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rcadd1ct

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Everything posted by rcadd1ct

  1. For once I can say I worked on mine. Pulled the trans to swap out the manual motor plate for the correct auto plate.
  2. Sorry to hear this. Three pinched nerves in my neck so I sorta feel what you are going through. Hang in there. Even with all the opioid scare, hydrocodone seems to help me. I pinch nerves when I look down and bone to bone when I look up. Another tip for people is not to keep looking down at your phone. It is not helping you. Lift your phone up to see it.
  3. On my raptor I have a Vyncs gps locator that plugs into the diag port. $70/ year on amazon. No monitoring fees. I also have sky link and the ford gps tracking. I figure one might catch them if they get the ford and the obd one.
  4. I trimmed to the spot welds. If I cut anymore I will need to have it reshaped and rewelded. I was looking at a way to move the engine .25” forward. I might be able to go .125 up and .125 forward and get my clearance........until the engine settles. Hmfp Image of the oil pan I have
  5. I trimmed to the spot welds. If I cut anymore I will need to have it reshaped and rewelded. I was looking at a way to move the engine .25” forward. I might be able to go .125 up and .125 forward and get my clearance........until the engine settles. Hmfp
  6. All of us are fools here. Welcome to the party. Zooming in it looks like the tape is saying that the old is .5cm lower. Which is interesting to me as my aftermarket pan touches the front of the cross member. That .5cm might make it work instead of cutting the cross member more and rewelding. Thanks for the info. Which pan do you have? I got mine from Kevko Racing. Really nice pan and cleared the cross member without any issues. https://kevkoracing.com/collections/ford-cleveland/products/part-f607-ford-cleveland-front-sump-t-style-drag-pan It is a milodon
  7. All of us are fools here. Welcome to the party. Zooming in it looks like the tape is saying that the old is .5cm lower. Which is interesting to me as my aftermarket pan touches the front of the cross member. That .5cm might make it work instead of cutting the cross member more and rewelding. Thanks for the info.
  8. Are those not flipped around? I thought the engine mount boss vertical.
  9. Idle set to high? Any other issues or changes in behavior? Fluid level correct?
  10. A more current capable alternator will also normally produce more current at lower rpms. This helps when you have low end torque and don’t need to spin the engine high all the time.
  11. Might be cheaper to get a rear disk brake conversion kit from jegs or summit. If the mustang axle is ok, just get their and you get new parts.
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