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Everything posted by rcadd1ct

  1. Two things are happening when you mash on it. The power valve is opening and the accelerator pump is going. Might try backing off the accelerator pump some and see if that helps
  2. Might try Lonestar performance. They have a ton of nice cars go trough there
  3. I know for drag racing you have to have clip eliminators. How much of a deal is it for 5-600hp street? 351C C6 B&M 174 supercharger, also have a fogger system that was going to be staged injection when I bought it all 20 yrs ago.
  4. I wish I had the coin to just go hog wild. Thanks for all the info. On the 9" the axles are held on by flanges on the bearings. Are there "C" clips on the 8.8 or are they flange held, too?
  5. Well I bought a blue, so I guess grabber blue :)
  6. I have a Lincoln Versailles 9" in pieces. How much torque can an 8.8 handle? I see a lot of interesting kits for 8.8
  7. Wow! Cha ching! I stopped adding upgrades at $25k To rich for my blood. Wish there was a kit to add a current mustang IRS in. Might just need to start fab'ing. Hopefully they will be in wrecking yards for reasonable prices soon.
  8. Anyone used griggs racing torque arm? I had a pan hard bar from them on my 96 mustang cobra
  9. So pondering........ My car has gone through a rough life. 18 year old self went through a parking lot at way greater than parking lot speed and folded the car at the passenger window (Mach 1 fastback). I drove it until the engine died and parked it in the garage. About 10 yrs passed and I started working on it. Frame shop got everything straight, but said it might do it again with the engine I was planning. So we put Chris Alston sub frame connectors in it. These are the cut the pan and weld them in units. They did this, but in doing it they blocked the front leaf spring bolts. Sooooo I have original springs in the car. I plan on starting up again soon, selling my lighting to get funds. Now you know why....... So pondering. How are the new mustang IRS's connected to the unibody? Anyone heard of someone adapting to the 71-3 mustangs? A while back I was looking at three link and moving the lower links inboard to the subframe connectors as they are 2x4 tubing. As you can tell this will not be a concourse restoration, just me reliving high school hot rodding.....the car deserves it. Thoughts? Thanks, RCA
  10. I think the official name is radiator support. Might be wrong it was many years ago when I had to have it replaced. :(
  11. Bring this up again. My raptor just came in so I don't need two trucks. Anyone have any interest? Offers? Thanks for looking.
  12. And backups on site are not sufficient if your house burns. Backblaze will back up your PC offsite for $5/ month. If there is an issue they will send you a hard drive to restore from.
  13. In 1983 or so was looking at 66 fast backs I could afford, then it shifted to 69's........looked at one 72 at a price I could afford and that was it.......my high school car. Ran for a year, then the engine let go. Got it running right before graduation. Had a fight with my girlfriend. Both of us wanted to drive to graduation so both of us did....in our own cars. Looking back all seems so silly. But hell high school...... Still have the car. Basket case. Ordered some parts to hopefully start it. Good times.
  14. Well there are more people putting them back to stock. I personally like the idea of RRS3 type, but not much direct bolts on to our year cars. http://www.rrs-online.com/71-73-mustang-rear-suspension---diff-upgrade-kit.html I have never seen mention of it, but liked the design. Reminds me of the Griggs racing three link on a fox body.
  15. Search on the user autoedit on here and YouTube. He walked through the install. My only concern would be exhaust routing out the back as it will be tight with all the extra stuff over the axle.
  16. Yes I am talking the plate between the engine and the trans. The one the starter bolts through. They tightened the torque convert bolts through the starter hole. I guess after all that figured out the starter would not work. This was installed many years ago. Every time I crawl under the car I find stuff that is messed up. Bought a new house so one more try to get it moving under its own power to the new house. New house will have less garage space so getting it started at the storage would be preferred. Also need a yoke for the C6, now that I am reliving my shop frustrations.
  17. Work got in the way. Somebody got a good deal. :/ Oh well. Maybe next time.
  18. Ya. I will have to break out the bitching set of tools from when I rebuilt my wankel. Telescopic bore sizes and mitu mics
  19. Hello I have a 351c that had and FMX behind it. The shop installed a C6, but put a manual block plate in. Anyone have a block plate for a 351c and a C6 before I go eBay? PS. If you have the inspection plate, too that would be great. Thanks, RCA
  20. If I get it the plan is to blow it all apart and check clearances. And store it. I have a 4 bolt main block in the car, but I question some of the decisions I made twenty years ago. For $350 a spare in cosmoline in the corner might not be a bad idea. I would build it as a low compression stroker with trick flow heads and relocate my 174 supercharger and try for 10# of boost.
  21. If they still have it I figure it is worth the block if the crosshatch is still good. About 15 miles from me. I wonder how I can tell if it is stolen?
  22. Sorry if this has been covered. I have "New in town" under my name. Tried to look in user CP and search, but pardon me, how the flip do we get rid of it? :) Thanks, RCA
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