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Bentworker last won the day on July 25

Bentworker had the most liked content!

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About Bentworker

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    Mustang Guru

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    71' Grande project.


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  1. Are you sure you don’t have a locker? Other thing is are you running limited slip additive in your gear oil?
  2. Tilt columns are like unicorns! I think the steering box input shaft flat is at 12 O'clock when it is centered. Just to be clear I am not 100% positive on that...
  3. @kcmashThe wider slot on your steering column that engages with the 9/16” diameter pin on the rag joint should be at 12 O’clock (non tilt column)- and your steering wheel should be at 12 O’clock (match the wheel to the steering shaft) The input to the steering box is the monument you set everything else to so that you have equal left to right steering. You may have to adjust tie rods or move your pitman a spline or two (if it does not have the double splines that ensure it it clocked correctly on the sector shaft).
  4. Personally I take the weight off the front wheels and repeatedly turn it from lock to lock with the engine off. That will get most of the air out of the box. After that I do some more lock to lock turns with the engine idling. Be sure to check fluid often. If it turns into a foamy mess stop and wait for all the bubbles to rise- then try again. If that does not sort it out let us know.
  5. The only way you should spend $3,000 on a gear swap is if you are installing a limited slip, really fancy (expensive) carrier, chromoly axles, nice gears etc... A gear change alone should be 1/3rd that cost at the most. You could buy a brand new carrier with bearings, gears and limited slip from Strange for about $1600-1800 and put it in yourself.
  6. It seems to go in waves- but I think people may be more active on Facebook- which is horrible in my opinion. A big chunk of the value behind the forum is the ability to search. Facebook is a horrible platform for archiving.
  7. 71’ 351C car. I can’t figure out how the heck the factory engine harness lays. Looking at the 72 diagram it seems like it should follow the drivers side valve cover. The “gotcha” seems to be the oil pressure wire which has to go to the sender in the center rear of the valley. The short white wire with red trace is that wire. It almost appears like the harness crossed the rear of the engine and went forward on the passenger side valve cover. Any help is appreciated (but good help is really appreciated!)
  8. There is no harm in resealing your original pump. I’ve never done one of the Ford pumps, but it can’t be too bad. There is a good chance the rotor / cam and other goodies inside your original pump in great shape. As far as Dorman reman stuff goes, I would guess that not all the products that go out the door are perfect. Sometimes “rebuilt” products are not actually rebuilt very well. I’ll be surprised if anything is found faulty with your steering box.
  9. Another resource. http://www.stangerssite.com/HowItWorksFordPump.html Something I want to make clear is that to the best of my knowledge there is NO relief valve in the steering box itself. I believe your conclusion #2 to be impossible. The only pressure regulating part in the entire hydraulic circuit is inside the pump. If there is a max pressure problem- it is inside the pump. The alignment is probably contributing to the steering feel issue. I’m curious what your alignment numbers currently are.
  10. What did you decide to do with your pump?
  11. It works pretty good. The VFD takes the single phase AC - rectifies it to DC then inverts it back to 3 phase AC at whatever frequency you want. Many of the three phase input VFD's can operate off of single phase input but you have to de-rate them. IE use a 5 hp drive on a 3 hp motor. I have a 5hp three phase motor running off a VFD at home that is powered by a single phase 240V circuit. It is actually pretty trick for speed control on machine tools and other things like band saws. Not that expensive to do as long as long as the motor horsepower is low. For something like a lift where it
  12. Figured I should follow up what I said earlier. A lot of this will be in the manual for the frequency drive. When using a frequency drive you CAN NOT put any sort of switch In the circuit from the frequency drive Output to the motor. If you switch the output you risk destroying the frequency drive. If frequency drives were not finicky you could just wire the output of the drive to the lift contactor and be good to go. Unfortunately that IS NOT the case. Whatever permissive devices previously made the contactor coil energize (limit switch + raise lever?) now must be Isolated a
  13. Okay- we’re entering liability territory. In the photo you do not have a three phase converter. That is a frequency drive. Very cool - but it is going to take a bit more wiring as it needs to be directly wired to the motor. Can you post the make / model of the lift and the frequency drive? You are going to need instruction literature. Wire the motor directly to the output of the frequency drive (try to keep the run short and in Flex metallic conduit for shielding). The micro switch (Maybe not???) will be wired to the control input of the frequency drive, and most likely you w
  14. @92GTS-R The wiring down the tunnel has one less connector than the picture you posted. @ChrisH Sorry- I am keeping the mirror and switch.

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