Bentworker

Did you ever get a chance to drop them in the mail? The tracking info from 10 days ago still shows them as label created.

I have shorty headers and can drop the box out the bottom. For 1sostatic…

Try calling Transparts Warehouse in Redding CA.

Try sponging some phosphoric acid on it and keep it wet (with additional phosphoric acid) for 20 minutes or so and wipe it off. You can get it at Home Depot or Lowe’s in the concrete section. It won’t eat the metal, but I have seen it offer a different shade of grey where stampings were.

Measuring spindle nut torque with an inch pound wrench or going with the finger tight method? Personally I believe it is better to run bearings a little tight vs loose. Sometime during bearing replacement the races are not fully seated. Driving a bit can result in the races seating and the bearings loosening up. If it was my car I’d tighten the spindle nuts a bit (max 5 foot pounds) then go for a drive. If you don’t have one already an infrared thermometer is a great tool for things like this. Too little preload and the bearings can beat themselves up from play. Too much preload and they can also self destruct from overheating. If you have them tight enough that there is no play, and they don’t get too warm you should be good to go. If the infrared shows your hub to be about ambient temp plus 20 degrees F or so I’d call it good. A lot of other wheel bearing applications that are bigger like the Dana Spicer solid axles run tons of preload wirh no ill affect.

What bearing instructions are you following?

I still have not been contacted by anyone. Good time for a road trip!

The AED blocks I have don't have adjustable power valve restrictors. Once I get the carb closer I do have a Proform metering block which does have adjustable PVCR if I want to mess with them. Hopefully next weekend I'll get some time to play with the carburetor more, go for a drive, and repeat!

At the moment it is about 12.5:1 - 13:1 at idle. Low speed cruise (30-40mph) varies 14:1-16:1. Highway cruise (70mph) is pretty fat at around 12.5:1 again. WOT is about 11:1 - 12:1. My WOT was about 14:1 and I jumped a few main jet sizes, I plan on splitting the difference between where I was and where I am. Making small steps towards it running better. Honestly putting an AFR meter on it was an excellent thing to do. It is so much easier than basing decisions off of plug reads alone.

I'm making progress. I was able to get my idle leaned out a bit to where your eyes don't burn standing behind the car. I took it out for a rip with the AED blocks. I left them alone except for making a new set of idle fuel restrictors that were .031" Idle air bleeds are now .076". The idle mixture screws now function how one would expect them to. I was so convinced that the car was running fat at WOT that I jetted it down. After rolling around with an AFR meter on the car I realized that it was not the case. My vacuum is slightly better than I thought it would be, so I am going to go from a 4.5" power valve to a 5.5" power valve, along with bumping the jet sizes up. Once the car cools down I'll play "lets spill gasoline" and swap the jets. It is getting real close - runs great cruising at an economical AFR, idles at a reasonable AFR, and drivability is excellent. I matted the go pedal a few times and was ecstatic with how it behaves!

Someone has to be doing a West Coast road trip soon…

As far as gluing the skin of the hood / trunk back on. I played around with an old hood taking it apart to make a cowl hood out of it. The factory adhesive was cream colored and the consistency of a racket ball. It could be released with a heat gun. Figured if I ever had to glue one back together I would drill small holes (using a drill with a stop collar to avoid damaging the skin) through the bracing. Then get some sealer that was pretty thin and inject it through the holes.

Burns are no fun, you’ll be back to doing the things you enjoy before you know it.

Tossing in a new ginger carpet kit…

http://www.metaldipping.com/our-process.php