers license. You have to do by appointment and every time I go to their site they say no appointments available. They do the inspections of any out of state cars here before they get a NC title which all require. My 1950 Fords all have titles except one from Georgia and they did not have then.
  21. This would be a long shot but could be the reason. Boats that have two drive engines have one engine running one way and the other turns opposite to make the boat act right and go straight. When I was at the tech school a student built an engine for his car. Ground crank, new bearings, seals, pistons full rebuilt. It leaked oil. So the teacher had him tear down and put another rear seal in. Leaked just as bad. So they tore down again and the instructor noticed the hash marks on the seal surface were angled the wrong way. Was a crank for a boat motor that ran opposite direction. Had to find a normal car crank no leaks.
  22. I ordered my shop lights from them and they started flashing off and on after just two years. I ordered some more for my paint room vapor sealed. It is impossible to wire them they use one tiny wire and I have 12 gauge and one strand is three times the size of wire on light. I will probably trash them. The first ones were totally different last ones trash.
  23. There are also two positions to install the wiper arm. One is considered summer and one winter. The summer puts the arms way down and winter farther up. I did not know this until a member pointed out. Not in the owner's manual either. When you put the arm on the wiper mech. you can vary like 10 deg. up or down.
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